J_Red33

I have to totally agree with your analysis there SK about the dyno-fan set up. I went to a dyno day SAU SA had last year & had my 33 run on the dyno (Full turbo back 3-inch system, everything else standard including SMIC). I watched other 33's that didn't have a complete 3-inch system & while their power figures were lower, they were more consistent with a maximum of about 2-3 RWKW variation, like every other car that went on the dyno (primarily skylines & other nissans of various specs). However when my 33 went on it dropped 7 RWKW from the first to second consecutive run (warm day ~28-30 degrees) on a well warmed up engine. Power figures were 177 then 170 RWKW respectively. While I believe that the efficiency gained from the exhaust system had also highlighted the inefficiency of the intercooler, it had been exacerbated by the fact the fan had not been blowing very much air on it, if any. Having said that. I do notice a significant power loss on warm to hot days (feels a lot more that just 7RWKW) regardless of the speed being travelled at, and am sure that it would maintain a higher & more consistent amount of power from a much larger fmic in these conditions.

Not sure as far as the EVC 3 goes. But the EVC5 comes with filters that have to be fitted for what ever reason, most likely I'd say to maintain correct operation & prevent any internal damage to the controller from oil etc. What worries me is if they stop making this model of EVC are the filters still going to be available & if not where else can you get inline filters that are made to filter out oil?

Surely someone out there has had to change the filters on their boost controller

Hello there peoples, I have been debating for quite a while as to which boost controller to get for my car & I have been looking seriously at the HKS EVC5 for some time, as well as the Blitz SBC ID3 (or Spec R as it's now known). Biggest problem I have with the HKS unit is the paper filters it requires to work properly. What worries me about these is that if the ones that come with the unit wear out, how hard is it to get replacements? Can you just go to somewhere that sells air tools etc & buy them off the shelf or do you have to specially order the damn things & are they expensive? Would appreciate all responses to this, I need a boost controller as the standard bleeder isn't regulating boost very well since I had the full exhaust put on. Lots of Rich & Retard shenanigans...... Cheers

Yes not recommend for MOST syncro-type transmissions as it says. I actually got the guys at Motor Traders to check the Redline book for what they recommend for the RB25 gearbox's & this stuff is the go. Either that or SuperLight shockproof. The Lightweight is recommended if you do track work though. Haven't put it in yet, going to be interested to see how it goes.

Yeah them or you go even further to Perth at Xspeed. You have to be a service agent of HKS to tune their gear & they're the only 2 companies in Australia that are agents. Sorry dude

Count me in too PK. Debating now if I should replace my rear rotors with some DBA's like the fronts in time for the show so my car looks uniform. Should look even better than it did at Autosalon

Yeah Mike Doyle told me Scott closed his doors for family reasons. He was a bit surprised himself. Scott's also doing security work now, seen him in town a couple times & realised who he was. Another vote for Action Suspension. They did a good job with suspension repairs to my old mans rather tidy VT (they appreciated how well looked after it was). Showed us exactly what had been damaged & it drove like new after.

Hello everyone, Late on a Sunday night when I should be in bed I'm sitting in front of the comp pondering about EBC's.This question has been bugging me for some time & I'm in the market for either one of these, so I decided it was time for a comparison thread. From what I know both these controllers hold boost really well, but what I don't really know that well is what is good & what is bad about both. So anyone with opinions about what they do & don't like about either one of these controllers it would be appreciated if you posted up some info. Cheers, Jared

Hi guys. I'm also in the market for an EBC & I've narrowed my choices down to a Blitz SBC ID3 or a HKS EVC5. 1 thing I want to be able to do is hide the boost module in the engine bay if I can (cops in Adelaide are pricks & will defect you for it). I saw 1 Blitz boost module once & it was huge, but I'm unsure if it was for an ID3. From what I've seen the HKS Boost module is far more compact (& possibly lighter), which has me swinging towards it a bit. Performance wise, I'm yet to see/hear of anyone doing a direct comparision between the 2 or having experience with both, so any information would be greatly appreciated.

Dunno that it would achive much more than a club lock. All they would have to do then is get a wheel with the same attachement & fit it. Sure it would stop the dumber theives (as per club lock), but not the smarter ones.

Was going to come out tonight, but a bit too much on already. Early start tomorrow with work too (working extra to save up for a fmic). Maybe catch you all next time.

Don't you love how they think an EBC + BOV = hoon. Wankers. When are they going to start taking some of the leathal rust buckets off of the road instead. I know a guy at work that drives around in the biggest POS of a datto 1600 I've ever seen & he's an engineer. Not that he can't afford a better car, just doesn't want to spend money on one.

We got 2 you got the third. I won't lay claim to that 1, it was your car that won it Cara. See that just prooves I'm not greedy thanks for sharing anyway

A reliable source was it? I'm yet to actually see/hear any comments from a pro on these.

Whoa bloody hell only just read this. WTF is up with these people what sore loosers they are. Just the amount of attention they would have got from people going though the gates would have been enough to generate a shedload of business for them. Most wouldn't know that they lost & wouldn't give a toss either. Gonna cost them a fortune in lost business long term, idiots. And for the record I'd take offence to the suggestion that I or anyone else in our group were such an overgrown child that we'd steal anyone elses trophy. We were happy as a cops in shit with our TWO trophies, ta very much. Sorry to hear your mate had his stolen Nick, at least he got a replacement.

Another one for ET. Keep in mind guys that Stainless steel is quite expensive. I got my 3 inch cat back done by Marky all stainless with a JunBL & a Mangaflow mufflers for $1400. You get what you pay for, if the peso's are a problem go mild steel instead or keep saving.

I'm interested. 14th would be best for me, most likely working the weekend either side to help pay for some more car parts

Well I've been told this problem is fairly common & all my mucking around with the wiring system yielded only minimal improvement. I spoke to a couple of old work colleuges of mine a few weeks back & they both told me what I was suspecting, its a good chance the alternator itself it rooted. So today I finally got around to attaching my Oscilloscope to my car to see how the alternator is behaving & sure enough the charging signal is shithouse. Instead of having just a continuous bumpy waveform I have got 2 successive points on each wave, which sees the voltage spike. These spikes are what normally get's through to the audio system. So for me it looks like the solution is to replace the alternator & I may possibly add a small power capacitor if this doesn't completely cure my issues. Will post up my findings once I'm done.

Would have liked to have gone myself, but like cara $$$ rule. I'll be spending it on other mods instead to maybe make it more viable next time

I just got Doyles to repaint the blades & arms all at once & they look great. Cost me penuts too, he through it in with the job he did for me.

Thanks man, high praise indeed. Would you believe I'm still restoring it? It's not in 100% originial condition believe it or not, but the long term aim is to make is a secret weapon & better than original mint condition

Well after a bit of ringing around the Yokahama Advans are off of my list with about $470 being the best quote I've got for my size (265/35/18) Awsome tyres, but a bit over of my budget this time. I am now looking at: Falken FK-452 ($320) Hankook K104 ($292) Kumho KU-31 ($305) I was considering the RS-2 Hankooks as well but they seem to be a bit too much of a dry weather tyre for a daily driver. I'm tempted to try the Falken's as I have the K104's now & am not happy with the grip levels I have. 3rd gear wheel spins in the wet from as low as 2500 - 3000 rpm have not been out of the question with these tyres (with only 177 RWKW & standard suspension). Kumho's I'm a bit iffy on. Never been a big fan of their tyres.

Hmm well I guess that's a lesson learnt. If you run out of meds again your walking next time I hope. Very lucky it wasn't worse. Glad to know all are ok.

Not sure that I'd have the time or money to go over there myself, though I would very much like to. Really I'd like to spend the money on a couple more mods, like a front mount for chrisake! It would then be a little bit more worth while going over there, but very doubtfull I can afford to go & mod the car too. Appreciate the comments about my ride though all I need is all the stuff under Matts bonnett....... Lovely engine bay that 1. Pk yours is coming along quite nicely too. I'm envious of you both.