J_Red33

Man that's no good, you haven't had your 33 that long have you? Mine's in getting fixed too at the moment so I know the feeling. Sorry to hear mate

Sorry Mate, everyone stuffs up somewhere along the line. Can't change the poll now that it's been set, but I'll fix it on the main thread

My car will be straight & shiny by then, so I'd be interested.

Ahh now I know where I've seen you before. You were at their BBQ last christmas weren't you? Went along myself to check it out. Nice people & all, but things were clearly falling apart for the club, which is kinda sad really. I had thought that SA should have it's own full blown SAU club but I'd never mentioned it as I didn't want to step on the toes of SVD, didn't realise they were now gone. There is also the Vmax club which is a part of the Sporting Car Club SA, but I don't know what they are like. Yet to check it out.

Well we're not exactly a mens club are we?? Naah not a guys weekend it's a Skylines weekend (though we're not really discriminating there either). Women are more than welcome, single women even more so . I guess it would have been a better idea to actually just establish the most popular location first & then figure out the date. Sounds like Jan's out, should have know I guess being summer & school holidays. Thanks for doing the legwork Andrew.

Ok Guys this is the first vote set up for when people want to go for a trip camping/cabining. The place with the most votes will be the first area I will try to see if we can get in. Whether we make it 1 or 2 nights will be determined at a later date, it may be possible to have 2 runns, 1 lot arriving on friday & another saturday. If you have any additions, comments, questions etc. & for more info please go to the main thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=144209 Edit: Nightcrawler has done some ringing around & found out that virtually nowhere is available in January. So for now just pick any date when voting, the finalised weekend will have to be determined at a later date Cheers

Not meaning to be rude mate & this is probably as much if not more directed at Adz2332 as well (I thought it was him to start off with), this information you are asking about is on the other sections of the SAU forum mate. Try looking up stuff there a bit more rather than flooding this section with questions that have been answered a million times. It's always good to have enthusiastic people aboard who are not affraid to ask questions to learn stuff, but really the state forums are ment for more locally related stuff.

The fuel consumption that Andrew is getting pretty is very high , I'd say replace the O2 first & then see if it fixes it, if not keep the old 1 as a spare. The more kays and the more hard driving it's suffered the more likely it's stuffed. Mine was screwed even with less than 50,000 on the dial & it probably should have been changed about 5,000 earlier as it was already chewing an extra litre per 100 to what it should have been. Common with older type injectors for this to happen, usually the spray pattern starts going a bit crappy & stops vapourising properly, instead you get almost a solid jet of fuel. Sometimes they would also not shut properly so would be flowing fuel all the time, but this was less common. Dual fuel cars are the worst, the crap building up from backfiring & oils mixed in with the gas collecting on them makes them stuff up eventually guranteed. Cleaning usually fixed the problem, though if you wanted to go higher flowing injectors it was still better to put the money towards that.

Hallett Cove

My ride is in for repairs & I'll probably be working too, apologies in advance for not coming. Hope it turns out to be a good day

Make sure you specify model too, it may be different from 1 engine to another depending on series & model. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same as an R33's but you have to make sure. I think if there was enough interested with a group buy I could get them about $15 cheaper. Don't know if thats enough to sway people though.

$99 is deacent for retail, though it doesn't hurt to shop around. Maybe I could set up a small group buy with my old work mates if there were enough people interested, though I don't know how much cheaper u'd get it than that.

I could come.... In an EA Fairmont Ghia (Deacent for a loan car) Doyles is fixing mine at the moment so I probably won't make it unless there's another ride I can join from down south.

Some of the metallic type cats you get now aren't much different to having a straight thorough really, much more free flowing & also legal. Worth the money IMO

So did you actually try swapping the gauge connections over to see if the gauges still read the same when they are swapped?? What happened when you did?

Need to know what you were talking about first mate. Anyway the O2 sensor goes into your exhaust, just after the turbo on the dump & by measureing how much oxygen (ie O2) is in the exhaust gas it can determine if it is running rich/lean or ok. Over time they wear out & usually read less voltage meaning it thinks the gas is lean therefore the ECU enrichens the mixture to compensate. Anyhow to answer your question, you shouldn't be looking at any more than about $120 (I'm not sure I got mine for special discount, old work friend ) Even with that price though it will pay for itself within about 3 months & then you'll end up miles in front after a year.

Now that is a very short diff, didn't think they'd be crazy enough to make it that low. Making up for the lack of torque I guess I didn't actually know they had to fit intrusion bars, goo that they made them do so though. Maybe it was cars that were imported early on in the grey imports scheme that didn't get them done, I'm pretty sure there's some out there without them fitted.

Never changed the AFM mate, just the O2 sensor. Did I mention AFM? Caltex does sell a 98 octane fuel called Vortex 98 funnily enough. Not sure about availability in Adelaide though, I'm always going to BP.

Sorry guys, have to set up a poll for this to get everyones opinion

Funny how all the R32 owners are talking up R32's (Though to be fair Cubes did give a bit of credit to the 33). Some other things to take into account with an R33 over an R32 is the safety & strength of it over a 32. There is NO WAY I will be going back to a car without airbags after personally witnessing what a difference they make. A lot more emphasis was put on the safety side of things by the time the R33 came around, R32's don't have side intrusion beams for a start. Also the RB25 is gonna be a lot torquier out of the box due to the extra capacity, & an exhaust, front mount intercooler, PFC, & (if you want to wind up the boost) a high flowed turbo is all it takes to start getting some really deacent numbers & performance out of them. If you gotta go stick an R33 engine & gearbox into a 32, you are talking big money already before you even do any other mods. I wouldn't exactly call a R33 tall geared either, considering it's doing nearly 3 grand at 100 in fifth (I'd love a 6th gear), it still runs a 4.11 diff & can barely hit 60 in first gear & 100 in second before smaking the limiter, surely a 32 isn't geared shorter than that. The 2 stage boost is all that makes R33's a bit weak in the low revs so spend a few bucks on some sought of boost control & you've got nearly peak torque from about 2500rpm. I want to see an RB20 that can do that. 32's from what I've seen seem to be a lot more prone to electrical gremlins, something I think they improved greatly on 33's if not perfected. Interior is also a lot more pleasing to the eye. Personally I'm glad I saved the extra money for a 33 Adz2332 I'm a little concerned over you obsession with quater mile times, I don't know if you're asking because you want to stupidly street race, legally drag race, or just because you think it's a good way to measure how quick a car is. What you have to remember is that you have to live with the way the car drives when you're not reving it's head off down a drag strip. Some cars are hugely powerfull when you're revving the hell out of them, but can be an absolute dog when you are not. Try driving an old 930 model Porsche 911 turbo & you'll know exactly what I mean.

Thought it had to be too good to be true. Though it would have been more suitable for me than cruising, I won't have my car, just some hire bomb while mine is being fixed.

Yes there is still a good chance they are fine. I'm guessing these are the Jecs body feed injectors (same style & brand as original injectors) never had much trouble with these in my experience, but yes it would be good to double check. Ask them if they've tested other sets of these injectors before, they should have data on the other sets (I kept copies of all my testing data for future reference, which came in very handy) they may be able to tell you if the rates were normal. Pulse testing injectors is a good way to test them, I did most of my testing that way. I'd also check the spray patterns too to make sure that the fuel is vapourising properly. It's definantely a good idea to flow test them at maximum especially if you have little or no previous data on their 100% flow, just so you know what they're meant to be doing. Your set looks like they're flowing fairly evenly from the results, if he wasn't using a proper flow gauge or timing setup that could account for some of the variation, still acceptable though.

AWD should definantely be much better off the line, but it does depend somewhat on the system being used & how it is biased. Some cars have their AWD biased too far to the front or back to be as effective as they should be. I've heard R32 GT-R's can have some issues with the clucth pack not engauging fast enough to drive the fronts, where as 33 GT-Rs have no such issue due to them having a system set up with constant torque split front to rear. What rubber you use with the RWD will also have a great affect on how well it grips, as well as suspention set-up, differential, gearing etc. There are a lot of gains to be made over the standard set up, all a matter of how much $$$$ you have. Drag racers still use rear wheel drive only (yes their tyres are massive slicks, but everything's relative) & most supercars are still only rear wheel drive (The Bugatti Veyron & Lamborghini's are the only ones I can think of that are AWD, the rest are all RWD), so there has to be something in that.

Personally I think you can ask as many questions as you like on here, but until you check out & drive the cars for yourself (yes they'll be different with mods, but things can only change so much), you're never gonna know what you really want. Also figure out what requirements you have for the car. I came up with a fairly big list which included: -6 cylinders (had a 4 & wasn't satisfied with the torque, but didn't want the heavy front end that a V8 gives) -Rear or all wheel drive -Coupe preferred as I don't need to carry people too far or often. -Clearance to get up a steep driveway (this eliminated Supras & most modded Skylines or anything else for that matter) -Sharp handling (take Soarers off the list, too heavy to be nimble) -Able to carry something reasonable in the boot (it was to be my every day car, also eliminated Supras) -Drivers Airbag, minumum (ruled out R32's, also the early 1's I believe don't even have a side intrusion beams, no go for me) -Good condition & low kays (not a lot wrong with mine, but still stuff to be fixed even after 2 years) -Reliability & availability of parts. (Some Toyota's can be a real bitch to get parts for) I think you may get the picture. Make your own list of stuff up, go check a few different cars out & see how satisfied you are with each. The less you are satisfied with something the harder it will be to sought out later. My $2 worth

Done a lot of this stuff before myself. The info given is not the absolute flow rate of the injectors, but a flow rate for them being pulsed on & off for 15 seconds, rather than a minute. However there is a lot of info missing. It doesn't tell you what proportion of the time the injectors are turned on (duty cycle) & what speed they are turning on & off at. I think the 35milliseconds refers to how long the injector is on for each time it is pulsed, but without the other info it means nothing. 40psi is also an odd pressure to use as normally flow ratings on injectors is done using 3 bar of pressure or 43.5 PSI. To put it in perspective the rating you have been given is from the people that tested it is: 284cc/min @ 2.76 Bar with ?% duty cycle & 36ms duration for each pulse The rating for your injectors as you have stated is: 555cc/min @ 3 bar with 100% duty cycle (Ie it is on 100% of the time)