GTRNUR

Only the builder can answer that question, unless its a crate N1 motor.

I've not noticed any difference at all between the oil galleries in an N1 vs 05u block. Head flow galleries are the same size as well. The restrictor size is for the most part irrelevant as everyone tend to knock in a 1.1 to 1.5mm restrictor anyway.

That would have to be 2" OD, not ID. Id will be about 38-40mm.

Oil viscosity is affected by oil temp, and directly affects flow through the relief valve. This higher oil pressures when cold.

Sorry I didn't read that part.... certainly a lot safer with a billet pump gear set. The pump will still take more of a flogging due to the increased clearances though.

20W50 will give you a thicker oil film and protect your journals and bearings more but it may not make all that much of a difference to oil pressure at the top end of the rev range. The relief valve is limiting your max pressure. You would need to shim the pump spring relief valve to gain more pressure. You could give royal purple 20w50 a go but don't expect more than a 5psi gain in pressure. Just an after thought, but you may want to consider switching to a Tomei pump anyway. Everyone is aware of the sketchy reliability of N1 oil pumps. When you factor in the wider clearances on your crank, you may be at much higher risk of pump failure. The splined drive in the 3 piece tomei pump will tolerate larger crank main bearing clearances.

What are you working on? Engine, gearbox, chassis, electronics?

Thanks Joe, those pics certainly help. Nick, I've been watching your build too. Nope... And that's not all that's changed. I'll start a new build thread in a few weeks.

Do you have any pics of your wastegate plumbing and gate angles? I have the same manifold and gates, and will be doing the gate plumbing next week. I'm searching for inspiration on where to best route the pipes.

The charcoal canister should only ever see vacuum as the diaphragm that opens it only gets exposed to vacuum at light throttle opening due the a valve on the cylinder 1 throttle. I've heard that sound before, and it sounds more like throttle gasket or shaft seals.

Yes, the 0.050" on the cam card and its documented lift refer to the lift you should see at a specific crank angle. Between these two points is the crankshaft position where maximum lift occurs, which is also where the advertised duration measurement should be.

At BDC 1 and 6, cylinder 2,5 and 3 and 3 are at least 1/3 of the way down the bore. Chances of valve damage are not likely unless you rotated the engine. A hammer... Your joking right!!! The best way to test for bent valves if you have the manifolds off is to pull the cams, and then pump the cylinder up with an air compressor via the plug hole and listen at the intake and exhaust for leaks.

I use just the PLX devices wideband module linked to a power fc data logit in my gtr. Ive also got 2 x EGT probes with sensor modules. Both modules output 0-5 v and the FC datalogit does the calibration/conversion to real values for me. The wideband has a simulated narrow band out, so the rear sensor can be replaced with the wideband, and close loop with 2 narrow bands will still work.

When was your torque wrench last calibrated? Just because its a snap on wrench it doesn't mean its even close to being with spec. They are a pain in the ass to calibrate and get parts for too. Seriously consider having it calibrated again before you do up another set of studs, lest you start breaking rod bolts next.

There is a data sheet that came with the pistons that tells you the correct ring gapping based on application. It is a calculation based on cylinder bore diameter. Yes it does need to be correct, as too much gap means excessive blow by/engine pressurisation. Not enough and you gall the cylinders and damage the pistons.

Well I can say for certain that the N1 block cylinders are no thicker in the cylinder walls than an 05u block. I've recently had one re-sleeved, and all cylinder break through to coolant around 92mm OD. I can't say exactly what diameter it was though as I bored a lot further than 92mm. The thinnest section is between the cylinders. They Rb26 blocks have an oval cylinder with an OD of about 96mm, and 92mm between the cylinders. I have pictures that show this but they also show my new sleeve design so I can't publish them on a forum. In future i'll take some pictures without some of the sleeves inserted. I've said before that there is a chance the N1 blocks have a higher nickel content, but you'd need a chemical engineer to prove this. They may have also improved their casting techniques to remove some porosity a little, but thats more of a hope on my account than anything else. I haven't modified enough blocks to form a propper baseline yet. The porosity is still there in an N1 block, especially around the bottoms of the cylinders where they join into the material surrounding the main bearing saddles. This is part of the reason grout filling helps stabilise the block so much.

Your better off buying a used N1 block that is still an 86mm bore, and then machining it for use. There is a chance you will get a few of the ancillary parts along the way with a 2nd hand block too. My most recent N1 block had the cylinder bores on average 5 thou off centre from the centreline of the crank. You have to bore to 86.5mm at least to correct this.

You get a block, cradle, main cradle bolts and that is all. No coolant fittings, no thermostat cover, no head alignment dowels.

You have a PM

This is a very common issue with metal head gaskets when they have been installed dry (no hylomar spray), or if the head and block weren't surfaced exactly dead flat. Provided your not leaking combustion gasses this is easy to fix. Get yourself a cheap ass ebay radiator or an old second hand one. Fill the coolant system with water, bleed the air and go for a drive to get it up to temp. Shut it down, and VERY CAREFULLY with a very big towel or rag, take the radiator cap off. Give the top radiator hose a few squeezes to get rid of some of the water. Start the car and then empty a bottle of BAR'S Stop Leak (Cooling system sealer) into the radiator. (Lots of auto shops stock this stuff) Top up with water and put on your cap. Drive the car like this for about 2-4 weeks. Then drain the water, flush the system through a couple more times with water (running it up to temp each time). Last of all, swap back in your good radiator and fill with coolant. As a precaution, it would be worthwhile having all your head studs torque settings checked too. This is a cam covers off only job, and is perhaps an hours work at most for a good mechanic. This is an overkill check though, as if something was loose you'd have nothing but combustion gas in your radiator. Not just a little oil.

Was that 6466 result on a 2.6 Bobby? My goal is to make 500kw atw with the new setup, but I'd like to do it easy, perhaps around 22-25psi should be possible with my displacement and head setup. What size and configuration turbine did you use too?

So the short answer is that MAF provides you with a more stable tune. Less variation due to subtle changes in air temp and atmospheric pressures. I'm probably switching back to a 4" MAF and a ford lightning sensor with my next setup for that exact reason. That is unless your going to be doing something radical that uses MAF and MAP...

Thanks for the reply Paul. Your Power FC tech website is down. ForbiddenYou don't have permission to access / on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request. Apache Server at www.paulr33.com Port 80

Does anyone have the documented communications protocol that is used for tuning the Power FC via an FC Edit interface? (Yes I've searched for this but have come up with nothing useful). I want to be able to read all the power FC sensors, and also write new data. An explanation of the memory addressing to alter all the maps would also be useful but isn't needed at this stage just yet. Cheers, Ian

Swap your number 1 and 5 coil packs and see if the problem moves. If it does you know where your problem is. Next, run the engine with the number 5 coil pack out of the head, and with a spare plug in it, sitting on top of the motor and watch for spark. If there is no spark, then its wiring or ignitor. If there is spark you need to eliminate fuel. Swap the number 5 and 1 injectors and see if the problem moves. If it does, then injector. If not, then potentially wiring or ECU issue. Borrow a stock /replacement ECU from someone and see how it goes. Have your tuned map uploaded if need be.