GTR R32

Wish I had of seen this group buy earlier. When is the next group buy? I'm after a 40 mm. Gary.

Hey Mike, Unfortunately one of my turbos died and the bits of ceramic went back up into the motor. It lost compression on 5 cylinders. I have an R34 motor in the garage waiting to go in. Are you still in Townsville? We still have to catch up!

I received a lot of responses and hopefully I have replied to everyone. Please let me know if I have missed anyone. I have just found out that the crank is an R33 GTR crank, as it has the full length connection to the oil pump. Does anyone know how to tell if the rest of the motor was an R33? Any other differences? I also have the wiring harness to go with the R34 coils.

The R34 coil packs will definately fit but they have built in igniters. This means that you need to modify the R32 wiring to bypass the igniter module and go straight to the coils. I will supply the harness for the coils also.

As far as I know they are the same. I have never heard of there being any difference.

I had a look and although they have different numbers cast on them, they appear to be exactly the same. So I'll make the price the same for both.

The R34 ones are much newer (19,000 km) and obviously in better condition. As for the design I'll have a proper look tonight and let you know.

Updated

I have the following items for sale. All parts are from an R32 GTR (RB26DETT) unless stated otherwise. Brand New N1 Oil Pump - SOLD Brand New N1 Water Pump - SOLD R34 GTR Injectors - SOLD R32 GTR Fuel Pump - $250 Complete head including stock cams - Was 1250, Now $1000 Oil pump - SOLD Water pump - $50 R34 GTR Sump with no diff - $200 2 x Exhaust manifolds - $200 2 x Stock dump pipes - $50 Alternator - $80 6 x R34 GTR coil packs and wiring harness - $200 (built in igniters) 6 x Std Coil packs - $200 2 x Cam covers - $200 Turbo oil & water lines - make an offer Block - SOLD R33 GTR Crank - SOLD 6 x Rods - SOLD Crank pulley - SOLD Intake plenum - SOLD 6 x Throttle bodies - SOLD Adapter between throttles and head - Make an offer Fuel rail and pressure regulator - SOLD 2 x RSR Stainless steel exhaust manifolds - SOLD 2 x Stock turbos - SOLD 2 x Stock AFM’s - SOLD Trust clear cam gear cover - SOLD Front brake callipers (4 pot) and lines - SOLD R-SEC chipped ECU - SOLD All prices are negotiable All parts are located in Townsville, QLD, and can be sent anywhere at the expense of the buyer. Contact me on 0401 136 794 or [email protected] Cheers, Gary.

What power were you making when you ran that time?

600hp: 367awkw is impressive from those turbos! I have always thought they were capable of an output up in that range. But never had any proof until now. I think that is definately enough power to run a 10. Cefiro_PWA: For a comparison, when I first got my car I ran an 11.99 @115.4 mph with: Stock turbos and dumps, 3" inch front pipes and cat back trust pod filters trust intercooler 17 psi boost Jap chipped ECU 217rwkw Then I added a PFC, Z32 afm's and cam gears and it made 273rwkw. On a very hot day when noticeably down on power (intake temp at 66 deg) I ran an 11.6 @ 118 mph. This was still far from the potential of the car. There are many GTR's up here with heaps more power but getting worse times. Just goes to show that there is more to it than peak power outputs.

They are most likely R32 N1's with that compressor housing. The R34 N1's do not have the A/R printed on them. All N1 turbos have steel turbines, only std turbos have ceramic.

For 60 litres of fuel I usually get around 400-450 km (13-15 L/100 km). On the highway I get about 550 km (11 L/100 km). But if I'm really caining it I only get about 300 km. Hope that helps.

The factory hole is under my headlight and was used for part of the air box setup that went to a resonator box. I thought the 33's would have had it too but I could be wrong. It is more like a rectangle hole next to the carbon canister. One big hole is probably enough though.

To answer your original question I drilled a 3" hole below my rear pod. I don't see how it has any effect on the structural integrity on that side. I have two 3" flexible hoses in the front bar. One running through the hole to my rear pod, the other through a factory whole under the headlight to my front pod. Hope that helps. Gary.

If you just want to pass the test then the plate with holes in it between two flanges sounds like the best way to me. Another option would be to get an Apexi exhaust valve. It's a butterfly valve that you bolt between two flanges and it can be controlled by a cable in the cabin. So you can have it closed when you want it quiet or open when you want max power.

I have a friend who has run a 12.8 with a front mount, air filter and 16 psi. Also know a guy who has run a best of a 12.08 with the standard turbo. Although he has the "Dakar" version which is lighter.

Yeah thats what I go by. Its from the GTR owners book.

I'm quite sure the turbines are made from "Inconel" which is a Nickel Alloy. It's non-magnetic and good for high temp and high strength.

They don't look like R34's as they don't have the divider between the turbine and wastegate. They look like R32 Nismo's. Still rated at 320 HP but not ball bearing.

What is the Mapmaker software?

Can you post a photo? Here's a few ways to tell the difference: R34N1's are ball bearing (see if it spins easy) R34N1's have 9 blades on the turbine compared to 11 for the R33 R34N1's compressor housing does NOT have the A/R marked on it R34N1's have a divider between the wastegate and turbine You should be able to work it out from that. Cheers, Gary.

Yes the N1 rods are definately forged and so are the standard rods.

The pistons are not forged, but the rods are. Consider that they are usually sold with N1 turbos, so in theory they should be rated to handle the max power you can get from N1 turbos. I would say if you want more than 350rwkw it would be a good idea to get forged pistons and at least shot peened rods. The N1 bocks are good for huge power and don't have the cracking problems that the R32 blocks can have.

From what I have been able to find the N1 engines have the following: N1 block N1 pistons and rings N1 rods N1 oil pump N1 water pump N1 bearings The pistons are not forged but they use 1.3 mm rings instead of 1.5 mm With the cams, the lift and duration is the same for all factory RB26 engines. But the lobe center angle is different in the R33N1/R34/R34N1. The duration is 240 IN / 236EX and lift is 8.58 IN / 8.28 EX. As for what power they can handle, an example is the mines R34 GTR that until recently was using a stock bottom end and making 630hp. I hope that helps. Gary