Samon

Is it a 33? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1924978

Black 34 with SAU sticker on the back cruising down Burwood Hwy, Ferntree Gully tonight, gave a wave, got one back.

Sorry mate, only got BAR ones. I was initially after a PSI one too, but once you learn what's "normal" for your car you get used to it.

G'day all, I've got a few of these gauges sitting here that need to go. I'm using one in my 33 at the moment and it's fantastic. I previously had a stepper-motor electronic one and when I accidentally crached the sender I decided to go mechanical. The response of the gauge is fantastic, much better than the electronic type which can lag behind a little when clicking from vacuum to boost. You all know what a boost gauge is, not really much to say, so I'll just put up a few pics... $40 each I'm located in the SE suburbs of Melbourne, but happy to post at buyers cost.

Hmmm... 100% legal might be difficult (or expensive)... but if you are stealthy enough with your install of the SAFC or whatever it would be incredibly hard for anyone to pin you for it...

I'm lucky there... the R33's don't have a boost sensor! (Okay, they do, but it's only purpose is for the gauge on the dash... doesn't hook into the ECU at all) On the R34s I believe this is a problem as the ECU does indeed 'see' boost (or a lack of it without the proper boost sensor and loom). You'd be better to stick with the N/A ECU and then just get some sort of basic air-flow signal adjustment (i.e. SAFC or the like) to compensate for the larger injectors. Wind the timing back a couple of degrees to prevent pinging and you should be fine.

I initially did it using the stock N/A (R33 GTS) ECU with a GReddy eManage hooked up only to compensate for the larger injectors initially... a SAFC would have done just as well... then just wound the timing back a couple of degrees to fix the knock and it went fine. I eventually got the whole motor rebuilt with the smaller turbo pistons so now I'm running a stock GTST ECU with no aftermarket management (rebuild warranty and all that... gonna wait it out then whack the eManage back on and get it tuned) and it goes quite well... I guess as well as a fairly new stockish 33 would have (though with a FMIC, bigger zorst, boost controller, etc).

Price Drop - $850

Somehow I doubt they're standard plates... 'Sick 31' on a loud, clean R31... coincidence much?

Ah, those 'small bendable metal bars coming out from near the turbo' are probably your oil/water lines... vacuum line to the BOV comes from the plenum... looking from the passenger side of the car accross towards the throttle body it's right it the bottom right hand corner, i.e. toward the back of the vehicle. No offence, but by the sound of those questions I'd make sure you have someone who is a mechanic or at least who's played around with changing turbos, etc around before you start it up... don't wanna accidentally miss something and cook the engine or cease the turbo due to an incorrect water or oil line somewhere, or an incorrect vacuum/boost line somewhere allowing infinte boost, etc.

Yeah the 3-4K was for a rebuild with new pistons, bearings, etc... sure you could do it much cheaper if you're using second hand parts... but like mad082 mentioned, once you factor in the cost of gaskets and labour even second hand pistons wouldn't drop the cost that much, as the majority is in the labour.

Audigy2 NX... though If I were doing it again, it'd probably try to find one of the older Extigy ones... mainly just because they run on plain 12V (audigy runs on 5V, but unfortunately draws too much to be self powered from the USB port...) which is easy to come by in a car, and don't even need a voltage regulator! A lot of the guys on mp3car.com just wire them straight into the 12V from the car with no problems. of course if you're going for a mini-atx carPC instead of a converted laptop like I did, then you could easily run the 5V line from one of the molex power connectors from the power supply, but for me that wasn't an option.

Yep... almost NO lag... it's pretty awesome... got a mate with a Subaru Liberty B4 (twin sequential turbos) and even with that I had less lag! Of course as I and others have stated, you're very limited with the amount of boost you can safely run... so you're never gonna reach any crazy power figures, and at the top end even a slightly modded gts-t or most decent stock V8's will cream you, but for a punchy, fun, driveable car it is pretty good.

This is kinda what I did... i.e. converted my RB25DE to a turbo... RB25DE+T... high compression pistons, etc. I threw i an RB25DET ECU and then retarded the timing a few degrees to help prevent detonation. The thing to remember is because of the already high compression, you're quite limited in the amount of boost you can run... i.e. 5 or 6 PSI would be about it... maybe a couple more but you'd need it to be tuned pretty carefully to make sure things didn't go bang... and that means an aftermarket ECU (or copgyback - that's what I did with a GReddy eManage). The other thing to consider, is that if you won't be changing the pistons yourself, i.e. you are paying someone to do the engine rebuild, it can get pretty expensive... I'd estimate around the $3-4K mark for drive-in/drive-out service, In the end, if you've got an N/A skyline, just drive that for the time being and then keep the gts-t setup as it was designed for when you can drive it.

Mosquitocoils, Does your 33 have ABS? I remember looking at some of the DIY threads when i was doing my boost gauge and they were saying to go through on the passenger side... the only place i could find that even looked remotely like i could pass a wire through was behind the ABS controkller... so i went for the drivers side option

You use microfibre/terrytowling to polish... i.e. to work the polish into the lense to remove the tiny surface scratches which are mmmaking it all foggy... then you buff it with a soft wool cloth or polisher pad to bring up the shine... you don't need a polisher but since i had one i figured i'd save my arm Give that a go...

When i first did mine they went all fogged with the placticX ,then i put the lambswool buffing pad on the polisher and gave it a buff, thats what brought up the shine. Did you go all the way up to 2000 grit?

Okay. RB25DE and RB25DET are NOT the same engine with a turbo strapped to the side of one. The DE runs a 10:1 compression ratio inside, the DET runs a 9:1. This is to allow for the extra air/fuel being crammed into the cylinders and helps reduce detonation/pinging. When you removed the turbo, you effectively produced a NA engine with low compression. The lower compression results in lower torque. On the DET, you've got the turbo to help out in this regard, adding the missing power/torque that is lost through the low compression. on the DE, the stock compression is higher to compensate for no turbo. I'd change the ECU to a N/A item anyway to provide better fuel economy and power, though certainly don't expect the same power/response as a stock N/A R33... it's just not the same engine. If you're planning on re-turboing in the future, then I'd just do that and leave it there... it's not actually possible to 'tune' the factory R33 ECU (turbo or N/A), so you'd need to buy an aftermarket ECU (either copgyback such as the GReddy eManage or replacement such as the APEXi PowerFC) and then get that tuned... for the tiny gains over stock I wouldn't think it would be worth the cash. Upping the compression isn't something you can just bolt on or off... the actual pistons in a stock RB25DET are slightly smaller than the RB25DE items, resulting in the lower compression...

My work in progress...

For my boost gauge I ran it through the existing grommet into the drivers wheel arch and from there poked a straightened coathanger through one of the rubber grommets under the dash. Took a little bit of fiddling but got there in the end

Exactly what I was thinking! On a related note, I've got a stock NA 33 ECU sitting here from when I did my +T conversion... for sale This is very true as well. When I did the +T conversion, the higher compression ratio made it a decent amount more 'punchy' down low than other stock gts-t's... limits the amount of top-end boost I can push in there but yeah, just taking off the turbo and leaving the low compression rate will leave you with an engine that is simply not how it's designed to run.

I gave the headlights in my 33 the treatment a couple of weeks ago... and I must say... WOW!!! They really look like totally different lights! They were REALLY foggy, did the 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit sandpaper trick then polished with Meguires PlasticX I think it is... came up looking like brand new! Unfortunately I didn't take any 'before' shots to compare to... Here's a shot from a while ago... not that obvious but see how the front of the lense is very visible... And here's a couple after the sanding/polishing... notice how the front lense is now practically clear? A LOT more noticable in real life... especially when you remember what it was like beforehand... I really wish I took before/after photos for comparison!

Maybe... I've got two HPs, a Compaq, an Acer and a Toshiba and while the audio quality from one of the HPs and the Toshiba is actually not that bad, once hooked up to the DC->DC charger with the engine running there is a noticable amount of audio interference... not TERRIBLE like my Compaq, but when I built this system I wasn't going for just 'good enough'... with the external audio system there's NO interference and the audio quality is in a totally different league... I guess for me, if it couldn't at least MATCH the capabilities/quality of a mid-high end headunit setup, it wasn't worth it... I mean for around the $1000 mark I sepnt setting up my system I could have picked up a fairly decent headunit (probably without GPS, admittedly) which would have had most of the features and a decent audio quality... althought having the PC in there is certainly much cooler and certainly wins plenty of geek points

Personally I'd try to find a docking station/port replicator... that way you can leave all the cabling setup correctly and just unclip the laptop and take it out. The other advantage of this is that you can setup different profiles in windows for 'docked' and 'undocked'... Maybe check eBay? And the audio quality from the onboard soundcard is pretty pathetic... an external sound card eliminates a lot of the interference. I'd expect around $400 for a decent double-DIN screen, about $70 for a good USB GPS receiver, around the $150 mark for a decent USB sound card, allow at least $100 for random cables, etc... Oh and if you don't already have an amp setup for your speakers you're gonna need (at least) one - the power output of a lappy or even USB sound card is only headphone level, you need to feed that to your amp(s).

G'day mate, After a full brakes setup... calipers, rotors, pads, etc...