Samon

I bought an ozito one from Bunnings a while back... it's been great! I've used it quite a few times now for grinding little things down here and there (mainly for under the bonnet of the 'line ) and it's done the trick for me. I'm still living at home, and my dad's a builder... so I've got a fairly decent tool selection at my disposal, so I've never had to use this for actually cutting anything large, for drilling or anything like that... but for tidying up an edge or making a quick modification to make something fit, it's been great. Just my 2c...

Maybe... but that's not 10 minutes from my place When you've got the munchies late at night, a kebab really hits the spot. Of course, the garlic breath the next morning aint so flash, but hey, that's a price I'm prepared to pay Reminds me of this old VB ad...

White S2 R33 at the 'Jumbo Kebabs' caravan in Mitcham last night... damn they're good kebabs!

Yeah... the handbrake is good in a FWD car, I use mine all the time in the Lancer, but on a RWD power oversteer is much more fun

Simple. Step 1: turn steering wheel full lock. Step 2: raise RPM sufficiently. Step 3: drop clutch. Step 4: smile as your turning circle is reduced to almost nothing!

I'm chasing two matching gauges... one must be a boost gauge, preferably mechanical as I reckon there's some things you can't beat old-school mechanical for, and the other I'm thinking A/F? I've got a pillar pod with two 60mm (2.5") holes, and I need a boost gauge (NA+T, so dash doesn't have anything), but the other is just to fill the hole really. Might consider other gauges, so long as the two match. Maybe even a fairly useless gauge like a Voltage one would do. Not looking to spend huge bucks on ridiculously expensive gauges, but don't want rubbish either (i.e. must be accurate and not about to die in a few weeks!) Post up what you've got!

Spotted CAJFLY coming down the mad mile (upper-FTG) around 7ish, then another white 33, coming through the main street of belgrave.

Spotted a midnight purple R32 with SAU stickers on the Monash around 6pm tonight... I was the guy in the white lancer who was taking a look at your ride...

Like scathing said, N/A is actually generally louder with the same exhaust, as the turbo muffles the sound as it comes out of the headers. My N/A skyline was freaking loud when I got it... had a 3" straight-through exhaust, one small resonator and twin cannons on the back. Got done for EPA, got a decent 2.5" system made up with a decent resonator and a proper muffler at the back, brought it down to a nice legal volume. On an N/A, you actually need a little bit of backpressure... 3" was too big... it moved the power (lol if you can call it that on an N/A) too high up the rev range to be useable... with the 2.5" setup the car became much more driveable (i.e. torque down low where you needed it, rather than having to slip the clutch all the time to take off). So yeah, a loud exhaust (esp. on an N/A) isn't always a good thing!

I did the same thing a while back... took the washer bottle out to do something, put it back in withthe hoses reversed. swapped them back and all fixed. or if you're lazy, you may be able to just swap the plugs over, IIRC they're identical, just different coloured on the 33...

At the moment, sorry but no. The screen isn't in the car. It's not too bad... certainly not as good as a transflective... but I guess you get what you pay for...

There's a HQCT (High Quality Compact Tuner?) module available from XTroniC (http://direct.xtronic.be/products/hqct-am-fm-usb-radio.html)... it's not cheap but from discussion on mp3car.com the quality of it was comparable to a decent car head unit...

USB FM Tuner... I tried a few... an ancient D-LINK one, a Griffin RadioShark (AM/FM), and a cheap no-name SiLabs clone... which was the best of the lot! The D-LINK one just plain sucked, the proprietry software that was required for the RadioShark sucked, but the cheapo worked with the SiliconLabs radio software which was used by RoadRunner. I just removed the built-in antenna and soldered on an external socket to hook up to the cars antenna. Works a treat! Only FM mind you, but pfft! Who listens to AM anyway?

Actually I got it on eBay second-hand (apparently the guy had it in his car and it was written off, so he was taking it out as it wasn't gonna be covered by insurance or something) for IIRC just under $200.

I'm using a Xenarc 700TSV... works well for me, and now that it's been molded into the dash surround it looks factory as... looks awesome! I've had no problems with this screen... but the majority of the guys on mp3car.com use either Xenarc or Lilliput (or one of the eBay clones 'SUPER' brand)

Haha yeah it's not the nicest for one-click installation... but it's very customisable. If you just want easy... try Centrafuse or StreetDeck... neither is freeware, but both very good. I went for RR because it was free and because I could tweak it to look and behave exactly how I wanted.

Like a loud 'pop' noise? If so it's just your soundcard isn't gracefully disconnecting when it shuts down Not a lot you can do unfortunately except maybe rig up some kinda relay on the amp power trigger wire to switch it off before the soundcard kills the connection...

From an email I got the other day... And here's some proof that Telstra is recognising the financial crisis and helping out by reducing the cost of many of their overpriced items...

Hey all, After a good condition RB25DET to go in my R33. I've already got the turbo and manifolds if needed, but I'd prefer to buy a complete working engine. Prefer low-kms... i.e. around the 60,000-80,000 mark or over 100,000 if it's already has the timing belt replaced. I also need the ECU/Loom, but if needed I can source that elsewhere. Cheers!

Try installing MapMonkey first... it includes the Destinator SDK http://www.mapmonkey.net/gps-downloads.html Then you install FreeDrive (IMHO it's better to use...) and it will find that Destinator is already there and just work...

Would you consider shipping to Melbourne, VIC? And got a ballpark figure on what you're after for the motor?

I was under the impression that the stock ECU would hit R+R at around 12psi... which makes perfect sense!

R+R?

Ah yeah, that's right... I remember that now... in fact I think that could have something (maybe?) to do with why cyl 6 is dead now... I think cyl 3 died and then the extra load on 6 killed that too... not certain but just a guess... It certainly had a bit of a noticable miss at idle but it seemed to go okay so I thought it might have just been an issue with the tune or something... clearly it was more than that! Hmm... so it'd have a really bad miss...