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steeldawg_69

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Everything posted by steeldawg_69

  1. Is exporting an option?
  2. Solved........I'm posting my findings as it relates to my original problem which was the cas was fully anticlockwise and my timing was 10-13 deg btdc. It turns out that the ignitor pack's BODY has to be grounded. This is especially for guys who do swaps. By chance I grounded mine and when I started the car and checked the timing it read like 35 deg btdc, I was able to rotate the cas clockwise and set the timing to 20 deg btdc. Hope this helps someone.
  3. No oil was there, if you notice in the picture where the cam oil seal would be there is oil on the intake side but none on the exhaust.
  4. That is what I noticed when I removed cams
  5. It turns out that it wasn't the belts, the noise I was able to trace to around the exhaust side of the head. I took the cams out and discovered that the oil orifice under the E1 cam cap was clogged, so I cleaned and unclogged the same, put everything back together and I have no more noise. My original timing issue remains though but I'll seek help elsewhere. Thanks to you and everyone else who took the time out to reply and give suggestions, they were all appreciated. I'll post the picture of what I saw when I removed the cams.
  6. http://sendvid.com/0k24nnpl
  7. I was trying to upload the video clip, i keep getting error msg.
  8. Well it's been 2 months to the day since I started this thread and while some issues have been resolved the core problem still remains with me, in addition to that there is this sound I'm starting to get especially when the engine warms up. I've been told it's the timing belt too tight, I have since backed off the tension and still I'm hearing this sound. I have installed a greddy timing belt and I have tomei adjustable cam gears. I will try to upload a video clip with the sound. The timing is at 20 deg BTDC but only when I have the cas all the way adjusted. Mechanical timing is spot on (checked over 10 times), tried two stock ecus and still I have the same issue with timing.
  9. Well turns out that the ignitor took a crap, not sure if this was the reason I was having the car erratically shut down at times after idling for a few minutes or if it was causing me to have the above mention timing problems, there was no spark generated on number one cylinder which has me scratching my head as I checked for this as late as last week and it was sparking like it should. I borrowed a friend's ignitor just to make sure. I'll get one and I'll let you guys know what happens with the timing. I still think there is something else wrong but I'll know soon enough.
  10. Thanks, man I'll see how it goes.
  11. In that case I think I had better get another cas, the two cas I have both made contact with the cam exhaust bolts because I didn't have the correct cas seal.
  12. Update....Not sure how much of a progress this is if any at all. I bought two brand new mafs, took out the wire loom, checked and double checked every pinout, every sensor checked and cleaned as was necessary, redid mechanical timing (again). I also cleaned and put back the stock injectors in the car. The car starts and idles but as soon as I blip the gas it shuts off, the timing is 5 (yes 5) degrees btdc with the cas fully adjusted, this is with the front cover on, I'm sure if I were to the the front cover off again I would get about 15 btdc. This what I HAVEN'T done yet, a) compression test b) full the car with gasoline and light it. Believe me I'm close to the latter. The car ran great before I spun bearings and that was 4 years ago, I took my time with this rebuild so it would be right, smh. I'm out of ideas.
  13. Yes I did try to clean it. It's fried, I'm waiting for a pair I ordered and then I'll see how it goes with the idling and then recheck the timing.
  14. Update......turns out I have a very bad maf, I can't even get the injectors to pulse when it is plugged in so I'm trying to source one. I tried to resolder the pins but still not working, it's safe to say it's toast. I also received the correct cas grommet, so I'll see what the timing is when I get the replacement maf.
  15. I ordered the gasket from them so its on the way, the told me it has the spacers in it. I think you might be on to something with afms, I'll check them out. Thanks mate.
  16. Rb26 in a 240sx
  17. Lol, oh boy that old one is long gone my friend. I ordered one from RHD Japan so I hope it will have them in.
  18. I was wondering if I have some stray voltage feeding into the ecu, so I'm going to check the harness.
  19. I have a stock ecu and another one that came with the motorset slightly modded. So the timing is 20 BTDC?
  20. OK, thanks for that correction.
  21. This is the seal I bought, notice it does not have the metal rings around the bolt holes.
  22. I was told that the correct timing is 20 Deg BTDC, correct me if I'm wrong please. Everywhere I looked while researching said the same thing. I have played around with the adjustable gears and that has not had any effect on the cas position which seems a little odd to me. Also the cams have been degreed. I found out that I bought the wrong cas gasket (seal, whatever they call it), hence the reason for the bolts rubbing.The car will start, idle and shuts off after about 7 to 10 mins of idling. Once it shuts off it wont start again. Also if I blip the gas pedal while it is idling it goes past the idle speed and shuts off and once that happens it will not start. I have checked and cleaned the iaac valve, changed it and still having this problem. I checked the coolant temp sensor and it is ok. There are times when the car will start idle and the af ratio will be 13.5 and then it leans out to 17, another time it gets pig rich. All this seems to me to be potentially a wiring issue so I'll be pulling the harness this weekend and I'll keep you guys updated.
  23. Nope, not stock ecu but I can get my hands on one, I used both methods to check the timing and they both give the same results. I noticed something else this morning, the exhaust cam bolts are rubbing on the inside of the cas. I think the rubber cas seal that I have is the wrong one, it has no metal where the cas bolt would go, I was trying to post a link that has a similar one to mine but this thing is not allowing me to paste, I'll take pictures tomorrow.
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