Samon

What do people think about this setup? Blocking the standard PCV line, then a single host from the exhaust-side rocker cover to the catch can and then back to the turbo inlet? Less messy hoses in the engine bay, and no oil vapour directly being allowed into the intake manifold. Thoughts?

Under boost, the PCV valve closes, and the rocker covers have nowhere to vent at all... The pressure pushes down into the sump and pops your dipstick out as the only way out.

SOLD!

No. It will just run mega rich and chew through a tank of fuel in record time - the bigger injectors are there to cope with the extra air flow, you will need an ECU tune to only use the full capacity when required.

24

Yeah, I've had a guy trying to do the same to me... SMS/Email only, he's a marine technician off-shore but wants to buy it unseen, etc. I played with him for a while until he got frustrated (or maybe realised he wasn't gonna get any money out of me easily) and gave up

The daily: 69kW of 1.5L manual power

This is very true... after driving the Lancer all week, the Skyline feels much quicker and more fun... When I was using it as a daily, you get used to the power, handling, response, etc and it looses a little bit of the 'fun' aspect (only a little though )

The higher CR of the DE+T certainly makes it feel more responsive than the equivalent DET, but it could also be a lot of placebo 9-10 PSI is where I hit the limit of detonation, but that's probably also a good thing to keep the stock turbo from exploding

That'd be me...

I've had the issue I described with the stock wheel, and two different boss kits. I can easily get it into diag mode, and make the rear wheels turn manually, etc, everything seems perfect. 99.9% of the time, the light doesn't come on... only after extended periods of driving at speed without turning the steering wheel at all (i.e. long, boring straight highway driving)... in the 5ish years and 80,000km I've had the car, it's only happened maybe 4 or 5 times. I've double- and triple-checked the boss kit installation, all looks good, and as mentioned, the diag mode works fine. Perhaps there is a minor issue in the sensor or something, but I'm not too fussed, it's never caused a problem, just thought I'd see if anyone else had the same issue as me (from what I understood from the OP, and I may be misunderstanding, this was a regular, repeatable issue which happened during regular, daily driving...

On the 32's, the HICAS was a hydraulic system running off the same power steering pump, etc as the front steering. On the 33's, it's a fully electric system, completely separate from the front power steering, so unless someone stuffs something up terribly, your standard power steering won't be affected.

As mentioned, there are plenty of us running reliably turboed DE engines... you've just gotta be smart about the cooling and boost... a FMIC is pretty much essential, and don't go trying to run 20PSI Paying someone to do the work of turboing your DE would be expensive, as there's a fair bit of custom work required (depending on how much you change over)... ended up costing me about 2500 all up I think, but I was able to take my time buying all the bits I needed when they were cheap over a couple of months, etc, and did all the work myself. In general, if your engine's in mint condition, then I'd say go for it, but if its already done 155,000KMs, you could be building a time-bomb

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but it's kinda related... Anyone else have the problem where if you drive in a straight line for a long time at high speeds (i.e. on the highway at 110 for 15 minutes or so without turning), the HICAS light comes on, and stays on until you turn off the car? I've only done this sort of trip a couple of times, and each time the same thing has happened. As far as I can tell, there's no real problems with this happening (maybe the HICAS is disabled, not sure), just interested to know if anyone else has this issue, and if they know what causes it?

I've had 2 cars for the last couple of years now, '98 lancer as the daily and then the 33 as the weekender... when I first bought it I did the math and worked out that after the initial purchase outlay, the car would pretty much cost me $0 each year to keep on the road - the savings in fuel, the less frequent servicing costs, plus the discounted insurance on the 33 for 'limited use', pretty much covered the rego and insurance on the lancer. As many have mentioned, it's great not *having* to get it back on the road before work in the morning if it comes to that... prior to getting the daily, there was more than one occasion where I was out in the garage putting things back together at stupid-o'clock in the morning so that it was ready to drive to work the next day. Unfortunately, as I'm trying to save up to buy my first house, I'm trying to sell the lancer off... in theory I'll be in pretty much the same position financially each year, but I'll have whatever I get for it in the bank as savings.

G'day all, Well, I'm wanting to get out into the housing market, so to boost my savings enough to get a loan, I've gotta sell off some stuff. This lancer has been my 'daily' for the last two years, and it has never let me down. It's done 147,000KMs, and has always been very well looked after - regularly log-book serviced, always garaged and regularly washed, etc, so it is in very good condition. Registered until the end of march, 2011. Being the 1.5L EFI manual model, it delivers fantastic fuel economy (as opposed to the skyline ) , and while it's certainly no dyno-queen, it's not a 'slug' on the road either. It has the factory "SV" package, including sideskirts, 15" alloy rims with near new (<4 months/5000KM) Yokahama A-Drive tyres, and a sports exhaust. As you would expect, air conditioning and power steering are also there. I have fitted HID Xenon headlights, which dramatically improves vision at night, and it has always had the awesome-ness of the molded carpet dash mat , so the dash is in perfect condition with no cracks at all. Remote central locking with alarm/immobiliser and tinted windows are also fitted. The sound system includes a Pioneer CD head unit, 4x200W amplifier, Alpine 'Type S' speakers (6" front, 6x9" rear) and a Fusion 10" 1000W active subwoofer (which is easily removable when extra boot space is required). Currently listed on Carsales.com.au. Looking for around $6,500 for it, but of course I'm pretty flexible on that, so if you're interested, give me a call/email/PM and make me an offer! Located in Wantirna South, Victoria. Cheers, Sam 0425 785 126 [email protected]

I'm aware of how that works - but wouldn't it be better to prevent as much oil vapour from entering the intake as possible? does it actually *need* to be 'drawn out' - isn't it enough to just let it breathe 'naturally'? I'm trying to work out what the 'reason' behind leaving the PCV setup stock and allowing it to breathe into the intake manifold is...

G'day guys, Been doing a fair bit of reading on SAU and other places regarding blow-by, catch-cans and the good ol' PCV valve. For now, let's assume we don't want to vent to atmosphere - i know we probably do, but for this argument, let's pretend we don't It seems there's two trains of thought regarding blocking the PCV. Some say you need to leave it intact if you're not venting to atmo, others say it's best to block it. I'm trying to get my head around which is actually better, and why. The way I understand it, in 'stock' configuration, the PCV allows the engine to breathe into the intake manifold while under vacuum, and closes under boost, when it can breathe via the exhaust side hose into the pre-turbo intake pipe. If we were to just block the PCV, and change nothing else, wouldn't it just mean that all of the breathing would happen via the turbo inlet pipe? Aside from the large amounts of oil that would be pushed into the intake, are there any other issues with this? If we then put a catch can with a decent oil/air separator setup in between the rocker cover and the intake pipe, wouldn't this allow the engine to breathe as required, without pushing any oil directly into the intake manifold and reducing the octane rating? I figure I must be missing something here - mainly because of this: Nissan put a PCV valve in there for a reason - it must be required for something I'm overlooking!

That would have been me:

Spotted WANZI at the High Street Road/Stud Road intersection around 6:45PM tonight - gave a wave but not sure if you noticed me

Coilpacks, o2 sensor

Spotted WANZI turning onto High Street Road near Stud Road around 8:30PM last night

VIC too... and any more than 45km/h over and it's "hooning" which means they impound your car as well as 12 months loss of license... 35-45km/h it's 6months, 25-35km/h: 1 month

Was quite possibly me - I live just around the corner from there, so I'm often in that general area... did it have 'ricer-blue' mesh on the front?

Are you serious? Speed/rev limiters? 1. It wouldn't work - think about it... for safety's sake they would need to set the limit at say 120km/h... that way you could still take some evasive action if required at 100 or 110km/h... so how is that going to stop someone doing 100 or 120km/h in a 50/60/70/80 zone? 2. It would be easily bypassed by the very people it is designed to 'control'... think about it... the majority of the 'targets' for this sort of campaign (if you believe the media, etc) would not be driving a 'stock' vehicle - and this would be a simple mod that would be very hard to detect... 3. It would only apply to new (or freshly imported) vehicles... which is a VERY small percentage of the cars on the road - especially among those driven by the "hoons" (again, refer to the media for details)...