J_Red33

Yes it is possible that testing would help as far as the flow rates are concerned, & if you're very lucky matching spray patterns too. Still you probably won't get them as closely matched as a brand new set & you will end up spending more money when it comes to tuning. Yeah the most expensive part would be the flow tester. The best flow testers are actually a flow tube with a needle as you can see any inconsistencies with individual pulses of fuel. A bit of electronics to run the set up is also required for running the injector. Making up the rest is then a piece of cake. Yeah dead right, you can't do anything once that top is removed unless you've got the skills of a master fitter & turned (plus very bloody expensive tools) & can attach a new plate. What it flows once that plate is gone is what you're stuck with.

I'd do it myself if I had the equipment, but I no longer do this for a living. Learning about all these little details when I could was the only thing that stopped me going insane!!

Well here's an interesting trick that some of you may not know about. I went to 1 tyre store today to get a quote for a pair of Dunlop Sport Maxx's (sized 235/40/18) & I got quoted $395. Righto not bad for their top of the line tyre in such a big size I thought.... but then I rang another place that I have gone to on more than 1 occasion when I got home & found out there's 2 types with different load ratings in that size - 91Y & 95Y (95 being the higher load rated one of the two). When I got the price it turned out that the one with the lower load rating was $395 as quoted by the other dealer, but the higher load rated tyre was actually CHEAPER at only $349 a tyre! So chances are, I'll probably end up going for the higher load rated tyre unless it's considered too hard in the sidewalls. The guy then went on to say that I'd probably been quoted on the lower load rated tyre price, but would be sold the higher rated one anyway if I went to the other workshop, which is more than likely! Having said that I had a look at my K104's on the back & they're rated at 97Y or 730KG per corner!

Ok guys well this has been a bit of an interesting read for me. I am personally quite experienced in fuel injector testing & have seen some of this stuff done on several occasions, but seldom have seen it done good enough. So first I'd like to respond to a few comments made. This is highly probable, especially if the fuel comes out as a solid jet. For fuel to atomise properly it means it has to start mixing well with the air the moment it leaves the injector. How much pressure were you running when testing the injector? If all you got when testing the injector with the end plate still on was a solid jet, then the pressure simply wasn't high enough to test it properly. ^^^^ as per my last comments. The quality of the R32 GT-R injectors to the RX-7 injectors isn't that great as they use basically the same generation injection technology, however the 32 injectors are prone to body leaks..... good for engine fires. R33 injectors (& these side feed injectors in general) on the other hand give fantastic spray patterns & are generally very reliable too. The newest type Bosch injectors also use a very similar set up only top feed (JECS is actually owned by Bosch) & these are also very good injectors. There are several reasons for not getting good fuel economy with O2 sensors also being a very common problem & too often an overlooked reason that's relatively cheap & very easy to fix. Yeah it's ok as far as making the bigger holes is concerned, but it has to be done very precisely for it to work as well as it should. The holes all need to be drilled cleanly with pin point accuracy to ensure the spray pattern is not too narrow or broad. The further out from the middle the holes are, the greater the angle of each individual stream from dead straight. If chopping off the plate means that you only get a solid jet of fuel, there is no way in hell that this is going to work as well as a deacent set of aftermarket injectors. Inconsistencies in the hole sizes will also result in greater variation in flow too. There was 1 comment I read that said the variation in flow was only about 5cc/min on a set flowing over 500cc/min each. This is VERY good if not execptional work (better than standard in many cases), so excuse me if I'm just a little juvious about the results they gave. Ones I have tested in the past have had much greater variations than this & none have sprayed as well as good quality aftermarket injectors. Another point to make is that fuel injectors, while most of the time they are tested just flat out on all the time NEVER operate that way. Fuel injectors are switched on & off with each engine cycle to give the precise amount of fuel required at exactly the right time. Opening & closing an injector is not instantaneious & does in fact take a very short time to open & close. While some sets of injectors will all flow the same flat out, they may not do so when they are being pulsed on & off continuously just as they would in an engine. Doing this kind of testing I have sometimes seen quite big variations that would otherwise not have been noticeable if they were just flowed flat out (This is also where RX-7 injectors fall down the most). Spray patterns can also be seriously messed up when doing this & I have failed dozens of injectors for this reason (much more common on injectors with an exposed pintle), which in some cases was the only problem that they ever had. I short this kind of stuff is do-able & I'm not going to say it can't/shouldn't be done, but there are numerous possibilities for things to be wrong so tread carefully, don't get greedy & don't expect them to be AS good as as factory made high-flows or you may be dissapointed. Personally I'd spend the extra money on a set designed to flow at the higher level in the first place. I hope people find this information usefull

Ok a bit of a quick question for you guys with the AVC-R How big is the control solonoid? Reason I ask is that I want to keep everything as hidden as possible & am thinking of trying to hide the controller underneath the air box. I just went into Autobarn a few days back & they had Blitz controller module on display (I think for the Dual SBC model), it was HUGE. Not sure that I want to shove something quite that bulky in my engine bay full stop.

Thanks guys. I didn't have a problem with the Sony system I bought the car with, but no amp was in there at the time. It's also possibly to do with the fact that 2 of my RCA leads are wedged underneath the fuel pump relay. The Amp really should have been installed the opposite way around with the RCA inputs away from the major electricals (thanks a lot for your crap install Complete Audio) I think I'll give the Jaycar terminals a go, have to be better than the standard ones. Don't think I'll bother going for the one with the volt meter on it though as you wouldn't even be able to read it when it's connected. Just something extra to go wrong. I was also considering re-wiring the head unit & using a terminal block so I can power bits like an EBC off of it later so that may be the go. Going to do the terminals first though & see what happens. Cheers

Look forward to seeing you & your big hearted buzz box back on the street soon

Heard a lot of bad stories. There was a thread on them a little while back in the cosmetic styling & mods section. Do a search for them there.

Hi guys, wasn't sure weather or not to put this in here or general maintenance, but since car audio seems to have the greatest demand when it comes to the electrical system I thought this was ideal. A while ago I had to change my battery for my R33 S2 as I was getting engine noise in my stereo system. After changing the battery the noise seemed to go away for a bit but then it returned. I have come to the point now where I am going to have to rewire some of my audio system as I think this may be the cause. However before I do this I want to be sure it's not the standard battery terminals causing issues as they have been somewhat butchered to fit the new battery. My question is what battery terminals do you audio experts recommend? I'm currently looking at getting a pair of gold plated ones from Jaycar that have the multiple cable fittings as these are the best I've been able to find. Cheers

Not something just anyone would keep, each O-ring is a special size & has to be designed to be used in fuel systems. Easiest to get from Nissan themselves, other than that try some mobs that specialise in EFI systems or that do a lot of work on nissan engines

Anyone else with an EBC they can comment on? Even if it's the same one, more than 1 opinion is good

They'd be exactly the same mate, especially if they have the same plug. Just typical nissan changing the part number for a different model

That was NightCrawler (Andrew) & myself (Jared) you were cruising with. That's the biggest problem with a cruise like that, you don't really get to socialise enough to get to know everyone. We'll have to have some sought of casual social event some time.

I have to say I enjoy day cruising more wet or not, because you can see everything, but night is good for the lack of traffic. Better weather at night would be a lot more enjoyable, but you still have to be that bit extra carefull.

Yeah this is actually the ideal situation for the solonoid, it's actually not very good if it's opening & closing continuously as it will shorten the life of the solonoid from the amount of movement as well as causing vibrations for heavier solonoids. The frequency is normally kept constant for a given set up. Very unusual for it to use frequency modulation as well.

Thanks for clearing that up Roy. Don't know why Perfect Run says there's 2 different types though Or at least that's the way I read it. A bit misleading really: http://www.perfectrun.com.au/performance%2...oostconavcr.htm Just some extra information: The solenoid won't actually open & close if the frequency is high enough. The idea is to actually pump a frequency into the solenoid that is high enough that it stops opening & closing so that it holds a certain position, but not so high that it stops responding properly. Solenoids are tricky things, each 1 works differently & will respond at different speeds their power input, which is why you'd have the frequency change. If the solonoid is actually opening & closing at 10 Hz it's gonna cause mayhem with the boost.

Used to repair these. Fundamentally they all work the same as they all use the same style of coils, though not necessarilly the same fitment. The only real difference is the connectors, the circuit inside was the same. Common problem. We used to completely replace the circuit inside with something far more robust (couldn't fix them anyway), that would work on almost any coil you could throw at it.

Sounds like someone's been watching gone in 60 seconds too often to me. Sorry to hear mate, I too have heard Burnside get's a lot of break-ins, hope it all gets soughed out without too much hassle.

Yeah would have, been a lot more enjoyable with better front tyres & dry conditions. On my way home the road was drying out & was completely dry by the time I got home! Stinkin weather. Ahh well still I wouldn't have wanted to be doing anything else. So all good

^^ Sinista: Are you saying that you could fit it inside the DIN pocket underneath the main DIN slot for the stereo? This is really what I'd like to do if I was to get one. The biggest con I can see with the AVC-R is if you go from an internal to an external wastegate. Apparently there's 2 versions, 1 for each type. I don't know what you have to go though to convert from 1 to the other if at all possible. Satanic: That E-01 really is huge there's no way I'm having that monolith in my car, good job on the install though. When's someone gonna come up with EBC that can link into a standard DVD touch screen? Now that would be real stealth.

Yeah I'd seriously be interested in going for that money. But yeah much more & I'll be dipping into my holiday savings. A track course of any sought is better than none at all.

From what I've already heard from others, not just on here is that the Profec B-spec isn't really that good. At least you wouldn't be wasting as much money.

Hello everyone, I've seen a few threads on here talking about a few different boost Electronic Boost Controllers in the past, but I think it's time for a full review of what's now out there on the market, 1 because there seems to be a lot of new stuff out there & 2 I want 1 & need to make a decision on what to get . Seriously though I think this would be useful for everyone on here, now & in the future. So if you've had or have an EBC, please give us a bit of info of how well you think it works as a boost controller as well as how usefull it is for it's other functions, ease of fitment etc. Amoung some ones at present I have been eyeing off myself there is: Apexi AVC-R Blitz SBC i-D III Blitz SBC i-Colour HKS EVC V Gizzmo iBC Greddy Profec B-spec II Please don't limit this thread just to these because your controller isn't listed. If you've got a different controller please post comments good & bad. NOTE: this is not a thread for the cheapest boost controller you can find (not interested in bleed valves thankyou), that thread can be found elsewhere in the Quick ref list that R31Nismoid has provided. Cheers

Sounds like a good idea I'll be free. Will people be getting grub beforehand? Maybe we could go somewhere for a bite to eat before heading to the meet point. If you're on the southern side of town I should be able to give you a ride, PM me if you're interested. Otherwise my passenger seat is spare too....

^^^ 2nd that