J_Red33

I'll put myself down as a maybe at the moment. Lots can change for me in 2 weeks

Yeah admittedly I don't have a sealed battery, but I was experiencing the same issues with the previous battery that was sealed. As for the terminals, corrosion wasn't an issue, but they were nice & hacked & needed replacing anyway, so thought I'd give it a shot. As for the solution, there is now 5 things I can see possibly causing the problem: 1. Bad RCA leads (I do know of some1 that changed them & it fixed their problems) 2. RCA leads too close too speaker wiring (I personally find this 1 highly unlikely) 3. Power source to the head unit. 4. A need for a power capacitor for the Amp (400W RMS 4 channel Amp) 5. A need to neaten up the wiring to the Amp Thanks for the contributions guys

Surprised you haven't changed the O2 by now Andrew. With the economy you're getting you'll save a fortune if you change the sensor, should pay for itself in a matter of weeks. I normally check mine each time I fill up. I do between 300 - 400km a week usually. My driving is normally all suburban with lots of hard launches & acceleration (I just cant help myself ). For that kind of driving I normally average between 11.7 to 12.2 Litres/100Km, 12.2 being if I've been using the airconditioning most if the time. If I start doing any major highway/country stuff I can get it into the 10's easy & have seen 9's Before doing my O2 sensor my economy had crept up to about 15 Litres/100km..

Cheers mate, best score I've had in a while admittedly. Was a great night out, & good to meet a few new faces. Thanks to Patrick for organising it all, would have liked to have stayed longer, but I stuggled enough as it was this morning. Oh & I don't know about anyone else but that schnitter gave me enough gas to run my car to work & back for nothing . Great tasting schnitter, may go for a steak next time though.

I will be working saturday myself too, so not 100% on what I'll be doing yet. Think I'll probably at least turn up for dinner, but after may be out depending on sleep requirements (start work at 6 :S)

Just an update, I've re-routed my speaker & RCA leads now. It's not perfect but I'd say it's a good 90-95% better, can hear it a bit still when the alternator is loaded up (ie just started the car, headlights on etc). I've also noted that my RCA's are a tad loose on the earth sheild so I need to tighten them up (ie squeeze the contacts in a bit, they're toothed). Wiring also needs a bit more of a tidy up in the boot too. As far as the speaker wire goes I've still got 1 pair running next to the RCA's (didn't really want to go out & buy new cable to do it the other way) but I don't think it's making a lot of difference, will have a bit of a play around to see what I can do to improve it further when I get time. Technically if the Speaker output is on a properly regulated circuit (ie the amps internal regulated supply), it shouldn't be carrying the engine interferance anyway. I am actually starting to think the sheilding on the RCA's it just simply inadequate (they are Cadence leads, for those out there wondering & so is the amp). Sound quality is much better now too due to the thicker leads running to the front now & a bit of amp tuning has gone a long way to helping as well.

Didn't sound ignition module to me, not if the car wasn't even cranking. Sounds like you're on track now

Tell me what this guy was smoking when this crap came out of his mouth. Almost all factory radiators are rubber mounted so why aren't all factory cars pissing coolant after a couple of years? I agree with what GTROB says, though you still need a source for the current & then your problem is dodgy wiring not your radiator.

Doesn't sound like he'd had it long enough to get the alarm soughed, unfortunantely. These guys are gettin' close to my way too, glad I've got a top alarm/immobiliser system on mine. Hope he get's it back

Definantely interested in this. $200 - $300 for a course that could one day save your life isn't that bad really. I want to get an EBC for my car but I'll hold off for this if necessary. Been meaning to do one so now's the time.

I'm actually not sure what my pads are (haven't had to change them yet) but I've personally found that my biggest problem is when my stock rotors get wet. They get a layer of surface rust almost instantly! First few stops they squeil at low speed, but after that they're ok again.

Yeah absolutely. 0.1KW extra is hardly gonna be noticeable when ur cruising the 'burbs. Right now I'd be very happy with 200KW, but of course that will only last so long....

Strongly recommend the 044. Even if you mount it in tank & then find it's not working good enough, you can convert it to external mount like it's meant to be & it won't cost a lot more. Really it's not designed to work as an in-tank pump & probably is more prone to cavitation for this reason if not carefully set up. My 2cents

Yeah that's exactly what I'm thinking of doing with mine when the time comes (before or after a front mount, not sure yet). The 33's sock is very long I've never seen another like it, so best to stick with the standard sock IMO as long as it's in good nick.

Very nice power output. Also my primary long term target & no doubt would hit 300 on a cooler day.

Are all you guys that are using 044's all mounting them internally out of curiousity? The best way to get it right it to make sure the pump sits as low as possible yes, but it needs to be eleveated off the bottom just a bit as this can cause cavitation too & therefore a noisy pump. How long is the sock too? Is it long enough to reach the bottom? I've noted that the standard pump has a very long sock to reach & get a good draw of fuel from the bottom of the tank, if the replacement doesn't do this then you will have problems guranteed.

Well I'm glad you're not too upset about it Savage, sorry to hear the car's stuffed though, at least it wasn't worth too much. Man that's a seriously long cue for the cop shop though, they must have their hands full up there. You should come down to Sturt police station, barely a cue at all there & several on hand. I don't know how well the charges they've laid would stack up in court, would think they need some sought of proof of you performing a dangerous lane change as opposed to one that you're attempting evasive action. That they've stuffed up the charge may even be enough to get it thrown out of court, I'd speak to someone professional for advice before doing anything more. That's about as much as I could tell you. My only experience with collisions wasn't so bad in that the guy that hit me was deacent enough to admit fault. Considering the amount you have to have done ImportS13 your repairs seem rather cheap. My rear end damage was also fixed by Doyles & cost about $2800 & you could barely see the damage!

^^^ Yep that's the plan, as well as grounding the RCA's properly. Between those I think I'll have the problem licked. Will update with results on how I go.

Installing filter caps on the speaker wires is an absolute last resort as this will also affect the sounds of the audio, & not really a solution to a problem that shouldn't be there. If your problem is on the input to the head unit then that's where it has to be fixed. You may need to change your lead set up on your auxillary to cure you're issues. The problem with my set up, is that the RCA cables have got a ground wire that's meant to be connected at the head unit & the amp & it hasn't been done, so the input to the amp is effectively floating, doesn't have the same ground reference as the head unit & therefore highly susceptable to interfearance. Getting it away from the bloody fuel pump relay will also help in my case.

Very interested, great idea PK. If it's the 23rd I'm probably in, but the 24th I'm already busy.

Old thread now, but I'd thought I'd reply anyway since I was going to post on here. My RCA's are running down the Passenger side at the moment, along with the speaker wires for both fronts (don't ask, wasn't my doing, something I have to fix). The main issue I think most face is with engine noise. It's doubtfull that keeping the speaker wires away from the RCA's will gain much. I've now installed my stinger terminals after having to destroy the old ones. The positive cable was a bit think to fit into the 4 gauge fitting, not completely happy with it. As far as curing any engine noise it's done nothing, but I now suspect that the grounding of my RCA's (or the complete lack of) is the main issue. Also 2 of the RCA's are jammed under the fuel pump relay which is not helping things. Going to be ripping appart half the car on the weekend I think to fix the wiring problems up.

I've also got this problem & part of my trouble I believe is the stupid installers set the amp up with the rear speaker RCA connections to the amp jammed under the fuel pump relay. I have to rotate my amp the other way around, this will probably cure half my problem. But they also have not grounded the RCA's at the amp, so they had NFI (COMPLETE AUDIO U SUCK!)

Hmmm Cars, Cars, Cars Computers, Electronics (this stuff is my day job too, which used to be parts for cars ) Go to the Gym a have also been into Cycling & Karate. Love my food & a variety of it. Make & drink home brew. Like going into town & socialising a bit too. If I had the money travelling would be a hobby too, want to go to. Want to go to Europe this year.

Actually I'm pretty sure that he doesn't have it any more. If memory serves me correctly Prof_dls bought his off of him & put in on the 33 he had before it was written off. Just happend to come up in coversation when I saw him at his place after the accident. Could I also please be PM'd with a quote for a R33 S2 interior rear view mirror & for a passenger door attaching loop (I don't know it's proper name, the part where the door latches to the body) & a drivers side door trim. All need to be in good condition to be worth while for me. Cheers

Just a bit of a side note. Not all gearboxes are the same either. I learnt in the old Ford telstar I used to get around in when saving up for my 33 to change gears without using the clutch at all & in the end I always drove it that way. The clutch only went in if I was about to stop or take off. The 33 is another story however. It will do it at low revs, but not very easily & high revs just equal grauching when changing without the clutch. It also has to be shifted a bit slower as it will graunch if shifted too quickly anyway, one of the side effects of it being such a strong gearbox. Another little trick, apply light pressure to the gearstick when getting ready to change, it will pop out when you lift off the throttle & depress the clutch, then let it flow into the next gear. You actually shift slower but get into the next gear just as fast doing this.