75coupe

hell even modifying my skyline works a tad more expensive than I originally plan for each time...lol.. Im very fussy about cost and always hangout for good deals, and most times get new parts for alot less than shelf price, but it takes time... whatever cost you come too, add another 50% of that on top... a KE corolla would be a cheaper exercise for sure but things still cost and there are always hidden costs and then there are the mistakes or the under budgeting to worry about... its not impossible, but its not easy... and cost heaps and takes time... more than what you imagine

Yep Ive been there done that.... Had a cliassic that needed a restore, thought yep I can learn do some courses work up to doing it myself, well after starting it and working out it would cost in excess of $25K and thats doing all the labour myself and then realising that to do the work on it and learn new skills at tafe I simply didnt have enough time in the day if I wanted to fund life and the project. I did end up doing a heaps of metal work and welding courses. I did gather lots of books and knowledge on prepping and painting. And also figured out the cost is huge not just in time but money. then I noticed that most people who have done restores are either panelbeaters or mechanics, or have good friends that are. or they are very well funded or drug dealers... the ones that dont fit in that category are few and far between and in all these cases they usually have friends or connections that can lend a hand or knowledge... I dont mean to be negative, but its is pretty realistic.

wow yeah $400 for seconhand set install thats harshly overpriced... you could of spent $530 for new splitfires and 10mins to install... oh well live and learn...

list prices on everything before admins close and lock your thread...

supercheap or repco.... lol.... search the forums been said before... here are the comments I found from other threads AHA! Found a full new set for $225Aus from eBay in the states. Problem solved. Just to let the team know that VG30 turbo and NA use the same part! (eg z32 300zx). Hi there mate in the event that anyone wants to buy lifters for there rb25det, the link has them for 408 dollars for a set of 24 FYI the lifters are the same as a 300zx twin turbo Z32 model. 1990-1996. Hope this helps anyone thats in my situation. the part number is LIFD27 by Topline http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ I just bought a set of new ones from the states, i paid ~AU$12 each and $50 postage. Nissan wanted $140 each for them which is a joke. these are the guys that i bought them from, their part number for them is "LIF 630" http://www.rockauto....log/catalog.php there are also some cleaning lifter threads in the forums too... here ones cleaning tip... Just replace your engine oil with a diesel engine oil and run it (softly) for a few km's.. Diesel engine oil contains a detergent that will clean out the sludge that builds up in the lifters. Just flush it through well after. Seriously doesnt anyone search anymore...

4K wont cover a decent spray job, especially not a colour change... you may find cheaper but it normally isnt a decent job.... 4K wont cover spray, computer, rubbers, choose one.... if you get a computer, why, do you have other mods that need it to be supported? if you get spray save up more first... if you get rubbers thats atleast $1500 Id be guessing... your budget is too small for what you want...

you shouldnt be able to tell that new metal has been welded or dents have been filled in once the final spray has been done, otherwise what would be the point right... oh look a nice new spray job finished but I can still see where new metal has been welded in???? that dont make sense... please dont use fibreglass to repair rust spots or dents... please always cut major rust out but if you need to ask these questions, you either havnt research enough on rust repair and prepping for painting or you just shouldnt consider doing any of it yourself and in that case dont attempt a restoration if your wanting a decent result... asking for tips is a good thing, but this is like body repair 101 stuff and restoration of a car as bad as the one your describing sounds isnt an easy task without good knowledge or experience...

or sell it and buy something that has a few mods already done and save heaps....

wow.... what made you think this is the right section of the forums for this thread.... Ive seen them turn up in the wrong thread before but this is obtuse interested to see how/where your build goes though

Thats two people now that are interested Im thinking about producing a batch of these, now to find some time... I'll update this thread...

what?? rims?? umm dont know... but the things in the background are trees ones in the foreground are pebbles...

oh yeah Im doing as many in the entire engine bay as I can see or afford which ever comes first...

damn you beat me to it, I've been counting and measuring bolts too... but Im also replacing the M5x.8mm bolts as well... the only other thing that changes is what style of washer, cup or countersunk configuration you decide for each of the positions the bolts is in... like the front fender top bolts Im using cup washers and socket cap hex bolts in black alloy, cas bolts im using socket cap and plain washers in black. other bolts will be countersunk washers and hex bolts style.... M5 M8 M6 now just to count them and group them in styles.... oh yeah and order...

yep AEM sounds like the go... Ive been waiting for a thread like this to come up to make up mind on which one to get...

for ECU recommendations Im actually leaning towards a vipec or an ecu that can take ethanol sensor feedback for fuel map trimming so you can have the 'ANY FUEL' choice in the future... I have a PowerFC and its fine, but I wish I could use the ethanol sensor and just use whatever fuel is available... that is E85 or 98... keep doing some reading OP, sounds like you have lots to learn about upgrades and costs....

what, could it be that others think your temporary setup will be laggy as well... seriously a $250 std turbo will be nicer to drive on this temporary setup rather than the 35r... save the new turbo for the new bottom end and it will be a nicer install, feel nicer and the car will still have its nice response in the meantime... if you think 4800rpm is not lagged then, continue on your own way...

I think we noticed there was a floor to your setup and could maybe make you aware of your downfall before it cost you time and money... As long as your happy with your choices at the end of the day... Some of us just make different choices with our own reasoning I guess...

killer response comes with a small turbo, said nothing about having legs.... forged 34 or std 34 wont make any difference to how a turbo spools up. stock turbos last ages if you service your car well.... do a search some people have them on cars over 200,000Ks old but you dont have anti-lag or transbraked auto do you, you have a laggy turbo on a small breathing setup... yes yes for the time being... I understand now that its a temporary setup... I just dont agree with your thinking... Did you end up getting your questions answered???

Oh I read the start but I still dont understand... if I put my turbo on a 2530 (forged 34 makes zero difference?) it would be killer response and choked up top, most people would say response and area under the curve is where its at.... But you cant just compare turbos when talking down the straight... I reckon you'll be waiting for boost to kick in before I do and by that time the race is over.... why dont you just wait for the new engine and then put the 3582 setup together...? Id rather 190rwkw with std response over 3582 lagggggg.... is this a street car or track only car...???

Im starting to not understand... why did you get a 3582 if your only going to run low boost, it wont be operating at its best efficiency.... why not just get a smaller turbo and boost it to its feel good zone... you'll have better response... or is this just a temporary thing? if its temporary I dont understand this either, the pain of tuning, reconfiguring setup, and adjusting things to suit is something I think I most would prefer to do once if at all possible... or you can put the 3582 on and my smaller turbo (2835) will complete three quarter miles while your waiting for boost to kick in... lol...

1 bolt (M8 socket cap, alloy) on US site is $1.30US, same bolt on Aust site $1.84AUD thats from the pro bolt sites... thats more than just currency exchange effecting that price... I wonder if its more worthwhile buying from the US in that case...

This place has dome, flanged, socket, countersunk all with hex heads and in a variety of colours, but of course they are all alloy, and they have some really trick alloy bolts too... so they should be fine for panels low weight/heat applications... http://www.pro-bolt.com/ I dont think a group buy would help us much either as their pack price aint that much different to their singular pricing... Id love to put a list together of all bolt sizes, lengths, head size and counts so I can order one whole batch that will replace most engine bay bolts... that sounds like alot of effort.... and can I actually make time to step foot in the garage at all...

surely something wrong there, or are you talking single cam rb30s???

sounds like you'll need a larger cat to get best results.. infact I would of thought 3.5"inch exhaust as well... and dont use ebay lines on your turbo... they're crap...

check out the rb30 hybrid dyno thread.... see what others are doing