GTRNUR

Bearing brand makes no difference. Only your builder will know what the oil clearences are on your crank main and rod journals. Hopefully he actually measured it and can tell you.

Oil pressure is determined by oil viscosity (hot and cold), and your bearing clearences, combined with your pump flow rate which is RPM dependant. Removing the squirters should have very little effect on your max oil pressure when you use a high volume pump. A standard pump maybe... The squirters have a valve in them that only opens above certain oil pressures, so when its hot the squirters remain closed at lower engine speeds when oil pressure is lower. At higher RPM, the squirters open and spray oil, however at higher RPM your pressure is being controlled by the bypass valve in the pump. Not how big your bearing clearences are and if your squirters are open and flowing oil. Oil shot at the underside of the piston crown helps pull heat out of the piston and maintains a more even piston temperature. It also helps lubricate and cool the cylinder walls. An alloy piston expands faster than the iron block, so unless temps are controlled and kept even the in operation cylinder-piston clearences will vary wildly depending on how hard you are driving the engine. Once up to temperature, your piston to cylinder wall clearences will close to 1-1.5 thou. They are generally around 3 thou cold with most pistons, however some special alloy type pistons and coatings run closer clearences as they are able to better manage the heat and thermal expansion. Engines without squirters rely on oil flung from the big end rod journal to do this, but in a highly strung RB I would venture to say it probably won't be enough. Virtualy all of these engines will be non-turbo engines, and do not have to contend with the heat generated from high output forced induction operation. Im not saying it can't be done, but proper steps must be taken with coatings and clearences to make it work and be reliable.

Anyone that has good knowledge of how to setup their after market management should be able to do this. I think where the problem comes in is that the engine management installer/tuner isn't often the same guy as who does the engine build, and its not uncommon for these two guys to not talk. I've done quite a few crank trigger setups, not on RB's but on engines that never had EFI to begin with. I have had a more success using Hall Effect sensors than reluctor, as the triggering event produces a more clean switching signal that isn't dependant on RPM. On one of my engines at the moment I have mounted the sensor through the flywheel cover plate on the back of the engine, and trigger it from the bolts that hold the flywheels pressure plate in place. This was an easy solution for me as I just replaced 2 flywheel bolts with grade 12 studs, and screwed them through the flywheel so they protruded 3mm higher than the surface of the back of the flywheel. The air gap to the sensor was then set with washers under the tag that holds the sensor in place. I have heard of this approach being done on RB's from the other side of the flywheel too, with the reference sensor mounted in the bell housing. Far too much of a pain to install in my opinion, but it has been done. If/when I do an RB with this method, the sensor will mount straight on the flywheel cover as well. If flywheel bolt triggers aren't an option, its no big deal to drill and tap in a few small holes for a few long grub screws to be installed to trigger off. Sync sensors are easy to put in place. With an RB you could use the cam sensor and change the disc. But I would be more inclined to mount a sensor inside the timing belt cover where it can trigger from a cam gear. It doesn't really matter where you have it trigger from, as you can alter your injector and ignition sequencing later to make it run. If I were using adjustable cam gears I'd just replace the 3 of the 4 locking bolts on the adjustment lock with 316 stainless bolts, and trigger off the 4th. I have used this approach as well where a sensor was positioned to sync/trigger directly off the front of a camshaft. Works a treat!

Thanks for sharing Bobby and Brad. Accurate information about this sort of thing is often hard to come by.

I have heard that the Hollinger is usually paired with an R32 GTR transfer case when installed in a GTR. The later model transfer cases are somehow different, and doesn't apparently easily (possibly at all) adapt to the R33/R34 transfer cases. (The person that told me this might have not had all the facts too, as seems to be typical for most high end GTR stuff) I would imagine that becase of this difference, and how the R32 GTR doesn't run a preload on the transfer case it would also make the AWD system slower to respond. Perhaps potentially making the car a little more prone to power over steer compared to the r33/r34's tendancy to understeer. It realyl would be interesting to know if there is a difference. Ive always prefered the R32 to drive to the R33/R34's. Internal sensor switches that detect when the selector forks are fully in the engaged position is definatly the way to go too. By enabling an ignition cut at the start of the shift and re-enabling ignition when fully engaged you will get the fastest possible reliable shift. Potentially faster than a fixed delay too. Safe shift speeds could vary at low RPM and road speeds vs high RPM and high road speeds, not to mention lubrication viscosity, temperature etc. If the OS88 is a no hasle direct bolt in, there is no question as to which way to go. One of these is definatly on my wish list.

Thats CHEATING! For some reason I thought you were going with a 2.8lt. Not 3lt. Unless your planning on running a 2.8 crank with SR20 rods as a high deck... Doubt that though, its hard to beat displacement.

No warm up issues with the clutch at all, although I always drive my car to thermostat temp before giving it a hard time. Perhaps thats considered enough warm up. I don't have to leave home and drive at highway speeds either. Its usually grid locked 60km/h in an 80 zone...

Im pretty sure a 94mm crank won't fit an RB26 block as the sides of the rods would make contact with the cylinder walls at 90 degrees BTDC and ATDC. From memory the 87mm stroke had the rods about 1.5mm from the base of the cylinder walls. The rod ratio would get very ugly too at 1.45. The Nitto 90mm crank will be closer, but the bore is also 1.5mm larger too to help compensate. Ray, Its likely the RB315 will be being dismanteled. I need the head, internals and sump for another engine. The 'plan' is to prepare 2-3 blocks with sleeves and spacers this time (not all will become complete engines initially). Sort of a mini production run. When I finish I can then decide if I want to go further or just look into selling the design. I'd like to have one motor to sell and one to keep at the end of the V3 project, and selling a complete engine with the design makes sense.

Updates... Well the new exedy carbon D clutch makes the car simply awesome to drive now. I've driven the Nismo twin plates, and I think the carbon D is quite a step up on it for drivability as well as improved response due to reduced inertia. It doesn't get grabby if you have to ride the clutch a little should you be reversing up a steep driveway. I've been playing around with cam timing again, and logging the results as I go. The best response setup with the GTRS's I had produced 1.1 kg/cm boost at 3600 RPM. That's in 2nd gear on the road, not a dyno being leaned on with the roller speed locked. That same cam timing also had quite poor top end past 6500 though. I don't know what RPM would have been required to get to 1.7kg/cm as I am doing my cam experiemnts with the boost controller off. This way I can better see the effects of back pressure and exhaust flow changes in the logs. I am very seriously considering a HKS step 1 Vcam setup for the next engine to get a best of both worlds setup. The Apexi 3.5 bar map sensor has also helped get the tune more responsive as it reacts much faster than the GM or standard apexi sensors. Lack of atmospheric compensation is a bitch though. When I drive up a near by range it runs quite rich as the pressure change moves the load PIM value about 400. (not sure if ive mentioned this before)... I am driving the car most days for work still. The engine has about 23,000km on it now. I've had to change back to the much quieter nismo exhaust as the trust single muffler titanium setup tested over 126db. Fortunatly not tested by police! Its nice being able to talk to again passengers too. I've been sidetracked with work, but the version 3 engine parts collection is slowly coming together. An 024u block arrived 2 days ago so I've got to take some time out to do a final measure up before ordering my new sleeve configuration. The new sleeves are a stepped OD configuration to allow the cylinder wall thickness to be massively increased. Thicker at the top, then thinner as the sleeve is pressed into the block where it passes by the main oil gallery in the block. 90mm bore is the maximum size with a 3.65mm wall thickness still retained. Compare that to a 87mm bore in a standard block you only have 2.5mm cylinder thickness at the thinnest area. The version 3 engine will first have an 89mm bore giving me the ability for 2 oversize cuts later. The new sleeve setup also converts the block to a wet sleeve design, which will massively help with heat management. While my engine cruises on the nismo thermostat at 68 degrees most of the time and oil temps are around 10-11 degrees warmer, when I give the engine a hard time the oil temps do get higher faster than I'd like. I put this down to the partial grout fill in the block, as more cylinder heat is being taken away by oil than by coolant. I've got a full counterweight nitto 90mm crank with SR20 journals and a set of nitto sr20 ibeams for internals for the V3 engien. With the 89mm bore that makes 3360cc the minimum capacity and a max of 3436cc with a 90mm bore. Im torn as to weather to use the GTX2860r's or a GTX40-42 on the version 3 engine. I do like the idea of keeping my near stock looking appearance... Be sure I will start a new thread for this when it starts going together. Cheers, Ian

That'll ruin your day... Here's to hoping you just have an air lock in coolant system creating a hot spot and some steam.

PM Sent.

I'm updating the setup in my car again, and want to go for a nismo or arc radiator so as to better improve air flow through the front of the car. Also the Nismo parts always fit without having to modify anything. I believe ARC would be a close second. Is there anywhere in australia that I can get a Nismo radiator?

The car is a 32 GTR and belongs to a madman called Andrey, located in the Ukraine. He holds the euro world record with a 7.82. Its currently an RB30 (factor crank) in an RD28 diseal block twin cam conversion. I have some engine internal specs, safe to say that everything is just really big and strong. The RB30 crank has proved to be the strongest option. Initally he used a 90mm custom crank but broke it when he threw a rod last year. He also trialed a nitto, but after season of racing he pushed the the rod journals out of round. His new combination for next year is going to be interesting... a modified RD28 crank with alloy rods and a 10,000 rpm operating speed. He uses carillo RB30 spec rods with 22mm gudgeons and custom pistons, JE from memory. Some of the interesting stuff is the double o-ringed head (W ring setup) head and block using a copper head gasket. He uses 12mm H11 head studs, 12x1.75 fits the RD28 block. They are normally a cummins diesel after market part. It has never lifted the head with this configuration. He doesn't use a main stud cradle, as the twisting of the block would bind the mains for the power he is making. Instead it uses alloy main caps, with 1/2" arp mains. This allows the block to twist without causing a failure. The block is grout filled to the top of the welsh plugs. Driveline uses a liberty 5 speed, gts4 diffs and some very strong axels. The low boost (26 psi from memory) made over 1100hp on the dyno on 140 octane fuel, but they have trouble keeping it tied down. They run low boost in the lower gears and increase to 32psi in 3-5th. Estimated over 1600hp.

Yeah... about 1600hp and one too many 8000 rpm launches... Thankfully not my car!

These are the parts I am replacing. From what you can see the sheared off shafts are still jammed in the diff gears too.

Im after a paif of R32 GTR or GTS4 CV drive flanges, and also the front and rear 4.375 diff gears. PM me a price including shipping to Cairns, QLD, 4870 if you have what I need. Cheers, Ian

Do you have a copy of your d-jetro map that you could email me? ian @ isit.net.au I use a d-jetro and see around 180-200km/tank if I drive like a nutter. Best on the open road is close on 8-8.2lt/100km now. Have you adjusted your cam timing with gears? If so, what are your new settings. What is your cruise speed and gear generally...?

If you have time to glance at the boost gauge while driving the car hard it means your not running enough boost! I'm biased towards my Apexi AVCR because they are so easy to setup and get consistant and stable boost control with. I find the display, and recall peak are all I need and combined with a power fc and datalogit you don't need anything else. Ive heard the Blitz controllers are comparable but have never used one.

Nope. NTFS Recovery will read FAT/NTFS either way.

The bad sectors are telling you the drive is dead, and if your unlucky the damage is in the directory or fat area of the drive. Check your PM I'll send you a link.

Pretty cool looking interface. I had not seen Centrafuse until now. You have inspred me to put in some more effort with the icons and menus for my mfd. I've just learnt how to embed animated GIF images in code, so I can put them on top of tile style buttons much like the centrafuse system does. Also, Windows Embedded Standard 8 CTP3 release was released today. Definatly worth a look as a touch screen based application that can stll run all your Windows apps. How does your Garmin GPS product work and where can I download a copy? I've got a couple of Windows CE based GPS systems that were obtained from the last two sat nav systems I had in my car, but CE apps won't run on Win7/8. Cheers, Ian

Looks like you have a good foundation there. It takes forever to get somewhere with this sort of thing unless you can work on it full time (or are a much better programmer than me), but once you start making progress and have a framework built it becomes a lot of fun and can evolve very quickly. I don't have a build thread for my project, but once im comefortable with how it looks I will post something up. If you start a build thread, please send me the link. Its always good for inspiration seeing what others are doing. I am guessing you need RS232 for talking to an ECU or something? Old school style USB that is part of the main board and that which uses an 550UART standard for comms is the only way to go if you must use RS232. Most of the USB converts out there are crap, as they use a software based interrupt for handling incoming data. That is why they perform so slowly. I've gone down a different road and run my RS232 comms through WIFI with IP using a TCP/P to RS232 converter module. I initially trialed some bluetooth RS232 ports, but they have the same issues as the USB converters. As well as the other crap you have to deal with when using bluetooth.. (the will it work today or not situation...). IP jas very low CPU overhead, so everything is extremely fast. I had the opportunity to play with a windows 8 tablet a few weeks ago, and the new Windows Thin os that is being released as a FREE OS will be pretty much perfect for this sort of R&D. Microsoft are releasing a basic shell version of their W8 OS to allow it to be installed on old hardware, to enable them to be used as thin clients for terminal servers and virtualised PC/APP access. The beta's are available for download already from MS.

I'm working on something similar at the moment using a zotac box. The quality of the unit is pretty good, 1.8ghz atom, 4gb ddr3, ssd, wifi. Im using windows 7 at the moment, but the new windows thin/windows 8 embedded operating system shows primise being that its a tablet focused operating system. It runs off a 12v-19v power supply. The unit comes with a dock that it locks into, and ejects with the press of a button. Its thinner than a carputer and is more eaisly mounted under a seat. http://www.ebay.com....tm/370636018698 Im using a 7" 1080p hdmi touch screen with it. It seems to work pretty well too. The only thing thats annoying about it is that the plugs hang out the side of the screen a little. http://www.ebay.com....tm/370636018698

Nice work Paul. Good things take time.

Thanks Paul. Thats what I was looking for.