GTRNUR

Preparation to assemble the next engine is under way. Waiting for parts is the current game. These came in a few weeks ago. Annealed Titanium 3D printed fire rings, replace the stainless wire O-rings. This change should make for a 100% street-able copper head gasket / o-ring setups. The cool part about these rings is that they are actually not a round cross section. They have a square edge base in the o-ring slot and a sharpened radius on top, as well as clearance to allow for thermal expansion differences between alloy and titanium.

Motive DVD took some nice photos of Mercury Motorsports S15 with the RB33 at Jamboree. https://www.facebook.com/MotiveDVD/posts/10155636991352354

There should be 2 links to facebook hosted videos. I wasn't sure if that was going to work or not but the videos are both public. https://www.facebook.com/tessawhyte1/videos/10213056819396433/ https://www.facebook.com/tessawhyte1/videos/10213832121898511/ These links might work better.

A little update with the progress of the RB33. Check out the S15 build.

Has anyone ordered from Full Race in the US recently? How did you go with import duty and customs, or was it sent USPS and somehow slipped through ? I'm about to make a purchase and am contemplating purchasing from the US direct, but if it gets nailed at the border the price saving will probably evaporate...

My gen 1 6466/1.0 maxed out at 525kw atw. Made that power at 5250 rpm and held it to a little past 7000 on my 3.4lt.

There has been big developments with the project. Towards the end of June I completed and delivered the rebuilt RB33. It has been run a few times and initial indications are that it should perform very well. The engine is in the process of being installed in a new car, and should be driving in just a few weeks. I re-designed the entire sleeve and spacer system for the revised RB33 to increase its overall strength. The new spacer is now made from alloy like the RB34/v3 design. 100% CAD/CAM manufactured, and uses o-rings for all sealed surfaces. Gasket-less seals make for a more stable upper deck and more overall block rigidity. The spacer and sleeve system are is now a Siamese cylinder arrangement, and are interference fit/assembled using a somewhat complicated method using hot tanking and dry ice. This process makes the effective upper deck and sleeve thickness achieved with the extension much thicker and stronger than before. I was able to retain some of the OEM oil returns with the new setup, although the RB33 build is using a 2 stage external pump/wet sump setup which incorporates a scavenge stage as part of the method for extracting oil from the head. The cooling systems for the head and block are still isolated with this new design, with coolant extraction through the spacer plate, and externally plumbed coolant flow to the head. I can't wait to hear the engine run again. You can be sure that a lot of video will be posted when it does.

All good, just sourced everything I needed. Locally too!

R32/R33 CAS and OEM FPR Needed urgently, an R32 or R33 RB CAS. Can be from any RB20/Rb26. Also need an OEM Fuel pressure reg.

Hi Michael, Check your PM's. Cheers.

RB26 Coil pack mounts I'm after a pair OEM alloy RB26 coil pack mounts. I need them ASAP, so please be willing to Express post/airbag them if you respond.

Rb26 Cam covers I'm after a pair of Rb26 cam covers. Not after anything fancy. Couldn't care less if it was painted or not. No dents though. I only need the cam covers, not the timing belt cover but will take that if I have to as part of the deal. Cheers, Ian

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Yes, stay with the 30 pump. Its not just about flow rates. Having the capability to deliver pressure is also a factor, as the head becomes a restriction at higher engine speeds. This means that as hotspots form in the head and a gas pocket begins to expand, the pressure can keep the gas pocket small and move it on out of the engine to a cooler area (radiator).

Do you still have an R32 RB26 CAS for sale? If so PM me some paypal details. .

One more thing, my fuel temps dropped 15 degrees when I changed from constant pump speed to injector duty based PWM pump speed. Well worth doing.

I'm pretty sure those fuse holders are rated at 30A. Also its not the first time I've seen them melt either. I was using the same holders with 20A fuses, one for each pump along with injector duty based PWM pump speed control. Same result, melted holders. Your better off using a high current 3AG or 5AG inline fuse with the spring loaded ends. https://www.jaycar.com.au/high-current-in-line-3ag-20a-fuse-holder/p/SZ2016 or https://www.jaycar.com.au/5ag-60-amp-in-line-fuse-holder/p/SZ2065

Hey Prank, Can you please change the name of my build thread to: Rb34 / 24U (Rb26 + 800Cc) - Project RB high deck engine (and related builds) I've changed the R&D business name to Project RB, and also the engines have not been open deck in design since the v3 engine. Cheers, Ian

So it turns out the last block I machined had been in a car accident, and event though dye penetrate tested a crack next to the engine mount was not found until the engine was started and the leaking of fluids began. I've been madly sorting out a new spacer plate, have purchased a new N1 block, sleeves etc, so I can prepare a new block and transplant all the components for the RB33 pictured above. I have an RB32 in an 05u block with a platinum racing girdle ready for assembly. This will most likely also end up as a "test" engine, as I need to evaluate the reliability of an 05U block after it goes through this conversion process. At this stage I still do not know when a sales/production run will be done.

Fixed it, and it was more simple than I had thought. ECCS relay power comes from the fuse box at the back of the car, being constant/unswitched power. Who knows the odds of blowing an IGN Electrical components fuse and a rear constant power fuse at the same time. Possibly something to do with my upgraded ignition/haltech or all of the above. Either way who cares, so long as I can drive the car again!

R34 GTR ECM/ECCS Relay power source Hi Everyone, For some unknown reason my ECM/Coil relay is not getting its supply power, as such the ECU is also getting no power on pints 49/59. I have spent days trying to locate the reason for this and need some assistance in confirming a few things regarding R34 GTR wiring. First thing of course was that I've checked all the fuses. Initially the top row-left use (10A Electrical components fuse) was blown. I replaced it, and it has not blown again since. The ignition circuit that switches ground to one side of the ECCS relay is functional. I have tried hot-wiring power to the ECCS relay by connecting pin 3 to +12V, and the relay operates as it should and the ECU powers on properly. So there's my fix should I give up on fixing this issue properly. The next thing I started to bypass was the aftermarket black widow alarm system, as I suspected the immobiliser relay may have gone open circuit (although it does click). Bypassing most of these circuits, (and confirming the immobiliser relay was actually switching) was easy to confirm. Still no go. Yes I run a Haltech ECU, which in theory ignores the factory immobiliser. But the immobiliser is still in the car, and there might be a fault with it. Does the factory immobiliser isolate the ECM relay? Other than at the fuse box, is there another place in the car that I can check the power to the ECM relay? Other than the alarm install, the loom is relatively unmolested. Any idea's or suggestions appreciated. Cheers, Ian

Is it possible to find out what car an engine block has come from by its serial number? RB26 077609A Its a 24U block. Cheers, Ian

At this time there is only one more build in progress, and it is an RB32 (87.8 x 88mm), not an RB34. But it should be ready in a month or 2. I have made some changes to the design as well (again), due in part to the rapidly rising cost of the 24U engine blocks. Frankly $5300 AUD is completely out of control for an engine block. They are not that special, and when you consider how much I machine out of the block anyway they aren't worth it. So to bring the costs down again I am building the next engine into an 05U block, with identical sleeves and spacer plate to the first RB34 plus the addition of ARP2000 mains and a platinum racing girdle plate. I've also changed the grout-filling method. I'll be filling the lower section of the block with hard-blok and then cap it off with industrial composite resin. This instead of completely filling the block with resin will reduce costs a little and be just as strong. The resin cap will prevent grout erosion and blocking of coolant galleries over time. I've been able to make some great industry contacts over the past 12 months. As such all engines will be using Carillo rods and billet crankshafts made to order by a manufacturer of Pro Stock crankshafts in the US. Ironically this works out cheaper (and better) than re-engineering a Nitto crankshaft, even with the exchange rates. Depending on how the next round of testing goes, I will be looking at doing a production run of 5 x RB34's. Fingers are crossed for the future.

Hi Mike, The sleeve design still requires a spacer of some sort to support the flanges at the tops of the sleeves. Consider the Darton Rb26 dry sleeve kit. They recess 5mm of flange thickness into the upper deck of the engine. When you consider the OEM thickness of the upper deck is not all that thick to begin with, this puts their outer diameter of the top flange VERY close to the coolant galleries. The only way to get more bore thickness is to run a thicker flange and thicker sleeve OD below the flange, meaning significantly more OEM deck and bore material is removed. The high deck sleeve approach retains deck integrity by not machining material from the OEM deck, and instead sits the flange on top of that OEM deck, vertically supports the deck from stresses due to the interference fit of the base of the sleeve into the material in the block between the mains. The risk of removing supporting material in the OEM deck is that the deck will probably crackwhen the head studs are torqued up. Consider how torqueing head studs distorts a cylinder bore, it does equally horrible things to the cylinder deck surface. Especially with studs that hold 125-150ft-lb like the ARP625's. Head stud anchoring material is both under the stud supported by the sides of the block, and also across the top of the OEM deck. As I see it, you would need to have 10mm of flange/plate thickness at least.

One of the two current builds is complete and should be up and running in a car in 3-4 weeks. This is the RB33 with my version 8 spacer plate, which isolates head and block coolant flow. 89.8 stroke x 88mm bore. Isolation prevents combustion gas getting into the coolant system. Head o-ring and block o-ring receivers are the same as the RB34. This block has some substantial strength upgrades though in the form of the steel billet main caps and girdle plate, 12mm main bolts, ARP 625+ bolts through-out, and a tall block/coolant gallery fill (not grout, but with an engineering composite). The RB32 is currently in the CNC mill may be a few months still. It uses the same spacer setup as my RB34, with the addition of a platinum racing girdle plate instead of the pro engines girdle. The main benefit being that a OEM positioned oil pump can be retained as tunnel boring is minimal, where as the RB33 must use an external pump due to larger clearances.