75coupe

Not the look to my rotors as yours though

Well thats the annoying part, i am using the same pads i had on with my previous rotors, same brand/model as well, finished off the old rotors at a track day, replaced the rotors, pads still had lots of life left and now i have brake squeal, i scrub the pads flat and fresh before installing on new rotors and all. So yeah hopefully the shims do the trick, i had no brake noise on this same combo previously...

here Warped Head

noise in brakes is from vibration, could those marks on the rotors be from the vibration? def looks like it... Im about to install some Project Mu brake shims to rid my brake squeal, using rda slotted rotors and QFM A1RM pads. Ive tried the anti squeal pastes that you put on the back of the pads, Ive even tried antisqueal spray which I wouldnt usually want to even use. Ive rebedded the pads after giving them a scrub on flat concrete and Ive lightly sanded the rotors to get rid of glazing just in case. Ive also used brake cleaner and thoroughly clean the calipers, pins, rotors and pads, so the shims are all I have left to try, I havnt tried the copper grease I must admit but I though the back of shim paste stuff would of been similar tbh...

take it off and measure it... why?

Ahb u do realise just because you use 10-12psi on another turbo other than stock turbo spec that you cant get away with using a std ecu, turbos flow different amounts, its not dictated by boost psi... Im all about the mid range and response, i chose the right turbo but i had no preconception about what boost i would end up using, i used the psi that gave the result. Ill do cams one day but i wouldnt put it at the top of my list infact i dont thing anyone does, so goahead be different see what happens, dont ask us you already know apparantly

running 10-12 psi on a highflow or any other upgrade from stock will not make use of the cams cams on low psi wont see their potential imo.... plus it will be an extra $1000 spent on cams and install that could generate more midrange with other parts

in saying that you dont actually need a new turbo then...

I dont think that boost PSI will get any or more midrange that the std turbo does at that same PSI... you need to read some more about modifications before making any more decisions...

Im using slotted RDA rotors and QFM A1RM pads and had bad squeal, I have done all the normal squeal remedies and re bedded the pads a few times after rubbing on cement and camfering etc..... I ordered some Project Mu shims for the fronts, I'll let you know how that goes... I drive me brakes pretty hard so it can be that they dont get enough heat, cause I can tell you they do...

yep seen that before with those bolts, I drilled it out when it was doing that by holding the bolt with vice grips so it doesnt turn and drill away... or drill at an angle from different directions so the bolt doesnt want to spin apparently nissan used a thread lock compound on those bolts...

drill out the bolts on your stock wing, they all do that when trying to remove them, its not hard to drill em out the std wing, then you have a CF blade... done.

haha you could definitely plough some fields with that mofo...

well it has to be going somewhere... and thats alot of oil for it to 'drink' in that distance... a car shouldnt lose any oil really if all is right... mine never does...

so isnt that 198lph at 100% injector duty?? meaning one 044 would be enough if the injectors were at 100% duty all the time, which they arnt...

Bosch websites states 040 flows only 102lph @6.5 bar & 044 flows 200lph @ 5 bar damn and hear I thought the 040 was a good upgrade for me... suck I'll have to replace it if I want to go E85 by the sounds of it...

what shims did you install, std nissan or Project Mu?

2 x 044s to run E85? sounds extreme to me, but maybe they are playing it extra safe?

Kudos motorsports may be a tad cheaper depending on postage from either places... I was thinking of using rubber or a sealing washer of sorts with some new wide head allen key bolts and do away with the std seals and bolts, way cheaper and look nicer. Im sure someone else did this, maybe psi parts project car, he listed some replacement bolt sizes in his build thread, cant remember if rocker cover bolt seals were one of the one he replaced or not.

Its common knowledge that when u install a fmic its a larger volume than the std one and yep it will take longer to pressurise, and cause a tad of lag, this has been discussed many times, i didnt intend to argue but i seriously cant see how that is a valid upgrade on the op car. All it will do for him going by your statement is stop heat soak if he was to do lots of spirited driving or on a skid pan, he wants a reliable daily, where is the value for money that the fmic will cost? Im using 76mm thick greddy fmic btw, so its not like im using a cheapy and reporting an issue that decent coolers dont get, its not restriction its simply more volume that creates a small amount of lag

Like these? Still not cheap cheap http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-rocker-cover-washer-rb20-rb26-50614

I didnt say or mean to imply it would be a 'lag monster' with a FMIC, but there will be a noticeable lag over the std cooler setup. From my guess on this individuals driving intentions he doesnt sound like he is wanting massive driving sprints or track times or anything of the sorts, sounds like he wants a well sorted daily with decent handling and the occasional squirt... so I guess you could recommend him wasting money on an FMIC that wont produce anymore power and even though there are probably many thousands of r33 with std cooler driving around without issue and the owners are fine with the heat soak that they arnt even aware of and then also the hassle of having to cut up the front bar... or he could spend that time and money doing something that will actually get him a noticeable gain in driving pleasure and reliability.

I e never worried about depressurisong the fuel line. I just put a rag or container under it to catch leftovers its never very much. There such a thing as a hose removing tool looks like a pair pliers but it pushes the hose of the fitting, ive never used it though. I use a pair of normal pliers give it a twist and pull, they can be hard to remove, if you have a hair dryer you could try warming the ruber i guess but ive never done that either...

nice I'll try them next time...

yeah I know super shiny compared to how the gold ones come, but shiny gold looks hawt...