GTRNUR

What about the heat? Yes the spot welder does heat the material when its welded, but it doesn't distort the clamp. They look a lot more "factory" than a big agricultural hose clamp too IMO. I've found that its not only internal pressure that blows hoses off. Its also on a quick drop back on the throttle where the bov's don't open enough to release the pressure. I'd estimate a 50psi spike can happen easily under those circumstances. I think that provided it looks neat, there is no such thing as too much overkill. Most modifications done to improve cars performance often results in a decrease in reliability.

There isn't anywhere else I could recommend. I do all my own mechanical and tuning. I would offer to assist but am too busy at the moment. I won't be available for another 2-3 months.

When two clamps are joined together and are put over a join, hose movement and pressure can't blow the join apart as the straps hold the hose together. Especially useful over short joins. This join held 30 psi no problems. There is no lips on the join either, its just a straight piece of pipe. I am not a fan of bolt on hose clamps like those above. They can distort the hose when clamped, pinching it where the clamp closes up diameter and result in an air leak there because of it.

I've been using marine grade clamps. They are the same basic design as any clamp, but better quality. When joining two hoses together with just a short bit if pipe I use 2 hose clamps. One on each hose, and then I cut the third clamp into short lengths of stainless material and have the two clamps spot welded together at the required distance. This works great and still allows a lot of hose movement without any leakage. If my explanation isn't too good I can post up a picture tomorrow.

Who quoted you 5k for that? I figured it would be a day to do the turbo's and exhaust and mafs. A day to do the cams, fuel system and computers and to get a base map in it. And then about 2-3 hours tune time. I'd figure $2500-3K. If 1/2 your parts are second hand though, there is a lot of stuffing around with fiddly extra's. Cleaning everything, sourcing exhaust studs and gaskets etc. Old R32's tend to often have broken exhaust studs that need extraction. The coolant pipes can sometimes need replacing too as they tend to corrode in and can snap off wen being unbolted. If they do come apart intact, all the pipe work should be zinc plated again to provide some corrosion protection. BCR can do this in Cairns.

Is anyone interested in doing a cruise to Port Douglas for lunch on Australia day?

Where did you crack the block? Was it while tuning the car, or launching it?

Was your N1 block using the stock bore size? Where exactly did you crack the block? What fuel are you using?

Well it turns out that its even more responsive than I had thought. The attached picture shows a screen shot of a drive I did today while data logging. 1.3kgcm is the 20K load scale. Full boost was achieved at 3200 rpm. This was the first time I have held it flat in 5th gear to properly load it up, other occasions had been about 3/4 throttle. As you can see from this screen shot, at 3200 its on. I think it will be capable of pumping 25psi by 3500 from the looks of this, which means I will be very close to achieving my low end power goal of 300kw @ 4000 rpm. I tried making a drive video today too but my camera it didn't turn out. I need to buy a go pro.

1/8th BSPT to AN4 is the fitting you need.

I'm driving the car every day again now in order to clock up some KM and put the engine through some heat cycles. There is a little over 450km on the engine now and it is continuing to make me smile every time I drive it. I've got the low end tune to about 80% to perfect, and as a result the throttle response is purely ballistic now. To give you an idea, it will chirp the wheels if you tap the throttle too quickly when idling along in a car park. The boost response with the 6466 is extremely impressive. It actually achieves wastegate boost quicker than a stock turbo'd GTR does. With moderate loads and driving gently, it makes 0.3kg/cm at 2000 RPM. At 2400, its at about 0.5kg/cm and 1kg/cm at about 3000 RPM. Then you have to ease off the throttle or it will threaten to rev past 4 in the blink of an eye. The twin gates currently have 18lb springs installed, and both gates open at only 3400RPM! Its going to be interesting to see what kind of top end the engine will deliver. It seems I could have gone with a 6766 or even larger, and still had ballistic response. That's all for now..

Thanks for the positive replies everyone. I was able to go for a bit of a drive today, and have so far put about 300km on the new engine. It is awesome to drive, with amazing low end grunt. The only quirt I've noticed is that while it has enough torque to drive at 1700-1800 rpm in 5/6 gears, the roughness of the cams don't make it a smooth drive. Keeping revs below 4000 is a challenge, as it seems to want to achieve wastegate boost at 3600. Ive had to lower 10 degrees of ignition out of the map so as to reduce torque should boost get to high. I've got to do something about the noise too. Considering trying an Apexi slip in active silencer to try and curb the drone and bark of it a little.

So when the lowdown want to do a special photshoot for high performance R32 GTR's, are the same group of haters going to posting up crap in that thread as well? Or how about an R33 GTR photoshoot? Way to show support everyone ....

If only this were in 3 months time I'd transport my car down to attend this! I hope it all goes well. Looking forward to seeing some the write-up on the Lowdown.

Second shake-down drive today. Performed flawlessly. Still having to re-work the fuel map a bit, but I have the drive on load area's pretty good now. All going well and weather permitting I'll be going for a sunday drive to put a couple of hundred k's on it. I was able to take a few photos outside of a garage today too.

Partly for more volume, partly for the second set of injector bosses, and also so I can balance the intake throttles independently using an old school airflow balance meter. In hindsight I should have gone with a Nismo one, or gone stock. It was a pain in the ass to get it in there with the extra 10mm height this engine has (in its fitted position). Clutch master cylinder to plenum clearance was non existent until I lowered the engine a little.

In a Stagea block? The main reason for doing the open deck engines is to get better fitment than an RB30 block, but if you don't have to worry about retaining AWD, the RB30's are easier to work with. The VCT can be transplanted to an Rb26 head too, although it also occurred to me that I could make the spacer plate to adapt between a 26 block and a RB25 neo head. Then plumb in the oil for the VCT to the side of the plate for VCT like I already do for head oil supply on this engine. Then I guess there is only the matter of getting a side mount plenum and it would fit a GTR still.

I'll try put a camera in the car for the next drive I do. Even keeping the revs below 4000 its a load of fun. Although I admit that I was having GTR withdrawals too. The new 575 RSR tyres are loads of fun on roundabouts. Grip, grip and more grip, and no understeer! It could be a while till I can put the necessary K's on it. Between the road works happening everywhere in Cairns, and now that its started raining there isn't a lot of good drive opportunities in any direction. The worst example is 6 lots of traffic stops on a near by range to the tablelands. New overpass construction and the start of the freeway style roads up here is happening too. Albeit with Cairns level quality. Bumpy as, and pot holes appearing in the new hot mix surface after 2 days of rain.

Here's a picture showing the breather line setup. When the engine is running, the flow of gas is from the catch can, through the breather lines to the cam covers, down to the sump, out the rear turbo train, and through a baffeled expansion chamber (mounted on the side of the engine block). From the expansion chamber, an AN16 breather line connects to a second baffelled catch can, which then connects to a venturi angled connection on the side of the intake just before the turbo. There are restrictors to limit airflow through the hoses to the cam covers. My hopes is that this will essentially vacuum oil from the head when the engine us operating under boost, as well as pull the engine into a light vacuum in the sump.

Hi Nigel, This engine is configured with the sleeves 20.8mm taller than the standard 24U deck height. Add 1.2mm for the head gasket. Yes the rods are standard SR20DET length, 136.3mm. I finally completed the engine breather setup last Saturday (after waiting 4 weeks for hose and fittings), and got to take the car for a shake down drive. All went very well except that some custom welding that was done to the radiator had a small pinhole leak. The engine already feels very different to drive than the previous motor. It drinks a lot more fuel for any load point too. Very revvy off idle, almost like an RB26 with a stupidly light flywheel. Except that it doesn't fall on its head when you let up the clutch. It just goes. Keeping the revs below 4000 for the next 1000kms. I'm hoping to do some k's over Christmas.

Yes its very quiet. It would be good to get some more enthusiastic gtr owners up here. Perhaps get some weekend cruises happening.

I do my own tuning, but when I need dyno time, Cameron at SVS is the gun tuner for skylines up here. The other place up here with an AWD dyno dropped a friends EVO8 off the side a little over a year ago, and then tried to repair the damage on the cheap. (exhaust and tank damage) Other offerings are single roller dynos. I've heard neither good or bad reports about their capabilities though. Its really hard to trust people's opinions up here too. Seems 1/2 the people in the car scene up here are full of a mix of dreams, second hand information and BS.

The triple is too much clutch for that power level. The triples are all R (racing) clutches too I think, so more like a switch than a clutch. Get the Exeedy Carbon D twin plate. Its far superior to any clutch I've driven, including the Nismo twin plates. (which I fried behind my last engine). Extremely streetable at all times.

Here's a few... and relate to fitment in the engine bay, and compatibility with an existing skyline wiring loom. The DOHC head sits lower than the single cam head. The DOHC head is setup to use multi-coils, not a distributor like the SOHC head. Both require a custom intake manifold, but if you go with a 25DET (you can use a greddy plenum) or 26 head you already have a side mount intake manifold. Don't get too blown away by a power figure. Anything is possible with enough race fuel and boost. This is not a street car engine, and certainly not one built for a skyline. Everything else you need to know is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/

Based on my experiences with GT-RS's on the street with stock gearing, RB26's they come on (achieve full wastegate boost, say 1.7kg/cm) at 5500, RB30's at 5000, and my RB315 was 4500 RPM. Loading up in the dyno is pretty pointless for comparison purposes. I managed 2kg/cm at 4000 RPM doing this, but you could never get that kind of response on the street as you would drive past 4000 RPM before the turbo's could spin up.