J_Red33

Well I had a Dyno run last weekend & thought it was time to change a couple of parts. So I did the fuel filter & the O2 sensor, since this was a couple of parts that were due to be changed. Now to my surprise, my problem is 90% fixed, with minimal issues now with stalling on takeoff. I can now ride the clutch on a hill with & even take off with no throttle if I ease the clutch out slowly. It still wants to bog down just a tad if I release the clutch a bit quick, but it is sooo much better . The main reason I'm surprised is that when I tried disconnecting the O2 sensor the way the engine operated didn't change. This probably in hindsight meant the sensor was completely dead however. I don't know if the fuel pump fix will have any influence now, but I'm still going to try it once I find the controller etc. Will post up what happens.

Thanks Will for organising the day so well, couldn't have gone any smoother. I'm personally very pleased with my own result too , sorry to see a few others that were dissapointed by theirs. It did show up the need for a front mount on my car too since it dropped 7KW on the second run, & that they didn't indicate I had any fuel delivery issues was good to know too. $25 well spent IMO

Hi everyone, I've reacently read up on different issues with stalling & so on & believe I've stumbled across my problem being to do with the fuel pump control module (or FPCM) or the dropping resistor that's also in the circuit. But what I want to know, so I don't have to go pulling my amp out & stuff for nothing (went to do it today, it's gonna be a moungrel) is where are these components located? I want to actually fix this problem properly as opposed to just doing the old earth the pump wire. Once I've established it's location I plan on coming up with a mod to prevent the stall on take off issue that it causes, so if anyone can tell me & maybe provide pics it will be much appreciated. Cheers

Hello everyone, well after reading through the dozen pages so far, I think I've determined my issue to be the fuel pump from what people have said. I have an R33 GTS-T S2 with a 3 inch system being the only engine mod. Before coming to this conclusion I have fixed all air leaks on intake & exhaust, cleaned my afm, changed my boost control back to stock, cleaned the AAC valve & redone my base idle. I have the idle set to about 850-900 rpm at the moment so to help combat the problem. The idle itself is nice & smooth with no variation, something that was a problem before fixing the air leaks. My main issue is now is that if I try to just ride the clutch or take off without at least 1500 rpm on the dial the car stalls very easy. Once moving I goes just as fast & hard as it should. Also if I rev the car while stationary it sometimes drops to as low as 400 rpm after lifting off, before coming back up to normal idle. This leads me to believe that the Dropping resistor NOT the Fuel pump control module is the main issue as this resistor is what the pump earths through at idle. Once you are on the move then the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) then takes over by giving the pump a stronger earth feed. What I want to know though, as it hasn't been mentioned anywhere including here that I have looked, is where the hell are the FPCM & Dropping resistor located? Personally I'd rather maintain the the proper pump control setup rather than just chop the pump earth & ground it directly. This solution is perfectly fine, but I'm a fussy bugger & want to to the job properly. If anyone can tell me I'll post up a proper mod once I've found a deacent solution. Cheers

Even faster way is to use a dremel. Did this several times for customers so they'd fit. Gone in a minute flat!

My birthday on sunday. So guess what I'm doing saturday nite too....... Wouldv'e loved to come, will try & make the next one, sorry.

That's just absolutely s**t. The Cops are getting too big for their boots & don't know when to back off. I don't know how they expect the Import scene to give them any sought of credit or respect when they continue to pull stunts like this. And the Import scene is a growing one.....

Doesn't sound like much of a problem, but it's a pain in the butt if you are trying to make a list. I hit enter once like I just did then & I get a double space in between instead of nothing. If I do it on fast reply it's no problem. This is hitting enter twice. 4 line spaces between paragraphs is a bit large & can make some posts rather long.

Hi I dunno if I'm the only one having this problem, but as the title says if I go to subscribe to a topic so I can find it easy later it no longer comes up on my list of topics. If I find the topic though & reattempt to subscribe I get an error message saying that I've already subscribed to the topic. It seems the info is being logged, but not where it can be accessed for the list. I have tried deleting old topics listed, just in case I had too many, but still have the same issue. Please help I find this tool very useful.

Nope not just you. I have the same problem

I dunno why they didn't just put the same size vent on the drivers side. With an oil cooler in there & it's usefull then anyway

Yeah a Triton sounds more appropriate. Sound like something more for a Patrols Australia Club Rough/Dirt roads, no premium & $300 just to get across = no go for me. If I had an older skyline or something as a workhorse I'd consider taking that over.

Have definantely paid my deposit as previously noted

Yeah it won't creap with the stock dump, that thing is sooo restrictive. My new dump is a BATMBL one also, but it's still not going higher than about 9 psi when I push it all the way to the limiter (2nd or 3rd gear). I'm only going by the stock gauge mind you, but the power delivery is much smoother without any spike what so ever by seat of the pants. I could always tell with the ball & spring controller if it spiked. I don't have a FMIC like you either though so that could be the difference. Hopefully the new dump flows the wastegate better.

Have the suggested ideas (like them or not) on here as well as a few of my own. Starting to get a deacent list

I'll be surprised if it helps you to be honest. If you couldn't keep the boost down directly connecting the actuator without any boost controller, fitting the solonoid isn't going to do jack I'm sorry to say. It really does sound to me like your wastegate just can't flow enough air. 200 RWKW doesn't sound too much, but then my friend is having similar issues on his S14 with a little less power. Similar size turbo too.

Well I fixed my boost creap. Reconnected the standard boost solonoid yesterday & now I get an absolute max of 9 pound when wringing it's neck. Much smoother, just not terribly torquey in the mid range with the dual stage boost setup. High mode conversion or EBC coming up for me. Unfortunantely it doesn't help you guys. I take it you guys are running FMIC's as well? I've also got a friend with an S14 who's experiencing similar issues since he put a Trust front mount on his. His solution (though not really fixing the problem) was to fit a baffle in the exhaust to prevent the turbo spooling so hard. Sounds like a wastegate air flow issue to me too, what kind of RWKW's are you guys making?

It would depend on the plenum used. If the plenum intake isn't located in roughly the same spot, then the GTR kit just became useless without mods anyway. GTR plenum is different in that it doesn't have the throttle body bolted onto the front of it too. May change things a bit as far as length is concerned.

My thoughts exactly, just wasn't sure what bit you were confused about

Yeah like I said I don't know what they work like I've just seen what they look like. This is early days for me on the research side of intercoolers for R33's. Just to clarify what I mean with the piping (& I am only going by memory from when I saw one ages ago in a shop), I think the right hand end tank actually has it's outlet facing left (ie elbowed around) for the pipe going to return through the original cutout & up to the intake plenum the same as the original SMIC. If this is so it is no good for if the intake plenum in changed for one that the inlet points to the front of the car rather than back across to the left hand side of the engine bay. The intercooler pipe then has to come through the right hand side just like the hybrid kits etc but no longer has to travel across to the other side of the engine bay again as this is right near the plenum inlet (ie similar setup to what a GTR has standard). For this setup the pipe work would then need a second elbow from the right tank so it heads the correct way, not really ideal. Now I've said all this I'm gonna go check it out & will probably find I'm wrong but anyway, hope that makes it a bit clearer.

Had the dump fitted today & the boost went into the stratosphere. Hit boost cut on only part throttle. Turned the boost adjuster down but still got to 13 pound. Going to have to convert it back to the standard bleed valve tomorrow & see how it goes from there. It was worth noting though that the spiking has settled down which was kinda interesting. Have only driven it for about 20 kays so far (& only half of that once the boost was turned down), but it does seem smoother.

Hmm well I'm getting more & more put off by the hybrid kit & liking the sound of a Greddy or even custom setup. Just curious though, if the Hybrid intercooler isn't a tube & fin cooler, what the hell is it? Some sought of in between moungrel thing? The Blitz system doesn't require cutting a hole as it has a return pipe to the original SMIC feed pipes. Fairly smart setup but you pay for it & I believe if you want to go for the front facing plenem like I eventually intend to do (probably in like 2 or 3 years) then you have to change the cooler again too. However from memory the standard plenum is good for up to 300RWKW so if you have no intention of going over this kind of power it would be a good choice from an asthetic point of view. Don't know what they flow like though.

I've got this kind of problem too. My dump gets swapped over tomorrow as the wastegate pipe on mine is cracked, nearly stalls too due to lack of back pressure when u give it a quick rev in neutral & when taking off. I'll let everyone know how it goes. I've also got a ball & spring control valve so that may be the cause of it yet. Need to get a deacent EBC too.

One other thing I did forget to mention. I don't want to be chopping the crap out of my front structural beam either. After witnessing a rather horrific crash involving another 33 I want to be sure I have every mm of that sucker in front of me. Thanks for the info EXAUNV

Naah sorry mate. They're denso just like all other Mazda stuff & what carl says about them is quite true. A cheap high flow injector, not necessarily a good one. It's also important how injectors flow at low duty cycles (ie how they flow when using minimal fuel at idle or cruising) You will have a lot more trouble getting your car to idle nicely if the flow for short on times varys quite a lot. Cleaning them does help for sure, most injectors genrally pull up better after a deacent clean, though certain types like later model Jecs injectors the difference was barely nocticable cos they were so good in the first place! It also depends on exactly what model injectors you are running. I'm digging more of this out of my head each time I read this & I do remember testing a handfull of newer type rx-7 ones that were a lot better, but not outstanding.