Samon

Multiple people have mentioned it, so even though you're obviously going to ignore this and do what you think is best anyway, I'm going to repeat myself: a 3" exhaust on a 2.5L NA engine is just TOO BIG... not because of the noise (though it is obnoxiously loud), not because of the "drone" (though it will give your passengers, if not yourself, a headache if driven for a long period of time), but because it moves the efficiency range of the engine too high up the rev range. Just when it starts to peak (as much as it can when NA), you need to change gears. 2.5" is the largest you want to go with NA... some suggest 2.25", but as I've had no experience with this I can't comment - I just know that going from 3" to 2.5" there was a NOTICABLE increase in low-down torque resulting in a much more "driveable" car... less clutch slip and fewer downshifts required as the power was where you needed it.

In the same way pretty much everyone considers themselves an "above average driver", 99% of road users don't consider themselves "hoons", so by actively targetting "hoon behaviour", the government gives the public a feeling that they are actually doing something to reduce the road toll. Actively targetting *dangerously* unroadworthy vehicles (i.e. the rust buckets with bald tires, non-existant brakes, knackered suspension, one working headlight, etc) for example, would cause a major uproar, as the media would have a field day running stories of the struggling single mum, the little old lady, etc who can't afford a better car, and it'd never gain any public support. Much more *saleable* to target "those *hoons* in their loud, dangerous cars - they are the scurge of society with their performance tires, upgraded brakes, coilover suspension and of course those menacing pod filters!"...

As others have said... it's a known issue that happens on the 33s... There's a good DIY to fix it here... I did it on mine a couple of weeks ago - perfect

http://www.police.vic.gov.au/content.asp?Document_ID=16502 What is hoon driving? Hoon driving causes a vehicle to travel at very high speed, or in a manner that produces burnouts and doughnuts. Dangerous driving, careless driving, failure to have proper control of the vehicle and causing the vehicle to make excessive noise or smoke are also considered hoon-related offences if they are committed in circumstances involving the improper use of a motor vehicle. A vehicle may also be impounded for evading police, driving while disqualified and for disobeying railway level crossing signals.

+1 When I bought my non-turbo '33 it had a 3" exhaust on it, and it was VERY loud, which I didn't have a problem with really, but it was more the annoying drone that got to me. I got EPA'd for it eventually and got a 2.5" system made up at an exhaust shop, which brought it down to exactly 90dB (the legal limit)... still fairly loud, but NOTHING like it was, and no drone any more. With the 2.5" setup, it certainly had a lot more low-down grunt than the 3" system, which really only started to pull as you approached the redline and was quite gutless down low... not all that practical!

Hey mate, Would you separate the eManage from the harness? If so, how much for just the harness?

Was that at the raised crossing undercover? Was me. Sorry for the confused look, I figured you must have thought you knew me or something I'm not normally the 'typical 33 owner'

What happened?????

You're game, posting something like thaty is just *asking* for trouble

If you're after a cheapo (I've run one in the 33 for nearly 2 years now and it's never missed a beat), see my sig...

I'm probably in... just gotta hope the weather is cruise-friendly...

Hit a Kangaroo at 100 clicks a couple of years back... (thread) $7K worth of repairs later (insurance FTW), and she was all good again.

Charles (Charles89) is the guru... have a look at his thread here... and here's my dash on his blog (Some may say that he's gone a little carbon-fibre-vinyl crazy... and they'd probably be correct )

I was going to spray mine after I fibreglassed in the screen, but ended up getting it carbon-fibre vinyl wrapped instead... Oh, and please excuse the terrible photo quality... crappy phone camera plus my unsteady hands = blurry shots

Autobarn. I can't remember exactly how much I paid for mine last time, but it was nowhere near the $100 mark... more like $30 or $40. They will usually have to order one in, but I just happened to find a store that had one in stock, so I was able to pick it up that day.

'Performance Instrumentation'... just a cheap chinese brand (logo looks the same as Autometer I think it is...), but I have been using one of these for well over a year now in the 33 with absolutly no issues... being a mechanical guage, it's a kinda "works or doesn't" situation... as there's no sender to go bung...

When was this? yesterday afternoon... around 3ish? If so, would have been me

ryda.com.au

Parked behind a white RSfour with a FMIC and BBS wheels today at Southbank... looked nice

+1 I had this exact issue once when I pulled my dash out and forgot to plug the sensor back in... full hot all the time

As many have said - TIRES make a world of difference in the wet... I had some fairly worn (not unroadworthy, but getting down) Falkens on the back of the 33 for a while, and it made the car a real handful to drive in the wet... to the point I wouldn't let anyone else drive it in the wet at all. I was once completely 'owned' by a guy in a Rodeo at the traffic lights, as I simply couldn't accelerate any harder or I'd loose traction when the boost came on. It really wasn't a fun car to drive in the wet. I was a little strapped for cash at the time, so I put a set of cheap Pirelli Dragons (I think they were only around $220 per corner for 245/40/17) on... and wow. It became a totally different car. Traction through all the gears (unless you go stupid of course), stuck to the road like glue through the corners, and overall just became a much better car to drive.

When I got my P's, I did the Murcotts Defensive Driving course, and the instructor was asked about this very situation. His answer: If you're experienced enough to power out of the slide, go for it, but if not, you're most likely just going to make the situation more hairy.

You've answered your own question... if swapping the coilpack to a different cylinder moves the problem to that cylinder, you could be fairly confident that its the coilpack that is causing the problem.

Never mind ^^^^^, worked it out For anyone in the future, there's three little clips on the back edge, you need to slide your hand in from the front (i.e. lower the front end down and slide your hand in) and tap the whole thing now, then it all just slides out

I know, I know, ancient thread revival, but I didn't see the point in starting a new one I've got pretty much everything off as described, the whole lining seems to 'slide' about 3cm rearwards, but it's still holding on by something at the rear window... Any suggestions?