75coupe

wow you really have an issue with them huh.... I really dont care if my car sneezes or not I let the tuner advise me on what their experience thought was best.... they chose the atmo bov even though I had provision for the plumb back and also supplied them a std plumb back bov... Im usually going to fast to see if women are naked or not, let alone worry about their being any bubbles... luckily I dont carry any shit around with me either hence not having any cop issues... but I am interested in keeping my expensive turbo safe, so that is the point of view Im interested in.... thanks for the info everyone, back to topic...

thanks for that, I'll get sick of the sound pretty soon anyways and want to shut it up, thats what happened last time anyway.... uh oh, did I inadvertedly start a BOV war.... lol

yeah I understand its not a massive tuning change, and I have the in my metal intake a large nipple to take the plumb back from the BOV which was blocked off to use the atmo bov instead, but I have a few other things I want to look into in the tune as well... I have an excessive knock issue. is it really that bad for the turbo to suffer reversion? thanks for your advice it is appreciated, I put everything together and then asked for them to check and advise and all of it, nope everything is fine... oh good I thought... maybe I should get another tuner to look at it and see what they say or by the seems of it just an experienced forum member might be able to help... oh and sorry for kinda hijacking your thread OP...

Im running RB26 cam covers hence no PCV valve, running lines from both cam covers for atmo catch can So it sounds like I need to start again with another tuner... tuners have cost me almost as much as the parts the themselves and Im still not finished... I kinda would of expected the tuner to pull me up on these things, but nope apparently everything was fine from their perspective...

thanks for the info, but I actually gave to a reputable tuner a std bov with flange and also the atmo HKS bov and said here you go you choose whatever you think is best, they tuned it they picked which bov to use and they set it up... I told them to do it it right, not cheap or easy, to do it right, as I wanted a reliable usuable setup, and that it hopefully see more track work in the future... Im not a tuner, I drive the car and it works now if what your saying is that Im going to shorten the life of my turbo then Im disappointed in the tuner as I thought they were a good workshop and had alot of experience... all I know is the car runs and makes power, would like better response of course but that could be because many variables... So is it worth me going to the same tuner and saying what the hell, or do I goto another tuner and start again with the tuning process... I honestly believed the tuner who did the work would of really knew what they were doing and thus would of made the best choices, I know they certainly wernt cheap...

so it improves spark.... well if you have good strong spark to begin with what more can it do really.... how about you buy it and after you trial it we'll all say 'hahahaha ebay!!! your joking right!!!!'

well mines more of a pshttt tat tat tat tat thats just the way it went, it didnt sound like that at all on my previous setup...

atmo or plumb back BOV does it really matter, its about what works isnt it.... I had a HKS atmo on hand from a car I previously bought, used it on the new setup since I didnt want to have to run more plumbing from the FF plenum install side and what do you know it works, no idle issues, no stalling... No I dont live in Vic, but really my 33 is in no way a sleeper and you know what Ive never had a defect and never been looked over even after being RBTs, speeding etc, 4 years and still going... so I dont see the reason for the big debate every time someone mentions BOV... get over it...

is this for rb20, 25 or 26?

what colour car are these bits off?

dont use the ebay oil & water lines, get proper ones with speedflow fittings made... use a reputable tuner...!!!!!! dont cut cost it will only end up costing you more in the end

I use bride rails on my sparco pro 2000, nice

oh the suspense is killing me...

so does this mean that any car with an aftermarket exhaust needs a blue slip??? and I thought you were allowed to have a FMIC?

I have a HKS GT2835 Pros for sale $1500 in the for sale section, exhaust flange & HKS wastegate and a range of new studs included... I just installed the same turbo and got 290rwkw on std rb25... yeah its responsive, now I need a good diff to get the power down better

fit, approve, lets go, my front bar looks sad with the foglight covers missing!!!

or just fill weld the current bolt holes and drill and tap new ones to fit the std throttle body, thats what I did cause I didnt want the hassles of having a larger different throttle body that Ive read so much about...

Im running a front facing plenum, (RIPS plenum) and use a silicon reducer from the std throttle body to FMIC piping, I dont see a need ot use a different throttle body tbh... I dont see any problems with using a reducer though...

Oh I resent that totally, ... Im so not a stock driver.... lol

why not just go for a decent shock revalved to suit a decent spring, rather than go for the you beaut cheapo coilovers that have a million and one adjustability settings which no one except a proper suspension workshop with corner weighting facilities and good experience can get right...

bump

my stock clutch is still handling 289rwkw, go figure... new gearbox and clutch sitting there ready for install though...

My money is the car will end up crashed soon enough... hopefully the OP will be ok....

wow so young and ignorant... and surrounded by experience

too much power, not enough experience, and poor suspension/tyres yeah you will need more than some you beaut coilovers that come in orange to actually make the suspension better.... your wrong, we're right...