GTRNUR

I like it! Nearly looks like an RB26. The only suggestion I'd make would make would be to haven an align bore done on the mains. Shave 1 thou off your cradle, install your main studs, and then re-align bore the main bearing saddles to make sure everything is straight. Then do the rest of your block machining.

Thanks! Woo Hoo, Nerds win in the end!

In your case Ash they'd retard the ignition which would make more doey to drive when its hot, and not as fun when its cold...I'd rather have surge than shuffle. Shuffle can be seen on a data logger when the airflow values read from your twin maf sensors wildly fluctuate. I had big problems with this at around 1800-2000 rpm with my GTRS's as they start making around 0.4kg/cm under full load at this speed. However as exhaust flow isn't enough to spin the turbo's up to wastegate opening speeds, and the engine is running in a vacuum at the throttle bodies the effect is that one turbo will spin up and stall the airflow into the other. Once this happens the exhaust pressure in the stalled turbo swings the shuffle the other way. The GTRS's suffer for this because the compressor is too big for the turbine. This is why a HKS balance pipe exhaust manifold helps dampen the effect. Also it explains why the split/baffeled twin turbo pipe helps so much, as it allows air velocities out of each turbo to be established before mixing them back into one air stream before the intercooler. For me, I still get shuffle if I stand on the throttle in 4th at 2000 rpm. It will shuffle (till full boost at 5000 rpm), where exhaust flow and back pressure is sufficent to overcome the shuffle effect. You can drive around this though as really you'd drop back to 2nd or third anyway if you wanted to go faster. Surge won't effect response, in fact surge is the result of too much response (for a given engine speed). The turbo's are being over driven by exhaust gas flow for a given engine speed. The rate of airflow into the engine (from the filters to the intake valve) is below what is the optimal air speed for the given compressor speed. The effect is your turbo makes terrible sounds as the airflow stalls out and bleeds back to the intake of the turbine housing, which can lead to turbine damage. I hope that makes some sense. Im operating on minimal speel and 2 glasses of red at the moment...

Matt Tang was telling me his vcam RB28 would push the -5's into surge occasionally. A combination of the added displacement providing a little more exhaust flow than a 26, and vcam inducing more overlap to to gain more mid range torque earlier in the rev range. The advice I heard Racepace gave Matt was that the surge could be tuned out, but at the expense of low end torque, most likely making the vcam retard the intake earlier. So what we can take from this is that if your engine is optimised to the limit, even -5's will push into surge. (I'm talking surge here, not shuffle... don't confuse the two)

Just to be clear, your talking flow from a polished port vs fuel atomisation from a rough cut port right? I figure the rate that Paul's car drinks E85 it probably won't make a lot of difference when its on song. Its not as though there are a lot of injector options to provide a streetable 2lt/min injector flow. The value of optimising fuel atomisation from porting/polishing methods could probably be weighed against the options available for injector spray patterns for similar effect.

Ah, I didn't realise the miss was there before the plug swap. In that case... you can try close up your plug gaps a little and see if that makes the miss go away. Also, the checking for air leaks still applies. Even split vacuum hoses, like the one from the back of the vacuum manifold that goes to the MFD map sensor can cause a sufficent enough leak to cause a miss. If those checks fail, then I would also be inclined to think coil packs. Buying a set of splitfires to diagnose straight off the bat is a bit excessive IMO.

I'll be different and say, virtually no chance at all its the coil packs. You changed the plugs and it developed a miss. Therefore thats whats wrong. Did you try your old ones again? Try that first and see how it goes. What are the plug codes on the new plugs? I've used BKR6EIX with 22lb boost and 0.8mm gaps with stock coil packs, 470+hp atw no problems. If your tune is right they won't foul up. Check you haven't left a hose clamp un-done if you also had part of the intake system apart recently. At 2500 RPM the turbo's start making a little boost. If you have an air leak post turbo's, it will run rich and can blow out the spark as a result.

File factory isn't letting me download your map. If your air temp compensation is turned off, the ecu won't apply any corrections. THis is pretty typical of a lot of wolf ecu's ive seen installed. Its worth sorting out though. You should be using internal MAP, not the MAF sensor. The hydraulicing issue is a serious one, and is probably something else. With the ignition off unplug all your injectors. Then turn the ignition to ON, and plug in one injector at a time. If you hear a click on any of the injectors as you plug them in, your wiring has issues. Injectors should remain closed unless the engine is running. PM me a list of all your modifications, injector sizes and your email address. See if you can sort out that download link too.

Are you saying that it litterally locks the engine by filling the cylinders? !! That is not an ECU issue. More likely you have an injector stuck open, probably due to incorrect wiring. The V400 running a 6 cylinder will have to run 2 injectors on each of the first 3 injector channels, so they run as either a batch or semi-sequential arrangement. No single map will be a plug and play solution for you. Cam sensor configuration will dictate how it works too. Upload a copy of your map I can check it out for you.

Yeah the lack of PS was the main reason I wasn't too keen. Sucks the pump didn't survive. I don't think there is such a thing as luck with performance cars. You can just count on everything going wrong when you least expect it too.

Keen to see what changes you end up making Paul. Looking at the dyno sheet I should have taken you up on that test drive offer too. How does the crank journals look? Considering the mains still look reasonable (despite particles), i'd imagine they look ok if the nitriding has held up. Were you using cut back valve stem's? Just wondering what caused the valves to make contact... Did the belt slip too? You didn't say what brand of pump that was either...?

I think the question that determines which way you go is how often do you drive the car. A lot of k's will mean WMI. I'd like to see someone try a little straight water with E85. You would spray 1/2 the volume that you would if using a WMI setup for the same power level. Around 400cc for 400kw atw. The advantage I see is that you could run the E85 tune a lot leaner, into the 12.x:1 range. Which will help a little with fuel economy in the long run. I can't remember exactly, what he told me but Piggaz's car drinks E85 at a pretty alarming rate. Well over 10lt/minute at wide open throttle. From what I understand about E85 tuning, rich AFR's under full load are needed to help keep detonation at bay and also to keep things from getting too hot. In this way E85 tunes more similar to pure methanol burning engines than ULP.

Cruise speeds mean lighter loads and less fuel pressure. Less load on the pumps, allowing them to operate without generating as much heat. All your extra plumbing and surge tank will help eliminate heat from the fuel system as well to a degree, but ideally you would have a cooler on the return line. It would be interesting to see what your fuel temps are after sustained operation at high loads when the pumps are really working. The big bosch pumps get noisier when they start to cavitate as they boil the fuel. You won't notice this as much with two pumps as its partner makes up the shortfall in flow when this starts to happen.

I would have thought the only approach to do this would have been to build up the sides of the block gradually, so that discimilar metal thermal expansion variations are minimised. Thereby minimising the creation of stresses in the added material. It would have to be oven heated to do the welding to do this as well. It doesn't look like there is a taper on the mild steel plate where it was welded to the block too. A thicker fillet weld between the block and the plate will increase the chances of this working if you couldn't get the metalurgy 100% correct. Welding it with a lot of current/heat to get complete penetration into the join might complete the weld, but it creates stresses all through the cast and added materials. Weather it holds up is anyone's guess. You won't know till you try it.

I wish... Only Vspec II Nur R34's have the 24U N1 block. The rest are still a 05U casting.

The R34 gtr ecu's are key coded, so you don't want to go down that path unless you are using a power fc or other after market engine management. Your better off with an R32/R33 ecu and then reversing the pin order on the CAS, keeping an R34 CAS. The engine block number will be able to shed some more light on the engine type. R33 numbers started at RB26-0479xx R34 numbers started at RB26-069xxx http://webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=47:engine-number-register&catid=42:engine-number-registers&Itemid=2

Yes it replaces the loop. Everything you need to know is in the part description here... http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-stainless-braided-clutch-hose-bnr34-r34-12334 You can probably source it in australia easily enough though. I've seen them on Ebay occasionally and just jap or high octane probably have them in stock too.

Anyone that does brake system reconditioning work such as caliper refurbs etc should be able to do it.

There is some good info on the aquamist forum about longevity of pre-turbo systems and wear on the impeller. Long story short was if you inject it correctly as a fine mist and have a good shutoff system there isn't an issue.

Water injected as a vapor is still an uncompressable liquid. This alone is the primary reason dynamic compression increases. What happens with cylinder pressures when the water turns to steam during combustion doesn't relate to dynamic compression. H2o can not dissociate into base elements from pressure alone either. In the combustion chamber it just expands a lot due to the 950+ degree combustion temps. Yes water increased all the time would increase power in theory. The problem is metering it correctly so you inject the correct amount per cylinder for ligher loads. If you consider that 425cc/min is correct for a 700hp 3lt 6 cylinder, the correct single nozzle size for the same engine making 45hp is 36cc, or 6cc cylinder. So you see for light loads the issue is getting accurate delivery to each cylinder without the nozzles blocking. An alternative solution that I have read about for lean burn/economy tuning which might partially solves this issue is steam injection. Injecting as steam allows nozzle sizes to be larger. It also allows distribution to cylinders to be more easily achieved from a common injection point. Steam injection temps are high (say 150+ degrees), but still much less than combustion temps. Steam temps would also drop as they approach the engines intake valve and at the same time raise both the dynamic compression ratio and the effective octane rating of the fuel. This is a completely different concept to performance tuning with WMI though.

They don't drop noticably at all with the new nozzle sizes. I still see 800-810 degrees if I hold it flat past 7000 rpm. This I suspect is due to the reduced volume compared to my last setup. There is perhaps 1-2 degrees more of advance in the ignition map with this setup, which is a nice safety buffer if I want to give it a hard time in 40 degree heat.

I've recently enabled my wmi system again. This time I am using 2 x 150's pre turbo and a single 300cc in the intercooler return line(600cc total, previous was about 800cc total). The pre turbo nozzles are to to drop air temps and improve turbo efficency, and post turbo to increase the octane rating/reduce knock. I use solenoids for each set of nozzles. Ideally you want to have them as close to the nozzle as you can. Otherwise you get a dribble when they shutoff, as the plasic pressure hose does expand a little under pressure between the nozzle and solenoid. Dribbles are not good for the health of the turbo impeller wheels. I can consistently log at least 15 degree air temp drops on the standard GTR (heat soaked) air intake sensor. As the sensor is too slow to react and the temp doesn't stabilise I really have no idea how low it goes. The 50/50 mix doesn't appear to be affecting my AFR's at all with the current tune of 1.3 kg/cm boost. I am only injecting after 12lb manifold pressure (switch), as my goal is really to lower air intake temps when on boost, not to elevate the octane rating. I'd be using a progressive system if I was aiming for more power through more ignition advance. There is no hesitation or noticable blip as the system comes on. (The previous larger nozzle setup I suspect would cause a momentary ignition flameout below 4500 RPM). I will be able to produce some back to back dyno results next tune session to see how it responds with no tuning alterations. Based on the data logging of FCedit, knock is a little lower on average. To get more of a gain I think I should be injecting closer to 400-450cc before the plenum to get more of an octane boost effect (and have a progressive controller). Most of the spray from the 2 x 150cc pre turbo injection will be evaporating completely before it gets to the engine. My previous nozzle configuration that injected 520cc post intercooler allowed 5-6 degrees more across the map when on boost(but had a ignition flameout issue occasionally). As per the Aquamist forum information, the apparent ideal ratio is 25% pre turbo, 75% post turbo. This seems to work for me. WMI injector size is 15% of total fuel injecton flow at full load. (Total injector flow) x (Injector Duty) * 0.15 = WMI Nozzle size Eg: 6x700cc = 4200cc of BP98 pump fuel. 4200 x 0.90(duty) = 3780cc. 3780 * 0.15 = 567cc. Which means 140cc pre turbo and 425 post. Injecting WMI does initially lower EGT's, but as someone else has already stated, it will also lower power as you are slowing down and cooling the burn. Its the same principal as running a street tune on race fuel, or just retarding the ignition of your street fuel tune 5 degrees. Ideally you would tune the car for max power without WMI and aim for a target EGT, say 800-820 max at the dump pipes. Then turn on WMI and advanve the timing till your EGT's average the same and your knock readings are back to typical.

Keep the standard slave cylinder and just re-sleave it. Once its fitted with a stainless sleeve it will out-last the life of the car. The Nismo one has reduced throw due to having a larger piston bore, and can lead to problems like you are already having. The braided hose is really going to help you bleed it properly. Standard copper mix clutches handle 400kw easy. They rate them as a 600ps clutch (around 590-600hp). There is a competition version that is rated at 780ps if thats not enough. I've got a modified early version in my car and its still mild enough to drive to the shops or in slow traffic. Edit: All slave cylinders "push". Its the operation of the throwout lever moves the throwout bearing that determines push or pull type. R33/R34 and some late R32's are pull. R32 are push.

Have a look at getting your slave cylinder re-sleaved. Its probably leaking past the piston and reducing travel at the throw-out lever. The master cylinder can also need attention, but usually the slave is in worse shape. Also bleeding these can be tricky, as they have a loop for "cooling" the clutch fluid... which creates a nice air trap. Look for a block with a bleed fitting located directly down and back a bit from the clutch master cylinder. The only upgrade worth considering is swapping out the loop and stock plumbing for the nismo braided hose that goes directly from the master cylinder to the slave. Push to pull conversions relate to using different types of clutches in the R34 gearbox. All require gearbox removal. None would use a cable. They are all hydraulic and all use the booster so that your pedal doesn't feel like your driving a 5 ton truck. The stock systems work perfectly when they are in good condition.

I was reading about the new version of the HKS Vcam system last night. This is probably old technology for all I know... http://www.nengun.com/hks/valcon-ii-rb26-v-cam-system It seems like an easy way to go to get the wide power band without having to engineer your own VVT system. This setup, some step 1 springs and a ported head is looking to be the top end recipe for my next engine.