GTRNUR

All good, got a set. Thanks for those that sent PM's.

West Side don't just do mufflers and exhaust systems. They are a workshop that build race cars too. Their in house fabrication skills are about as good as you'll find. The last custom titanium system of theirs that I saw was a lobser backed system made from a chopped up jap exhaust. Considering they are in the business there is a good chance that they have some off-cuts that will be the right size, or if not they'll know where to source it.

I can vouch for West Side Mufflers in Sydney, if you luck out in Newcastle.

So is your AMS tuned R35 GTR on the way ?

Im after 6 piston squirters and banjo bolts to match. Please PM me a price if you have these lying around...

+1 The only reason we are so reliant on coal for electrical energy production is that the media and films exaggerate the "problems" they see with nuclear energy. The technology to run nuclear reactors with cooling systems turned off without melt downs occurring was developed and proven decades ago. The problem is countries with short sited governments that persist in running old nuclear infrastructure until it eventually fails, which CAN only end badly. Countries such as our own for example which have navy vessels still reliant on Windows NT4 and dare I say it, Windows 98! We are a race guided by vocal minorities, and governed by bureaucracy. While the voices of the educated intellectuals that understand the technologies are dismissed as "opinion".

Every setup has a compromise of some sort. I wanted the stock appearence and to be able to make power more easily in top end without having a ported head or cams. The GTRS shuffle issue wasn't something knew even existed, having had no GTRS/RB experience before starting this project. We can only learn from our mistakes and I'm down a specific road now and I need to get to the end of it before I can see how good the journey really is. Cam timing will go a long way to sorting out the restiction issues. This is an area we have yet to play with having started a 0/0 again in this most recent tune session. Cams will be the focus of one of the next dyno sessions. My window of time for tuning is pretty narrow, as I am having to do all this after hours and only generally get about 1.5 hrs of usable light before it gets too dark where the dyno is to be able to make any fine adjustments. Especially without burning myself on the radiator (Im sporting a few good blisters from 2 weeks ago still). The greddy extension front pipe setup and un ported head will also be holding it back a bit. Yes -5's could solve a few issues and make better low end at the expense of some (easy) top end. But its pointless changing them now without first trying to optimise what I already have. So NO. No dash 5's! Shuffle is only an issue if your driving in the wrong gear. 150-200km/h is a 4th gear speed, not a 5th gear speed. It drives through the shuffle zone (4-5) a lot quicker on the street in the lower gears than it can on the dyno. Street driving has the advantage of having inertia energy in the spinning turbine shafts, which helps help get through the shuffle zone quicker too. On the dyno this isn't the case when gently driving the car up to full load. If driving enthusiastically and shifting at 7, the next gear starts at 5 ish which is still above the shuffle zone too. So what I am saying is my shuffle issue really is only a problem when holding load points on the dyno. I have a feeling that more boost I run the less of an issue the shuffle will be. More boost will also bring the curve further forward as the wastegates won't be bleeding off as early, and build more inertia in the turbo's quicker. The torque curve on the high boost run is a bad example to draw any comparisons to, as the boost response is slower than it is on the street becuase of the reduced ramp rate. The low boost run is a better example of what the boost/torque response curve is like, despite the shuffle dip. The only conclusions that can be drawn from the high boost dyno sheet is that the engine is making the same power that it did 6 months ago with the same cam timing, and that last weeks ignition issues are fixed.

I didn't realise you had to chop up the car to get the GTX's to fit. Pass on those then... I'd rather chop up an engine than a car. I definatly want more power than -5's can produce, at least on an un-cammed and un-ported head... 2 points that are definatly holding back the current engine. Shuffle isn't really an issue for me when street driving, as I don't floor it in 5th or 6th gear at 4000-5000 RPM in order to get up and moving. Its always drop back to 3rd or 4th. In order to have a shuffle issue that would affect drivability and power delivery, I would need to be doing 160km/h in 5th or around 200 in 6th. Which is one gear too high for those road speeds.

True... the GTRS's are pretty old things. Im watching that GTX28 thread with interest. A pair of those on 3+lt would be interesting. I can't help but thing the shuffle issues are always going to be there though regardless of the turbo's used, unless a HKS balance pipe is put between the two manifolds.

I was reading the 26/30 R34 project thread last night and noticed someone else suggesting a T51kai was going to be used on their next engine. I was thinking exactly the same thing. Going single is the only way to eliminate the shuffle issue without taking some sort of compromise. Yes try about the stock parts as well. I'd still be using a stock intercooler if I wasn't shooting for 450kw. The Nismo pumps are very good as well. Video at last. Turn up your speakers. RB315DETT Dyno session 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jo4zv9hJtqE

My actuators are the 1.1bar hks type and are calibrated to lift off the wastegate seat at 15psi exactly. This equates to about 10-11psi minimum boost. I've had my twin turbo pipe split in 1/2 and welded with a baffle plate, and that has helped a lot. It used to shuffle madly at cruise speeds ~2000 rpm in 5th/6th, and the baffle fixed that. But they still get out of shape between 4000-5000 rpm if you get on the throttle at the wrong time or the wrong way. I've gotten used to it and can feel when its right to step on it, but on a dyno everything is different. Manifolds are stock cast, match ported with ceramic internal and external coatings. Turbine housings are also ceramic coated in and out. The HKS exhaust manifold is definatly the go, but its not a road I want to entertain as I value a stock appearance more. Im using a nismo in-tank pump and 700cc sards in a stock rail with a stock fuel pressure reg. I didn't check the duty but will check that out in the logs tomorrow. Its still pretty low from memory, but another 4 psi should have them at clost to 90%.

Spent another two hours on the dyno tonight. All in all it went pretty good. We didn't get to tune to the max boost level, tweak with the cam timing at all or run any water/meth. But have completed baseline tunes at 10lb, 18lb, and 22lb. At 22lb the engine is making the same power it was during its first dyno session with less boost and hotter air. (477 hp at the wheels). So all in all good results so far. 30 degree ambient temps, 35 on the MDF at the intercooler, and 55 at the plenum. With the cams set back to 0/0 again the first couple of runs at 10lb pulled 250kw and 255kw atw. 18lb made 303kw. I believe the dip in the torque curve on the lower boost setting was the turbo's still setting after shuffling as they would come onto full boost, which didn't happen on the faster ramp rate. We did a few 5th gear 22lb runs and made about the same power as in 4th. In 4th gear as the engine seemed to load up better and the turbo's didnt shuffle. On the first attempt with a 12km/second ramp rate it tried to drive off the rollers, so the ramp rate was upped as we didn't have time (or light) to hook up more straps. Its going to be 3-4 weeks till I can get more dyno time, as my work responsibilities won't permit more playing till then. Next dyno session will be all about tweaking with the cam gears. I am confident there is another 30kw in just the cams. Then if time permits, 25-26 lb will max out the fuel system and hopefully net close to my 450kw goal. Well thats the plan at least. Video will be uploaded later this evening.

I didn't really have a torque figure in mind, though if you factor in the 8000 RPM limit and the power goal then the torque will be above 1000nm for sure. More than any particular power/torque goal, I am more so trying to achieve similar goals to the Racepace RB29 vcam engine, and also the Rips stealth bomber car. The way I see it is that Ben at Racepace achieved their results with years of experience, displacement and custom vcam and -5's. RIPS got their result with an RB30, their special head porting and a T04z. I'd like to achieve a very comparable result with a stock head, raw displacement increase and low mount GTRS's (which compare in flow to the T04z). I am also after the stock appearance that Racepace/Ben had with their setup. Time will tell.

450 kw atw at least is the goal, but im hoping for 470 ish. Im pretty confident I will achieve this at 1.6 - 1.8kg/cm as the engine responds very well to boost. It's not all about power though. I am trying to produce a very linear power curve from the lowest possible RPM, which is why we went back to basics with the last dyno session. Tuning with the lowest boost settings and tweaking for maximum torque below 4500 will produces better results in the long run and a more fun to drive experience. We are slowly gathering more data on how the engine responds, so with any luck the next session should produce some more interesting results.

Follow the service manual is my recommendation. Start at 0,0 and the book dyno time to make gradual changes one cam at a time. R34 rb26 cams are different to R32/R33 and especially different to RB25 cams. This combined with my displacement increase and short rod ratio make any data I might collect useless to most other RB engine tuners.

Thanks for your thoughts, but I was able to sort it out yesterday morning. Changing the plugs didnt resolve the problem so I started back tracking the steps we were making while tuning. The ignition issue dissapeared when I put the exhaust cam back to where it was before we started. It turns out that there was nothing wrong with the water/meth setup after all. Though I have still decided to change the nozzle configuration, so the tune will be less reliant on wm injection. Ive decided to use it only for intercooler and pre turbo to aid in charge cooling only. My new nozzles should hopefully arrive mid next week. With any luck before thursday night when I hope to have more dyno time.

Finally managed to get the video to upload after the 3rd attempt. Not the most exciting video by a long shot, but at least there was some progress and some nice sounds recorded. Seeing how easily the car climbed up on the front rollers on the high boost attempt was good too. It felt really strong in the car. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYJfbfGg17E The dyno platform really needs a lighting upgrade too. I didn't get a dyno print out as we didn't really make any inspirational numbers. It is breaking the 200kw milestone at about 3900 rpm now though.

Well I got my dates wrong and my dyno time happened today instead. We went back to basics with the tune and dropped the boost to 0.8 kg/cm (boost controller off), did a few baseline runs and started to tweak the cam gear timing. Fiddling with the intake cam got 15kw more in front of the curve as it ramped up onto boost. Maximum power achieved with 0.8 kg/cm was 255kw atw with rich afr's in the mid 11's. It was 33 degrees and 78% humidity. Intake air temps were 44 degrees(MFD), so I think that power level was reasonable for 10lb. Moving onto high boost tuning is where the issues started. First we had glitches getting the boost control stable. On the first attempt it spiked to 2kg/cm. But didn't knock, lean out or even miss fire. Knock values were still sub 10's all the way to 32lb. With some tweaking of the avcr boost, was stabilised at 1.5kg/cm and we tried some power runs. Some minor adjustment of the exhaust cam bought boost on even quicker (1.5ish @ 4000 rpm), but we then started to have issues with the ignition breaking down at 4500. That bought the tune session to an end for the moment. I have a week to make some corrections, change plugs, check base timing and change the water/meth nozzle sizes a little. WIth any luck I'll be ready for more tuning next thursday night. I had a HD camera setup recording for nearly 2 hours (or until the battery went flat). I'll be uploading soon.

Thanks mate. I should have some more results and video footage soon. I have been able to book some after hours dyno tuning time for Thursday, 2 weeks. With any luck it should be cool enough so I can reach my original power goals.

Still looking....bump!

Thats great! Did they make up templates so they can fab up a few more of those diffusers? I've been considering something like this to allow a second rear mount radiator to be run, so I can keep engine temps at 80 degrees regardless of how exuberant I might be driving...

Hi, Im chasing an Rb25 R33 automatic bell housing. If anyone has one of these and can freight to Cairns, QLD, 4870 please let me know. 0434 147 478. Cheers.

+1 to that. I've talked to a few people in the automotive industry that have developed products and sell them on a large scale. Most of them have as little as possible to do with the forums, or any kind of public media for this very reason. The internet gives every "nut swinging" idiot with an opinion a voice, regardless of how low their IQ is. Also, in many cases its the people that aren't complete idiots that can do a lot of damage to the image of a product. For example the percived "coolness" of someone's public efforts add merit to their voice, and further fueling the ramblings of the nut swingers. There are plenty of examples of this on SAU alone. Spool seem to have very wisely taken a step back and chosen to not get involved in the BS. And some great results have now surfaced with little to no apparent effort on Spools behalf. Any doubts can now finally be put to rest. Congratulations Spool!

If you look around you might be able to pick up someone else's 1/2 finished Caterham project. You'd be surprised how many people start projects like these and just leave them un-finished in a shed. You can pick them up cheap once they have been sitting a few years.

Makes my head hurt doing that kind of maths! Someone should teach John how to use MS Excel. Im sure he could then create the mother of all engine calc spreadsheets. I noticed the mentioning of a water/meth injection system too. As your already running with 12 injectors, where will you be putting the injector nozzles? Just after the BOV's and before the plenum, or are you modifying the plenum further to support direct port injection as well?