J_Red33

Well I was going to start a thread as I was a bit suspect that a POD was worth shite apart from another $100 or so out my pocket & a lot of noise. I've been thinking of going a Blitz dry type panel filter as the K&N oil filters will require you to clean your AFM on a regular basis (unless you go to an aftermarket ECU & replace it with a MAP sensor). Don't really want the extra hassle or risk of it running lean.

Good to see you guys responding: Wink: I haven't actually found anyone who sells fugistsubo, though i have tried. Any ideas on where I could possibly get 1 from & how are they as far as cost quality & fitment is concerned? I have heard they're meant to be a top notch system PhatR32: Yeah I've just found one Apexi exhaust that may be worth having on Nengun. First 1 I've seen that's got bigger than 2.5 inch inlet Pretty cheap too for some reason. Nuffsaid: Pretty interesting to read that you only got a 15 rwkw power gain. What Cat & cat back exhaust system did you use exactly? was it 3 inch? I ask this because it is still pretty critical that these parts of the system work as well as the dump. U can have the best dump in the world, but if the rest isn't up to par it won't get the gain u expect. It may also be that the RB25 in a R34 is a development of the 33 engine & their exhaust may already be a better flowing system.

Well I'll be changing my filter every 5000 klicks with the oil myself, I don't really think there's any point in doing it more often than that. If a filter can't last as long as the regular factory service intervals there's something seriously wrong with your engine already. The majority of crap will build up in the latter half of the 5000 kays anyway when the oil starts to deteriorate. No worries savage, glad to help.

Just make sure u get some deacent tyres. My 33 came with some crappy Woosong (or something like that) 205 tyres that had stuff all grip, 2nd gearies in the dry no worries...... & 3rd in the wet. I went to go around a corner 1 day in 3rd doing less than 1500 revs where it's got next to no power & the thing still let go on me big time. Since I put my fat 275 yokahamas on the rear I have next to no trouble with wet weather grip. If your worried, get a decent set of hoops, u don't have to necessarily upgrade the width, just the quality. Stuff getting an auto

Yeah I'd really like a twin pipe muffler, but I've been tempted to go the Trust system just on price alone. I'll be interested to see if anyone has much to say about exhaust technology since it is nearly double the cost, though they're meant to have a big reputation. I'm not completely sure about CES myself to be honest. After seeing how their split dump was designed I'd be sceptical about buying anything off of them. I think they're meant to be pretty expensive too Yeah I'd checked out his thread b4 deciding I wanted 1. When he found out about the problem he had a second O2 sensor hole fitted to a batch that was already made. Now it's been shifted to the back at top I think. Still mounted above horizontal like it should be.

Hello all, I've been doing some serious shopping for an exhaust system for my R33 S2 (not that the S2 bit matters) & so far I've figure out my front pipe, which I'll be getting from BATMBL very soon (I've not seen a better split dump & pleanty seem to recommend them on here). I think I'll be going for a Hi flow CATCO metal cat from him too, though I would like a few opinions on these & if people that have had them fitted think they're worth it. So now I'm down to the cat back system & boy is there some options here. I am looking for a full stainless system, would prefer a twin pipe muffer, but will go a single if the price is right. I'm also after a system that isn't too noisy (I've no intention of using it on the track) & I want to be sure it's going to attach very well. I also want 1 that's tucked up nicely like the standard system is. So far I've considered going a custom system from Exhaust Technology here in Adelaide with a JunBL twin muffler & custom tips, but at a whopping $1577 for a full stainless (309 high platinum steel I'm told), I'm a little sceptical as to how valuable the system really is. Xforce is off my list, as I've seen how the stuff yellows after a bit of use & the quality isn't the best. Blitz Nur Spec R I have considered, but after seeing the horrible welds on a display 1 down at autobahn I'm not too impressed. Is it normal for them to have fairly thick crappy welds? I'm also not sure about them as I've heared they're meant to be pretty loud, and shoving a silencer in kinda defeats the purpose of getting the system in the first place. Drift exhausts look really good, but are angled which I don't want & meant to be loud as hell. I have seen a Greaddy Power extreme II (about $850 delivered from Nengun) & titanium composite (about $1150 delivered from Nengun also) systems, but am unsure how well they mount, how loud they are or what kind of quaility. Roughly similar deal for HKS. Any opinions on what all these systems are like would be appreciated. Cheers

Yeah have to agree clutch is a strong chance. Not really sure why it would then struggle to accelerate once it's bitten though, bit strange. Could be just that it drops just below the rev point that the cam is meant to switch between the low & high advance setting. ECU may be getting confused since ur on full throttle & the revs suddenly drop.

When was the last time you changed your oil filter? I've normally always done a filter change after 10,000 kays (or 2 oil changes) but I noticed when my 33 was nearing the 10,000 mark on it's filter the lifters were tapping increasingly on start up, then would go away. After I changed the oil & filter the noise was gone & haven't had it since. I'm thinking of changing my filter every time I do an oil change now as I don't want to starve my turbo of lube either.

Hello all, I have some car audio parts for sale (together) that were installed in my R33 when I bought it as follows: -Sony MDX-C180 Mini Disc DIN unit (Japanese model), with detachable face & wiring loom -Sony RM-X4S steering column mount remote control (Very handy when on the move) -Sony CDX-715 10 CD stacker complete with 5 meter long stacker cable & RCA leads. -Alpine pod style, parcel shelf split type speakers, with logo backlight (Optional, several years old) Price for the lot : Now $150 o.n.o Here is a picture of all parts except the speakers (will have to dig them out): I am willing to post these anywhere in Australia by registered mail. Postage cost will be added on. Payment by direct deposit or COD only. All parts were working before when they were removed from vehicle. All that is required to make a complete system is a pair of front speakers, some speaker wires & a bit of installation know how. This would be a good system for someone with not a lot of money to shell out on a new system or still has some mini discs they'd like to use, parts could always be upgraded later. My reason for selling these parts is that I already had a much more expensive Pioneer head unit that I've since had installed with a new Cadence Amp & new Alpine Speakers. Also for sale is a set of brand new BOSCH belts suitable for a later model R31 Skyline: 4PK 925 (4-groove, 925mm long belt): Drives alternator, water pump & cooling fan 4PK 875 (4-groove, 875mm long belt): Drives A/C compressor 3PK 865 (3-groove, 865mm long belt): Drives power steering Price: $35 o.n.o. To buy these over the counter will cost you over $50 minimum (check for yourself). I bought these for my R33 thinking they were exactly the same length........ wrong they were ALL shorter (by about 10-15 mm). I'd prefer to just sell these locally in Adelaide, am willing to deliver them to anywhere from the mid to southern suburbs otherwise pickup or postage (at extra cost) could be arranged.

Thanks for the diagram, but you seem to be reading a lot into a diagram that has no specific speeds, & this is for a really good reason. A system like HICAS is NOT going to suddenly start operating differently the moment it hit's 80kph like flicking a switch. Imagine this: You are mid turning into a corner at about say 70, realise you are going a lot slower than you need to so you accelerate through the corner. When you hit 80 kph mid corner the HICAS decides to suddenly intervene & kick the rear wheels out....... See a problem here? If the system worked like that every second skyline with it fitted would be in a wrecking yard by now. I'd say more logically that this diagram shows the systems 3 most extreme situations, & that the system would progressively change between them depending on what speed you car is doing. I have it known for a fact that from my own experience the system will do exactly what is shown on the midspeed scenario from as low as 40 kph. I tend to do this most often when turning at right angled intersections & accelerating hard when exiting them. The faster I go the more aggressive it becomes, but it is not suddenly at 80 kph that it starts working. Sorry guys I'm standing firm on this 1, maybe you should try refitting you HICAS system & test it out for yourselves.

Well I'll be interested to read the documentation you're on about once I find it. Because I'm absolutely certain that it functions below 80. I've had a friend observe it working when I'm manuvoring out of his driveway & have parked it with the wheels not straight. It doesn't move a lot at low speed usually unless u slide it (something already noted on here by others) or perform sharp turns, but it's noticeable none the less. Something that would be worth noting is that things rarely stay the same when it comes to stuff like this. If the info is in reference to a GTR for instance it's always going to be set up differently since its AWD not RWD like a GTS-T (which I have). This wouldn't be overly complicated to do. I'd also suggest that there were several updates to the system over the years as with any bit of technology (mine is a late model 97) , & each one operating differently. There is also I found out electrical & hydraulic versions of the system (mine is electric) though I don't know if that's just on 32's or 33's just yet, but these would also most likely be different in operation too. I don't confess to be a know all like you are insinuating, but I know mine definantely works at low speeds

Not a problem. Let us know how you go.

No worries. Can't gurantee that that's the problem but I'm sure it'll help you eliminate a few things anyway even if it's not that.

Hmm interesting to see an O2 sensor causing that problem, but entirely possible none the less. I've got a bit of detail on some of the causes of this problem on another thread for the DIY's out there. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=106865 Just my own contribution, may make it a bit more clear for some.

If it happens again let me know exactly when. Could be either a vacuum leak or a problem with the idle controller, I just detailed something similar in another thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=106865

Afm's are a tricky beast to check, the only way to do it properly is with an oscilloscope, and not too many people have them. In any case if ur idle speed is going up & down ur going to have trouble getting reliable readings, though it should give a uniform wave if the idle variation is constant. I'd actually start looking for vacuum leaks, because that's more likely. I had an intermittent idle issue on my 33 & it would do just what u are saying. It turned out the vacuum hose to the boost gauge sensor was splitting where it was connected to the plenum & would sometimes leak causing the idle issue. The problem is when you have a leak is that the engine is then sucking in air that it's not measuring from the afm. The computer gets confused & varies the Idle air controller valve to compensate, which it finds very difficult when there's an air leak it doesn't know about. You should check for leaks mainly between the section on anything between the throttle body and the the intake ports of the head. Vacuum hoses, injector seals, gaskets & that kind of thing, even a small leak in this area will have the biggest effect at idle. Also remove & clean the IAC valve & the AFM elements with a can of carburettor/Throttle body cleaner (also known as a decarbonising spray) as if either of these are gunked up & dirty it can cause problems too. Hope this helps u out

Guys with the intercoolers it's pretty simple as 2 why u'd go a larger cooler. A 1.5 PSI pressure drop across an intercooler flowing enough air for 170RWKW is still pretty high. I guessing busky that ur running about 12 PSI of boost? A good intercooler should have about that pressure drop at about 20 PSI. Put simply the standard intercooler is more restrictive & while the aftermarket 1 may have a bit more lag (Piping length & size dependant also) it will cool the air a lot more once on the move. Cool air is more dense meaning more air in each cylinder on each stroke, which also means more fuel can be added = more power. Think of it the same way as you would your exhaust system as far as the air flow is concerned. Just because the amount of air it holds is more doesn't mean it gets a bigger pressure drop. Its all about how big the holes are that the air has to get through. Hope that clears things up a bit. And personaly I'm going to buy a Split Dump off of BATMBL, while it may seem that for the money the gain isn't that great now, when u up the boost more when u up the boost more after changing the cooler & other bits, the gain will be even greater. Spend the money on the better system. It'll pay for itself in the long run.

Well I'm going to have to look a bit harder then at the locals. I went to Exhaust Technology here in Adelaide for a cat back system for my 33 & they wanted nearly a grand for mild steel! But I want stainless which from them (with a JunBL muffler) costs a whopping $1577! I'm sure it's be a nice system if I had it done, but doubt it's really worth that much, even if they do use 309 (High Platnum they claim) stainless steel. I've seen on NENGUN a Greddy Titanium system for less than $1200 delivered. Only problem I have is that I really want a twin pipe outlet. I'm yet to see a bolt on system that's twin pipe for a 33.