GTRNUR

I'm using two 460's in an R34 GTR. I've mounted one at the bottom where the strainer is and the other inside a PVC container where the OEM pump normally is. The container has a hose going through the bottom down to a second OEM pickup mounted next to the primary pump. I run a T piece on the return with a venturi on one side to retain the venturi pump, and the other side of the T goes to a hose that returns to the upper mounted pump container. This ensures the upper pump is always submerged such that it can prime and pull fuel from the bottom of the tank. Works flawlessly. Both pumps run all the time ensuring they are primed and also not stalled, I use PWM speed control on the pumps, referencing injector pulse width so its adaptive for 98 or E85.

If only I had night vision... Like the Japanese Starion entry in Canonball run 2. Precision 88mm +, and street.

That's pretty much how it went. My long drive started before dawn, and ended 14 hours later after dark. Using headlights on the way home put the charging system over the edge. After I got home I tried to re-start the car and only the pumps would run. Not even a solenoid click on the starter. I've made some changes to the PWM control for my cooling fans now though, such that when they are turned on their speed is PWM throttled back as vehicle speed increases. Eg, at 70km/h the cooling fan switches off completely as airflow is adequate at that point. Twin in-tank walbros are still PWM speed controlled linked to injector duty, so at cruise speeds the OEM alternator would probably be enough now. But I've never been happy with how the OEM alternator has always seemed to struggle. The 150A alternator is certainly going to remedy that.

The version 1 engine which was a 3.15lt (87x87.5) was an open deck design, where coolant could surround the entire top of the cylinder liners. While great for cooling, this also meant the top of the cylinder could deform due when under high cylinder pressures. The RB34 is a closed deck design, with an aluminium spacer which supports the tops of the cylinder liners, but reduces coolant flow around the tops of the cylinder liners. The RB33 currently in production is a further improvement on this design, using a steel spacer plate system with internal coolant galleries and no coolant flow to the cylinder head. The matched cylinder head has all the coolant galleries from the block CNC machined and plugged as well, such that no coolant flow enters the head via the block. Coolant is delivered to the head via an external connection, and drawn out via the plenum coolant manifold. This allows the engine to use a copper head gasket with no long term fears of having gas escape into the cooling system. It also eliminates any chance of a cooling system leak/explosion as a result of the cylinder head lifting under very high power use. Not that there is really much chance of this given the 5.6" long ARP625 studs, but when aiming for 1500hp I'm not taking any chances.

I have a PHR aftermarket top hat with a huge connector on it that allows running of two pairs of 34 amp wiring to the pumps. But if you want to keep a standard hat you can just drill and bolt some stainless steel M6 bolts through the OEM hat. Then run your electrical connections to that. EFI Hardware sell these with plastic insulators and rubber seals if you have to mount on a metal hat (like an R32).

Yes some progress has been made. All parts to complete the next two engines are in the hands of the machine shop awaiting final machining. If things are completed on time I'll have everything ready to assemble the "insane spec" RB33 next Friday. The RB32 that will follow will be a few more weeks after that. I changed my business name to Project RB recently too, and dropped open deck engines as none of the new engines are open deck anyway. I completed a 900km day trip about in the car about a month ago and have been driving every day that I can when its not raining. I believe there is about 16,000km on the new setup now. The long road trip revealed that my alternator can't keep up with the rest of the higher than normal electrical load in the car, so I've got a 150A alternator upgrade going in soon. That's about all. Fingers crossed for no more delays.

That can only mean you have not got enough fuel flow. Either due to a pinched pickup, or inadequate supply line from the tank. With regards to wiring, I always recommend overkill with the size of the wiring, especially inside the tank. I'm using 34amp Teflon coated wiring to my twin in-tank walbro 460's. No issues at all. Note: That is assuming your not trying to run more base pressure than say 43psi and no more than 30psi, so not more than 75-80psi at the pump.

+1. First 044 failed after only 5 months. Switched to walbro 460s.

With an entirely in tank setup, if you try and push too much fuel through the syphon jet it will not work properly or at all. Not to mention your fuel pressure goes out of control due to back pressure in the return line. I'm using a pump jet on one side of a Y fitting inside the tank. How well does it work? Well with the tank on empty and running both pumps, it was back to 1/4 after about 1-2 minutes of pump operation.

Simple... A small electric syphon pump. I considered going that way too until I realised a syphon works fine on a Y fitting inside the tank if your return has a high flow rate. Any serious track car is probably running an under car surge tank too, keeps the fumes, fuel and danger out of the boot.

Just thought I'd share my upgraded my fuel system setup that I instaled on the weekend. I used similar mounting to (whatsisname's) twin walbro 460 pump setup. One pump mounted next to the OEM pickup, second pump mounted in a 50MM bottom capped PVC tube, in the OEM position. There is a hole through the bottom PVC cap for AN6 3/8th hose that runs to an OEM pickup in the OEM position. Supply from the tank to rail is AN8, return is AN6. Just inside the tank on the return I have an AN6 Y fitting, with a venturi pump on one side to retain the syphon pump function from the left side of the tank. On the other side of the Y fitting, I run a 5/16th hose to the PVC container that holds the second pump. This ensures the pump is always able to prime via the 2 pump priming holes located in the bottom of the pump. As with the twin in tank 044 setup, Im still using PWM fuel pump speed control based on injector duty cycle. With the slight change that I run both pumps all the time. 60% from idle increasing to 100% at 50% injector duty. I decided that running both pumps all the time would be a good idea to prevent a pump from failing due to low usage, as was what happened with the old setup. Fuel temps have dropped at least 5 degrees over the 044 pumps, probably more as I was driving with the low fuel light on when I last checked, working on running the tank to empty at the moment so I can swap fuel again. I was seeing 60 degrees C with the 044's.

The main reason I wanted adjustability was because I have altered my K frame height. This combined with having lowered the vehicle meant that the role centre of the car was thrown out the window. Unless you have RB30 conversion and have spacer induced handling issues, and really want to correct it properly, I would recommend you replace your standard ones instead. My final set up uses r33 Control arms, with adjustable castor rods, and 30 mm of roll centre adjustment achieve by custom laser cut spacers that I made. I am probably going to go in for another wheel alignment in a month or two, raise the car 10 mm and remove 10 mm of roll Centre adjustment. Only because the car is difficult to get in and out of driveways. Other than that the car handles great. It's not nervous at all at any speed.

Not much to report on really. I'm getting used to driving the car, and have decided I want to fix what is holding back the current setup from making 800+ and having that utterly terrifying top end acceleration. So a few weeks ago I placed a few more orders and now the parts are rolling in. In the short term I am sticking with the 6466 and have just got a 1.30 housing upgrade for it, to allow the engine to breath better in top end. From what the 3.4lt supra guys tell me, I'm going to notice very little drop in response, yet will gain power that climbs to redline. I'm will be maxing out the injectors too, so another fuel pump upgrade is again in order. I'm swapping out the 044's and am installing a pair of walbro 460's instead, having now worked out how to mount them so they prime properly. Under the bonnet I've changed the oil separator to a custom Autech style oil unit of my own design. I use a cone at the high end for the can as the vapour outlet, and there is 5 layers of oil separation baffles inside the can, with a return to sump drain at the low side. On the next two engine front, I have the cylinder head for the lower spec motor now. Ported, +1/+1, Tomei 280/11.5's with supertech valves and springs. I'm still having a hold up with big cylinder head. Parts delays are the worst as they bring projects to a stand still...

With the service you have received, as well as being ignored whilst you extended them the opportunity to make it right... I'd be wielding the biggest stick I could find. There is a line that has been crossed in terms of respect. Good luck Pete. and in the meantime enjoy your torque monster beast.

Well its pretty straight forward where to go from here. 1. Send a letter of demand containing a copy of the repair invoices and evidence discovered, a decided upon remuneration amount, and an accompanying date at which more serious legal action will commence by registered mail to the company. (If your wound up about this, consider getting some help from a dispassionate friend, or going straight to the solicitor. Emotional demand letters get ignored) and/or 2. Have initial discussions with a solicitor to discuss the course of action to engage court action. Potentially have the solicitor send the letter of demand (which shouldn't cost more than $1-1.5k), as solicitor letterhead tends to put the fear of god into SOME people. 3. Be prepared for them to completely ignore the demand letter, as this is not uncommon for arrogant people. In which case your probably in for a 6-12 month process. The solicitor should start court proceedings without delay. 4. Once the matter goes to court and if the summons is ignored again, the court will rule in your favour. The court will rule in your favour, and a notice to pay before a specific date will be sent. 5. Ignoring a court notice to pay opens up avenues to file for bankruptcy, or to apply for a warrant for seizure and sale of the oppositions property. Its not a pleasant process to go through, but once started its like a freight train and wont be stopped unless you decide to pull the pin. I recommend having a solicitor manage the whole process, as its a whole lot less stressful and in addition to this there will be no mistakes made.

They sucked on a 3.15lt too. Shuffled at 2000 RPM making a MAF sensor tune impossible. Despite the averaging the comparator inputs on the ECU working the data from both MAF sensors, getting a consistent 14.7:1 at light load cruise just could not be done. The load cell would move around the map when engine speed and vacuum was not actually changing. I didn't have the surge issues that the smaller motors have, but the shuffling would happen all the way till the wastegates were open (and probably a little after that too). Full boost was at 4500. If your trying to hide what your have under the bonnet, and don't mind having a 6000-9000 rpm power band and no low end drivability then they are great! If your driving the engine under load from below wastegate regulated boost, they will be terrible in comparison to the -5's or anything else. Paul Diemer's setup used SR20 GT-RS's 0.86 housings, and I believe he switched to the HKS balanced low mount manifolds too, which to a degree will have eliminated shuffle by balancing back pressure to the turbine, reducing the miss-match issue... at the expensive of even more lag. You can bet that Paul was reving the hell out of his 2.6.

What the? Please elaborate ?

Sorry no I'm not taking orders yet, but I can say that one of the two engines being built at the moment will be for sale. That is once we see our first 4 digit power figure in testing. The price is going to be quite high as it is not a large production run, and also the two builds are being done with no expense spared. Every part is now custom built for huge strength. ARP625 studs throughout, pistons that cost more than a complete rebuild, special coatings and materials, and a couple more experimental refinements. Here's a sneek peek of one of the bottom end's before sleeving. Steel billet main caps + girdle plate with 12mm studs. I am trialing a Platinum Racing girdle plate on the second engine.

Ha ha, you guys beat me to it! The RB34 is a finished project for the most part too. The two engines being machine at the moment that are based on the RB34 design are certainly going to cause a stir in the GTR world. Some of those guys you mentioned are familiar, some are members of the Cairns skyline facebook group. We haven't gone on cruise for a very long time though. This will probably been changing with a new JDM group that is forming up here though.

Nothing real significant at this stage. Ive been driving the car whenever its not raining, which hasn't been that often up here unfortunately. When doing some maintenance today, I was under the car and discovered I've done a right front CV boot. Grease splattered all over my newly painted TE37s. Such is GTR ownership... Machining of the next two blocks is coming along nicely. Billet main cams, ARP stud kits and girdle plates installed. Sleeving next week all going well.

I use Ignition Project / Plazma direct coils as a bolt in solution that uses an OEM loom. That and copper BCPR-7ES plugs gapped at 0.65, no sign of ignition issues at all. 705hp atw.

I don't think there is much mustang left in that car. Pushrod suspension. It has more in common with a pargani zonda. Safe to say the V8 would be a custom billet block based motor too. Resembling the dimensions of another OEM manufacturer in some dimensions only. Purpose built go-fast toy !

It will last provided he isn't out doing silly launches with it. I think there is more low end in your setup too Pete. The 6466 I have isn't all that larger than your 6266, but I am making about 130kw more at 4000 than you. This is with the intake cam advanced about 5-6 degrees too, to maximize mid range. I'd wager that your cylinder head porting is a fair bit more aggressive than mine too. Not to mention your bad ass high lift unigroup cams vs my Tomei 272 pro cams which are technically a mid range cam.

Glad its finally back together again Pete. What a pain in the ass of a problem to have to go through.

I guess you never saw Fight Club.