GTR R32

SOLD!! PM Sent

I can't use "view new posts" either. Seems to be a problem with the search function.

You can get them from UAS in Sydney for $125. www.uniqueautosports.com.au Gary.

It's best if you can keep the diameter of the tyres the same. Otherwise one set of wheels will be rotating at a higher speed than the others, and the ATTESSA system will think you have wheelspin. 245/35/18 = 628.7 mm 285/35/18 = 656.7 mm So your rear wheels will always be spinning approx 5% slower than the fronts. See if you can get 285/30/18 = 628.2 mm. Then both sets of tyres will be the same diameter. Hope that helps, Gary.

I found a table from a Japanese website that had Inconel listed.

Here is a pic comparing the ceramic wheel to the N1 steel wheel. The ceramic is on the left. You can see the difference in the connection to the shaft. Note that they are from R34 turbos so have only 9 blades intstead of 11. Gary

It does look like you have steel wheels judging by the nut. However, you still have the 0.48 A/R exhaust housings so they aren't N1's. The "steel wheel" material is "Inconel" which is a nickel alloy and is non magnetic.

I should just add that I am not wrecking the car. So I pretty much need everything that isn't on my list. Feel free to ask for any engine related parts that I may have missed though. They might be laying around at home.

Thanks Mate!!

I might be interested. Depends how long it will take to receive it. I will let you know by the end of the week. Gary.

Std Oil pump sold.

Here are the specs for the R34 N1's TURBINE: Inducer = 53.85 mm Exducer = 42.4 mm Trim = 62 A/R = 0.64 COMPRESSOR: Trim = 55 Inducer = 44.57 Exducer = 60.1 A/R = 0.60 Lucien, just add the two turbine wheel dimensions to your list. You can see there are some differences. HKS GT2530 Inducer = 53.8 mm Exducer = 47.0 mm HKS GT-SS Inducer = 53.85 mm Exducer = 42.4 mm GT2860/2560 Inducer = 53.8 mm Exducer = ?????? Gary.

Yes your dump pipes will fit.

Bump

I'll post the specs later today when I get home.

Well here are a few things they said about the R34: 1. "R34 turbos are a spitting image of an R33 GTR N1 turbo" - WRONG They are completely different. Different housings and different wheels. 2. "R34 GTR cams have alterted duration and lift" - WRONG The cam duration and lift are the same for all GTR's. The difference in the R34 cams is the "lobe centre angle" (cam timing). Basically the R34 cams are like having R32/33 cams with cam gears set at 4 deg advanced intake and 4 deg retarded exhaust. 3. "R34 cams won't fit in an R32/33 head" - WRONG They sure do. There are many people that have done it. The difference is in the connection to the crank angle sensor. The R34 CAS will not fit into R32/33 cams or vise versa. 4. "R34's have a completely recast head" I don't think so. There may be some minor changes though. I know SK said they have different squish zones. Maybe someone who has properly compared the two can say. 5. "R34 blocks have extra ribbing like N1 blocks to avoid cracking" My understanding is that N1 blocks are actually made from a different material to provide the extra strength. I have a photo with a comparison of the standard block (05U), N1 block (24U) and the Group A block. It's very hard to see any differences. If only I could read japanese better, then I would know. I'd like to see where the extra ribbing is that they talk about. As for the R34 block they are still stamped with 05U and I don't think they are any different. Plus my tuner has seen them crack before. Again if someone has compared the two properly I'd like to know. It's just annoying when rumours spread and then end up in magazines.

I think it will be fine to use R32 and R33 GTR turbos together. If there are any differences in compressor wheels they would be very minor. I'm still unconvinced though that there are any differences at all. The "GT-R Owners Book" I bought from Japan shows the difference between all factory turbos. From the specs listed there is NO difference. Yes the dumps are different though. That particular article in HPI #51 has so many errors in it. Almost all of the information about the R34 motor is completely wrong. Other articles lately have had wrong information too. Unfortunately, you can't believe everything that you read in a magazine.

Sold

wrxkilla - Did you get the photos? N1 pumps sold.

It's a carbon cannister for emissions control. There are three lines to it. 1. Vent line from fuel tank 2. Vacuum line from vacuum canister 3. Line from/to intake manifold It's fine to remove it to get at your headlights. Gary.

Cam covers do not include the centre part. Parts added to list: Brand New N1 Oil Pump - $525 Brand New N1 Water Pump - $275 R34 GTR Injectors - $400 R32 GTR Fuel Pump - $250 Head reduced to $1000

I have the following for sale: N1 Oil pump - $525 N1 Water pump - $275 Price for both - $750 They are both brand new and have never been used. Still in the boxes. I purchased them from UAS for $590 and $330. You can contact me on 0401 136 794 or [email protected] Cheers, Gary.

No it's not bad to run it in RWD.

What Beer Baron said is correct. But the problem with running a switch to the fuse in the engine bay is that you have to turn the car on and off to swap between 4WD and RWD. Running a switch to the fuse under the dash solves that problem, but you also disable the ABS. Most people don't care as they only go to RWD for burnouts etc and don't need ABS.

fsmout: What are the specs of these turbos?? How did you tell if they are GT2560R's??