75coupe

Think of a forum as a library... when in a library you may ask where a book is if you cant find, but luckily forums (and the internet for that matter) have a search function (well even libraries have a search system as well), forums are also split into sub categories to help in finding information too... if you cant find the info your after on the internet or this forum your simply doing it wrong... part of working on cars in general is being able to research and learn yourself see this gathering of information as your first steps in learning about your car. or you can hand over a credit card to a workshop and not have to learn or know a thing about your car, and not even know what was done to it... even if other users give you an answer it may just be their opinion and may even be the wrong advice for your particular needs... when all is said and done you need to get yourself a HKS2835 ProS running E85 with a bosch 040 fuel pump and 850cc injectors, lots of people will say the stock fuel reg is fine but its hard to fit speedflow hardware and stainless braided lines to it, so get an aeromotive or authentic sard fuel reg, tune and skid...

Can't believe after all the cost labour and effort youve put into this new engine that your driving it untuned like its a daily... I honestly thought you would of learnt from killing the last engine

replicas = crap

yeah I wouldnt put it there, its right above your exhaust manifold.... a hot there it could be... do a search as well, heaps of others have talked about relocating the afm before.... I dont know why you would bother in this instance though...

Craved coatings, he is on the forums and is known for his good and work and good prices, he does powder coating which is the best on wheels

the photos are of 5 stud rims, so they must be 5x114?? What diameter, what width, what offset or what car are they currently on, what brand tyres, how much tread left? Why dont you want them?

its called childish dreaming...

metal rear wide guards, interesting, never seen these... are you sure, cause I dont know of any company that makes body kit parts in metal needs pics to prove it...

get another front, the. Nisan ones are tougher

join a car club that deals with the car you want to restore, the types of enthusiasts your after are old school, they dont sit on the web, they have face to face meets at the local hall or rsl monthly... Boy are you in for a shock though... its not just the money, its the time and knowledge factor, because you have very little knowledge you'll find just trying to locate the simplest of thing or figure out where to start will take about 5 times longer that you assumed and you may still not even have what you were after and left with more questions... learn to cut and weld metal, and then realise that just being able to cut and weld metal wont help because you have not experience in heat control, or where best to cut panels and then also how to protect the panels from the almighty rust gremlin and you'll be learning along the way on a old muscle car shell that is already rare and quite expensive, not a good way to learn... your goal is way too high at the moment, start off with something simpler, its sounds like a great idea, I know I did it, but I had bit more knowledge and thought yeah I can do it... after a couple of years working on it when I could and transporting the whole lot to different locations to continue work on it over the years, I started doing (after I had gained alot more know how and real world experience) the maths for time and money involved, knowing that I couldnt never be able to do all things required to restore the car to the level I wanted, that it would cost another 40K easily just in parts alone... I realise then I had bitten off way too much for myself... Do you know what a car rotisserie is, if not, start reading Id say you have about 12months of reading and learning before you can even start to think about looking at cars to purchase. I havnt even mentioned tool... wow, yep start saving, and no supercheap will not be where you want to buy your tools from, you'll need decent tools that will last you years cause this will take you years... set aside about $2K to start with for tools.. that will get you started on the idea of a restoration but it wont end there.... do you know how to weld? do you know what a welder costs, no not an ebay one a real one... then the gas, then the wire, then learning to use it... I could ramble on about this all day to you... you have everest times 10 to climb I hope you realise.

Gosford City motors, easy guy there

WTF!!! no it cant be true, dont even jest that it could none other that BOV causing all of his problems, it has to be the ATMO BOV it just has too... and are you saying 80% of this thread was avoidable?

Yes I realise when its open the system is leaking, yes yes... Im not into the sound, its just the fact that I dont want a crap rubber hose going from side of the engine bay to the other (forward facing plenum) and I cant yet justify getting a nice metal pipe fab'ed up just yet... yet seriously though cars can run fine with an atmo, I have hardly any knock, Im not too worried about reversion as its only on low pressures this happens with mine, otherwise its a straight release no tut sound. Just everytime someone says atmo you immediately jump down their neck about it, its definitely your 'pet hate', get over it... you have good knowledge, why not help out the OP and then 'IF' everything points to the problem being the atmo sure suggest they remove it... verbally abusing people for it aint the way too go...

yep I agree ^^^ but other tuners have said you can tune around it if the bov is decent (doesnt leak when its not suppose too) and consistent.

do you really need the sard fuel reg? do you have a std one as a tester? is it an authentic sard?

for the 10,000th time Mafia I run a atmo bov and have no problems and run 300rwkw... so go eat dick... Help the OP diagnose the problem if your so good, maybe, just maybe its something other than one of your pet hates....

he doesnt want to cum come 1st???

use the stock rail... if the stock rail dont fit your doing something wrong....

universal rails are just that 'universal' not made for any specific car or seat... I use bride rails, rpm side plates and spsarco full bucket seat, so I cant guide you step by step on your goal... but I can say universal rails can be kinda shit and flimsy, get decent ones or get bride or custom one made up... Bride rails are made for specific car models and are a bolt in thing... but you would still need to attach the ssv seat to the rail somehow...

in a nut shell yes, anything can be done... The universal rail would need to be mounted to your 33 rail feet, and then the seat fitted somehow to your universal rail... why do you want to do this??? then you'll need to replace the seats from your ute?

why couldnt you use the std rb25 fuel rail???

Yep im a CF collector too... Ive been thinking about the GTR front conversion but Im not a fan of the series 1 headlights... If I could work out a way to make the GTR bonnet fir the series 2 headlights I would be doin it too... need pics of your conversion... and again when you get the CF lip on...

I'd be keen to see the results... Is this on a series 1 or 2? Using series 1 or 2 headlights? Sorry I cant answer your actual question though.

is this to go on an r33 gtst???

copied from google search result, this will answer one of your questions.... If you are running a traditional reclining seat in your vehicle and using a 5 or 6 point harness by running the sub belts over the front of the seat, you are compromising the effectiveness of the sub belt. When you do this, you are putting the camlock mechanism at an angle it was not designed for and therefore reducing the sub-belts ability to prevent you from submarining under the lap belts. What you need is a seat with a 5th harness slot in the base of the seat. Corbeau has the option to add a "5th slot", otherwise known as a harness sub-belt hole, to any of their reclining seats. This 5th slot is installed in the base of the seat (see photo below) where you can run your submarine strap on a 5 or 6-point harness belt and eliminates having to run the submarine strap over the front of the seat cushion.