GTRNUR

3.15lt yes, RB30 no. Its an sleeved raised deck RB26 block similar to an OS giken engine with custom internals.

What kind of ecu are you using? Have a look at your starting ignition values. RB's like up to 45 degrees ignition advance for cranking. All ecu's work a little differently, but cranking ignition (below 300 RPM or so) should be 45 advanced, after which it will switch to the base ignition map + corrections for temp etc. Its not needed when its cold (15 degrees will do), but definatly is needed when the engine is hot and heat soaked. Sometimes a little extra fuel in the cranking values for the hot temp (80 degrees area), will also help wet the manifold and prevent a momentary lean condition after starting.... Again different ecu's different startup options...

Doesnt make a lot of sense... What data logger are you using and what ecu? How are you data logging and how do you have the data logger connected to the engine?

No you dont want to do that. T it in to the line that provides your fuel pressure reg with a vacuum signal. If your lines are setup as per the diagram it should work fine. Start off setting up the eboost with a reset. Then go for a drive and make sure its not overboosting. With everything reset to defaults it should run the lowest possible boost. Then, and only then should you start playing with the settings.

Sounds like the manifold flange isnt flat. Under stress the exhaust gas will always find a way out, and once it leaks a little it will burn the entire gasket out in seconds. You may need to pull the manifold and have the flange milled so its perfectly flat and matches the turbine housing. Two perfectly flat surfaces will seal well with just a little loctite ultra grey on the surfaces and survive virtually any temperature. At the most, adding one of those ultra thin metal only gaskets with the embossed ridge around the hole is also beneficial. But always use the silicon on the gasket, and not that copper based crap that never sets. If your fanatical about perfection, you could have a ring cut into the flange when its being milled that would then have a stainless steel wire ring glued into it. Then you could use a flat copper gasket and it would be a perfect seal. Same concept as o-ringing a cylinder head to a block.

I'll take a guess... Motive DVD will be there to film the SAU Nationals event. Great Stuff!

You might want to invest in purchasing some full stops, because your post is quite difficult to read. There is plenty of people using cam gears and getting good results. As Nismoid would say... Search. You should be investing in a tunable ecu and a re-tune first though, as the -7's will flow better than stock so the tune will now be out considerably. Optimise what you have first, and tune it so its safe. Then look at Terry's list and start shopping.

I thought i'd revive an old thread to see if Nitto has made any developements that they would care to share. While meandering around the internet I stumbled across this on the BC website for the 2JZ as an upgrade. http://www.briancrower.com/makes/toyota/2jzgte_misc.shtml I cant see why one of these couldnt be fitted to an RB crank. This is 1/2 the battle won right there.

Cam gears arrived today and were installed this afternoon. It turns out the intake and exhaust cams were retarded around 7 degrees, which explains a lot of the odd charactoristics I was seeing with tuning the engine. The GTRS's would start spooling below 2000 RPM because of the retard on the exhaust cam, but were also causing quite high EGT's which were effecting the accuracy of my wideband AFR meter making it appear leaner than it was. So I was compensating with too much fuel as a result when tuning. The intake cam timing was affecting idle quality, and made the engine pull a near complete vacuum at idle. It also prevented me from being able to get the idle below about 1000 rpm even with the butterflies and idle adjust shut. I had written that off as being a side effect of the displacement increase and additional torque at idle, but it turned out to be all cam timing. The retarded intake cam was also causing the engine to struggle for airflow in top end, and I believe is why the power curve didnt continue to climb after 5000 rpm as much. I have re-dialed in the cams now to a correction + 2 degrees advance on the intake (9 degrees total change), and correction + 3 degrees retard on the exhaust. (4 degrees total change). The effect has been dramatic already. The car started and idled at 500 rpm, but very very smoothly. After adjustment the idle is now comefortable at 900 rpm and deviates a maximum of around 10 RPM. Very smooth, as I would expect from stock cams. I still havent taken it for a test drive to feel the difference as I want to do another pressure test of the intake system first, just to make sure its all 100%. I am also changing the catch can arrangement and havent made up the new hoses yet. So all good news so far. One other piece of news is that I have been invited to an invitation only 1000M event at a nearby airport in 1 weeks time. I am going to be hard pressed to get everything sorted for the event, but im going to try. A few of the other cars are a modified 997 turbo, a Ruf 3.4 911 turbo, and a Lamborghini Gallardo. Rumor has it that CASA has allowed side by side 1000M drags. In testing the 997 managed around 21 seconds for the 1000M. Updated picture of how it looks now is attached. That is all.

Has Andrew of Motive asked to film this event, or have you guys invited him along? Granted there will be a lot of camera's there, but I am hoping this event ends up being the largest of its kind in Australian history. I for one would like to (and would gladly pay for) a professional DVD made to document it.

Do you still have the Power FC?

I came across the info about 180kw @ 4000 in someone's post somewhere, but hadnt seen the dyno sheet till just now. Seems I had read some typically inaccurate forum information as it looks like I need to gain another 10kw. It looks more like 190 @ 130km/h (4000 RPM) on the sheet to me. Because I am having a sixth sense about this coming... I'll say this to set the record straight now, before some over enthuesastic skyline "expert" says I am trying to make claims that I've built a better engine than Racepace or RIPS. (Not referring to you Steve, I'll just say that I have some fans...) Fact is I do not do this for a living, and what I have built has really only been made possible because of tid bits of information that RIPS and Racepace, and a few other top level builders have occasionally posted on SAU and GTR.CO.UK. These guys set the records and I have the upmost respect for their work. Here's the link to the stealth bomber build too: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/69822-my-r-i-p-s-rb30-build-24.html I was going to look at a water/meth kit, and then link it to the boost controller with a 2 nosel system in the intake hose before the plenum. And definatly dyno tune it. I have only been reluctant till now to book dyno time as my last experience with sending an engine away cost a small fortune. I want to make sure that everything is as good as I can make it before I start paying for someone to fix my mistakes.

Thanks Bobby. Im not concerned about the power figures yet. After all these results are a first dyno run with a street tune, and the engine is far from optimised for power. Based on the testing and the rich AFRs that were seen, I might be able to rescale the ECU's load bands to allow a little more boost (1.7 bar), which will max the injectors completely. That should see somewhere over 400kw once the cam timing and AFR's are sorted. Cam timing is going to affect this considerably though, so more boost is still a little ways off. I think that the retarded exhaust timing is colouring the AFR figures, raising EGTs and is why the top end isnt there yet. Once this is corrected it will become a different engine in top end. E85 isnt an option for me as its not sold at the pump in Cairns, and fuel by the drum isnt very practical. The compression of this engine is too low to make E85 efficent too. ID1000cc injectors and a water injection system are possabilities I am considering though. That would allow me to max the GTRS's and provide some safety at the same time. The torque does make it loads of fun to drive. Low down power was what this project was all about. I was comparing some dyno sheets today and noticed that I am making the same power (180kw)as the RIPS Stealth R34 does at 4000 RPM (that was one of my goals). I am also only 1000N away from the same peak torque figures as the Racepace Rb29. These two results alone make me feel pretty good about the first dyno session.

Video at last: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dR-LNctPhgY

A few pictures and the dyno sheets. Just editing the video now. Cam gears have been ordered and as luck would have it, the AVCR showed up today at lunch time.

The current inaccuracy is because ive used standard cam gears and cant get enough adjustment between using 2 tensioners. (instead of an idler and a tensioner), given the added engine height and longer timing belt. With my previous R33, 2 degress advance on the cam and 4 retard on the exhaust seemed to work well. R34's have different cam profiles and duration than the R32/33's I think so its anyone's guess as to what is a good starting point. At this stage I need to get it to 0/0 so I at least know where I am. So as it is at the moment is far from ideal , it does work at least which is really the main goal. Having it hold together. There was no worries for valve-piston interference as the engine is setup as a non-interference engine thanks to valve pockets in the piston crowns. One other interesting figure that explains the traction issue is 300kw @ 4600 rpm. It looks more like a V8 NA power curve than a turbo car.

I didnt quite reach my goals, but I guess you never do first time out. Had no problems though which was good and the car ran flawlessly. Results for this morning's efforts are: 270kw at 0.9 bar 330kw at 1.3 bar 347kw / 466hp@6300 RPM 620nm@4800 RPM 7118N @ 156km.h Boost was peaking at 24psi at 4500 rpm and dropping back to 22 at 7000. The eboost needs some tweaking with its correction factors to stop the drop off. AFR's were dipping into the 10's, so it seems my own wideband gear is pretty inaccurate. Only rev'd to 7000 as well. Ran out of time to do more and decided to pull the pin on tuning more today as ambient temps started to heat up and I really want to put in some cam gears and correct the timing. No sense in optimising what I know is already a good 6-7 degrees retarded on the intake and exhaust cams. All dyno runs were recorded in HD video, so i'll be uploading a heap of footage later tonight.

There is nearly 10K in just the mods you have described right there. I say 10K because who buys 2nd hand parts for their car if they really like it (not me). Besides all the low to the ground parts take a hiding, so 2nd hand usually means stuffed and ready to throw away. Vspec lip, splitter and splitter rear tray. $2500 easy. Diffuser $4K MFD2 upgrade $1500 (because you dont want to have a crappy 1999 screen on it and end up rebuilding the whole MDF... yes I have done this) Personally I'd prefer to buy a car with light "support" mods over a stock one, provided they are all big brands like nismo/trust/ganador etc. I'll also say that the vspecs do drive a little differently to the non-vspec r34's as well. The steering is lighter on the vspecs. Instrumentation is a little different too, with the tacho being logrithmic and not linear like the non-vspecs. The mechanical and electronic differences in the attessa and active LSD can be felt too when you get the cars sideways.... but i digress... Long story short. A non-vspec will never be a vspec, nor alone a spec 2. My thoughts... $60 for a good one, $65+ if its mint and <25,000km.

Both actuators share a common pressure line by via a T-piece. I use an air compressor with an air tool connected to the wastegate actuator line, and a precision gauge also T-d into the circuit so I can see whats really happening. Then starting with the air regulator would all the way back I slowly wind it up the pressure while monitoring the gauge. At the moment I have my actuators adjusted so they both release the pressure on the wastegate flap at 1 bar. Wind up the pressure a little more and both actuators should move in parallel. You can measure that by upping the pressure in steps, and measuring the actuator arm extension. If they dont move in unison then you have a jammed flap or a dud actuator diaphram/spring. Cheers! Update. Boost control issues are all sorted out, I just had to go back to basics and re-check everything to find the issue. In the end I found a vacuum hose that had split, so all my boost was just escaping to atmostphere. While troubleshooting the issue previously I had replaced that line once before, so I was surprised to see it split again. As it turns out that when running higher boost the engine moves just just enough on its mounts that it was able to break the hose. With the boost leak fixed the eboost is now working fine and I have been able to finish the base tune. The max boost tune is at 1.6 bar, which it now holds to 7500 rpm no problem. I have also maxed out the fuel system, with the sard 700's at nearly 100% duty at a around 5500 rpm but fuel requirements drop off quickly after 5500 (peak torque), and it reaches 100% again at 8000 rpm. It is crazy fun to drive at the moment. Dry ashphelt and 2nd gear traction loss starts to happen around 3500 rpm where its already at 1 bar of boost. If I stay into it it just snaps instantly to 7k with complete traction loss. The same thing happens in 3rd at around 5k. The RT615's are on the wear markers after only a week of driving! Im going to need new tires for the drive to Shepperton. So tomorrow is re-check everything day, followed by dyno time which is booked for 8am Monday morning. For the first time on the dyno I am realisticly hoping for around 400kw, as I know my camshaft timing is still a little out and I havent gotten some cam gears yet. I'll be using my new HD camera to get some good footage of the moment. I can't wait to have some actual numbers on paper!

All the malpassi 1:1 efi regs make that noise. Also, your base pressure should be set with the engine running and at idle. You then disconnect the vacuum line from the reg and set the base pressure to 3 bar. Lock down the adjuster and then re-connect the vacuum line. The vacuum will pull back the fuel pressure to around 2 bar if you have stock cams. Generally it wont make odd noises when the engine is running at any speed. Only as the pump primes initially. Also, you really cant beat a stock regulator for reliability, even at absurd power levels.

Stick to what is recommended from factory is my theory. Getrags are expensive to repair or replace.

Perhaps its just me but I dont see the point of a "Best Intruder" class when there are still other area's to add trophies for the skylines. "Best Engineered" for example. Sure its a pipe dream for me, but if the class existed, I would be stoked if I won it. Or of I didn't it would be nice at least to be compared with other highly engineered cars. Best modified R32/R33/R34 could also potentially have their own classes. Considering Im driving over 6000km to attend this event, I see "best intruder" as being about as important as the best commodore burnout. Both are things I won't be looking at while at a 'Skyline' event. (Dont take that as though I'm hating on your cube either. After all, my other car is a vw! We are all entitled to our bad tastes and insanities.)

Yes the turbo's shouldnt have survived that kind of boost. You have been very lucky, or you might have steel wheel N1 turbo's which is why they have held together. 1. Replace the pressure line from your plenum to your turbo's. Don't inspect it, just replace it. 2. Get an air compressor. Dial the regulator down to 0.6 bar (10psi), and blow pump up the line from your plenum to the turbo's. Your acutuators should be just starting to move at 0.6 bar. Increase the regulator to 0.8 bar (12lb), and check the actuators have moved identically, and again at 1 bar. This will either fix the problem, or it will show you where the problem exists. It could be: a split or blockage on the wastegate supply line somewhere. a stuck wastegate actuator way too much preload on the wastegate actuators a stuffed diaphram inside one or both of the actuators or... you have it all connected up incorrectly. Plenum boost source - > T-piece = 1 line to each turbo actuator. or Plenum boost source -> evc solenoid -> tpiece = 1 line to each turbo actuator. (make sure your solenoid port hookup is correct too) R34's dont over boost when you put big exhausts on them. It sounds like you read some technical advice that was posted by some 2JZ supra owner...

Unless you want to pull the head off the engine so you can clearence it without worrying about debris falling into the engine, then forget about high lift cams. If it requires clearencing, its far from a drop in affair. Unless as TO4 says, the cams might use a smaller base circle, which means re-shimming the valves. Not a task for the typical back yarder. A reduced base circle cam runs the same peak lobe height as a 9.15mm cam, but runs the back of the lobe (base circle) at a reduce diameter. Thicker shims are added to raise the bucket further off the valve. This translates to more lift at the valve, with no need for clearencing. But I really agree with beer baron. 272's should have a step 2 spring and are typically used in engines that rev to 9k. The whole point of longer duration cams is to move the peak torque point further up the rev range. Running 272's with standard springs will give you 2 results. 1. A reduced usable RPM power band 2. A wonky idle. Add any meaningful level of boost and you start getting valve float with standard spring/standard 8.7mm cams at around 7500. Higher lift and duration will bring that RPM level down considerably.

Im after some interior trims. Rear pasenger left and right side trims if the are flawless? Can you post pics and a price posted to QLD?