GTRNUR

Thats an easy fix. Heat broken stud up with a LPG blow torch or oxy. Then let it cool. Then get some vice grips and unscrew it. The heat will expand the stud, then shrink back making it easier to remove from the turbine housing. Giving it a few light taps with a hammer will also help free up the corrosion on the threads. You want to use new studs all through the exhaust side of the engine and on the new turbo's as well, the old ones are very head fatiuged and 1/2 the time the break off in the head before you un-bolt the manifolds.

I'll be first to subscribe. Looks like you have a quite a mission ahead of you. What's the goal with the car? A little fun on the street, sprints, circuit/time attack? Just a suggestion too, have your block cylinder thickness checked before you buy your pistons and bore to 87.5. The 87.5mm bore in a standard block means your bores are potentially only 2mm at their thinnest (which is towards the bottom of the cylinder around the height of the welsh plugs). Keep the updates coming!

And there in lies the problem with your "compression test". Cylinder pressure attained in a compression test is a function of engine rotation speed and cylinder seal (rings, head gasket and valves). Any variation in speed means a variation in your results. This is why compression tests are done with a starter motor that can be cranked over continuously until a maximuim rotating speed is reached. The only thing you can do with a breaker bar is position each cylinder at TDC for when you perform a leak down test using an air compressor and leakdown test tool. Just because you've done something, it doesnt mean you did it the right way.

SVS in newall street. They have more skyline tuning experience in that place than anyone else in Cairns. Be clear and specific about what you want done, and let them know of any problems that need to be corrected too. Keep in mind that a tune wont fix a problem, and its possible to tune around some issues and just get a crap result as well.

I'd love to see someone try and turn over an engine at 250-300 RPM with a breaker bar. I think more likely you will bust your gut just getting 30RPM. Piston rings dont close up till the engine is hot, so the leak down/blow by when cold would mean you'd be lucky to get 70psi.

You might be able to borrow a VL RB30 auto tranny bell housing and starter motor from someone. Thats to get it cranking. It wont spin over on itself and can be held by one person when cranking. If your careful you can put some wood under the sump and prevent any rocking from damaging the sump. Ideally you'd use the engine mounts and a frame to hold the engine, but since your not starting it you will get away with it.

Disk Internals NTFS recovery will do it. It scans for directories, files and folders at a sector level and then allows you to extract the data to another drive. They key to recovery is not modifying an already damaged disk, as while its damaged it is still partially readable. Once you go overwriting parts of the disk you cant go backwards again.

Google "toyota ferrari top gear live".

I hope not... or Clarksons credability will take a huge drop among his enthusiest peers. I love the show, but its got to be real. So if that means Real Ferrari's in a static display or pretend Ferrari's in a driving display, I'll take the static display any day. Such fake car representation is worse than putting GTR badges on a GTS, or even chev badges on Commodores. The VW chassis'd R34 GTR they used in Fast & Furious 4 would fit right in if pretend cars are what TGL is going to be all about.

Well here's my suggested thoights for the bottom end: Consider a partial grout fill, to just above the welsh plugs. This is done after you acid wash and before you bore the block, and before all machining work. Drill and slot the mains to support RB26 bearings. ACL race series RB26 mains and RB30 race series rod bearings. Shave the cradle 0.001" and fit and ARP main stud kit. Torque to spec and then align bore to round. Aim for a bearing clearance of at least 0.003 to 0.0035" on the mains. Carillo or pauter rods, again aim for 0.003 to 0.0035" clearance. 22mm gudgens would be a good idea. Have your head CC'd and do your CR calculations based on a 0 deck and get a custom piston with an RB26 dome profile to suit your target CR. Eg 9:1 needs a 5-6cc dome depending on whats done to your head. Use a good piston like a CP or wiseco, 22mm gudgens would be a good idea as well. Have the crowns ceramic coated and the skirts moly coated. Follow the manufacturer settings for the ring gapping when filing the rings to fit the bores. I'd be leaning towards 12mm ARP head studs, but since that modification requires drilling and tapping the block, you may as well go for 1/2" and have thread inserts put into the block as well. If you go 1/2" you will also need custom dowels to locate the head to the block. Some will say that is over engineering but they all say that till it breaks is my theory. Fit your head studs and torque plate, and bore to piston spec sheet clearance. 87mm max bore unless you want to entertain sleeving, which will open a bunch of other options. You must use a torque plate, especially with the ARP head studs as the bores go very out or round with the extra torque the 1/2" studs can pull on the block. Measure deck height in cylinder 1+6 and level shave the deck of the block to achieve a 0.000" deck on all cylinders, giving you a 0.047" deck height with the 1.2mm gasket. Drill and tap threads into the oil galleries at each end of the block, and use tapered plugs with thread sealer when assembling. This is necessary to ensure your oil plumbing is 100% clean. If you are using a standard RB30 crank, have it drilled and grub screwed as well. Use a medium loctite on the grub screws when assembling. Wide colar fitted to the crank snout isnt needed with the dry sump, so dont machine the standard one off the crank. Since you have a decent external oil pump you will need to experiment with the oil flow/gearing requirements that will allow you to achieve about 10psi/1000 RPM you intend to use. This will require more flow than the average engine due to the increased engine clearances. I presume you have one scavenge from the back of the head and two from the sump with a 4 stage pump. This is the most common approach. Also do a search for the oil control thread here somewhere on the forum, and determine what restrictor setup you want to run. A blocked rear and 1.5mm front is pretty standard. As for the head gasket, I'd recommend a standard gasket, but also consider having your head o-ringed to match the block with a w-ring arrangement. One ring fits inside the other when it crushes the gasket. This with hylomar on the gasket creates the ultimate seal for your fluids and combustion. It will never blow out. This is just my opinion, for what its worth. Im no expert and have learned what I have from others that shared their information and from breaking a few things along the way. If you cant get this machining done locally in Canada (ie torque plate honing) properly, you should just box up your head and block and send the lot to RIPS and have them do the whole build for you. If you can afford a build like this, freight to New Zealand and back is a drop in the ocean as far as money is concerned.

In theory metal transfers heat better from the head to the block, so copper does that better than MLS steel, and steel better than stock. But oil cooling is where most high reving track engines suffer anyway, due to oil spray to the bottom of the pistons mostly doing what its designed to do. That being pulling heat out of the piston crown. The best advice I can offer is to go an talk to someone that builds RB track engines for a living and have them put together a setup for you. Racepace for example. Trying to do it 'successfully' as a first time project is a lot to expect and will often end in tears or great expense, probably both. Also are you serious about your 700-800whp? To build an engine like that for track you definatly want an experts advice. That level of power tends to break everything else in the driveline like a twig so be prepared to open the wallet. And you'd better be able to drive better than Mark Scaife too, because the Group A cars didnt make that much power. If you want the engine to last more than a day you will need a good $40K+, not counting driveline. Even if you have all the tools and all the skills to do the assembly and tunng yourself, its a $30K project easily. There are a few cars for sale at the moment that are built with similar power levels but they are not track ready yet. Whole cars tend to cost a good $120K upwards that can meet your 'requirements'.

Finally back online again after the cyclone! Have you got any data for the depth of the o-ring grove and know what diameter the wire ring is? You need to take a few measurements. I havent used copper rings in my engine. They are stainless, and I use a standard gasket with them and a spray on coating of hylomar. The general rule is 1/6 to 1/4 of the head gasket is how far you should have the o-ring protrudeing from the top of the block. Superglue them into the block to stop them moving when the gasket is put on as well, or they can tend to move. I use a product called ZAP which is an ultra thin superglue that you get from hobby shops. Definatly use a few coats of hylomar on the gasket if your using a steel or copper gasket. You can probably get away without it with a standard gasket but really why risk it when the head is off. On another tangent, Ive used copper head gaskets in my VW engines (which has basically the same cylinder sealing principals as a sleeved open deck engine). The trick with the vw's is to use a propane torch to heat the gasket up to a cherry red (done with them laying flat on a piece of alloy sheet), and then let them air cool. This softens/aneals the metal, so it better takes up deformaties in the two sealing surfaces. This tracks with what r33_racer says, with having a copper o-ring seal to the mls headgasket. I'd be very nervous about using steel on steel with this approach though as the steel will not compress, so copper only with MLS. I'd lean towards 1/6th exposed o-ring height as well. If the o-ring distorts the gasket too badly, the gasket will leak all over the place, coolant in oil etc. Most MLS gaskets have some sort of o-ring arrangement built into the combustion area anyway. Either as part of the embossing or as an o-ring that is between the MLS layers. Have a read about what Nitto do. The idea is to have a greater sealing pressure concentrated around the combustion chambers. Both o-ring blocks and MLS gaskets do this the same way. The difference is that the standard gaskets seal much better than a MLS gasket, and will tolerate far more surface distortion before the develop a leak.

I wonder how many 2 wheeled suiciders go out to make movies like this to post on youtube, but end up as a stain on the side of someone's car.

Bump... this stuff is still up for grabs: 1 x 1999 R34 GTR MFD standard map sensor $25 1 x new 2000+ R34 GTR MFD Toshiba LCD screen, $100. 6 x R34 Vspec2 440cc injectors $300 neg 1 x R34 Power FC with hand controller $800 neg

I don't think he understands what he is referring to either. All RB26 R32-R34 head castings are all the same. There is certainly nothing you can identify from looking at the outside of the head. Looking forward to seeing what you'll do to an R35 if thats what's next Matt.

A track battle would only be fair if the same driver was used in all the cars... A stig for lack of a better name for it. I know for a fact that Im not a good enough driver to push the limits of my car consistantly. I struggle all day to get one lap perfect. Consistancy requires real tallent. I also had this ... possibly stupid idea. Im planning to take 2 weeks off work and attend the SAU event in October. If the next battle is going on around the same time I'd like to apply to enter the event.

Im not after a standard pump. Nismo or Tomei only. I need to piece together a fuel system that will support around 600hp.. so twin 044's would be of interest too

This stuff is sold:

All items do not include freight. Im interested in swapping for other parts to suit my R34, PM me if you have anything of interest. I've got a stack of MFD parts left over after messing around with MFD upgrades. First off, is the Pre2000 Sharp stuff. These parts may be useful for anyone that needs to try and repair their 1999 Sharp MDF. 1 x 1999 R34 GTR MDF sensor input board $50. I believe this will also work in a 2000+ GTR provided you have the correct LCD interface board to suit the toshiba screen. Its the non-vspec model, so no air or exhaust temps. 1 x 1999 R34 GTR MDF Sharp LCD interface board (probably ok, but may be damaged as the LCD that it was driving stopped working) $25 1 x 1999 R34 GTR MFD Sharp LCD screen, broken. The screen was looking pretty blotchy and if I had to guess the backlight has blown. $free with the LCD interface board. The screen has a HV power supply module that is removable from the LCD that may also be useful. 1 x 1999 R34 GTR MFD standard map sensor $25 I have one new Toshiba MFD screen that I was intending to modify to suit the Sharp LCD driver board. But I no longer have the time or the patience to do this work. The data sheets for the screens are available on the internet should you be electronics savy and want to give it a try. In the end I couldnt be bothered and bought a complete nismo mfd instead. The new screen cost me about $70USD+ freight so whoever wants a cheap screen here it is. Or if your brave you can attempt the modification I was going to do. 1 x new 2000+ R34 GTR MFD Toshiba LCD screen, $100. Something useful I learned is that some CDroms have ribbon cables that are suitable (connector fingers at the top and bottom of the cable) that can be cut down to work as MDF ribbon cables. Patience and a sharp blade does wonders. I was going to make an adapter circuit that would sit in the middle between the driver board and the screen, but never got around to finishing it. 6 x R34 Vspec2 440cc injectors $300 neg 1 x R34 Power FC with hand controller $800 neg PM or phone/txt 0434 147 478 Cheers, Ian

Is that a raised deck OS30 or hi-deck rb28, or an RB30 ? The cam covers look suspisious close to the strut tower brace. The comment made about RB29's Vcam setup in that thead seemed to indicate a custom v-cam system, not a hks kit? Having never seen it though I can only go on what other misinformation is out there... Like the rumor that Paul of Red-R racing is developing a vcam style arrangement...

I like the v8 idea for insanity. I heard RIPS did a VH41dett in a GTR for someone in the UK, so its possible. Or a Spool 3.4lt RB30. Or a RIPS 3.3lt RB30. Or a Nitto 3.2lt RB30. Its possible to do a 3.2lt in an Rb26 block as well, the advantage being no fittment issues or adapter plates required. Nearly anything is possible if you have a fat enough budget.

Its not uncommon to see air temps in the 60 degree plus area when tuning in the tropics, especially if your stuck in 60km/h traffic. Even at a cruise speed of 80-100 it will still hover around 54-55 degrees in the middle of the day. So if you factor in the ignition retard vs air temp, plus the fact the air is a lot less dense, it will run richer and with less ignition during the day. There is more chance of detonation at night as the air is more dense, and there is no ignition retard in effect to keep it 'safe';

Similar boost response to my setup. RB26 hideck stroker 3.15lt (87x87.5) Vspec 2 stock cams Trust extension split dumps, Nismo cat and 80mm Nismo exhaust 0.8 bar boost with no boost controller, just a direct wastegate connection at the moment Ceramic coated match ported manifolds Ceramic coated HKS GTRS's BP98 D-Jetro Full boost at around 3800-3900. Makes boost around 2000 rpm in 1st or 2nd. Virtually no lag to speak of. I still havent done a power dyno tune yet. Ive got a few more things to change and sort out on the car yet. My power goal is 450awkw. I'd be interested to know what final RPM and boost you ran to achieve your power figure.

BoostedR's build data from the -5 vs GTRS thread That result proves you can lean on the engine a lot more with just 10% methanol. A water/meth injection setup would produce a similar result.

You might have more luck with the GTROC forum, as the UK delivered Vspec 2's had a NISMO MFD as OEM equipment. There is a good chance that they may have shipped with an english version of the software as well. If you do track it down let me know. I just upgrade to a NISMO MFD2 and have nothing but Japanese software as well.