GTRNUR

Stick with the standard pump. The R34 pump is a more efficent design than the old RB30 one. Also the NEO engines are designed to run at 90 degrees. The NEO thermostats open at a hotter temp than the older designed RB26's and RB25's.

Only use a steel shim gasket if your having the block and head shaved so that it is flat. Be sure to spray the gasket both sides with 2 coats of hylomar when installing it. Otherise you'll end up with water in oil of vis-versa. You can't beat an OEM gasket for seal of fluids. The OEM gasket will absorb 3 times the amount of surface variation of a shim gasket. If you combine this with o-ringing the cylinder block, head studs and a propper tune, it will handle all the boost you can throw at it. Im using an OEM gasket, setup with extra crush on the fire ring (o-ring style) and am running 1.75kg/cm boost. I've had it up to 2kg/cm but have run out of fuel at around 5500 rpm. A problem soon to be resolved with a bigger fuel system.

+1. I use a standard headgasket and have a little over 400kw atw. A better upgrade is to o-ring the head and use a standard gasket. Better head sealing with no chance of fluids mixing.

With the coolant gallery changes, it probably means just larger holes exist behind the top row of small welsh plugs. I haven't pulled the plugs on a 24U block to confirm this, but it makes sense as its the only area you can improve coolant flow into the block. The top row of welsh plugs on the right side of the block is the main coolant gallery. Behind these small welsh plugs holes are drilled through the outer crank case, to the inner chamber in the block where the cylinders are. Coolant flows through the drilled holes and direct to the top area of the cylinders, where most of the heat is transferred to the block from combustion. Because the coolant flows in around the cylinders and then up into the head through standardised size coolant galleries (which match all head gaskets), the holes on the top of the block are no different to an 05U block.

I have my doubts that the 24U block really has thicker cylinder walls. From what i've seen they appear to be dimensionally identical to the 05U block. They seem to have a similar cylinder wall thickness to the 05U block with an upper OD of the cylinder wall around 93-94mm near the top of the block. When boring to 92mm for sleeving, the 24U breaks through into the coolant galleries in a few places around the height of the large welsh plugs. I recall reading somewhere that the casting metal used has a higher nickel content, making the material stronger. The porosity doesnt seem to be any better. I hope to have some pictures of a bored 24U block pre-sleeving inside a week or two, so I'll post them up when I get them.

You don't want to step to a smaller size as exhaust leaves your dumps. Either keep it the same size or go bigger.

If you go custom, use pre-made 3" dumps and just get the Ypipe made custom. Chopping up someone elses 3" to 3.5" system and adding a little material/altering the bend angles is easier and will cut down on fabrication time.

I have trust extension dumps on my raised deck rb26. If you install your RB30 10mm lower on the k-frame then they will fit, but you will need to chop and re-weld the y pipe a little. The other side of it is though, I believe they are holding my engine back. A set of 3" midori dumps and a 3" to 3.5" front pipe would be a better option for any RB30 engine.

For copper head gaskets have a look here: http://www.headgasket.com/faq.html And also look at his products page and the compression rings that he makes. They are basically 3-4 thou shim steel rings that go around the combustion chambers/cylinders. Adding a little extra thickness here focuses the head clamping forces to create a better combution seal around the cylinders. The rest of the website is a good read too. The gaskets are quite cheap as well.

Success of a copper head gasket sealing comes down to the surface prep of the block and head, and if you spray the gasket with hylomar to seal it up.... or not. An o-ringed block (and especially if you o-ring the head to create a w-seal) will seal a properly prepped head and block better than any other method. Andrey uses this exact setup along with H11 tool steel head studs (L19 grade ARP stud), and it doesn't lift the head or cross-contaminate the fluids.

Excellent looking engine you have there, and thanks for the pic (found it on the second page). Which engine mounts are you using, and how much have you spaced the kframe down from the chassis rails? With no spacers my engine is 18mm lower than your engine, so if I lower the kframe 10mm there is a reasonable chance it will fit from the looks of it. Ill be using 6 x 440's or 700's and 6 x 1000's with a dual fuel setup. Deleting the booster or removing the option to be able to have one worries me as I may end up with a quad plate and an OS88 box in the car. I'd like to keep my options open rather than end up with an un drivable weekend warrior car.

Does anyone have, (or can they take) some pictures of an RB26 two piece greddy intake installed on an RB26, preferably in an R34 GTR? I am also interested in seeing pictures of this plenum with a second fuel rail, 12 injector setup installed. I need to identify where the plenum is close to certain parts of the car, particularly the clutch master cylinder but also any other areas. Cheers, Ian

Yes the Nismo intercooler is larger (100mm), but a requirement if your aiming for over 450kw. They are a standard part on the ztunes though along with the 35mm core nismo radiator. The key like all things is finding the correct balance (or compromise) so the cooling systems for air and coolant work optimal at all road speeds. Staying entirely nismo you at least get some piece of mind they have spent a few million on R&D to get that right. Where as HKS/Tomei/Apexi etc aren't necessarily doing this. A focus on all out power with little thought or regard for longevity is quite often the focus of many tuners.

I ended up not doing anything just yet, I've been working on a new engine setup over the past few months instead. I have been toying with the idea of putting a thin stock R34 radiator back in there so as to retain the best possible airflow through the front of the car, and then put a rear mounted remote radiator in the car. If I do this it will be incorporated into an aluminium diffuser design that I am working on to protect it from stones etc.

I'm interested in the head also but I need all the details. Valve sizes? Does it include a ported intake balance pipe? What kind of springs does it have? Stock seats machined oversize, or copper beryllium? Was it a new head then modified, or a reco head? What is the combustion chamber volume size? Are the cams R34, or R32/R33? Who built the head, and do you have a machining/work/parts list? Cheers, Ian

Price for postage of the R34 Power FC to Cairns, QLD,4870 please?

Hi Mike, Can you give me a price for shipping to Cairns, 4870? I'd like it packaged inside 2 cardboard boxes so it will ship safely too. (your message box is full too) Cheers, Ian

Smoke tests don't just find holes or split hoses. You may well find an over tightened clamp has pinched the hose somewhere.... I've been down this path so many times before that I don't even bother tuning a car anymore until the intake manifold can be pumped up to 20PSI with an air compressor with just the output pipe from the twin turbo pipe being blocked. The last GTR I tuned the guy was taking back to the same tune shop time and time again... its making less power bla bla bla. Have you pressure tested the intake... (my mechanic said he checked it over...is the response. Most likely a visual inspection of all the hoses and clamps)... Most leaks are that small you can only hear them when everything is very quiet. But for your power loss its got to be a decent leak. The next biggest tell is if you are using MAF based tuning and a power fc. You can compare your old and new fuel maps. If the current map is using a heap less fuel for the same airf low measured, then you definatly have a leak.

By base I presume you mean idle? It will depend on your cams, and if you want it to idle nice... and not stall out when the aircon comes on. I set 20 degrees at a 900 RPM idle, and advance to 22-23 degrees below 900 rpm, and also in the next load cell up. When the aircon goes on, or electrical load increases, the engine produces more torque with the ignition advance and it will auto-stabilise back around 900 again. RB25's advance the intake cam at idle which improves vacuum and decreases lobe seperation making the idle smoother. You'll find that auto's vs manuals have differing idle advance settings too, to accomodate for the load of being at idle in gear with a torque convertor slipping but on the verge of engaging. Im pretty sure the RB30 manuals are 15 as per the manual, and 20 for the autos. Rb25's with VCT change the rules by making the idle more stable by advancing the intake cam. It is then retarded off idle and advanced again for top end power.

Looks sweet Bobby! With the external oil feeds to the head, is it setup that way so you can alter the flow to the head with a restrictor in the line where it shares its supply from the turbo oil out T connection?

Appreciated!

Thanks everyone. Im waiting to hear back from the guy Im buying this for now. It costs nearly $500 in postage to send 20kg to the Ukraine where its going, so if anyone can weigh a bell housing it could be very helpful for us!

You possibly did, but the customer changed their mind. Not so this time. Payment in advance always helps. Please provide a postage price to Cairns, QLD, 4870.

Ok, Im after another one of these RB25 Automatic bell housings.... Does anyone have an old auto box lying around they can take this off for me? Cheers, Ian

Starting speed will be determined by the ECU that is being used. Some will require a full 720 degree rotation to count the 6 sync and one reference before fuel and ignition will be enabled. Others will wait for the reference pulse and start fuel and ignition from there.