Samon

Silver R34 turning onto Dorcas St, South Melbourne about 15 minutes ago... rego WOK***

You forgot the 4th option... two freakin' massive hairdryers producing loads of serious tire-shredding power!

Spotted a nice looking white R34 GTR on Dorcas St, South Melbourne yesterday arvo about 4:30ish... 'GTR34R' I think

Ah yes... that's very annoying... does anyone know if there's a how-to or a thread write-up on fixing this?

Actually, you can. Just hit the 'mode' button and you'll turn it on with no fan, or the fan button to switch it on with just fan (no A/C)... I think....

No problems! You can run it at 2ohm or 8ohm??? how???? it's only got two voice coils... to get 2 or 8 ohms you'd need two subs... In theory, none. The only difference might be that at 2ohm you would not be edging towards the limits of the amp, and so you are at less a risk of clipping out (although more at risk of overdriving your sub!). Tuned properly to avoid any clipping/distortion it should not sound any different.

Not really... In reality it'd be about the same... but the higher the resistance the less 'load' placed on the components of the amp (which most importantly results in less heat being generated). Well, that's not 100% true. Current (amps) = sqrt(power(watts)/resistance(ohms) = sqrt(300/2) = sqrt(150) = 12.3A Current (amps) = sqrt(power(watts)/resistance(ohms) = sqrt(300/4) = sqrt(75) = 8.66A So as you can see, you're drawing LESS current to push the same power into higher resistance. Now that's assuming equal efficiencies of the amplifier, which isn't actually valid, so the difference won't be that much, but it works to illustrate a point! That's exactly right... the sub in question has dual 2ohm voice coils. So, if you wire them in parallel, you get: 1/R = 1/2 + 1/2 1/R = 1/1 R = 1ohm Wiring them in series, you get: R = 2 + 2 R = 4ohm So that particular sub only supports 1ohm and 4ohm configurations.

Why do you say that? 2ohm is working the amp far harder than 4ohm... and so long as it's tuned right (i.e. no clipping - so not pushing the limits of the sub) it should go practically forever.

4 Ohm. It's then perfectly matched for the sub, and has the added bonus that it will not be 'straining' the amp as much (i.e. it should run cooler). Also, you're much less likely to blow the sub accidentally. Personally I like to have my amp about 10% more powerful than my sub, and then just make sure I'm not driving it to 100%. The last thing you want it amp clipping (distortion), as that will generally exceed the thermal and/or dynamic limits of the sub, and will therefore fry a sub dam quick!

Yeah I've got the software and cable and everything, no issues there. I haven't played around with anything yet (obviously, it's still all sitting in my garage!) but I'll give the tuner a call and he can probably step me through getting it working safe enough to drive down to see him.

I've wondered the same thing... In a month or so, I'm doing the big NA->+T conversion on my 33, and I'll be doing it all here at home. I'm putting in an eManage piggyback ECU and turbo injectors, and obviously manifolds and turbo, and I'm not sure if it will be safe to drive it to the tuners (about 10 minutes away) or should I hire a trailer?

I assume that's safari on Mac OSX? If so, you can see all the passwords that you have stored in the keychain. Just open up Keychain Access in your utilities folder. Once you launch Keychain Access, just find the SAU url in the list and then click on the little 'Show Password' button. You might be asked your password that you have set up for Keychain Access (which AFAIK is usually the same as your login password). You should then be able to see your password. Anyway, it's good to hear that it's all sorted now.

Which browser? If it's FireFox, you can go Tools > Options > Security > Saved Passwords > Show Passwords and it will show you the stored passwords for each site.

Ummm... how are you writing this if you don't know your password? Is it saved in your web-browser? If so, you may be able to retrieve it that way...

Those "little speakers" are called tweeters... they provide the very high frequencies that the rest of the system misses (i.e. those high-hat cymbals, snare beats, etc) and help deliver overall clarity to the system. You're not going to find them pumping out loads of volume... if they were overpowering they would sound terrible! To see if they're working, find some music with some nice high bits and play it nice and loud! Most pop music will have enough highs to notice them if you're listening out for them.

I can't confirm the fouling plugs, etc... but when you warm up by just idling, different parts of the car warm up at different rates (i.e. the engine itself may warm up, but the gearbox, diff, etc will not as they're not doing anything). Gentle driving until everything is up to temp is much better as all of the parts warm up together.

I've installed an eManage Blue on my N/A R33, as I've just about got all the stuff now to do the turbo conversion (rb25de+t high-compression turbo setup). I havn't got it tuned or anything yet, just basically zeroed it out, so there's no power increase or anything, but I just wanted it all ready to go for when I do the conversion. From my experience, I couldn't see why one from an R34GTT wouldn't hook straight up to an R34GT, though make sure it's all zeroed out before you start it up, as the tune for the GTT will probably still be on there and that could cause issues. As for the benefits however, I can't say (as mine is only there in preparation for the NA => +T conversion soon), but I'd assume you're gonna be more limited than on a turbo. The main reason you go for an aftermarket ECU on a turbo is that for some reason you've outgrown the capabilities of the factory ECU... in my case that's because I'm bolting a turbo on with an N/A ECU, but it could be an upgraded turbo, different injectors or AFM, etc. With all that stock, there's really not much more that can be tuned... all you'll be adjusting really is your air/fuel ratio, and on an N/A there's not that much you can do about that anyway. In short: possible: - yes, but worth it - possibly not. That said, I've not had mine tuned or anything so I can't speak from experience.

+1 ^^^^ If you have nothing limiting/bleeding the airflow to the wastegate, the spring will open it at 5PSI... you need a boost controller, bleed valve, etc to reduce the pressure the wastegate "sees" so that it opens later (i.e. more boost). a boost controller works by preventing the pressure from getting to the wastegate until the pressure is the desired boost (i.e. 7PSI or whatever)... a bleed valve works by simply bleeding off some of the pressure so that again, the wastegate "sees" less than the turbo is actually making.

My Series 1 R33 (N/A) bounces at 6850 (from my eManage->laptop), but the tacho is showing about 7000...

Thanks!

Hey mate, Where are you located? How does the car sit with this suspension? Is it much lower than stock? Cheers, Sam.

Hi Gary/SydneyKid, I've got an S1 R33 GTS (soon to be turboed, but that's not really the point). The thing handles quite well, compared to a falcodore, but it's still got way too much body roll for my liking. It is pretty much a street-only car, not totally a 'daily-driver' but I just want it to handle more like a go-kart and less like a boat! I know stuff all about suspension, and just want an idea of what I'm looking at to get the thing handling like I'd like. Cheers, Sam.

Any chance these will fit an R33 S1 GTST?

Sorry, the old exhaust is sitting in the garage for when I do my turbo conversion Pretty much any exhaust shop should be able to make one up... that was just a mild-steel one with pressed-bends... if you want stainless or mandrel-bends (really overkill for N/A though...) you're gonna have to pay more. Oh, and that's just with a crappy looking piece of 2.5" black pipe coming out of the rear muffler, no tip or anything. I was only interested in a pass on the EPA test! Any exhaust from an R33 will fit, be it turbo or non-turbo, but liek I said, too big and you will really loose the low-down torque and driveability. And remember... 2.5" pipe through two mufflers is still damn loud! The N/A is much louder as the turbo on the GTSt acts as an extra muffler, filtering and chopping up the sound that leaves the block... everyone I know says that yeah, it's better (i.e. quieter) than the old exhaust, but still damn loud. I can still set off car alarms occasionally Get it inside a multistory carpark (i.e. at my work) and people can hear me coming a few levels away... and that's not me giving it stick either! The other advantage is that it doesn't 'drone' like it used to. At 100ks on the freeway there was this horrible drone that would drive you crazy... now, gone. Seriously, put a 3" exhaust on an N/A 2.5L engine, and you'll regret it.

Ummm... I think you'll find that was for a turbo... my N/A when completely stockers was getting around the 6.0-6.5 sec 0-100, and around 15 sec 1/4 mile. (Measured with a G-Tech Pro... not 100% accurate but pretty damn good!)