J_Red33

Hmmm looks like there needs to be a few rules set when, coming up with ideas for a cruise. There could have feasably been about 2 or 3 cruises done in the time it's taking to plan 1 simply because people cannot turn up, or a bad date for a cruise is picked. I'm not saying this to upset anyone, just a suggestion that maybe this needs to be looked at, that way maybe we can get out & have fun more often . Personally any weekend is good for me at the moment, so I say this in the best interest of everyone not just me.

Well time for an update. I've finally got my Split dump & cat from BATMBL & I went in to see the guys at Exhaust Technology yesterday. After chatting to the main man Mark he gave me a quote for full stainless catback & this time I was quoted $1080! Unsure why he quoted me so much less than what his missus did last time I went in there, but without too much hesitation I've booked it in for this Friday . Muffler will be a twin pipe JUN BL with tips made to suit my taste. Will post more info about how it goes & a couple of pics too.

I'm up for it guys, getting my exhaust fitted next Friday so it'll be a good opportunity to test it out . Mother's day's no problem, all happens at breakfast & maybe dinner at my place . Been on that road to Strathalbyn once at night & I have to say it's one of the best country roads we have around Adelaide so I'd be more than happy to go there again. Look forward to meeting a few of you guys.

Thanks for that mate, will look into it. Wanna get a system pretty soon so sounds like a very good place to start. Top installers should have good connections cheers.

Hey guys, I'm after a deacent installer of a good system in Adelaide. Any suggestions as to where I can go? I've heard Tisonics, Ming & Complete Car Audio are meant to be really good, but would like some other opinions on these guys & possible alternatives. Cheers

I'll have to back you up on that 1 AzzurrA, I reckon what they've said is a bit of BS. Think about it for a moment Mr G. When you originally took your stock wheels off & replaced them with your aftermarket alloys did you have problems with vibration on them? Because if not & you all of a sudden have vibration problems with them when you put them back on, it's not going to be the wheels or the tyres. Put a big fat black line through that possibility right now. There is a lot more to your car than wheels or tyres mate & if the problem is exactly the same with 2 sets of wheels, I doubt a 3rd set will yield a different result.... unless you've broken a mirror reacently or something I've been looking seriously at getting some aftermarket bushes for my car for a little while as I have noticed a bit of a clunk from the front end when reversing then braking. I had a friend look underneath at the radial arms/castor rods & he reckoned there was a bit of movement. I've also had my stockies back on the front this week as my rims were getting a bit of work & guess what? I still have noticed a subtle but noticeable vibration when cornering, so I think it's going to be a high priority for me to get some new bushes very soon. Also mate did you actually get the wheel alignment done? I haven't noticed you say anything about it. I need to do this myself too & am going to be doing it monday at the latest to see if it helps. Otherwise bushes for me. I think you'll find your looking at a suspension issue not a wheel issue mate, you may even have more than 1 bush on the way out. I think putting larger aftermarket wheels on the car is actually placing more stress on the the suspension too (due to the lower profile tyre having less damping effect), which is another reason to get stronger more resilient bushes. It'd be nice in a way if you were right & it is the wheels, but I doubt it.

Your wheel hub is a ring at the centre of your rotor that usually sicks out at least 8-10mm. The wheel when you look on the back has a hole that should be the same size, this is your locator. When you put a wheel on the car it should sit on the hub via this locator so it's nice & central. I have had this problem myself with my own set of 18's, I had 1 wheel that was slightly out of balace & no matter how many times I did the wheel back up, over time it would slowly work its way back loose again & start to shake. You also find that you have to work your way around the wheel very slowly, doing each nut up a bit at a time so that it centres properly & that they are fully done up, if you don't do this they can shake instantly, or even bob up & down!! I had already intended on getting a set of reducers for the hub locators made from the moment I bought the wheels (it was a moment of opportunity sale only noticed the problem later on when I put them on, still a good buy). I went a mob out the north of town called Galpro (or Galaxy Products) & he'd done loads of them for the same reason, BMW's were apparently the worst for this problem. He made 4 CNC machined, marine grade aluminuim locators for me for about $260, & they were worth every cent. Not only did they cure the problem once I fitted them, they looked fantastic too. Also putting them on is not longer a drama, it just pops straight on, dead centre & it only takes 2 or 3 bites max on each nut & it stays there, just like it should. Believe me guys you may not want to spend the money on them, but it's definantely worth it. Having said all of this I think a few of you guys missed something in the fact that Mr G put his original wheels back on & it still had the same problem. Just about all factory wheels have the right size hub locators, especially Jap cars, & Nissan is no exeption. JimX: Your axle theory has a fair bit of thought put into it, but unfortunantely has a few flaws. For a start most modern cars don't have axles, but they do have drive shafts. The problem with this is that the drive shaft has absolutely no lateral loading placed on it. All lateral load is transferred to the suspension system of the vehicle, the drive shaft simply slots into the middle of the hub & knuckle assembly which the wheel is attached to & has CV joints to prevent any lateral load occurring. So to going by what's been said, to me if it's not a wheel bearing, it's most likely going to be suspension related, like the other guys have said.

Rotors don't normally cause any trouble unless ur braking, although we are talking commodores here MrG, I'd try just putting the car up on the stands & try grabbing & moving all 4 wheels up & side to side to see if they have any movement in them if they do move, you know you've most likely got a stuffed bearing. It could be a rear wheel too which would not transmit to the steering until you are going a fair speed. Try this first only takes 10 minutes & a bit of effort to find out.

Could be a buggered wheel bearing mate, I've had bearings go on other cars I've had fail & it causes similar problems.

Yeah sorry mate, but at least you don't need to go through all the crap of trying so hard to find 1 you could cry . By the way I doubt you'll find a second hand twin Fuji since as MintR33 indicated they are very rare. Not unless someone happens to be upgrading to a 3.5 inch system that has 1. Sorry again. I'm going to be getting a custom 3 inch system with JunBL Muffler & custom tips, will show you what it looks like when it's done. Will probably be a couple of weeks.

Yeah I had heard that they had made 1, but couldn't confirm it.......... bastards! Well it's cost them a sale cos I would have bought one of those, that looks just nice. Is it twin 3 inch?

Naah you should use something better than contact cleaner, especially if it's really gunked up. Go to an auto shop & get urself a can of throttle body/carburettor cleaner, that stuff eats grease carbon & oil like it's going out of fashion. Costs about 5 to 10 dollars I think. You can use it to clean ur entire intake if you really want to with it & it won't harm ur engine if you spray a bit down it (that's what it is meant for after all). Hope you haven't been running your car too hard cos if ur afm is dirty it'll be running lean as hell, bad news for turbos & engines.

Hey how are you, I've been looking for the same thing for quite a while, & as far as jap bolt on's are concerned there is stuff all available. There is an Apexi 1 that nengun sells I believe as stated above but it's only got a 2.5 inch inlet. Kakimoto did make one, but it's discontinued much to my dissapointment. The only other alternative I know of is Reinhard, but they're meant to be 95 dB according to 1 place that sells it even when they are silenced!! If you really want a twin tip muffler that's not too loud however, go and get a custom system, I'm about to be doing the same myself as I've been searching for several months & apart from what I have mentioned have found nothing. So I wouldn't spend too much time searching if I were you.

Hey guys I'm fairly new on the scene, but if your looking for some extras to bump up the numbers I'd be interested. I'll probably end up laughing at the people that get freaked out (if things do get really scary) But is sounds like fun too. Not a real believer in Ghosts, can normally find a logical explanation for this stuff if you look hard enough.

Warren Wilson's is probably the best Auto elec in the south that I know of, didn't deal with as many in the south due to our location, but Rod Webbs is a fairly good 1 too. There was 1 or 2 others but their name is lost in my memory. Hope that helps

If you want the absolute best in the north Geoff from Redmont's is the go. He's the best auto elec I know of in town. I used to work for Petro-Ject doing all the EFI gear for the trade & I have to say he knew his stuff. Having said that, alternator trouble shouldn't be too difficult to fix & most half deacent auto elec's should have that licked with ease.

Hi guys, just curious, what kind of exhaust systems are you running? And are you getting these figures with a stock intercooler too? I'm surprised its that high a power gain with those mods.

Hey guys, I'm interested to know, what kind of power are you all looking at putting out with a 3.5 to 4 inch system?? I'm only looking at putting a 3 inch on my 33 GTS-T at the moment as it'll be the car's first major mod, but I am looking to eventually have 300 to 400 rwKW's once I've spent a lot more elsewhere. I am interested to know as I'm not sure whether to got a cheaper bolt on system for now & then buy a custom 3.5 inch one later when I'm ready. Otherwise if all I need for this kind of power is a 3 inch system, I'll go custom now. Any input would be appreciated. Cheers

Ok I'm at the point now where I seriously think I may go a custom system provided I'm happy with what the guys at Exhaust Technology say when I talk to them again. But I do have 1 major dielema....... While I may only need a 3 inch system now, I may at some stage - once I've modded most of the engine & intake - want to upgrade my turbo to something a bit beefier than standard. Keeping in mind that this will remain a road car for the forseeable future (short of me winning lottery so I can afford to risk racing it, and in which case money is no object) I am unsure how big a turbo upgrade you would have to go to before requiring a 3.5 inch system. In reality I'm probably not going to do this for a few years yet, but I don't really want to shell out the extra dough on a custom system now if I am only going to change it in a few years. I would only be upgrading the turbo to something a bit bigger like a Garrett 30/40 or something or whatever you need for about 300 to 400 at the wheels. From what I know you still only need a 3 inch for this kind of power, but I'll be checking elsewhere on this site & on the net to make sure. Any additional input would be appreciated. Thanks for all the help so far guys.

Oil servicing is more dependant on the type and condition of the car (or more specifically the engine) than the type of oil that's stuck in the thing. It may start off as a better oil, but none of them will magically hold their original properties for 10,000 klicks more than another oil. I'd say maybe at best you may squeeze an extra 1000 kays out of the better oil simply because it (allegedly) starts off as a higher grade of oil. All oil gets carbon deposits and other contaminants that the engine produces in it just as fast, & this more than anything is why it needs changing regularly anyway. I haven't heard of Royal Purple myself, I'm dreading what you're spending on the stuff!!

Hey mate, I want to do a bit of suspension work to my car but on a light budget, I've notice that my castor rod bushes on the front are a bit rooted & I can't lower my car from standard (nope not even a centimeter). The shocks are still pretty good at the moment (car's done only 45,000 kms mainly at low speed in cityscape Japan), so I'm thinking I should invest in some deacent bushes for my entire suspension (or the most important bits at least). Would you be able to quote me with some costings for these parts? Also I've heard that you can get bushes for castor adjustment, which is meant to be perfectly legal as opposed to adjustable castor rods, do Whiteline sell these too?

If that's how loud the Reinhards are forget it, I don't need the rozzers pulling me over & defecting me 5 seconds after fitting the friggen thing! Yeah the Kakimoto does sound alright, maybe a bit too quiet though. Having said that I don't know if it is the exact same system I saw/heard. It looked like it had been on the car for a while. To add to that I saw another 33 today on my way home from work this time with the Apexi N1 fitted, it sounded really nice. A little louder than the Kakimoto & a bit sweeter sounding I think, but the angle look is a shocker, although the way it fitted with the disgusting looking (in my opinion anyway) Veilside bodykit may have had something to do with it. Yeah I dunno about having a 5 inch tip hanging out the back of my car either, I'd rather have two 3 to 3.5 inch tips instead, but that'll cost me about $1600 for a custom stainless system as that seems the only way of getting 1 at the moment. I don't mind the single pipe type outlets, but you loose one of the Nissan trademarks by getting rid of it (only cheap shit nissans have a single pipe from the factory). Custom system is getting more likely by the day

Yeah I'm thinking if 1 says below 90 & another says 95 it must be at least somewhere in between. I kinda put off now, plus I don't really like the look of the baffles myself on closer inspection. To add to that I saw a series 1 33 today with a Kakimoto exhaust (could tell from the badge on the tip) & it was a really quiet system (prehaps a little too quiet). He pulled up at a set of lights where I happend to be walking, so I hung around for a minute to hear him take off, no problems with noise there.

Yeah it sounds like a gun system, I'm seriously interested in it. Didn't realise they were removeable baffles, thought they were fixed. Ivan quoted me approximately $75 to have it sent to me from Queensland to here in Adelaide, which is pretty good really. I'm up in the air now between 1 of these, a custom system or forgetting the twin setup & going something like a Fujitsubo or Kakimoto single pipe. The thing I like about the custom system is that I can have it tailored how I want it & they use really good quality JunBL twin mufflers at Exhaust technology & I can have the tips customised to the way I want them, what I don't like is the extrordiany cost of the bloody thing! I may see if I can get a couple of pics of the Reinhard system & just query how far it sticks out the back too, just to get an idea how it looks.

I'm using Motul Turbolight 4100 ATM in my 33 (same engine) but am going to start using Elf's 10W-50 full synthetic oil. A friend of mine changed his 200SX over to the stuff from the motul & he won't go back. Not much dearer than the 4100 which is only a semi-synthetic, but well worth the little extra. 15000 Km's is a bit far for 1 lot of oil on a turbo car, you should always change your oil at 5000 km if u want your turbo to last a reasonable amount of time, not to mention protecting hydraulic lifters & the variable valve timing gear amoungst other things too.