75coupe

So I just got my car back from the tuners and Im not really disappointed with the results but am wondering if the dyno printout shows any issues. 253.2rwkw HKS2835 ProS sard 550cc front facing plenum powerFC with boost control kit splitfire coilpacks arc air intake stock cams adjustable exhaust cam pulley 98ULP its disappointing that the dyno print doesnt show rpm so I find it harder to read than normal, but more experienced people may be able to see something from looking at this printout... Does boost control look right? Do I need the rpm indicator for more info of how the setup is performing? Is power output lower than expected? Any suggestions? I did expect more peak power tbh, but Im more interested in midrange.

haha that was going to be my guess...

woah thats cool sparco pro 2000 are legal? Ive got one, but never knew it was legal... now to get the rail engineer certified, its a bride rail though with 7mm L shaped alloy side brackets... will that pass you think???

is it fibreglass or plastic just out of interest? I could take a guess at what it is but it would only be guess..

oh and another question, would I still require a separate display or can the PFC commander display the AFR somehow? or alternatievly would I need to run a PDA or laptop with freeware PFC interface software to see live AFRs....?

oh cool some good reasoning for me to spend more money, just what I needed, lol... thnx

So does that mean that we can actually plug the wide band into the powerFC for more accurate readings? and it will replace the factory O2 sensor?

does this fit well and align completely flush with the other panels...? where is pick up from?

I run my cannister under the front guard on the drivers side

Well Id love to test it for you but I dont if my 2835proS is what you want as a test setup... I could also compare it to the RIPS plenum for you... its currently at the tuners, I should have it back really soon...

So nismoid is saying that its a cost factor vs performance gains issue for him. but all the other people who are happy to spend larger amounts of money on their car are completely sane by doing so... btw I picked up a RIPS RB25 intake plenum for $400 secondhand, I cleaned it up and I'll get it powdercoated next, so I reckon that was worth it, I installed myself so no labour charge, I did all the install work on my new turbo, injectors & plenum setup, others can do the same if they really wanted to if you actually research, have patience and are willing to learn... I find all my parts for cheaper than shelf price, example brand new HKSGT2835 ProS with all new studs and gaskets $1600 delivered... if you search and wait you will find...

isnt it an anodised colour?

could the afm being over the exhaust manifold area be a problem....

you started the thread saying front facing plenum was better for reponse and now we hear your putting a 3582 on it anyways, not exactly a responsive turbo selection... the hypertune plenum isnt that much more than a greddy or plasmaman item, so how could that be more than your willing to spend if your still after a quality item...? custom intercooler, not cheap haltech platinum sport ecu, not cheap and easily cheaper options that can do the job yet hypertune plenum is more than your looking to spend, I dont get it, surely a budget constraint didnt play a part in your selections so far? Are you doing the installs yourself, otherwise again, not cheap, add on another $2K there at least... and not a mention of exhaust yet...

I dont think the intake plenum is a thing you really want to skimp out on... spend the money on a good one straight up, it will just be a hassle or tuning issue otherwise...

I have a RIPS plenum and have been told the plenum chamber near cylinder 6 is rather small as it tapers quite a bit, best plenum from what Ive been told by a few people now is the hypertune one...

Im in....

have you tried giving the edge of the pad a chamfer, Ive always just given my pads a rub some flat concrete and chamfered the edges sightly... Ive never had a squeal I couldnt get rid of, it may take me a couple of times but eventually something I do on install or re-install does the trick... Im no expert though, hence why Im a bit hit and miss...

yeah ok, it sounds like youve done your best to install them right... Ive tried a fair few pads over the years and from that experience and from reading threads online there doesn't seem to be a consistent brand that will squeal, there has to be another factor, otherwise you can imagine how many cars would be experiencing the same problem... next move, brake specialist and give them the mission to rid your setup of the squeal, if they succeed ask them for the secret, if they dont, surely they will have a good explanation other than change pads or rotors... I'd be interested to see what a decent brake workshop would say...

I thought brake squeal is caused by high frequency vibration. so it shouldnt matter what pads or discs you use, its about how you install them, hence why all combinations your using squeal, take the pads out clean the backs, roughen up the pad itself clean the caliper and disc area of brake dust, use some goo on the back of the pads let it set and install them again... the goo on the back of the pad I believe is supposed to act as a cushion for any vibration, squealing brakes usually happens under light braking. this is what I do for all the squealing brakes that I have come across, and it usually works... please someone correct me if Im wrong... Im fairly sure sydneykid also wrote a thread on squealing brakes and all the reasons and solutions

in fact I have all the parts std turbo back exahaust std airbox no snorkel though std intercooler just waiting to be picked up... pm sent

I even have the stock intercooler and pipeing as well actually...

I have a stock airbox and filter sitting in my garage just waiting for someone to buy it...

that looks great, to ceramic coat or not hard choice.... nah coat it better performance, better temp control win-win

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