GTRNUR

PM Sent

Thanks. Funny thing is I nearly missed the track day, having slept in by mistake. I was a little tired after the drive down ! On to Business. Bump! The engine is still up for grabs. BUT! I am now accepting offers for the internals. I will consider removing the head and sump, and selling just the block and internals if someone needs a quick repair for their blown up R34 engine. Alternatively I am prepared to strip it and sell the internals off seperately. I don't want to start breaking it up until someone takes the crankshaft though. Up for grabs are: R34 Crankshaft $1200 Standard Harmonic balancer $200 Rods + Pistons $500 Standard oil pump $200 Standard turbo's $500 R34 GTR Dumps $200 R34 GTR Standard front pipe. $100 Regarding pricing for these parts, I am negotable and especially interested in part swaps as part of the deal. Just PM me (don't post your offer in the thread). I am keeping everything else with the intention of building the next version of my open deck engine. But If someone needs a virgin 05U R34 block and has an un-cracked block with light bore damage (or 3) I'll consider a swap. Im pretty keen on keeping the genuine block though, so the original serial numbers will match what was in the car from factory. That is all.

Which version of T51 is it running? SPL or KAI either way its still only 400 rpm off the T04Z/GTRS spool time on the typical RB30/26 hybrids. Not bad at all considering. Sounds great in the videos too.

If you do the work yourself, and do it right the first time. Mistakes cost money. A good example of building a cheap hybrid is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/350554-my-diy-attempted-rb2530-build-is-running-but-there-are-some-issues/

None of the 2JZ parts are directly compatible with any of the RB series nissans. Piston compression height is 2mm too tall, the gudgeons are 22mm, not 21mm. The pistons are dished as well. The conrod length is 10mm shorter than the RB and they are 2mm larger and 3mm wider at the big end. In short, nothing fits. Not even with some massaging. The idea of pinching some of the dimensions of a 2JZ and using them in an RB is a good one. 2JZ's are built like diesels. There is no cheap way about it though. Its custom all the way for every part you want to use.

Sounds like air locks in the engine to me. Use the air bleed on the head or get a greddy swirl pot/air seperation tank. Hot spots and air-locks will cause odd surges in engine temperature. The next likely culprit is that the foam around your radiator is stuffed, therby allowing hot air from the back of the radiator to keep heating the front. My Nismo thermostat with pwr radiator manages to keep my engine at 68 degrees when crusing on the hottest of days. We had 41 degrees ambient on monday, with 75-80% humidity. Keeping everything in top condition really is the key. The foam around the radiator. The clutch fan, and having no air at all in the system. I use distilled water + water wetter only too.

Looks to me like selling the R34 PFC and switching to a R32/R33 one is going to be the only way to make it work. You arent going to be able to bypass that immobiliser circut or generate a signal to fool it.

Fantastic work! I'm still a little bummed I didn't make my return trip home from the Nationals via Sydney, so I could stop by and have a look... though it did shave a few hundred km off the drive. How far away is the engine build? Have you decided on all the details for it yet?

Alas there was no room in the car for a second engine. I would have liked to take back a few engine blocks for the next project too, but the boot was full.

No thats too cheap. Turbo's are standard ceramics. With the exception of the power steering and AC pumps it is a 100% complete engine. From intake plenum to front pipe, cam covers to diff.

A lot of things cause detonation. Perhaps it was running a tune on the razor edge of safety vs death. An especially cold day or a little blow by oil in the intake could have been all it would take to push it over the edge. The blue smoke you saw most likely happened after the damage was done. The rod bearings will tell the rest of the story.

Detonation/pinging. It smashes the ring lands off pistons, and gives the rod bearings a good hammering at the same time. A look at the piston crowns and rod bearings, and the crank rod journels may reveal more.

I think that transporting the car next time would make a lot more sense. Also it allows me to work during the time the car is being transported which covers those costs. It had to be done once though, and all in all I enjoyed the journey. The engine sure proved itself. Recovered? Nope. My body clock is shot to bits. I keep waking up at 5:30am in the morning. And I am supposed to be on holidays! I have just finished putting the car back together. I found a split hose to be the cause of the boost drop off from 1.75kg/cm to 1.6. And the exhaust dump pipe gasket explains why my ears were still ringing 7 hours after I got home and out of the car! I pitty the poor people I overtook on the highway on the way back. Must have been defening at 6000 rpm! My catch can was empty too. So it seems that it works provided I am not doing any cornering. I can't help but think the reason it filled was that long 3rd gear left turn(turn 3 I believe), which was done at around 4000-5000 rpm. During which no oil drains to the sump because its all in the right side cam cover away from the drains. I am definatly adding a return to sump system on the next engine.

Thanks Roy. I like the idea of next year being closer though. Lakeside raceway in Brisbane would be nice but i'll settle for Sydney. Pulled the front turbo off the engine today. It turns out that the exhaust leak was just the dump pipe to turbo gasket having 1/2 blown out. Interesting that this was enough to cause the boost to not go over 1.6kg/cm to the 1.75kg/cm that it is supposed to reach. Perhaps it produced just enough turbulance in the exhaust flow to upset things. I'll be pressure testing the intake side of the engine again prior to reassembly anyway, just to make sure its not anything else that I've missed. Sorry Paul, I won't be changing to -5's just yet!

Also keen to hear from Nitto. If you do go with a Tomei pump, 1.5mm is too big. 1.1 is more like it, and I have "heard" that racepace even use a 0.9mm! Im adding a 1.1mm restrictor to my setup after filling the catch can at Winton. Don't run your mains larger than 3 thou clearence and you won't have a problem with the Tomei pump. Larger than 2.2 clearance will kill an N1 pump. Don't run a big pump without a big sump as well, and especially not if you intend on seeing more than 30 seconds of track time. Protect your investment and add a few more litres of oil. Oil is life!

I'd like to have caught up with Bobby and Jem, as well as gone and visited Unigroup as well but my time was limited in Sydney. Next time I'll transport the car and fly down which will give me more time.

Hi Liz, I got back to Cairns at 1:40pm this afternoon, having left Mackay this morning a little after 4am. Glad to be home and still have a couple of days holidays left to recover (ween myself off V), and fix the exhaust leak on the car.

Your right, it never happened! Though if you did it probably would have sounded pretty good!

Yes indeed it was great! Except for the little part where I lost you all at Albiny... I should blame my GPS but really it was the idiot that was trying to use it! Tate did well keeping up in the yellow WRX, despite the check engine light being on the whole way there! LOL It was entertaining watching Andrew in the blue R34 drop back and do the fly by's as well. The Motive DVD guy's did extremely well keeping up in the hilux too!

Hi Roy, sorry I missed you. I spent the show and shine morning freezing my ass off and looking at everyone else's cars. Sadly my car's not a real NUR, I just bought the number plate for when I do own one. I'd like to upgrade to a Vspec2 Nur Mspec in a year or two. Either that or add a diffuser and N1/Nismo parts to "vspec convert" the current car and give it a re-spray. GTRRKT and the Midori R34 Vspec2 Nur's were there of course.

Update! Back from the SAU Nationals. 7061km in 10 days. I decided to take the in land road back home via the Newall/Leicheart highways as it cuts a fair amount of KM off the trip. 3800km via the coast so I could stop by at Newcastle, Sydney and Wollongong. The way back was 2770km. I did the return trip in 3 days. Shepperton-Goondawindi (1200km), Goondawindi-Mackay(1003km), and Mackay-Cairns(737km). Sorted out the fuel economy EGT issue while on the way back as well by re-scaling my RPM and load maps a little so there wasnt load cell interpolation at the cruise speed. Averaging a speed of 110-115km/h I am now getting 10.6lt/100km. It gets a lot better at around 95km/h as the injector pulse drops another 0.6-0.7ms. EGT's are now 690-710 max at cruise speeds between 110-130 or so. For the most part the car performed well. I had 3 issues. The catch can overflowed again (time to buy a Nismo return to sump can), and the engine developed 2 exhaust leaks after the first track practice session. The oil cleaned up easily enough, but the exhaust leaks werent able to be fixed on the day. My EGT sensors had worked loose, probably due to the EGT's and metal expansion etc. But the bad leak is either between the manifold and the turbo, or somewhere on the dump pipe on the front turbo. So its a turbo off job to fix it. Im not too fussed about having not experienced more track time. I got to do over 200km/h on the main straight before the kink in front of the pits which was fun, and I had one attempt at doing a fast lap, but experienced brake fade at the end of the second part of the main straight. After that my testicles shrank a bit. I tried a cool down lap but then the session ended. Was great to finally meet many of you and put faces to names. Appologies to those that I didnt get to catch up with.

Do you have an EGT probe as well? At 100km/h and 15.5 afr my EGT's are a nice 800 degrees. Get up to 110(or perhaps I mean "motorway speeds...") though and the EGTs would easily be hitting 850 degrees which is too hot when the sensor is in the dump pipe. It would have combustion chamber temps around 900 degrees. So to maintain an egt of 800-810max i run the afr's at 14.7. The other factor that could be effecting my economy is that I am enjoying the sub 20 degrees air temps. At full load the engine is drinking a calculated 3.9lt/minute. 1lt in 15 seconds!

Are there many confirmed "big names" in tuning making an appearence? CRD? Autostyle? Envy (I heard a rumor...)? Racepace?

As I said... Call wolf and let them know your doing a skyline wire in. Doesnt matter what ecu you are using. A connector is a connector after all.