GTRNUR

Absolutely! I am currently in a hotel in Ballina. I've driven 1958km in the last 2 days. The car is running flawlessly. My last long drive prior to this was to Townsville and back (~700k round trip), and my cruise speed was around 90-95km/h. Thanks to the inaccurate speedo which made my economy 8.3lt/100. I now think that I must have lost a recepit from that trip. So far I am averaging 13.88lt/100. I have a GPS speedo now which is far more accurate. I suspect that I have used a lot more fuel since getting past Mackay as well. The 110km zones and motorways where everyone does a bit more than 110 uses a bit more fuel. The camshaft timing is different now as well so that might be a factor. The water/methanol kit arrived monday morning just before I departed. I will be in Newcastle tomorrow around 1-2pm visiting people and then move on to Sydney later in the day. This will give me all of Thursday to install it before the cruise out to Shepparton on Friday. Marko, I'll appreciate any wisdom your able to offer with the setup. See you all Thursday!

Thanks for the info Sean. I was going to ask you if there was a restrictor in the Nismo catch can setup, and in which hose they put it. Also, if the location of the restrictor is above the height of the catch can, so that collected oil can return to the catch can and then to the sump. I suspect that Nismo's approach to oil control is more than just a catch can, but also an effort to combat the issues caused by the standard engine's having a restrictor that is too large. So as a 2 parter, it seperates oil from blow by gas and provides an extra return path to the sump for excess head oil. When you think about it, Nissan should have put this catch can setup on every GTR made Post 1990 because Im sure that more than a few cars in 1989 spun some bearings and blew some oil into the air intakes! Thumbs up for being a Nismo parts fan as well. Once you start buying nismo product, its hard to consider any other brand. Few other after market parts manufacturers offer components of similar quality and fitment. Im sure you have been eyeing off Bobby's Nismo R34 Rtune bonnet in the forsale section too. Interesting that you didnt have to pull the front pipe off to allow the lower T'd turbo-drain/catch can return to be fitted. I suspect my setup with the trust split dumps has less room to move due to the length of the seperate wastegate return pipe along the side of the extra long dump pipes. I took one look at it and though... too hard!

I am still seeing ambient air temps of around 50-55 degrees during driving around on hot days. But I also tuned a mates R34 Vspec recently, and oddly his air intake temps were what was the actual ambient temperature which was around 30-35 degrees. This has me wondering of the R34 Vspec's have a slightly different wiring loom than the non-vspec R34's and it uses the intercooler air temp sensor instead of the one on the plenum. Next time I get a chance to look at the tune in his car I will unplug each sensor and determine which is actually being used by the Power FC. My car has the intercooler sensor as well as the one on the plenum, but the wiring seems to indicate that the ecu uses the plenum sensor. My Nismo MFD upgrade isnt showing the air temp yet either. I'll make the time to sort that out one day. Thanks Ash. Though considering the other cars that will be there, I am sure there will be some far more angry cars to see. To be honest the car is super conservertive and is really docile like a stock car until the right foot is planted. Also I am no where near a good enough driver to put the car through its paces. If there were some professional drivers going to the event, I'd consider giving them the keys for a couple of laps. Anyone know Mark Skaife's phone number?

Yes true I did consider these, but the deciding factor is that this is still a street car. I don't want to go overboard with it and make it too complicated. Once I'm back from SAU nationals I should really stop messing around with this engine and just enjoy it. I really want to get stuck into the verison 3 engine.

Starting off with a cooling mist stage 1 kit with a 500cc nossle. It will only be switched on when running boost over 1.4 bar. As this is a bit of an introduction to water/meth I want to keep the first setup nice and basic. Down the track I might run two nossles (150+350), and have them switch on at different boost levels with 2 solenoids. The other option is to use a rising rate regulator to start injection at 115psi and increase injection pressure with boost. I still have a lot to read/research before deciding which way to go. Using a rising rate regulator to produce a progressive delivery would probably produce a more tunable result.

Update. The engine is now tuned up to 1.75kg/cm boost (24.8psi). Having finally worked out the issues with the setup of my AVCR it now reaches this boost level at 4500 rpm, and holds it till around 6500 where it drops a few PSI to 7500. I've modified the intake hoses and fitted 1/8th BSPT bungs for the water-methanol injection system. Unfortunatly the injection kit hasnt arrived yet. With any luck it will arrive Monday morning, and I'll get a chance to install it when I am in Sydney before heading out to Shepperton. The goal with the water-meth isnt so much to add a lot more power, rather I want to use it to lower EGT's and combustion temps a little. Which in turn will lower oil temps and reduce the load on the cooling system overall. This will make the whole setup more reliable overall and allow the engine to make good power without having to be run at its limit. I checked the catch can again after the re-tune, and still not a drop of oil has made its way there. All servicing is now done and I am ready for the drive to Shepperton. Im officially on holidays! My first real break from work in 7 years! Just need to pack a bag and load everything in the car. Looking forward to putting some faces to names on the forum!

Hey Bobby, are you going to come to SAU Nationals and bring along that Z-Tune of yours? Im sure everyone would love to see it there.

Pretty sure that Wolf motorsport will have them on the shelf. http://www.wolfems.com/contact.html

I think the inflatable Hillary is a better idea. She isn't going to scream to distract you when your driving, yet she has the right facial expression to be a passenger in a gtr. You aren't going to need a penicillin shot or have to boil your sheets either, as I suspect you might if your passenger gets turned on by a BOV.

Yes that will be fine. The main thing you are trying to acomplish is getting the built up garbage out of the engine. So the pre-requisits to do this are: No expensive oils unless you happen to own an oil field... Use a new filter Change every weekend or 200km as has been suggested for 2 cycles before switching back to synthetic Dont rev it past 4500, and especially when cold keep the revs low.

If you want to do the right thing by your car, you need to pull off the intercooler, return pipe and all the intake hoses and give them a good clean. Flush the intercooler with petrol until you can shake about 200ml of petrol in there and have it poor out clean. Same with the return pipe. Most important of all, invest in a catch can that actually works or you will be cleaning it all again in a few months.

Also in Paul's power fc manual is another reason the settings don't save. It can happen on situations where an engine converison has been done, you have used a power FC, but havent wired the relays and power to the ecu correctly. The information on how to fix this is in guide. If its note a wire in, you should also investigate those relays and wiring involved anyway. The ECU is sent a signal to save when the ignition is turned off, but it actually turns itself off after about 3 seconds after you turn the key off. If you listen you should hear a relay click a few seconds after switching the key from on to acc.

Its not power that breaks the getrag most of the time. Like all gearbox breakages it is mostly shock loading. The R34 getrag is basically the same as a supra getrag box with the exception of the AWD transfer case. They run them at over 1000hp in the supra's. But if you've ever been in a supra, most don't get traction at all a well when they are over 500hp atw. In the GTR however the AWD causes more load on the gearbox output, so the gearbox is more likely to sustain damage from launches. The generally accepted maximum would be around 600hp atw, but the quality of your tyres and the surface your driving on are the real deciding factors. There are quite a few 1000hp R34's around that still use the standard getrag, however most won't have tried to put that power to the ground through a set of slicks on a drag strip surface. The yellow R34 (Nitto), the powertune white R34 (GTRB28) and the blue envy dyno (jetters edge) cars are 3 that are quite publicly know of as having serious power while retaining stock drivelines for at least part of their lives. The powertune car aparently has a sequential box now. I do know of someone that has broken an R34 box through just excessive power, not shockloading. I can't remember the exact details, however it was either 5th or 6th that was broken, and it was at high RPM with an extremely healthy rb26 making around 850-900HP. The RIPS built R33 GTR called "BORG" (build on GTROC UK Forum), broke a PPG gearset equipped getrag the first time they drag raced the car as well. I believe that was on slicks with around 800-900 hp as well. You can toughen up the getrag with billet intermediate housings around the gearsets to reduce the twisting effect that driveline torque is having on the box. This keeps the gears meshing properly and stops the housing breaking. I have also seen a getrag that used a chromoly thrust plate on the end of the intermediate housing, which helped reduce distortion of the gearbox where thrust was normally absorbed by the alloy housing of the box. A PPG gearset helps, but straight cut gearing sets also take away from the streetability of the car unless you like that sound. To go further you start to venture into no so well charted territory, and need a real transmission pro that is able to further improve the lubrication of the box which usually means custom gear modifications, oil squirters, external fluid pump and cooler. The costs to do this get pretty extreme and put you into hollinger territory which is where most of the insane power level cars seem to end up. The only other option would be an auto transmission with an AWD transfer case fitted, as per that black R32 gtr with the RIPS engines owned by someone on the forum here. I can't remember their username though.

I'd suggest taking small steps with the car and don't buy anything expensive for it. For example: No synthetic oils. You have a lot to establish before you go sinking any money into it. If you jump in with both feet trying to restore it to its former glory you could end up with a bottomless money pit very quickly. GTR's can be bottomless pits when they are in good condition, so imagine how bad a neglected one could be. I'd suggest doing a hot compression test after you do the first oil change. This will give you some idea as to the health of the engine. Oil pressure when its been running and is over 80 degrees will give you an idea of the bottom end condition. If it still drives ok, then drive it for the first week as is. Only once its proven itself a little would I then suggest changing the diff, gearbox, steering, transfer case and cooling system fluids. I you jump in too quickly you might just be throwing money away on consumables you will be draining again when you start replacing the broken parts. If things start going wrong, and also if the shell is full of rust it would be worth considering wrecking the car and selling off the components. You will end up making your money back and then some. Then go looking for another bargin.

I'd be going the other way with the oil. Get a cheap 10w40 mineral oil, and change it every weekend for 2 weeks. While running the mineral oil don't drive the car even remotely hard. Just run it up to temp gently and keep the revs below 4500. Especially dont flog it when its cold. The idea is you want to filter as much crap out of the oil system as you can, not have it bypass the filter and get to your bearings. Higher revs mean high oil pressure which results in some oil bypassing the filter. After your 2nd quick change, then fill it with royal purple/motul or some other high quality synthetic. Everything else you change and do will be determined by the age of the car, its level of tune and how many k's are on the odometer. Timing belts are a 100,000k item as are the tensioners. It would make sense to change the diffs, gearbox, transfer case, steering fluids and coolant just so you can start a logbook for the car's servicing. Then do the next service of these area's at 1/2 the due km's. And in the meantime fingers crossed that nothing has been damaged by the neglect.

Whats the location? Im interested in the block and cradle but instead of freighting it i'd like to collect it next time I am in brissy, sydney or vic, which is going to be in 3 weeks around the time of the SAU nationals.

If you tune with FC-Edit start a log session and open the Map watch. Select the Advanced PIM value and filter for Minimum values. Then give the engine a big rev and let it fall back to idle with the throttle closed. If your PIM value falls below your Settings 3/Map Reference 01 load PIM value, then thats your problem. The ECU is interpolating your top row of fuel values back to Zero, based on the PIM values your MAP sensors are generating. This issue causes a lean pop or burble on down shifts and partial throttle/no load conditions such as rolling down hills. It also causes a throttle hesitation issue from a closed throttle, as your accelerate injector settings on page 2 reference the current map load point. And if that load point is lean then the engine will hesitate. There are 2 solutions. 1. would be to make a note of that lowest value, and change the 01 PIM value to be this new low value. Eg: you see 890 as a PIM value, set 01 load PIM load to 800. This will help with situations where you down shift while the throttle is closed and it pulls a really strong vacuum. 2. would be to change the offset values for your MAP sensor, but that also means re-tuning the ignition and fuel maps from scratch.

Have a look at what I did on the last two pages of my build thread and my catch can story. You can only determine if it is an oil bubble related issue by running the car up on the dyno while monitoring the hoses. I am pretty confident my setup would solve your issues though. I get no oil in the breather at all. I'm using a larger oil pump with 1.5mm restrictor along with more displacement and probably more power as well. All which should mean I should have more blow by issues than you do. I don't have an external head drain, but did drill my returns larger. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/314402-project-rb31dett-the-development-of-my-open-deck-rb-engine-and-the-quest-for-more-torque/page__st__240 I'll add, using a catch can that extracts oil from the head and returns it via a turbo oil return such as the nismo catch cans is a different approach which will also help reduce oil surge in motors with smaller sumps than yours. Not something you need to worry about with a high octane extension though. Just containing the oil and returning it to the head will be sufficent.

Yes it is that simple and yes they really do work well. The only thing I would suggest is that you be careful to not over-tighten the 6x1mm fitting that goes into the head as it is extremely fragile due to the hole drilled through it, and also because its chrome plated mild steel. Could have been my enthuesasm but mine broke so I made another out of a grade 12 bolt. One other thing I would suggest is to seal the radiator shroud onto your radiator so the fan can only pull air through the radiator, and then seal the radiator to the front of the car by replacing all the foam rubber you are missing around the radiator. An air leak around the radiator either drops the effectiveness of your fan by allowing it to draw air around the radiator, or it allows it to recirculate hot air when stationary. Both are bad. Consider an air leak to be as bad as a coolant leak. Even if your engine isnt over heating, hotter average coolant temps in the radiator temps mean your clutch fan will be engaging and working harder and directly robbing more power and throttle response at all engine speeds. The greddy tank, and radiator foam allow my engine to sit on a stable nismo thermostat regulated 68 degrees in 32-35 degree heat like we are getting during the day at the moment.

For sale: A set of EBC yellow stuff pads to suit an R34 GTR, or possibly an R33 GTR. Pads a new in original packaging. I was going to use these but am now going another way with a bigger rotor and caliper setup. $320.00 + postage. Also interested in swapping for some other R34 GTR parts, or possibly an Rb26 engine block + cradle if you have one lying around. PM or call 0434 147 478. Cheers, Ian

Thinking of alcohol, is there any modifications that aren't allowed in the modified classes? For example water/methanol injection? Water intercooler and brake spray systems or is it anything goes?

Agreed there. Most responsive setups are definatly less exciting to drive. There is one great advantage of running a turbo setup that is capable of pumping much more power than you need. Running well below their maximum potential means the engine is not having to be leaned on as hard to produce the numbers. EGT's will be lower, knock will be lower and it will be under less stress overall. So this makes it a more reliable car. Compare that to a -5 390kw tuned RB26. Get a bad batch of fuel or have some sort of glitch with the engine setup and your into that area that damage can happen a lot sooner.

I had this same issue when fast cornering back when I had a stock motor/sump setup in the car. It would happen when coming out of a corners and accelerating onto the straights in 2nd gear. This was when competing in sprint events. The issue first appeared when I purchased a good set of semi slicks. Basically once I got the suspension and tyres sorted so I could maintain good cornering speeds and get good mid corner grip, I would lose oil pressure about 20-30m out of the corners. The extra cornering grip was allowing me to get on the throttle a lot more mid corner, resulting in more cornering G's, less oil depth around the pickup and more oil in the head. A couple of the on camber corners that were angled up hill were the worse than other corners. Possibly because my balls don't permit me to push as hard in the off camber corners where the sand trap is actually a swamp. 5.5lt+ (probably not quite 6lt) made no difference, but I did try the overfill to the hump. I was using 10w60 in summer, and in 35 degree heat. If anything I think that using a ligher grade oil would help more, as it will return to the sump faster from the head, and also from the sides of the sump after cornering. So I think that using a 10w40 and only driving it hard when your oil temps are 90+ degrees would help. Higher temps lowering viscosity. Stock sump setups just arent good enough for high lateral G cornering. A stock GTR engine is not a motorsport grade engine. Its a fast street car engine. Once you are in 3rd or above then the G's arent enough to get the oil away from the pickup so your oil pressure drop issue shouldnt be happening then. Thats unless you have a modified engine etc, in which case hopefully you've upgraded your sump capacity and added trap doors as well. Im sure many will disagree with this having not experienced oil pressure drop issues once they over-filled. It all comes down to how you drive, how fast you can corner and especially the track.

Its just prius's that bother me and especially prius taxi's. And rightfully so. No self respecting GTR owner can enjoy the fact that a hybrid is quicker from a standing start while being so dam quiet about it. In standard form and even in many modified forms, GTR's are only quick cars when they are being revved. The rest of the time they are a 1.6 ton car with a low compression 2.6lt motor, delivering a less than inspirational off boost driving experience.

Amen to that. Although many of us have owned cars like this at some stage and probably enjoyed them just as much too. That top end surge acompanied by the RPM is a hoot. The only thing I don't like about cars setup like that is that a toyota prius can drag you off from the lights and beat you to 60km/h unless your prepared to rev past 5500, and risk attracting the attention of everyone on the road.