75coupe

how much work did it take to get the front bar to fit nicely?

There was white sticky stuff on mine and I used the oven to soften it up and then slowly worked the red lenses off...

a quick stint in the oven works... Ive taken them off doing this...

pics of all rims including damaged one please & location

after not using my air con over winter I get a whistle but it goes away after running it on high for 1/2hour...

I got a secondhand HKS typeS oil cooler off a GTR, came with all the bits including the sandwich plate with internal thermostat. As soon as I installed it water temp would rarely go over 75 degrees and temp was fairly much stable at 70, so cool I thought its doing a good job at cooling the oil before install it water temp would usually sit at 77-85, (I dont have a oil temp gauge). But about 5 days later the water temp was consistently back to its normal temperatures and at a track day the water temp was up to 94... which is pretty much the same as before oil cooler install. I'm thinking either there is something blocking the oil flow through the core or the thermostat isn't opening properly. Any ideas on how I can troubleshoot this to define where the problem lies?

I have a HKS super drager 3.5" I want to lift the centre baffle/muffler (whichever it is) at least a half inch so it doesn't scrap as easily on speed humps, was considering rewelding (MIG) the middle mount alittle shorter, but its probably stainless, I know the rear is, but what about the pipe, I've never looked closely. Stainless you reckon? of course it would be yeah... I've used the MIG on alloy, that kinda sucks to begin with, is stainless just as annoying at first? Now I have gas for mild steel but not having done stainless on MIG I'll probably go for a flux core stainless wire, I know shielded wire looks and goes on heaps better, but I don't want to have to new gas just for one job... Any thoughts?

I've done three welding coures at TAFE, found the experience to be great and you meet people who may be into cars and doing stuff as well that you can compare learner notes with... did night courses they go for a fair few weeks so you get a chance to try at home and get tips as your learning over at the course... I want to go back and do TIG next...

I'm guessing that gtr rims with 265s all round wont fit...

depends if you like chrome nuts or not... all the usuals are chrome plated... I have a full set minus one spare which are a nice shop bought black set, $120 from some common aussie brand wheel brand (can't remember name three letters???) and also got a cheaper aluminium set from Ministry of Bass for like $60 except the black is not as hardy... as long as you always use proper torque when tightening them they are fine, over tighten alloy nuts and they will break... lesson: don't let average tyre shops play with your nuts...

My slotted RDAs gave out on the track day, I gave them a floggin yes but I was told but others there that they won't last as long as the DBAs, different metals and manufacturing process apparantly...I've heard some say "they're from the same factory, so DBAs are just overpriced" and others just laugh when I mention that line so I dunno. I've been through two sets of RDA front slotted rotors, next time it will be the DBA I don't see other track driven cars running RDA and that tells me there is either a reason or most track guys believe in buying brand name, considering some of the cars I've see at track days (low budget trailer hauled cars) I reckon it might be because of advice from others, make from that what you want... My RDAs were shuddering by the end of a track day they were in their later life and I knew that they would maybe suck by the end of it but I didn't want to thrash the new set I had in the garage. If someone can support the reasoning to buy DBA please shout it out...

you might need a custom vinyl designed and produced.

I have a sparco pro 2000, I don't find threading the belt through the holes like above is really worth the hassle, the belt holes at the sides arn't exactly easy to get to once I'm in. I want to get a harness bar for above the back seat. That way I can use either belt and it doesn't make the rear seat unusable.

I think that front bar is Trust, not trial...

I have a full bucket seat and use, when not on track, a normal seat belt and it seems fine, but its not exactly my daily car... I would suggest getting a seat belt pad thingy for the lower belt so it doesn't rub against the seat and cause premature wear... never been hassled by cops either...

did someone say sticker.... bugger cause I do vinyls... how about 2dayFM is my station, you can win prises then... maybe choose another station though I'm not up on radio prize thingys... But seriously you need a design before you can choose a colour, what colour rims, how dark is the window tint, what colour interior, these all play a part in choosing a 'vinyl' design and colour so that it all works as a whole not just an after thought sticker that just don't work... think about the whole colour theme or feel of your car not just a one off sticker...

I would love to do the 2 tone paint on mine... I haven't had any troubles having tinted tailights..

Thats an awesome win..! ooh vents above coil pack area... hmmm any block plates for rainy days included? I would highly recommend getting some made up, I am...

Well steering is no heavier... But I am experiencing understeer which is strange cause I haven't had an understeer issue before. Maybe the crappy sumitomos arn't as good as the crappy nangkangs... Damn I want semis... It may be the alignment is out slightly after a heavy track day though. I can't imagine hitting ripple strips around Oran park would do it any good, though the instructor thought it was necessary, so I kept taking the line he showed me. The 9" inch rims only just fit I'm thinking I will get some 2mm (if possible) spacers, with an alignment check and a fresh balance on the fronts and see how it goes. Anyone have anything else? I can't see how having wider tyres would be a bad thing? Is overkill even possible in terms of front end traction? Come on, heaps of people reading but not many have any thoughts... is it really that much different to having 255 tyres all round on a gtr...?

I was able to get a secondhand HKS s spec with braided lines and alloy air ducting, mounting gear & thermostat for $350, Was all in good condition, installed front left guard, saw an immediate difference in temps... great line connections, sealed perfectly.

I am running a staggered 17x8 & 17x9, but I do have another 2 17x9s in the same style, same colour at 38 offset with 255s on them (they were rears). I've put them on the front with the theory of more rubber on the front can't be bad, yep they practically clear everything except a small rub when on full, full lock. My questions are: Would there be any negatives too running 255s all round on a GTST. Will that upset the balance of grip or as I'm thinking can you never have enough rubber on the front. Will I need to get an alignment setup again if I run the 9" with 255s on front (I'm about to install hicas lock bar anyway)? I have bilstein struts, low king springs 355-345mm from centres to guards, with whiteline adjustable sways and whiteline offset upper front and rear bushes -1degree camber on front. When running the 225s on front I was getting uneven wear as you would expect from camber setting. Will the wear be more noticeable when using 255s on front? With +38 offset on 9" on fronts would I be better off using a 3mm spacer and lipping the guards to avoid the slight rub on full lock? I don't like the thought of using spacers usually. BTW the +38, 17x9" rims on front look like the perfect size as it lines up perfectly with guard edge though I haven't done any over the top hard cornering as yet...

yep type t looks good, group buy price? pics of rear bar...?

Yeah that starlet was damn quick, as you would expect from basically a full on race car setup... It was a good day, my first track event ever and I was getting 55.8 (handtimed) on end of their life nangkangs, they were mushy by the end of each run... Damn I flogged them...

I reckon another red light on the back would be fine as far cops as concerned... I plan on doing the same except having it always lit up, in red as well....

Like these, as in canards or are you talking about full underside diffusers (undertray) front and rear