cactus

Forgot to mention - currently located in Western Australia.

Replaced the CAS and still not luck Must be ECU related.

RB30/25 - $6,000 ono Series 2 RB25 Head (match port/polish) Tomei Poncams (and adjustable exh. gear) GReddy Copy Plenum 550cc Inj. And Billet Rail 6 Boost Manifold GT35R (less than 5,000kms) RB30 S2 block CP Pistons (8.5:1) Spool Rods ACL Race bearings through-out New RB30 crank – balanced N1 Oil Pump Aftermarket Crank Pulley (25% under-driven) Jatco Auto - $1,000 ono From R33 Series 2 KEAS Manual Valve Body Built Box for 800hp+ MV Auto’s 4,200rpm Stall This combo ran 11.2 with just 340rwhp @ 15psi (street tyres @ 2.1s 60-foot, 1,700kg). Genuine reason for sale. Gearbox would have roughly 30,000kms on it. Engine less than 5,000kms. Happy to ship interstate at buyers expense.

Howdy I have a very peculiar issue with my car at the moment. On Christmas day, I was driving home and coming up a large Hill when suddenly my car stopped accelerating and slowly came to a halt. I thought possibly I was low/ran out of fuel, so luckily it rolled into a fuel station. I slapped $20 in, started her up and away I went for about 500m when the same thing happened again. That is, the car is accelerating and driving normally, then all of a sudden all engine power instantly disappears and the car comes to a stop (dash lights/stereo etc. continue to function as normal). After about ten minutes of trying to start/letting it sit, she started up again and I managed to get her home. Thinking it was something electrical, I went over the entire wiring loom and came across a couple of minor things that seemed unlikely to be the cause, but I gave it a go. I took her out again and she was fine. Couple of weeks later I did a track day. Car took a beating and handled it like a Queen all day (a hot day too). Coming home, and this time up a different but steep hill, the exact same thing happened again. I let her cool down for about 30 minutes (as she refused to start) and once cool she fired up and I got home. Have barely driven the car since, but these are the symptons: - car loses all engine power instantly - seems to happen after a long drive when car is warm - only seems to happen when coming up hills - does not appear to be electrical It is tough to replicate the failure as it only seems to happen coming up hills. However, the couple of times I have got it to re-occur, I have checked lift and fuel pump and watched fuel pressure gauge. My old man believes it is possibly the fuel pump (current 044 is quite noisy), but as I said, difficult to diagnose as it happens so randomly. Fuel set up is pretty simple: tank > filter > lift pump > swirl pot > 044. I have replaced the lift pump and checked the pick-up, but all appear OK. It has done it one more time after a long cruise, whilst driving along the freeway (and not up a hill) and on a relatively cool day. Fortunately though it came back to life after about three seconds and I made it all the way home. Some people have suggested ECU connection, CAS and fuel pump. Any thoughts are appreciated. Cheers.

iPhone error delete if need be

Surely someone needs a new donk. Well priced and pretty much brand spanking. Also has adjustable cam gear on exhaust side.

Hi I've got a full engine I'd like to sell including all accessories to drop into car. Would prefer to sell as one, but will to seperate if there is enough interest for all parts. Genuine reason for sale - engine has only been in car for 930kms since build, but an engine combo I've been wanting for a long time has come up and have to get my hands on it. Engine can be heard in car, and I can pass on details of engine builder. Also have most receipts. RB30/25 engine - $4,500ono Engine has only travelled 932kms (@ 2/2/13) S2 turbo block Spool Rods CP Pistons (8.5:1) ACL mains/big ends (standard size) New crank, with crank collar fitting etc. N1 oil pump Powerbond harmonic balancer Cometic 1.2mm head gasket ARP head studs RB25 S2 head - freshened with rebuild (valve steam seals etc) Tomei Poncams - 256 degree RB25 Intake - $1,000ono GReddy copy plenum, ported to suit RB25 head Billet fuel rail 550cc injectors (Mazda injectors I believe) 80mm billet TB Sard FPR Will include fuel lines etc. RB25 Exhaust - $2,500ono 6 boost manifold Garret GT35R (only 200kms old, include receipt if need be) - .82r 0.7c ITS 45mm wastegate EMS Stinger include tune to suit (and all wiring) - $900 RE403A (I think thats full mode number) gearbox - $2,500ono (out of S2 R33) KEAS built box Full manual valve body 4,500RPM Hi-Stall (MV Auto) Box built to handle 800rwhp - can pass on details of builder if required (AllFast in Perth) Previous engine (before rebuild - identical set up) ran 11.4 @ 120mph, 2.1 sixty foot in 1,600kg car. Car was only running 340rwhp @ 16psi and was on street tyres. Never got the chance to take it down on full tune (later made ~400rwhp @ 18psi) with slicks, but obvious it would run a ten. Would like to get rid of everything ASAP. Going to drop a fully sick V8 into the old girl. Dont flame on price, if you think its overstated, make an offer. Ive just listed a nearby price as per forum requirements. Can hear engine running - happy to go for a drive. Located in Perth - but happy to organise freight at buyers cost. Contact me here - or on 0419 000 490 Thanks Matt

Hi - couple of items left over. All located in WA. Item: 80mm throttle body Condition: Brand new, never been used Reason: Don't need it. Bought two and didnt end up using second one (other one is on my RB30DET and is spot-on) Price: $150 Picture: http://www.hiwtc.com/products/73mm-8...5827-53317.htm (sorry for link) Location/Pickup: See below Item: XF Throttle body Condition: Second hand, good working condition. Reason: Don't need it. Bought it and decided to go with the above option Price: $offers Picture: http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index..._Throttle_body (not mine) Location/Pickup: See below Item: Sard Fuel Pressure Reg (genuine, bought from tuning shop) Condition: Brand new, never used Reason: Thought mine was shot, ended up being something else Price: $80 Picture: http://www.google.com.au/imgres?q=Sa...r:20,s:0,i:133 Location/Pickup: See below Item: Exhaust hot dog 3" in to 4" out. Stainless steel. Condition: Used on car for about 2 hours. Clean cut on the 3" side Reason: Didn't work as well as expected and did not suit my car (HQ) - will look good on Jap car. Price: $80 Picture: http://www.google.com.au/imgres?q=st...r:6,s:193,i:25 Location/Pickup: See below Item: RB30 crank - has crank collar piece, balanced etc. Condition: used, needs machine work (mains went, big ends were perfect) - was at 10 thou. Reason: got a new crank free so went with that Price: $150 (crank collar fitting alone is $350, crank isnt bent or cracked (had checked), just needs re-grind on the mains Picture: nothing, but if keen can snap on phone and SMS Location/Pickup: See below Item: Clarion 4-way splits (SCM400) Condition: Used. Were working fine when in car. The two 6" drivers have some center cone damage but does not affect sound. Reason: Upgraded to Hertz Price: $100 Picture: http://clarion.com/au/en/products/20...306870290.html Location/Pickup: See below Item: Bosch fuel pump - one thats smaller than 040 Condition: used, but in working order (was fine on my RB25DET making 390rwhp @ 18psi) Reason: upgraded to 044 Price: offers? Picture: nope Location: see below Item: Hi-stall for RE401/3A - Skyline auto gearbox Condition: Used (approx 10,000kms) Reason: change of gearbox Price: $200 Picture: Nope, looks like standard converter but is red Location: see below All items located in Forrestfield. Shoot me a PM on here and we will go from there. If prices are unreasonable let me know and we will work something out. Happy to help out with interstate purchases (at buyers cost) Thanks Matt

If its really a street car with light track/drag duties, slap in some poncams... Put a set of 256 (8.8mm lift I think) in my 25/30 (GT35R, stock head), piced up 70ish rwhp over the entire rev range.

Well went down to the Nostalgia Drags at the Perth Motorplex on Sunday... a 1pm start time wasn't the best for the car (considering the 36 degree heat) but it was still a good day. I had the car set-up to get my ANDRA licence (tailshaft loop, harness, isolator switch etc.), but when I got down there, for some very stange reason my race slicks and mags were rubbing on the guards - even though I have used the exact same tyres/mags in the past! Anyways, car was pretty good all day considering I was only running the street tyres. Recorded my best time around 6pm when it had cooled down a little - 11.5 @ 121 mph, unfortunately street tyres only allowed 2+ second 60 foot time (I think it was around 2.1 - 2.2 seconds). This is with the car running around 350rwhp @ 15psi. Had planned on getting it tuned to 20psi the week prior, but didn't get my shit together in time. Was a good fun day. Really want to break a 10 though (which I am very confident it will do once I get the slicks and some boost into it).

Well mine does, and so do a few others I know of - has been checked by three workshops and an engine builder. But I'm not going to argue with you about it (moreso the fact I don't fully understand why it is working, but it was the engine builder who did the modification without the feed knowing that it would still work).

I blocked off my VCT line and did not tap an external feed, and the VCT on my 25/30 still works... I know a few people who have done the same thing as I have and their VCT also works as it should.

We did read your thread - a shift kit and a stall is not a built auto. Its an auto with a shift kit and a stall. Good luck making 300rwkw with your stock auto.

And good luck getting 300kw through a stock auto with just a hi stall (sounds more like a more-stall to me though). If you are seriously aiming for that sort of power (which I doubt it will make through an auto) you'll need a built box! Look into KEAS gear - or even MV autos in SA.

Hey Nick its Matt Don (RB HQ)... Best HR31 ever. Remember seeing it on cruise a few years back and fell in love, and still obsessed with it now! Keen for drive!

One thing I would also check .. When you do the ARP bolts up, make sure they are not bottoming out. When I first put ARP studs into my built 25 (and my now RB30DET), I had to use two washers on each stud because they were too long. Yes - quite strange, but it was two different sets of studs and did the same thing each time. The only way I spotted this was when I had finished building the motor, and put in all coolant/oil, it was up on the hoist and I noticed water dripping from between head and block was devestated!

Its a built RB30 - GT35R (.82r), 6boost, 550cc, GReddy type intake, 80mm TB and the usual bits n pieces. Also didnt mention that we didnt bother playing with adjustable gears, so still set at 0 (possibly more power to pick up from this). Response improved slightly, but the mid-range is where I saw massive gains. Makes stupid hp @ 5000rpm and was still making power at 7500rpm (didn't want to push any harder). Will try get a graph up later tonight.

Not to disagree with Guilt-Toy, as he is very experienced and knows what he is talking about... But on my RB30DET - I went from stock cams and 340rwhp (built auto with stall), to the Tomei pon-cams 256 and 8.5 lift (had them measured and yes its odd) and 400rwhp with 2psi less boost. Also ran 11.6 on street tyres (2.3 60 foot). Best upgrade I've made

Its Ovaboost - dyno reads rediculously low. My RB30DET made 320rwhp on that dyno @ 17psi (big auto), but still managed to run an 11.7 with a 2.2 60 foot time. I wouldnt be too worried about the number (assuming its a relatively stock motor). Mick is an awesome tuner.

Enzed

Yeah I guess that must be the case... I got lucky

That is strange. I have a series 2 RB25 in my HQ and I purchased the series 2 Tomei pon-cams and they matched up to the metal CAS fine...

I've got a 2800rpm mall stall from All Fast if your keen... I'm also located in Perth

This thread is getting f**king retarded... You're obviously here to argue and not take on some of the advice/info being provided to you from some very knowledgable people, so why bother starting the thread? Stick to your fully sick Honda's and your 'monster' 400hp and continue to be envious of our Aussie built RB's

Pulled the head off my RB30DET not long ago and when I inspected my bores they looked exactly the same as the photos you have posted. Engine buildler suggested that it wasnt scoring and was actually fuel lining the boors or something like that ... will be interesting to see what you get back from your engine builder. Mine wasn't using much oil.