Samon

Hello all, My first post (I think... maybe not) over in the 'dark-side' of the forums... I'm about to do the big RB25DE => RB25DE+T conversion, and I'm pretty sure I've got everything I need... only worry I have is with the turbo itself. It's a stock R33 RB25DET one, but there's a little bit of shaft-play. I've heard that it's okay to have a little bit of up/down movement, but no back/forwards (I guess you'd call it 'end-play' or something)... is this right? It moves about 3mm back and forwards... is it worth getting it re-built? What kinda prices am I looking at for that? I've done plenty of searching, but can only really find threads related to 'items for sale' adverting 'no-shaft-play' or 'minimum shaft-play' so far! Cheers, Sam.

two words: XForce Varex http://xforce.com.au.tmp.anchor.net.au/cars/view_car/29 it's basically a straight-through cannon, but when you close the butterfly, instead of causing excessive backpressure like a plain old butterfly valve would, it routes the exhaust gasses through an extra chamber around the outside of the muffler.

My 33 is my only car, so it gets driven every day to and from work. I bought it with just under 120,000kms just over two years ago and it's now sitting at almost 180,000. Go through a tank a week, around the 550kms and costs about $90-$100/week in fuel.

I'm just about to do this... I'm currently buying bits and pieces. I set myself a budget of around $2000... worked out out as follows: Turbo: $300 --stock GTST one... ended up paying a little more at $350 Exhaust manifold: $100 --again, stock GTST one... $100 on the dot Intake manifold + GTST injectors: $200 --ditto... ended up at about $250 with shipping eManage & Looms: $500 --needed to get things working right on the NA ECU... eBay $170 shipped! FMIC: $300 --eBay again my friend... $200 shipped Various Piping (cooler, front/dump, etc): $200 --yet to get these...we'll see! Mechanical boost gauge: $50 --still looking for one I like that doesn't go up to like 30PSI... boosting at 7PSI looks pretty weak on that scale! Tuning & Dyno: $400 --obviously not yet! So my estimate comes out to just over $2000, that's with me doing all the labour. So far I've found everything on eBay and the forums here. In reality I think it will be slightly cheaper than my initial estimate, as I've made some savings here and there (i.e. the eManage and FMIC), but who knows what else lies aroudn the corner... As it's a high-compression NA engine with a turbo on it, boost is likely to be limited to 6-8PSI, but that should be enough for me (for now!). It's certainly not "converting it into a GTST"... (maybe a GTS+T?), but should make it much more fun to drive and put out some decent power. -- Just my 2 cents!

Absolutely. Why would the aerial be going up and down depending on the engine RPM? After a fair bit of searching, it would appear that some models came out with a kind of exhaust 'flap' that opened and closed to increase backpressure down low and provide maximum flow high up in the rev range. I've actually got an APEXi ECV valve fitted in the exhaust, but no cable hooking it up to the motor yet (lol been there for months now though!), so it just stays wide open (VERY LOUD). Gonna be turbo-ing 'er up very shortly (got everything to do it, just gotta find some time!), so I'm fairly sure I'll want maximum flow all the time anyway.

As the title says... chasing a second-hand GReddy eManage Blue and the harnesses. I'm doing an RB25DE => +T conversion and this is the last thing I'm waiting on! Obviously pickup from somewhere not too far from me (VIC SE Suburbs) is preferred, but happy to pay postage too.

Not damage as such... but running right out can cause any crap (sediment from dirty fuel, etc) that has settled on the bottom of the tank to be sucked up and pumped through your injectors, which could possibly become blocked if there was some real bad crap in the tank. In general though, the fuel filter should catch that, but might need to be replaced sooner than normal... Personally, I ran my 33 dry, and apart from feeling like a complete idiot waiting 2 hours for the RACV to come and give me my 9L of petrol, only to find out there was a little servo just around the corner, no harm was done! In general I certainly wouldn't recommend making a regular habit of it though.

It depends on the car.. well, on the transmission actually. For an automatic, you can just use a push-button (momentary) switch which, when open, breaks the circuit for the wire to the starter. To start the car, you then have to hold the hidden switch down while you turn the key to START. Once started, you can let go of the button. For a manual however, this is no good, as a theif could flick the ignition to ON and then just roll-start the car, bypassing the starter-circuit lock-out. You therefore need to use a toggle-style switch (can be a push-on/push-off button or a literal toggle-switch), breaking the main ignition wire from the barrel. This means that without this switch in the ON position, the ignition will be as if the key is in the ACC position, not the ON position. You need to remember to manually toggle the switch to the OFF position when you leave the car this way... It's important to remember though, that you really need to splice into the loom (whichever wire you choose), you shouldn't splice into it right near the barrel, or on the steering column at all. The first place a car-theif is gonna look to hot-wire the car is there, and most likely it won't take long to figure out what's been done and reverse it. Preferably put the splicing somewhere that is very difficult to get to, and actually remove a long-enough section of the wire so that even if it's exposed it's not easy to see which wire should be connected to which.

Well because it's hibernated (like 'standby' but it writes all the contents of the memory to the hard disk and then powers down, when it is fired up again it puts it back into memory and it's like it was just before hibernation) , it's running whatever it was beforehand (my front-end), but if I ever shutdown or reboot, the front-end is set to automatically launch anyway. Un-Hibernating takes about 25-30 seconds... powering up from a shutdown or reboot takes about 1 minute.

I've written a little script that hibernates the laptop 1 minute after it detects that it's running on battery power. When the car is switched off, the screen powers down, but the lappy is still running for an extra 1 minute... mainly so that if you stall or whatever and need to re-crank, it doesn't initiate a hibernation! Anyway, I'm yet to build a startup controller... I've got a button on the dash to power-up... but I'm planning to build one that detects ACC power and fires the lappy up automatically. It sounds easy, but there are a few things to take into account (i.e. don't fire the trigger (hit's the power switch on the lappy) if the lappy's already running).

I know you've said you're not interested in a CarPC, but just hear me out. I've built one in my R33, using a custom moulded touch-screen in where the double DIN headunit would be... Using my custom-built "front-end" interface, I have almost everything that you've mentioned: - FM/AM tuner Using a Griffin RadioShark hacked up to the standard skyline antenna - CD/DVD/MP3/MP4/WMV/DivX/Xvid playback slot-loading (laptop) USB DVD drive mounted in the glovebox, and then anything that your PC can play! - Analog/Digital (DVB-T) TV Tuner Don't currently have this, but could easily add a USB TV tuner if I so desired... - GPS Have a USB GPS reciever (SirfStarIII) hooked up, and using a skinned version of FreeDrive GPS for navigation... - Bluetooth for phone (with external mic for car installation) Yep! - USB/SD reader USB: Yes (ports moulded into the dash). SD: No, but could easily be added if so desired - CD/DVD changer control single CD/DVD, but with a 60GB HDD, I can put thousands of MP3's on there anyway! - Audio out (4ch + sub) + optical Yep! running a Creative Audigy2NX USB Soundcard with up to 7.1 output + optical + coaxial... i use it in 4.1 mode - Video out (NTSC/PAL) obviously... VGA (800x600) output up to the touch-screen - Audio/Video input (at least one) Audio: Yes (USB sound-card Line-In or optical) Video: No, but could be added through a capture device if needed - Reversing camera input/sensor Yes! I used a slightly modified WebCam with appropriate software... just gotta get it hooked up to the reversing switch.. - Remote control (with external IR sensor which can be installed in car) No... with a touch-screen I don't need to, but could if I wanted... Basically it's a laptop I bought off eBay (Pentium-M, 512MB RAM, 60GB HDD, Bluetooth, WiFi, etc) that had a cracked LCD. It's mounted in the boot with a 12V power supply/charger, and then all the extras just plug in through USB (got two USB hubs). There's then a VGA cable up to the front where the touch-screen is, and USB for the actual 'touch'-ness and the moulded USB ports in the dash. I've got a Creative Audigy2NX USB sound card running in 4.1 mode connected up to my 4chn amp for the speakers and a monoblock for the sub. I'm a software developer, so I built my own front-end interface, but there are a number of good open-source ones out there. In total, I think the costs came to just over AU$1000, but that included me doing all the fabrication myself and buying lots of parts off eBay! I have learned so much through doing this... and of course through reading through the forums at http://www.mp3car.com/. It certainly does the job for me!

Where are you located?

My point was to question why you bothered to put those mods down in the list when the topic was about how much power to expect...

Well with those mod's, you should easily be hitting eleventy-million kw!

yeah I would.

I know you're not wanting to part it out, but would you consider selling without the gearbox? I'm considering doing an RB25DE => RB25DE+t conversion and so really don't need the gearbox at all Actually, there's quite a lot on there I don't need, but 'd rather have the option of just doing a full engine-swap (replacing any missing bits of the new engine with ones from mine).

I assume you've checked the fuses already?

In short that'd be the tail lights

It does... although any higher diff ratios would really leave me struggling to accelerate. If anything I'd like a lower ratio again (i.e. higher revving) but with another gear ) 3000RPM at 100 on the freeway does get a little tedious!

I've got a NA R33 GTS, so the ratios are slightly different... At 100km/h in 5th I'm sitting on 3000RPM. So that means it's RPM/30=KMPH.. so 7000/30=233KMPH

Yeah I'm in a N/A... so it's probably something to do with the different diff ratios...

Well I know on mine, I belted through first, second, third, and fourth... about 6000RPM-ish in 4th and it just was like it couldn't go any quicker... The speedo was sayin' a little past the end (180). I'm told this is the limiter. I mean I was accelerating up and up to that point, then it just stopped revving any higher.

Yeah a mate's got (kinda... it's been sitting unregistered on his front lawn for a while now...) an '88 prelude... it's really quite novel to drive! It's got a turning-circle that absolutely kicks ass! He's got a really small court out the front of his place... in the line I need to either make it a 3 point turn or give it some revs and some clutch dump to flick the back around... he can just turn the wheel and not even get too near the gutter! And damn... you do sit down low in that thing! Pitty it doesn't have any power

I do feel a bit this way. I mean Nissan obviously thought it was a good thing at the time... I guess for me it's a case of if it aint broke, don't fix! I do notice it a little bit... the first time it kicked in it was a bit unnerving, but when you expect it it's quite good. I guess it comes down to what you use the car for. For drifting it's obviously not a good thing, as you certainly don't want the back end flopping around when it's sideways, but for mid-high speed cornering it's actually quite good. In theory it should help with reducing body roll and increasing stability, as well as allowing for tighter cornering at mid-speeds. I'd really love to know what speeds the stages kick in at though! I often feel it if I'm takign a roundabout quite quickly, it really feels like the back end is hanging out... but without breaking traction, and then it really pulls in nicely. At quite high speeds (i.e. over 90km/h) it feels slightly weird as it kinda crab-walks across the road if you turn only a tiny bit (if you barely move the wheel it kinda moves across without turning...).

I think he was meaning when it was removed it became heavier...