SLIMVLT

i sent u a pm please reply

i sent u a pm

does the car feal faster i bet it probably does. you have got a highstall. that will cause a drop in power but you will still have a freaking quick car. ive seen plenty of drag racing boys who run 10's disapointed cos there highstalled car doesnt make huge power at the wheels. this doesnt mean squat to the times the thing runs. (these cars are high hp cars too) also u said that u where geting a boost spike to 27 psi and now its stedy at 24 that would be helping the power output.

when your runing lots of methinol then u dont need 1. anything that reduces inlet temps is a good thing.

cappa do a supercharger kit for them, but there is no way in the world it would fit in a sedan turboing them in the patrol wouild be a great option but costly.... we curently service some basicly moded 1ns (extractors, zorst,chiptorque pigyback, aircleaner) and they go great compaired to a std 1.... turboing 1 would be great... the guy at the 4wd joint next to work has a race patrol its fited with a 4.2 petrol with a turbo and its suposed to fly... ill try to get a power reading or a dyno sheat. the extra capasity would be great.

a basic compresion check will tell u what happened

same here (rb25de in r31) im geting the bits together to turbo it atm, just gunna be using a std rb25det turbo. but its also going to have a 3L botom end so i dont know if it counts. you shuld take detailed pics and post them up. also tell me how u go with your cooler cos custom bits cost mega $$$$ and if u use std (aftermarket) bits it will be beter

that is a good price, i work at a nissan dealer and my price way 98 or something. i nearly fell over.

mabys the cam timing is out alowing some of the compresion to blead out. this can be a problem

your lucky it didnt have nice neat holes oiut the side of the block sorry to here lad. all the ppl saying check your clearences ect if there not rite from the initial build it wouldnt have lasted this long and would have shat along time ago the oil presure blead that he spoke of would have taken the top layer of bi-metal off and things can only get werse from there in a high power situation. the poor litle berings would be geting a fair bit of force put on them each power stroke taking more metal off each time. look on the brite side (if there is 1) you can fix any of the things u have wanted to change.

i had 1 on a rb30et full boost by 4000 or so. made 253 rwkw with the injectors maxed on 17 psi. the guy i sold my motor to using biger injector's has pushed it to 330 rwkw not to bad. good elcheepo turbo. i just used the car for a burnout rig and the motor was just aq convert with copper head gasket cam head work and your normal vl mods. still would pull 3rd gear nuts not a prob im mising having a semi quick car. hate driving a r31 rb25de with no power. shuld hurry up and bold my rb25/30 together and slap it back in the vl

who cares if uget not much gain. just think how horny it will sound when its lumping away like a stinking hot 202.lol

mate go to the rb30 dohc thread ask there. BUT READ THROUGH THE THREAD FIRST. this question has been asked alot of times. DO A SEARCH

in most racing circles nitrous will be aded to the forced induction side of things. its giving the air a more dense charge that usulay only having a supercharger or turbo will, provide so imo its a force induction thing. also why dont u just bolt the hole shebang onto a 3L block use your rb25 psitons get about 11 -1 comp by doing this make even more power

if done corectly it may work but the problem is that the heat soak u get when just siting there just makes your inlet pipe hot so it just make s the cai useless. bu t u mite find a midrange increase on a dyno but prob wont be enuff to feal it. on the gen3 cars u do get a noticable gain bu puting on cai's, having fited then dynoes a couple ive noticed about 5-10 rwkw gains but yea not much considering the cost. also out ouf interst on 1 of the customer cars we tryed a k@N pod kit, and the car lost power/torque down low but gained 5 kw up high over the over the ss inductions 1. but it pulled great up high in the revs. it fealt shit to drive and just wasnt as grunty down low. this was on a rebuilt motor with extractors, upgraded maf, maf pipe,great exhaust,biger tb,cleaned up heads,valvesprings,ect. nothing major. but a great test car.

then u have to get a rb25 head cos the rb20 1 wont be compatable.

we will have to wait and c wont we

mate i have done this before and most ppl dont do it well and set there sxpectations to high. ive used decomp plates/copper head gaskets ect in rb30 engines for years with great sucsess but you always get reports of ppl who get it wrong. ive used a dead stock n/a rb30 with a 2mm copper gasket (no orings) cramed alot of boost in to it (ran 28 at hethcote) made 253 rwkw on 18 psi. it all comes down to the tune and what most ppl do is use the stock parts that dont like it real well (ecu) so if they scimp or dont get a pigy back then pumping abit of boost in will result in a meltdown and a nother statistic to the list. so yea i beleive i know what im tlking about.

why do ppl not do a search about a simple catch can instilation's ive hurd so many ppl describe the above symptems. it happens so often its not funny. i thought with all the wealth of information that is avalible then this stuff wouldnt happen

1 engine builder i know didnt like the fit of the sr20 bolts (wasnt my motor) even though they would have been rite when done up, they just where flopy in the hole where the std 1ns where a tight fit. the guy ended up just geting std bolts from nissan for like 50 all up

id say forged internals arnt just braging godies just a reliability thing. at least u know its safe.

owch vcat any 1 take him to vcat to get the cash then get some 1 else to fix it. ive seen plenty of this stuff recantly (im a tech/mechanic at a nissan/kia dealer) and ppl dont seam to think its worth changing timing belts, had about 7 instances in about 3 months all with major valve snapage and alot of busted cams,pistons heads ect, and usulay they break at highway speeds. ive also seen various aprentaces stuff up valve timing with predictable results. the best 1 was his own car (xf with ef motor, twin gt3070 ect) the work shop manual didnt have a crutial step in it for installing the timing gear (so he says anyway) resulting in the cam been about 40 degrees out. it wouldnt turn over so he put a big snap on bar on it. it would turn but not verry good. so he put it in his car cranked it over and not much happened. i gave his wolf 3d some tweaking thinking he hadnt set it corectly (it sounded suss at this stage. and when it cranked over and fired (well splutered) there where flames about 4 foot high out of the intake and the exhaust. it smashed every inlet valve and bent/broke every second exhaust valve. broke every piston and masacred the head. prity funny after the event not at the time http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g81/slimvlt/Picture303.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g81/slimvlt/Picture305.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g81/slimvlt/Picture310.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g81/slimvlt/Picture315.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g81/slimvlt/Picture294.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g81/slimvlt/Picture317.jpg pics of the mess

usulay when u get cams like tommie they are from what ive hurd at there best when in the standard position, u would need to get it on a dyno and try it, i know u have a dyno so this shuld be no major issue

last time i checked i thought a stagea is quicker than a match box car. lol 4 wdrive and the same mods as daboses pretend car im sure the stager would have it all the way. and yea prob not crash

i had a e-bay t70 manifold and gate on a rb30 made 253 rwkw not a problem with mine. i expected it to brake but it didnt, no turbo preservation went on either. just shut it down hot and walk away.