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Everything posted by J_Red33
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Yeah seen the pics, really want to see the real deal. I'll send you a PM
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Electrical Fault Or Something Else (causes Low Voltage On Start-up)
J_Red33 replied to GTS4-32's topic in General Maintenance
Electrical faults can be a real pain in the ass if it is one & not easy to find for anyone untrained in the electrical field (it's scary how little even numerous autoelecs know sometimes). If the starter is turning over fine you've then got to look at spark and fuel. If the car runs fine I'd say your spark is ok, but I wouldn't rule it out completely. Do you get a real petrol smell when you start the car? If so it could be leaking fuel injectors that are slowly emptying all pressurised fuel into the plenum, but really you need to take the car somewhere to get it checked out if it's becoming an issue. Could be any one of a number of reasons -
Electrical Fault Or Something Else (causes Low Voltage On Start-up)
J_Red33 replied to GTS4-32's topic in General Maintenance
Is the starter actually struggling to turn the engine over? If so you've probably just got a weak battery/old. Get the cells checked if this is the case to see what they are like, or if you have a multimeter check what voltage the battery is reading when the car hasn't been running for at least a couple of hours. Can of worms this one unless you can give us more detail, lots of things make a car hard to start, but low battery power is always a good point to check first. -
Rather than just guessing what a tank of fuel is, calculate your consumption. When you fill the tank see how many litres it takes to fill it, note your kays & work it out. It does sound from what you've said though as far as the needle reading empty, that your consumption is poor. If you don't think your O2 sensor has been changed DO IT! I personally left it longer than I should have (& I should know better), it was completely shot & I was getting about 15L/100km. Now I'm doing around 12L/100km give or take a bit. Most of my driving is is the city & I do give it a bootfull off the line quite regularly. Cruising on an interstater I'd see 10's easy, maybe less. Most people don't realise how important an O2 sensor is to your economy but it's vital to getting good consumption. It should be changed once every 5 years & it's worth it. I'm now saving at least $10 a week or about $520 a year on petrol to what it would cost me if I hadn't changed the sensor. NTK 1's retail for something like $130, you'll get your money back within 13 weeks if you go through a tank a week at the moment, or even more if you travel further. Oh & you can probably smell fuel when the car is stationary wafting in though your window or vents, since it'll be running rich as. Look at your rear bar, if it's getting lots of black crap on it she's rich as buggery.
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Yes well I did have some issues with my dump setup too. The original one I got cracked & BATMBL replaced it no problems, however they didn't fit the same (turns out the original was made wrong after making some checks against the stocker) so I had to get some dodgy mods done for it to fit on, so now my stainless custom cat back no longer lines up right . Not real happy about that bit since my car is otherwise nearly showroom condition.
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Hi guys, well I've now figured out where I'm getting my car fixed, but I still need to figure out what pods I'm going to stick on my car. I'm currently debating between Type M style & GT-R style pods as there doesn't really seem to be much else out there. I have seen what a pair of the Type M jobs look like, now I need to see a car with the GT-R one's so I can make a decision. If anyone out there has a pair of the GT-R skirts & is willing to meet up somewhere for a me to have a squizz at them first hand (pictures are only good for so much) it would be greatly appreciated. The sooner I sought this out the sooner I get my baby fixed up better than new. Cheers
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I'd have liked to put my car it but I don't think it'll be fixed in time Maybe next year
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I wouldn't say don't mod your car to avoid the cops, just do it so that it's descreet & primarily legal (ie not dumped on it's guts & loud as hell with the fat cannon out the back, noisy BOV etc.). I haven't got stacks of mods yet, but I aim to keep it as secret as possible, the less it yells out 'come & get me' the less likely they are to touch you.
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Well my dad said it was a Skyline too when he saw it, but it's none of the above. It's an S15, could pick it straight away with the shape of the C-pillar, & rear guard. He must have been going pretty quick. Personally I think it's ok to go for a drive in the Hills & can be a lot of fun, but you should know to stick well within the limits of the car & yourself & know where those limits are. Either way, I don't like to see this stuff happening RIP.
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Type M Pods, Are They Chunky Enough With Gt-r Skirts?
J_Red33 replied to J_Red33's topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
Ok well the GT-R skirts are definantely different. Unlike the GTS-t (Type M) skirts they have a much more heavily scolloped section underneath the doors that then blends in at either end, & have a definite bow shape to their lower edge where as the GTS-t's are virtually straight. They also hang out a fair bit further than GTS-T skirts, something several people have commented on. Here's a few extra photo's to help illustrate what I mean: Now if you've ever seen the Type M Pods you will know that they also don't have the scolloped shape that the GT-R ones do & hence my dielema. I have now seen what the Type M pods look like on my car & while they hang low enough I am unsure about the look as far as how wide they hang out & that they are not scolloped. My problem with the GT-R pods, is that while they have the nice scolloped out shape that starts at the guard I'm not sure that I'm a real fan of the extention that wraps around on to the rear bumper rather than just blending in to & finishing where the rear bar begins. Ideally if I could find a set of pods that are scolloped but finish at the rear bar I would be infinately happy, however I may be forced to pick from what's available or go custom. Though I haven't priced that yet.... -
Not sure I'd go as far with the engine mods as you want to straight away without doing some sought of suspension/handling work. It's all well & good having all that power, but you need to have a car that's capable of cornering & stopping just as quickly. So some additional things to add to what Cubes already listed: - Deacent quality tyres & maybe wheels (270KW is probably a bit much for any tyre in the stock size IMO) - Firmer springs & bushes (at the absolute minimum. Preferably some good quality monotube shocks as well) - Clutch (it will have to be changed for that kind of power anyway) - Brake rotors (stockies aren't the best) - Master cylinder brace - Oil catch tank - & before you do anything too serious make sure all the fluids etc are all up to scratch. You can't build a sky scraper without a deacent foundation, or a top fuel dragster without a parachute, same analogy applies for a street car. Just a bit of friendly advice, don't want to see people getting hurt.
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Yeah haven't had the best of times myself, but I still count myself lucky that I'm an Aussie
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After reading the mods done to the car & reading these comments I'd have to say this does make perfect sense. I've got a friend with an S14 who had to put a catch tank in after similar mods as he was loosing stacks of oil (Partly to do with the fact that he couldn't turn boost below about 16 PSI!) Catch tank cured his issues. Surprised the workshop hadn't suggest you fit one too.
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Just to alleviate any possible confusion: That's the turbo dump pipe in the top picture not the exhaust manifold. Exhaust manifold is the exhaust pipe work coming off of the head & in this case is between the head & the turbo. Good pick up on the fault.
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You probably should reset your ECU after cleaning the injectors so it can re-learn the set up. It can take a couple hundred kays to settle in. Also it could be that you were actually running closer to normal AFR's because the injectors were dirty. The actual reason could be that the O2 sensor is kaput & the system is running over rich because of it. Look for lots of black crap on the bumper around the exhaust after a weeks worth of driving, a good indication it's over-rich.
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A lot of people seem to go for RX7 injectors because they are cheap. Sure they'll do the job, but I'd save my pennys for something better.
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Is it mainly while the car is still warming up that you get the smoke? If so it could just be condensation because the engine/exhaust is still cold, no big deal.
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Yeah I've never been in on the small car sunday thing so I would never have known. Interested though in the BBQ etc. Nice of you to put this up mate.
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Get someone who know's what they're talking about & get them to stick the gas analyser on it, check the timing etc. Also do a search on the NA thread, your bound to come up with some info there.
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Yep nice untouched 34, would be well worth a look mate. Good to see you're coming back to joint us again drew
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Hi guys, as the title reads I've got these bits for sale, please refer to my post in the for sale section: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2621603 Cheers, Jared
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I wouldn't exactly call the stock R33 suspension optimum, handling is a bit soggy with the stockies on it. I've got 18's on mine (225/40's on the front & 265/35's rear) & it's firmed it up nicely without making it real harsh. It also as a result greatly improved the handling 3 fold because of the better compound tyres, the fact they were wider & lower profile which gave much better cornering response. I do recommed that you go for quality over width & profile though - I was originally going to get 17's but my rims almost literally fell in my lap for a price I just couldn't refuse. A friend of mine upgraded the tyres to some from the originals on his S14 & went from 205's to 225's & the diffence due to the quality & grip was night & day, far more than just what the width increase could account for. If you were sliding like crazy in the wet on 205's then it's probably because either the tyre compound was crap or your hoops were looking rather more like slicks than street tyres. Tyre pressure & suspension type & settings (live rear axle like R31's have isn't exactly the best for grip) also contribute. I have minimal issues with wet weather grip & I don't have the best rubber around on the back either (Hankook K104's, good middle range tyre), would have gone for higher quality again if I had the money at the time. Oh it's my daily too.
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Please excuse my ignorance, who is SCS? Don't really know much about the local scene myself.