J_Red33

I know how infuriating this is. I went out 1 nite down Henley Beach way & left my car parked on the street. While I was gone some wankers felt the need to make a mess of my car by throwing an egg at it. Not only did it leave a mess it also shattered the paint where it hit, & I'd only had it resprayed less than 6 months before. This is now going to be getting fixed up by Doyles' while the car is in there. But I swear if I caught the a#@h@*$s that did it, there'd be broken limbs. Youth have nothing to fear when it comes to consequences so they have no respect, I'd love to show them what it means when someone doesn't respect them........

You may want to take another look at the pictures of my car, it already has GT-R style side skirts on it. The picture you supplied from carmate also has the GT-R pods. I'm personally not so sure I like these with the wrap around finish. They're not bad, just think they're a bit fussy with the wrap around finish. I like nice clean lines, & I'm fussy as hell, which is why I started this thread

Hi everyone. I've been searching for about a week now for some pods for my R33 & the only ones I've come across (on line) that I like are the Type M ones. My biggest dielema is that I don't know if they will sit low enough to achieve the look that I want, as the GT-R skirts I've already got on the car do hang lower than the standard Type M factory units. I've included a couple of picture to show what I mean: The difference in height between the front end and these skirts is fairly minimal & I can't put anything much lower on it without it getting ripped off (very sharp driveway entry), but the back just looks a bit out of proportion as it is. If anyone can help with pictures of how they look on their car or possibly alternatives it would be greatly appreciated. I need to get this soughted out ASAP as need to get my car fixed after I got rear ended last week so am getting the pods done at the same time. EDIT: I have since seen a couple of dodgy pairs that guys locally have been good enough to show me (not fitted) as well as a pair of the Trust GRacer pods, which are a bit bigger & more suitable than the standard Type M ones & do look quite nice. What I need now is a couple of deacent pics of some quality GT-R style (& also if I'm lucky GRacer) ones that people have on their car. One Rear on shot & one low side on shot of anyone's car that has them fitted would be greatly appreciated & will be a good aid to my final decision. There seem to be a few variations on the GT-R style skirts so if you could tell me where you got them from too it would be appreciated. Cheers

There's a trick with this when it comes to using a wider tyre & that is to use a slightly lower air pressure in the tyre. This way the contact patch is expanded sideways while giving roughly the same contact length as the skinnier tyre. Overall you should end up with a lot more surface area. This theory is also very dependant on what kind of profile your tyre has. A lower profile tyre would generally stay a bit rounder than a higher profile one hence drag cars have very high profile tyres on the rear in relation to cars that have to corner too. For 2 tyres of the same rim diameter & sidewall height, I think you will find the difference long ways to be negligable in comparison to the gain you get from going to a wider tyre & wheel when keeping the type of tyre the same.

Yeah one thing I'd never do is throw any of the original bits away, just in case. But after reading this thread - & I was a little bit concerned before I read it anyway - I've been completely put off of fully adjustable arms. The hardest performance workout my car is likely to get is a non-compeditive track day or a street drag meet. I couldn't justify going to adjustable arms for 1 off events like that at the expense of risking chassis damage & I do like a bit of compliance in my ride. As far as I knew if the chassis wasn't originally designed with rose jointed arms in mind - & only very few high performance road cars are - then it should not be done unless its done in combination with extra chassis reinforcement to prevent cracking & it's going to be serviced on a very regular basis.

Interested, but depends if my car is fixed in time, still need to find some pods before it gets fixed

Well I did the right thing last week & stopped at an intersection when ther lights were out instead of risking taking off in front of other oncoming cars & guess what? SMACK hit from behind. The car was only a Mazda 2 with this big softie of a guy behind the wheel, seemed like an alright bloke (after I'd blasted the *&@# out of him), but simply just didn't know how to drive to the conditions. I also saw a middle aged woman in a VN only the week before tailgating a Landcruiser on my way to work. I thought to myself "It's only a matter of time before this stupid woman runs into the back of someone & guess what? Only a few minutes up the road, there was a thud followed by headlight glass & crap flying everywhere around her car, she hit him. I was following just behind with tonnes of room driving as smartly as required when you have a tailgating idiot in front of you. Personally I think we need to come up with a way of making us (as well as other fellow car entusiasts) more credible when it comes to our cars & how well we drive them, because the current system completely fails. They set the poor standard (honestly who here though it was really hard in hindsight to get their lisence?), we need to prove we're well above it.

Yeah the wobbling effect would be to do with the fact that mains power alternates current back & forth only 50 times a second (ie AC 50Hz) so I could see how that would be the case. Ignition is several thousand volts, but it's only generated for the smallest fraction of a second & the voltage would be dramatically lower if you were earthing the coil output due to it's relatively miniscule current capability. Yeah I don't know how many times I got zapped at school, didn't have to get them off of hot water systems though, you could buy the stuff . Well I actually finally looked up on this as have had my ECU out & traced the ignition circuit back to small driver transistors inside, so I knew there was no way it could be directly feeding the coil packs. Not sure that I like the fact the ignitors & coils are combined in 1 package. I may remove my cover just to keep it cooler in the summer. You can use it without the cover on there the loom is too short to move too much. If you were worried you could always use a cable tie to retain it.

Many people have been killed by mains power electricity, don't think anyone has ever been killed by ignition coils however. Sure it'll give you a boot (I've experienced it several times & it can hurt) but because it is relatively LOW current, it won't do any serious damage. If you've ever had a good zap of static electricity it's basically the same thing, high volts minimal current. Mains power however has very high current capability & will kill you if you earth out good enough. Personally I'd rather try holding on to an ignition coil for a minute than ever try touching mains power, would get the heart racing, but that's about all. If all you got was a light zap from mains Cubes you were a very lucky boy. Good to see you've found your problem too

The R33's come with a dual stage boost control solenoid that switches from low to high boost mode at roughly 4500rpm (about the same time the variable inlet cam kicks to advanced setting). It's mounted in front of the passenger side strut tower with 1 hose going off to the intake before the turbo, then another with a t-piece splitting off to go to the wastegate actuator & the intake after the turbo. Why nissan set them up with the dual stage control like this I have no idea, makes the car a lot peakier to drive though. When you get another boost controller you can set it up for the same boost at lower revs. Far more Torquey

Yeah hopefully not for quite some time after this though. It will be the 3rd time in less than 2 years I've had to spend money on the body now. With some pods on there & no ugly egg mark on the quater panel I'll be quite satisfied with the look for a while. Once I've done - a lot more - suspension, engine & interior work I'll then be looking at the body again. If anyone has some suggestions of where I can go to get the pods too it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help so far

This is rather interesting the problem you are having as I was having issues with my revs dropping below normal idle the same way & all I did was change my O2 sensor to fix it. There was no change to how the car ran when it was disconnected, it was completely stuffed. I was also having issues with stalling & had to keep the revs up on take off to stop it dying. The fuel pump low/idle mode also has a part to play here & I do get a little bit of bogging down still at low revs, but I can ride the clutch on a hill with no throttle now, which was previously impossible & the revs no longer drop below normal idle when free reving. I have mine set at about 850. Torque is also greatly improved. Out of curiosity the EL sensor you replaced the original with, was it the same style sensor? That is if you looked at the sensor end that goes into the exhaust did it look exactly the same as the original? I know that different brands have different styles of sensors (Bosch & NTK being the 2 main players), but for the same brand sensor it is imperative that it is the same style sensor, otherwise you can still have issues. Also there is more than one wiring configuration, so just because it's got 3 wires doesn't mean it's the exact same setup.

Well just add a bit of info as far as the power debate goes on this thread. I had my car dyno'd a couple of weeks ago with the South Australia group dyno day. 1 guy with an R33 S2 & just a cat back system got 151KW & was bitterly dissapointed (He was hoping rather optimistically for 165). My system with the split dump & metal cat & stock boost? A whopping 177KW! Admittedly it could only do this once with the stock intercooler as it dropped to a still impressive 170KW on the second run purely from the heat buildup. Everyone with a frontmount got far more consistent readings. The real surprise was the torque curve which was strong from 2500rpm & barely changed until it hit high boost mode. It slowly died off throughout the rev range & once again I think mainly due to the intercooler. All in all very pleased with the result

Damn that sucks, well that only leaves 2 things for you. Coils or wiring. Don't you hate it when the last thing you change turns out to be the problem.

Hey didn't see your post. Yes I do get choice of repairer, but did want to see who was on their list too. They actually have listed a repairer that's literally across the road from them, & I found out today that the receptionist is the mother of 1 of the guys at work. Still think I'll use Doyle's though, by the sounds of it if they can't fix it no one can

If your running the stock ECU, just over 7000 rpm is the rev limiter. It won't go any further.

Never mind didn't see the second page of this post

By him I mean Mike Doyle (refer to NissKid's previous post) & yes what I am after is the small bit of body cladding that you put on behind the rear guards to follow on from the side skirts. Looks a bit funny at the moment with the skirts only, rear corners are way too high & rounded.

No worries. Not saying its a guranteed fix (but then what is), but since you've done nearly everything else it's more than worth the small amount of effort to try it. Let us know how it goes. Didn't actually take notice the swear word before, just threw in a few extra lines of the story, thought that was a good quote

I do like number 1 for the SKYLINE font style, but then 3 with the SAU logo looks that bit more subtle in a way. This would be the only sticker that goes on my car

Interesting that you mention the crank angle sensor hasn't been changed Cubes, I'd suggest you get a lend of one to give it a try. The Mitsubishi optical crank angle sensors that skylines use (all the way back to the R31's as well as being used in Z32's, Lancers', Pajeros', Magna etc) are known to go faulty from time to time. I used to rebuild dozens of them (specialist job, don't try it yourself) & they most commonly failed under heat. The other interesting thing too was that some times when they failed under heat (we performed testing with a heat gun & an oscilloscope on a special test bench), they would actually loose signal at low rpm rather than high rpm, or with higher engine speed the ECU could process out the errors & figure out what exactly the engine was doing depending on how bad the signal was. There were other conditions they could fail under too (dust masking the optical sensors was always a good 1) & it could sometimes be dependant on the specific engine management they used. This would also be a strong suggestion for you too nath95, they're not hard to swap over & all you need is a screwdriver/spanner & a timing light to double check the setting & your away. Would know if it's the problem as sessions end.

Well I've been to visit him today & that place is just Nissan central. Only a little joint, but sometimes I think thats a good thing. No big corporation dollar bill syndrome (I know that too well). I don't know that he was on the list, but I don't have to go with who shannons recommend anyway. Mike checked out my car & he appreciated the condition it was in (looking through the dirt it had on it from some really crappy rain) & he also gave me a deacent price for respraying my egged panel. Now I need to find some pods. Any suggestions will be appreciated

Talk about a bunch of pricks. Sorry to hear that mate. I'd offer you spare parts but they're all still on the car.... Not many mods on mine yet, keep having to spend money on body work . I dunno about anyone else, but I think this is starting to get beyond the joke, something has to be done to stop these bastards in their tracks. We need cops that stop crime instead of discriminantely fleecing certain members of the public & making them out to be the crims instead. Regency's become just another gold mine like speed cameras to fill the government coffers rather than keeping genuinely dangerous/unsafe vehicles off the road & it's just plain irresponsible that they're turning a blind eye to all the over polluting rust buckets on the road to make quick cash from vehicles they know will see the light of day again.

If I had a Picaso of yours mate it'd travel 1st class in the back seat Soon as I get my crash repairer & some pods soughted out I'll be getting it fixed ASAP, won't have the egg mark those wankers down at Henley Beach made not long after I got it resprayed too

Yeah I went to the trouble with my last crashie of going out the other side of town only to get a botched job done. They shall remain nameless unless someone starts talking them up. Been on the NS website as NissKid suggested & yes there were pleanty of recommendations for Doyle crash. Gonna verify if they are listed tomorrow. Thanks for the other suggestions though appreciated