Samon

First off, welcome! As for the 4-stud wheels... my N/A 33 had the 5-stud conversion when I got it, so I can't help you there. The exhaust however... I can The previous owner of mine put a JASMA 3" mandrel-bent exhaust designed for a high-flowing turbo 33 on there... had just a single resonator and then into two straight-through cannons. It was *very* loud (I loved the note it had!)... certainly well over the legal 90dB. Anyway, eventually I got EPA'd for noise pollution and had to get it replaced. I got a 2.5" system made up from the cat-back, two resonators and no milo-tin exhaust, and that's bang on 90dB. Still roars when you give it some stick, but now I can come home late at night and not wake up all the neighbours! The major difference (apart from the volume of course) however was the power delivery. With the 3" system on, there was not enough backpressure or something... the power (what little power you have on an RB25DE) started to be delivered from around 4000RPM and would pull ll the way to the red-line (about 6800RPM). This meant you really did have to do a fair bit of clutch slipping for sedate city driving, as there just wasn't enough low-down torque. With the 2.5" system now, the power is there much lower... say 1800-2000 RPM, and tapers off around the 6000RPM mark. This certainly makes it much more driveable for a daily. The 2.5" system, I got made up for a couple of hundred (was about $250-300, but that included the actual EPA testing...), and as much as I loved that deafening roar that would set off car-alarms jsut from driving past, the 2.5" system is much, much better. Oh, and cat-back generally doesn't include the cat.

Well you may have the original Japanese filler... which would have sealed perfectly as designed. It's just that when complied, they're supposed to change it to one that only fits the Australian Unleaded nozzle, which is not always done so well, hence the leaking and breaking off. If it wasn't changed, then it's not likely to leak!

Here are some pics I took just now... I know the quality is crappy (just the camera on my phone) but at least you can get an Idea of how I used the Knead-It to fix it. And yes... this is NEVER gonna come off If I had known what the Knead-It would be like, I would have been better prepared and made it look a lot better... but once it's set theres not much you can do! I would have liked to get it much smoother and looking more stock... but this is how it is so that's how it's staying! At least it doesn't leak or anything... and yeah, you can tell it's a good seal when you open the cap (especially on a warm day) and hear the 'Woosh!'.

For me it was just the little tube that the cap screws onto with the reducing hole/flap so that only an unleaded nozzle fits in. If I remember, I'll take a photo of it tonight... not that you can really see much because it's all covered in Knead-It now!

Yeah it's good stuff... you've gotta work pretty quick though... from what I remember (this was over a year ago now...) it's like 10 or 15 minutes until it's 100% set... but the last few minutes it's almost set anyway and it's pretty hard to work with!

About a week before I broke the nozzle off, i filled up completely. When I got home I got out and saw a big red stain down the side of my car! The petrol had leaked out under some 'spirited' cornering I saw what had happened and washed the petrol off, but didn't have time to do anything about it. The next week, I only put in half a tank just to be careful, and as I was screwing the fuel cap back on, the whole nozzle came off in my hands!

I had the same issue... started to leak and then one day broke off. I used some stuff called Knead-It... it's kinda like a plasticine consistency until it goes hard... then it goes hard as a rock. I'd be worried with silicone based adhesives (i.e. sicaflex) as the petrol might dissolve it over time... http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-KneadIt-Steel/default.aspx You can get it at Bunnings or whatever... lol one of the suggested uses on their website is "Repairing a hole in a fuel tank". Fantastic stuff. You have to use it to believe how strong/hard it sets!

+1 Exactly. For the 34s they made them all the same, but 32s and 33s, N/A was 4-stud, turbo was 5-stud.

Well as it's a 33, it's quite likely that it's the well-known vent motor gear slipping... Mine does it, I still havn't been bothered to pull the entire dash apart (much more than just pulling the fascia off, done that heaps of times!) to fix it... I'll get there one day! A quick search will show that lots of other people have this annoying problem too... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...33-t181553.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...ir-t202324.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...un-t213924.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cl...rd-t116682.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/An...se-t206019.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...bo-t191504.html

As you have suggested, this is what Cihan does. He will install it, then take it to the dyno for tuning. So unless you want to pay for two lots of dyno time, you won't get a before/after reading.

Do you mean that it doesn't have an aftermarket blow-off, and that it's still stock plumb-back, or that it doesn't have the plumb-back hose? Coz if it's the latter, theres your cause!

Oops! sorry!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...es-t233690.html

But wouldn't it be better to have the boost controller seeing exactly what pressure is reaching the manifold... I mean I don't particularly care if my turbo is making 13PSI if the engine only sees 12... the 12 is what I want to limit yeah?

Technically it doesn't matter which pipe you tap into (i.e. hot (turbo-FMIC) or cold (FMIC-throttle)... but personally I tapped into the cold pipe... whichever is easier!

Car: 1994 R33 GTS Mods: 2.5" Custom Exhaust, stock intake, etc Driving style: (ie: granny, boy racer, soccer mum): fairly hard... Driving conditions: (ie: city, highway etc): city mainly... probably about 75%/25% city/suburbs Fuel brand: (ie: caltex 9X, BP 9X etc): Mobil 95 Ltr's for a full tank: (ie: how many litters does it usually take for you to fill right up): 60L KM's per tank: (ie: how many km's do you get per tank): about 500 Soon to become an R33GTS+t... so we'll see how bad it gets then

Personally? LPG is supposed to be used for BBQ's... and that's all

You'll read everywhere on this forum about the legendary 'Z32 AFM'... that's exactly what it is... an AFM from a 300ZX (someone please correct me if I'm wrong!)

From http://www.eastlink.com.au/page.aspx?code=TOLLS:

Hmmm... My N/A 33 has an LSD, HICAS, and aftermarket coilovers... the only thing I'm missing is traction control... which I'd probably be turning off anyway

That's the thing... I've got an N/A 33... and was weighing up the options: 1. Sell my car, buy an R33 GTST or, if I could afford it, and R34GTT 2. Do a full RB25DET engine-swap 3. Do an RB25DE -> RB25DE+T conversion. I've decided to go with option 3. My reasoning on this is: Okay... an N/A skyline isn't exactly the easiest thing to sell in the first place... I've looked around and I reckon I'd get about 8-9K at best. Then I've gotta find a nice 33 or 34 turbo... looking at between 12 and 25 this way... so I'm between 3K and 17K in the red. This has been a great car when I was on P's and I know the history (well... at least the last 3ish years). It's got a completely custom CarPuter install with a custom fabricated dash (touch-screen in the dash running up to a computer in the boot running custom-written software). Oh, and the engine's most certainly never been boosted past... well...0psi! This pretty much rules out option 1. A full engine swap was an option, but after looking around it would appear that it would be pretty pricey all up... looking at around 3-3.5K for a decent engine with loom and ECU, plus either LOTS of my own time and effort, or pay someone a few grand to do the swap. I knew I could get an RB25DET with a broken rod for about $500, and after pricing up everything I need to do the conversion I've set a budget of 2K. I've been buying here and there, and I've now got pretty much everything for a tad over $1500. This includes: the afforementioned RB25DET with turbo, manifolds, dump/front pipe, etc, a GReddy eManage Blue and loom, a Hybrid FMIC and piping kit, a TurboSmart boost controller, and a few other little bits and pieces. I'm planning to do it over a few weekends, so I'll do everythign that I can before the car has to be taken off the road (i.e. I can fit up the FMIC one weekend, the eManage can be hooked up but disabled the next, I can install the boost gauge but not hook it up, etc... then only once everything else is ready will I do the actual engine work. I'm expecting plenty of surprises, but this is all part of the learning curve. Yes, I'll be running high-compression, and therefore limited to fairly low boost levels, but this will only add to the fun

How old are you? any accident history? I'm 21, no accidents (except when I hit a 'roo, which they don't count as my fault) and with Shannons. They were about $1100 for full comp, with a $900 excess... that's on my stockish R33 in Melbourne, covered for $12,000. Just Cars were gonna about $1500/year... When I got the 'line I had just turned 19 and it was around $1900/yr, with a $1800 excess... but at the time I figured Shannons wouldn't touch me (age) and didn't even try. This year when my insurance came around a mate recommended me to give them a go, and they were fantastic!

Just had another look, much closer this time, and in reality we're talking about less than 1mm in/out play. This should be fine, right?

That's the impression I was under. I'll have to have a look at it tonight when I get home, but how much movement (in and out) is okay?

If I look directly into where the dump-pipe bolts on, i can slide it... in-and-out about 3mm