GTRNUR

Yeah thats the old 1970's Camaro's. You can buy every single part of the car as an new aftermarket spare component, including the chassis/shell. http://www.corbettsauto.com/1969_camaro_new_body_parts.htm

Sounds like a nice place to live. Im getting sick of being washed away or melted/burnt to a crisp in our 35 degree+ 90+% humidity. Cooling struggles on a days like that, but I think you'll probably get away with the drag core in your moderate temps and with no aircon condensor restricting radiator airflow. Another thought... the T51Kai is a bit big for 600hp. A T04z would make that power with less lag. The monster intercooler is going to add some lag too. Though if its drag only then anti-lag solves these problems.

There was that bare falken prepared race car shell floating around a few years back. Cage built all the way through it, acid dip lightened shell too I believe. Anyone's guess where that is now though. Not new technically, but if you wanted to build something special it would be a great place to start.

And ambient air temps? Are you sure there will be no in traffic driving. If the car is drag only, its hard to go past NXTIME's Trust intercooler for $1700. The nismo cores are another $700 on this. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/325811-trustgreddy-drag-intercooler-150mm-new/page__p__5628306__hl__drag+intercooler__fromsearch__1#entry5628306 Nismo is definatly more streetable as it wont interfere with radiator airflow as much as a drag(super thick) core will. Nismo parts are unbeatable for fitment and quality too. They come with all the gaskets, special bolts and new air temp sensor etc, all in Nissam factory part boxes. Without aircon you may get away with a drag core on the street though as well, you just have to be prepared to chop the hell out of your front bar to make it fit.

Best for your application ? What is that ? Also, what is your typical ambient air temps ? Do you still have aircon in the car? How much power? These relate to airflow to your radiator and what kind of core is optimal for your application.

Hi David, Do you have a documented copy of the rs232 communications protocol (commands an expected packet response formats) for the HAKO unit? I'd been thinking of writing some kind of dash/MFD extension software that could plug into the ECU and display available data graphically. On occasion ive tried searching for this data but havent ever found much useful information...

I figure the Ztune R34's went with the shorter splitter to favor cooling a little more than downforce. If anything its the back of the car that can do with more traction. The front has an engine and awd system keeping it on the ground. I'd be sending the splitter back. Stuff buying a part and then having to "fix" it before you can use it. Once you cut carbon and re-join it, it will never have even close to the original strength of an un-modified product. They probaly sent you a splitter that is narrower to fit an R34 GTT front bar or something...

Good price. Whats wrong with the splitter too? The narrower splitter I believe is designed to work with the Rtune bonnet, which pulls cool air from under the car, past the back of the radiator and out the bonnet vents with the hot radiator exhaust air.

A client selling his hilux on carsales had this same scam attempted with him. He strung them along a bit to try and obtain some email header information to workout what servers they are using. I doubt it will pan out though.

Bump again.

Saw the genuine nismo one for sale on ebay in the UK this morning...

Ive got the same Trust Ti-R system on my car at the moment. The note is awesome. I love that it vibrates the garage door when the car is idling at ~900 rpm. Plenty deep enough a note with a little more displacement. Havent tried setting off carpark alarms yet but I think it could probably do it. Mine had a 3" flange on it too, but expands out to 90mm/3.5" for the rest of the pipe work. Its straight forward to cut off the titanium flange and change it to a slip fit join so you can link a 3.5" cat to it with no size changes after the cat.

No I dont think anyone does have the results yet, or at least there isnt enough of these turbo's out there on similar cars to form a real comparison. One result of more lag is unfortunatlly not enough to form a real opinion. But based on what they GTX turbo's are supposed to do (supported by flow chart data), they should produce less lag for the same cartridge type along with more power. Someone needs to to back to back testing with a GT3076R and a GTX3076R. Thats the only way to really prove a result.

I believe the issue with the ARP studs had to do with one stud needing a little trimming so it wouldnt interfere with the AWD sump in GTR conversion. But if youve chopped hell out of your sump and added extensions and modified baffles/windage/trapdoors etc (as most tend to do) then the stud problem probably dissapears too.

As luck would have it, the Nismo fuel pump arrived and was installed friday. I didnt have time to perfect the tune as the rain up here has again not let off but managed to get it safe enough to participate in the track day. The disappointment was in that as it was a practice track day with a lot of new drivers, and there was water over the track in a lot of places we were not able to use the whole track. So the event was instead a motorkarna. Also my video camera stopped working after my first pass on the timed sections. Finally it started pooring down rain before I got to do a 3rd pass, so I gave that a miss. The most impressive spin of the day went to the owner of a 650hp tuned 997 turbo decided to see what would happen when he turned off all the driver aids. Here's the video of my fist pass. Sorry not even remotely impressive but its better than nothing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV_6L6wXVpU And a few pics are attached. All in all the engine and the car performed extremely well and more importantly, it held together. The track is really tight and the car never achieves full boost anywhere. The entire circuit is driven in 2nd, except for a moment when I tried a change up to 3rd but all that does is un-settle the car into the corner. The engine achieves perhaps 1 bar at the most, as I shifted gears below 5000 rpm. The torque still made it fun enough to get a little sideways. In 2nd gear the engine will achieve full boost somewhere a little below 5000 rpm. The drive home was a lot more fun as in 3rd or 4th is where its really amazing. 1.4 bar boost by 4500 in 3rd or 4th. So everything is in place to do some dyno sessions now, hope to do that in a week or so when work slackens off again. Have to get a new video camera too.

How hot is a hot day, and do you run an air-con system with condensor in front of the radiator? The more grout you have, the less watercooling you have, and therefore the hotter the block core temp and oils will become. 35 degrees and no aircon wouldnt be a problem, but on a hot day in traffic with aircon the cooling system would struggle. Keep in mind that the largest heat exchanger that easily fits the front of the car is the radiator. Its not easily possible to create an oil cooler enough to make enough difference. I'd suggest doing a search on grouting, and seeing how high others have filled their blocks. I believe below the welsh plugs is common. I've personally gone above the plugs but my block is also taller with longer rods. As a result the liners in the block are exposed to combustion heat further up the cylinder than with a normal engine. RB30 blocks benefit from a partial fill as much as any other block. Rigidity adds torsional strength and dampons harmonics.

What about doing a partial grout fill of the block? Everthing ive read about blocks cracking had to do with over 400kw combined with big launches. So its more of a twisting issue than a harmonic issue that was causing the blocks to fail. I think a grout fill combined with a plate like Baron is suggesting it could be pretty dam strong. If you then wanted to go completely over board you could sleeve all 6 cylinders, then grout fill and bore, AND use the torque plate. Depending on your climate, and your fuel (and especially if your running E85), I'd see no reason you couldn't do a fill to just above the welsh plugs. This is done prior to the rebore of course. The last 05u block I sleeved broke through into water jackets on all 6 cylinders around the height of the welsh plugs, which tells me that if you bore to 92mm (for the sleeve), your cylinders are getting pretty thin at 87.5. ie < 1.5-2mm.

Thanks for your thoughts Richard. I've decided I dont want to turn the car into some sort of crazy race car. I like it as a streeter, so i'll just keep fuel surge under control by running a full tank. That means a Nismo pump is the best option. Your right about the intercooler and radiator situation too. Glad to report my cooling system works extremely well. Crusing in traffic yesterday with the aircon blasting at 24 degrees, outside temps were 36 degrees and the engine coolant temp sat on 83, oil on 95. Considering the block is grout filled above the welsh plugs too, im happy with that result. Coolant temps drop below 80 and oil below 90 on the highway when Im able to maintain 80km/h. The thing that made the largest improvement to the cooling (when stuck in traffic) was that I replaced all the seals around the shroud, so any air that is drawn in via the fan can only come through the radiator. This meant cutting up a lot of little pieces of rubber to fit between the core and sections of the framework of the shroud that are behind the aircon thermo fan, as the shroud doesnt fit the 40mm PWR radiator all that perfectly. Ive also cut out the bottom of the air slots in the back of the left inner guard lining to allow exhaust from the 19 row earls cooler, but havent done anything to the front of the car to get more airflow to the radiator. A Ztune or Nismo front bar will only improve oil cooling, which is on the cards. Yes the injectors are SARD 700's. Based on how the tuning is going so far, the injectors will be around 13.5ms at 8000 rpm at 1.5 bar boost, which is right on 90% duty. The compression of this engine is too low to warrant using E85 (<9:1). If I do feel the need to do something extra, it will probably be the addition of a meth/water injection system.

You can use the service manuals for the R32/R33 gtr's for the engine torque specs. And the R33 service manual for the specs for torque for everything suspension related. If you search around the net you can find these in downloadable PDF form pretty easily, and there used to be someone selling them on ebay too.

Same questions as above! Im also keen to hear what you say about fitment, and how well the factory under trays and wheel arch inner guard plastics tie into the glass parts. Ive also heard the genuine nismo R tune bonnets are appropriately re-enforced so they dont require bonnet pins, and that many of the after market ones do require pinning. I'd like to hear more about your bonnet and whats recommended for attachemnt.

You could try and put the car up on ramps with the back wheels and stands at the front. Wheel a trolly under the engine and gearbox and lift the trolly up to the engine and gearbox, then lower it down to the floor. Then use your crane to lift the front of the car up high enough so you can roll the trolly out. The ramps under the rear wheels will ensure you dont scrape the back end of the car on the ground. Using a block and tackle to the roof to lift the car is another approach ive seen. Its a lot of hard work if you havent done it before, so its a good idea to get someone involved thats has done it to make sure you dont un-necessarily remove things that dont need to be removed. You'd be surprised just how complete the whole assembly does come out.

Serious acid that stuff is. One of the few acids that can disolve glass. They store it in glass containers that are lined with parifin wax. It eats plastics too. Inhaling fumes from the stuff (basically flurine gas) is worse than but similar to chlorine, or pure carbon monoxide. It instantly combines with and neutralises your red blood cells so they cant carry oxygen. So your body loses the ability to process air and you suffocate while trying to breath frantically. Probably one of the most terrifying ways to die I can think of. Hope you recover soon Paul. I want to hear all about this top secret engine project of yours that I keep hearing whispers about!

Too windy and wet actually! We had this catagory 5 cyclone buzz by recently. Fortunatly i'd spent the better half of the last 12 months updating my house roofing, guttering, and removing all the large trees that threatoned the house (and more importantly the garages)! No damage at all other than blocked downpipes from all the debris from neighbours trees. The latest with the engine is that it going very well. Over 2500K's on it now. I have upgraded the cat to a 3.5" (4" body) high-flow and replaced the 80mm nismo exhaust with a 90mm titanium trust R system. I've also finally put a boost controller on the engine so it maintains 0.8 bar through to redline now (currently 7K). Im pretty sure i'll run out of fuel if I crank any more boost into it though as I'm still only using a standard R34 pump. I havent yet made up my mind on how to proceed fuel system wise. I dont want to have a noisy fuel system that makes the car smell of fuel vapor, so perhaps an under car surge tank will be the go. The tune is for the most part sorted, though I'll be touching it up a little this week in preporation for the engines first track day. Im not going to be trying to be competetive at this first event for the year. The intention is to go there and make a lot of noise and tire smoke, and have some fun, and of course take some video of the car getting a little sideways. Should be a hoot!

RB25DET cams are designed with VCT in mind, and wont work with an RB20. RB26 cams have been fitted to RB20's though. Do a search and you'll come back with plenty of info. 2nd hand stock R32/R33 GTR cams are pretty cheap too when you can find them.

Thats an easy fix. Heat broken stud up with a LPG blow torch or oxy. Then let it cool. Then get some vice grips and unscrew it. The heat will expand the stud, then shrink back making it easier to remove from the turbine housing. Giving it a few light taps with a hammer will also help free up the corrosion on the threads. You want to use new studs all through the exhaust side of the engine and on the new turbo's as well, the old ones are very head fatiuged and 1/2 the time the break off in the head before you un-bolt the manifolds.