J_Red33

For that kind of money in broken box's, wouldn't they have been better off upgrading it to an STi 6 speed? From what I know these are meant to be a lot stronger than the POS that's in every other WRX.

Well you've obviously got too much money running out your ears mate, pass some here will ya . Why spend more money on fuel than you have to? My car runs better than it did before AND gives better economy as a result of the O2 sensor change plus I'm saving money on fuel at the same time, bonus all round. 12L/100km still isn't truely what I'd call economical relative to a Jazz Or a bloody Prius which uses barely half what my Skyline does, but the money I'm now saving on petrol will help pay for other things I do to the car, or whatever else. Bare minimum I will save over a year is about $600 (if I was to travel less than 300km a week, but I normally travel at least 350), not exactly loose change.

Tents aren't exactly expensive these days. I got a deacent 3 man tent for $60 (normally $80). Fits 2 comfortably with heaps of room. You only have to pay for it once too...... unless you've got a dog with no bone to chew.

Yeah I've been driving mine around for the last week, using the air-con half the time, driving only in suburban & city traffic & always fill the tank to the top & netted 11.7L/100km when I filled it up today. Pretty good really.

I found heaps of R33's that didn't have HICAS, & they were factory original. When I bought mine it was the only one I'd found with the system on it & these were only just complied cars we're talking about here too. The setup is actually a bit different & lacks the adjustments for toe that the HICAS type rear end has.

That's where a pen & paper is your friend. Write kms & litres & figure it out later My best ever economy was 10, but that was before the O2 sensor. I did a combine city country drive on a tank a few weeks back & got 10.7, I reckon a full country drive would be more like 9.5 now.

Man that's pretty bad leaking actually. They won't cause bad AF ratios unless they're leaking profusely, in which case I'd be more worried about engine fire anyway. If you're at all unsure, get them tested somewhere professionally & cleaned at the same time. However like RB30-POWER says, they do have a bad habbit of leaking from the body & are unrepairable. If you have a PFC or similar, just get some higher flowing ones & get it retuned.

Quite the opposite actually. If earnt more money I'd chew through rear tyres like a dog does a chop, so I do try to restrain myself. I usually boot it whenever I get the chance though . It;s just really important to have a good O2 sensor. I was getting 15's before hand. You should calculate it out mate it's not that hard, & see if you got bad or good economy. Pleanty of guys are getting economy better than me, they MUST drive like grandma's or on highways a lot.

I can't see why you need things like the Hicas to be re-fitted. Did your car have it? As long as the suspension is properly aligned it's perfectly safe & just like 99.9% of all other cars out there that have no rear steering system. What a joke. As far as the boot wing goes I think I may know what's wrong. I fixed my own, it turned out to be a current limiting resistor that was on the +ve input just near the where the wires feed in. It gets moisture in through the seal & corrodes the resistor till it no longer works. I pulled it open using a hair dryer to help separate it (though a heat gun would have been better) changed the resistor & sealed it back up again with clear silicon as well as the wire seal to stop it leaking again. Wouldn't know I'd touched it. Could probably give you a hand with yours if you like, there's bugger all to them. It's a bit fiddley but worth the effort.

Complex explanantion, but I get the picture . I more basic terms, ceramic is a poorer conductor of heat than Iron or alloy etc & basically acts as an insulator to help prevent heat absorbtion by the engine parts that are coated with it. Because of this the gas remains hotter as it's fed out the engine & via the turbine, creating greater flow due to the fact space that the gas requires is greater. Keeping the engine cooler any way possible means greater efficiency so there has to be some sought of power gain there. Contradictory to what I said before I know, but this makes perfect sense after looking at it a bit more.

What kind of economy are you getting Madaz? I'm getting about 12L/100km out of mine now that I've done the O2 sensor. Fantastic economy for a turbo 6

Yeah it's illegal, alright, & if they're trying to flogg it near car yards, it doesn't take too much to figure out who's dobbing them in. Yep trading post is your best bet here mate.

Hmmm I'm guessing accomodation will want to be cheap, so tents would be a goer, but then it's a matter of preference. I'm thinking I should set up a poll for this stuff. I don't even have a fishing rod myself. But then I do love fish so maybe I'll have to make a point of getting one, mmmmm BBQ seafood.

I dunno why people don't just PM you about this stuff Cubes. 2 Steps ahead of everyone else

Hi guys I've updated my initial post updated with list of interested travellers so far. Pretty good list already.

Under sustained full throttle there's no way that wrapping the cold side has any measureable affect, however under light loading it may be another story, but it's all a matter of how insulating the pipes themeselves are in the first place. If the pipe material has poor thermal conductivity or is fairly thick it probably wouldn't do a lot, in constant heavy driving. However with thick piping, they may warm up a bit if driven only lightly for a sustained period & may possibly take several seconds to cool back down. Thin piping would actually cool a lot quicker with the intake air rushing though. I'm not sure how SK did his testing (haven't seen the thread) but for track work I'd agree that it would be useless. This may actually be more useful on the road. I wouldn't expect any power gain with the exhaust wrap either, but it would help with the engine temps. But then again why do they do ceramic coating of exhausts? Even manufacturers have done this so maybe there's something to it.

I found boost cut on my S2 GTS-t at about 14 psi, you know when you hit it because it cuts all engine power momentarily, not nice. I had to go back to the stock boost controller as the ball & spring lump of junk I'd been using wouldn't keep the boost down with my new dump. I was doing low revs so it didn't ping on anything, just a sudden blahh no power.

Damn I think my car's gonna be in the workshop getting the #$@* crash damage fixed.

Yes accidents can happen anywhere any time, that was pretty well the point being made. No I don't think everyone drives an unrelyable skyline, but you never know what could go wrong. As the saying goes 'shit happens'. I'm personally very confident in my own ride 'touch wood' as it is well maintained. However I'm not going to proclaim it unstoppable, just like the Titanic was unsinkable...... I think if everyone as a group could bring a few spare parts (say 1 person brought their spare wheels, another a spare crank angle sensor, another spare coils etc) to cover everybody for the common issues known with skylines it may save someone the agony & expense of having to have their car towed back if necessary. Also the other point is to make sure your car has been serviced & any known problems that have come up be fixed. A car is made up of thousands of parts, but it only takes 1 for you to be left stuck on the side of the road. I don't think it's likely that something would go wrong, but you never know, prevention it better than cure.

I think the Type M business is just a pile off BS myself. 1 of the first comments made on this thread was that Type M is an options list with various features that you could add on to your R33 & from what I've seen I tend to agree. My own car (97 GTS25T coupe) has: Rear wiper Hicas Rear strut brace Sumitomo Brake package (4 pot front 2 pot rear) Dual Airbags (STANDARD from 96 onwards, optional beforehand) How ever it did not come with: Body kit ABS I have seen all soughts of variations on this (I searched for 6 months before I bought mine) some are almost the complete opposite of my own with the kit & ABS, but no HICAS, rear wiper or strut bar. All series 2 GTS-series front bars are exactly the same unlike series 1, however you could add on the Type M front bar lip from the factory too. I don't know where the concept of a type M front bar came from for series 2's, it's bogus. All turbo coupes as far as I know had the Sumitomo brake package standard. I have only ever seen a turbo sedan without it that was a GTS-4 & it may not have even originally had a turbo fitted.

I went to Sydney when I bought my car 2 years ago. It would have easily been another 4 - 6 grand if I bought the same car over here. Gotta watch them over there though, some are really well priced, others are way too much money for their condition. Like mike says there's bugger all supplyers & lots of demand for them over here relative to the eastern states. I've only ever seen maybe 2 or 3 R33's on the road in Sydney over 4 separate visits within a fairly short time. Most I saw were in car yards on Paramatta road. Import central that place.

Yes it does sound like your set up was well optimised, unlike my own with no ducting. Torque in itself isn't an issue, it's maintaining it. Torque is relative to power so the less torque you have for a given rpm the less power it will equate to (same torque at higher rpm = more power). I will have to scan & post up my dynograph to show you what I mean. Basically right front the get go at around 2500 rpm till about 500 to 600rpm later (my graph only shows wheel speed I'll have to actually calculate it out) it stays fairly flat. After this though is starts to progressively drop off throughout the rev range, except when the boost level increases, after which it just drops off even faster. I have been running the stock controller again as after I stuck a newer design replacement dump on (the old 1 cracked), the boost just went sky high with the ball & spring POS I had installed & hit boost cut. I couldn't turn it down enough. My peak power is somewhat later than your own was at roughly 6000 to 6200 rpm since everything is running fine, but the power curve at this point is looking rather flat due to the torque drop off. It doesn't look a lot different to what a stock 33's dyno graph does, just with much higher figures, though a little flakey at the top end. I would have thought it would be a bad idea to insulate the pipes after the turbo, as the air that comes out of the turbo will probably be hotter than the air in the engine bay. After the intercooler may be very useful though to stop cooled air heating back up, as well as wrapping the exhaust as you said. I have no doubt the R34 SMIC flows & cools better than an R33's, but against a deacent FMIC I reckon it would still be way lower. From what I've read before 220 -230KW is about it's power limit. Still it would be good to see some actual bench flow figures as well as measurements of temperature changes of all 3.

Yes it is very much about the social side, just thought there should be a reasonable amount of driving enjoyment thrown into the mix too. I am a petrol head first & foremost over anything else so I always love a good windy road to zip along can't help myself.

Yeah I don't think 2 to 3 hours would be so bad myself. I'm used to spending well over an hour traveling each day.

Ahh 10,000 kgs then. I knew it was 10,000 something just got the units wrong