J_Red33

Yeah I saw a 33 with Kakimoto on it 1 day (noted earlier in this thread) & it was really bassy at idle, but seemed to be dead quiet (too quiet) once on the move. For me your comments justify going custom as you are going to spend more money customising it anyway. Be very carefull what you do when modifying your system, take your time in deciding. Talk to a couple of installers & tell them exactly what you are looking for. I have a feeling from what you've said to go from a full-on centre muffler to just a resonator may be a bit too much, but this also depends on how much of an effect your rear muffler is having. Won't be easy. As for going to 3.5 inch, I couldn't justify the extra cost of it. I have a friend (who also has been on here from time to time) who has modified his RB to the point that it's putting out 450KW at the wheels & it still only runs a 3 inch system, mufflers & all. For me that kind of grunt is still a very long way off. If you're making a race car maybe it's worth going bigger, but for most people 3 inch on the street is pleanty.

Are you having the most problems when you floor it from either low revs or when it's on max boost? These situations will place the greatest load on your ignition system. So if it has trouble then, you may have weak spark due to a faulty ignitor or coil packs shorting out.

Oh yeah it fire's now, when the other it's got (intermittent power loss that I'm trying to figure out, maybe a air leak) isn't causing trouble. I did say before that it doesn't seem to have as much trouble reaching the rev limiter, but let me rephrase that; It loves the rev limiter . The top end is that much stronger now that I think the thing has at least another 500 revs to go before a gearchange when it hits it. Given the mechanical mods to be able to cope with higher revs the engine would do it and more without any trouble at all. No the didn't have to alter it, but they had to be very carefull when they bolted it up that it stayed as low as it needed to be to clear the underbody of the car. It would be a problem if it did touch the body of the car as the exhaust would bang & clang with chassis, engine movement, & bumps on the road & would drive you mad quite quickly. My cat back system is custom made with a Magnaflow Stainless steel centre muffler, JunBL Stainless Steel twin outlet rear muffler & all stainless piping. Sometimes to get what you really want it's what you have to do. If you don't like the sound of a bolt on, you can't just take it back to be fixed like I did when I had the system fitted without the centre muffler first time. It probably did cost more but was worth it

Hey guys, I've finally gotten around to posting up a couple of pics of my system. As far as the performance is concerned I can't really say how much of a difference it's really made at the moment as I now have a vacuum leak somewhere, but the improvement was substatial. I've gotten a chance to really get used to the way the system sounds now (my hearing has returned ) & I'm really happy with it. It's a fairly quiet cruiser now & you can listen to music without it overpowering it, but if you want to give it a bit of stick, you know it's there The magnaflow muffler was worth every cent. The tips on the system probably stick out a bit further than I wanted & the muffler was set on a 'slight' angle (mainly for optimum flow) but it looks good & is that bit more unique for it. Fitment of it is rigid as since they used every 1 of the original mounting rubbers that is in they system, nice & high too. Have a couple more pics I may post up soon

It could be an intermittent leak like mine is suffering from, seems to be quite variable when it happens for me. As for the climate control I can't see that having any effect as you're using the heater & not the A/C on a cold night. I'm sure they would have changed the oil when it was complied but maybe not the filter. Mine still had a genuine Nissan oil filter on it when I got mine. I doubt the guys compliancing the thing would have used one of these due to the extra cost, unless it has to be a genuine part under the rules, I'm not sure. I use a Ryco filter myself & I couldn't see them using anything better than that just to get it on the road. Also DON'T wait another 10,000 kays to change your oil, it should be done every 5,000 if it's a turbo. I do oil & filter every time. I made the mistake of leaving the same filter in for 10,000 kays before & the lifters started making noise on startup due to the oil filter choking the system. Ran ok, but I wouldn't let it go that long again.

Wide tyres will always give you a bit of tramlining unfortunantely. Even after having a wheel alignment that was almost perfect on my 33 which has still got less than 50 k showing it still does it. Others I've spoken to who have put wider wheels & tyres on their car have all said the same thing. Just 1 of those things that wide tyres does

Yeah that wouldn't be an easy decision. Look at it this way, if you plan on hotting the car up anyway it's probably better if you get the rebuild done & then you don't have to worry about the car being off the road again in the future for the same thing. The other option I would have thought would be for him to rebuild another engine & stick that straight in for you. Though if he's got to bring the engine in from somewhere he may be stuck with an engine he doesn't need. What happens to your engine you have now if he swaps it? Because if he keeps it there's no reason he couldn't do this.

Yeah the lumpy idle will be most noticeable when it's warm as that's when it idles it's slowest. Mine was dead stock when I got it too & I had the same problem. 1 problem I had was the boost sensor hose was leaking, which was causing it to play up. I've now got some thick reinforced fuel hose on there so there's no chance of it being my problem this time. I have to do a serious check of all the hoses soon. As for the ticking noise there's a good chance it's your hydralic lifters you can hear. Has the car had the oil & oil filter changed reacently? If not do this as soon as you can first, good chance it'll cure the problem.

Damn that's no good mate. Well I seriously doubt that's my problem thankfully as my car hasn't overheated . I'm looking at the intake instead. Try the fix first, you've got nothing to loose apart from a few hours having a go at it. It will be a band-aid though to getting them actually replaced, but at least you'll know if it is your problem.

Yeah it's a throttle position sensor. I'm betting ur car's a series 1 R33. The manuals in a series 1 didn't use the sensor, but the auto's would. Series 2 used the TPS on manuals as well but it's a 2 plug setup instead of a single. Nothing to worry about mate

I'm interested in as many of the boot trim bits as I can get. Mine have been butchered by installers & panel beaters. I'll take off you whatever you got left mate.

Hey I'm interested, may ask a friend or 2 if they want to come along. Will let you know

Hey Drew, great to see you're doing well mate. I think it's great that you're staying positive about things, best way to be. The BBQ Idea sound's like a goodie, will be great to see you out and about again along with everyone else. Take care in the meantime mate.

I'll be doing mine in a couple days too. I've been suspecting I've got a vacuum leak, but I'm going to be doing this first as I think it may need it. If I'm lucky this may be all my problem is.

Hey I think I may have a similar problem with my car. I found 1 Vacuum lead from my boost sensor line, but since then I've noticed I've still got a problem. Though not as bad now. I also have trouble with mine starting from dead cold but not all the time. It stutters when it first fires up, before reving right up as normal, but then it's also easy to stall if you don't give it a few revs on takeoff. My boost pressure also seems to be a bit variable too. I've got more than a sneaking suspician that I have an intermittent vacuum leak. I had it happen 1 day I was looking at the boost gauge & the vacuum level dropped but suddenly but the car almost stalled. I proded the throttle momentarily & then it came good again. When this is happening the AFM is not reading as much airflow as it should & so the ECU then cuts back fuel, hence the bugger nearly stalls. Very frustrating, there is so many things that hang off that intake plenum it's not going to be easy to find what's causing it.

Hmm I'd say it's only the basic engine (ie block & head) that's been changed mate. Most of the electronics on the R33's I think you'll find were upgraded. Critical things like fuel injectors & stuff are completely different too. R32's use low impedance (only a couple ohms when measured by multimeter) Top-feed injectors with ballast resistors, where as the R33 I believe has side/body feed injectors just like R33 GTS-T's & are more like 12.5 ohms & I think have slightly different flow rates. Also the engine management system is not likely to be anything near the same. All the surrounding components of the engine can easily be removed from 1 engine & then placed on another & I'd say that's what's happend with your car, unless they've upgraded everything else too, which would be a big job. Mechanically I don't think they're a lot different if at all.

No mate read again: VN not VL, it doesn't even have a Nissan donk in the thing! Yeah I suppose so if I resorted to putting a NIZMO sticker on the back of a commodore, they could at least get an R31......

I'm an electronics technican myself too, but I also used to do work that specialised in EFI & Ignition systems for 2 years as well as other stuff. I tested & fixed literally hundreds of ignition systems & engine computers injectors etc. I don't have all the equipment to do all the work myself & admittedly most of this work was done off of the car, but I do have a good handle on the spanner work, do all my own servicing & have fixed friends cars on several occasions. My car hasn't seen a service centre since I bought it a year & a half ago. I can do a lot of diagnosis work which I could do at a fraction of the cost that an Auto Electrican would charge & can probably sorce some parts at a decent price too. Auto electricans & mechanics would come to us, buy something or get something fixed & put their cut on before selling it to the customer & half the time we figured out the problem for them over the phone!!! Advice on here I'll do for zip provided it doesn't get too complex

Personally I wouldn't even put a Skyline GT-R badge on my GTS-T even if it had the mumbo to match. If it's not a GT-R it's not a GT-R. If you reckon that's bad though hear this 1: I've seen a guy who has a light metallic green VN Commodore down around O'Hallaran Hill way several times & he's got on the back windscreen a reflective NIZMO sicker. Now there's absolutely no doubt what manufacturer this belongs to & it has absolutely no place on a frigging common door!

Yeah that sure sounds a bit rediculous. Try this mob EXTENSIVE WHEEL SERVICES 307 South Rd Mile End 5031 (08) 8352 5777 I had both my front rims scraped & it cost $88 each to get them both polished back, though they're not a deep dish. I wouldn't think it'd cost a hell of a lot more to do yours, give them a go. They did a great job, would never know they were ever near a kerb. Also try Adelaide Wheel & Rim just accross the road from them. I had 1 of mine fixed under insurance & extensive was the place they sent me to. So I don't know what these guys are like.

This sounds interesting, hopefully we'll have no dramas on this 1. I'd like a PM too please

Mine is fairly simple really. I studied electronics engineering at TAFE & have worked as an Electronics technician since. I used to test & service/repair iginition systems, fuel injectors & engine management computers etc. I couldn't think of anything else & I thought a name like that was kinda appropriate for on here.

That's strange because I clearly remember looking at the road where it happend & seeing it the other way around. If what you say is correct, this is absolutely crazy road design. They should lock up whoever allowed that to happen.