GTRNUR

I hope the head was clearanced for the high lift cams when it was rebuilt because 9.7mm lift cams will not fit an un-clearanced head. I recommend removing the belt as well. So radiator out, fan off, harmonic balancer off, bottom cover off. Align your timing marks on the oil pump and cam backing covers and then work the service manual. The service manual contains all the torque specs you will need, and you definatly should not be attempting this if you dont have a copy of it. Its also worth considering changing your idler and tensioner bolts with new ones, and possibly the bearings themselves if they are aged. Always torque exactly to spec as well. Remember RB26's are interference engines, and it will end in tears if you dont do it 100% correct!

I just had a look at the pictures on the SpeedHunters website, and looking at the colour in good light I'd have to say it is virtually identical to the Porsche Atlas Grey colour that first appeared on the Careera GT's, and has since been available on every 911 since the 997's. http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009/08/27/car-feature-gt-gt-top-secret-competizione-r-the-rebirth.aspx http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/gt3-gt2-gt/204560-any-other-atlas-grey-997-2-gt3-out-there.html Beautiful colour, though hard to keep clean.

Theres more to it than the counterweights that will make the Nitto better harmonic wise compared to the Spool 3.4 crank. The smaller the throw of the Nitto crank allows for more material overlap between the mains and big ends, which makes the crank stronger when it comes to twisting and also with resisting the effects of harmonic vibrations. See the attached PDF file. Then there is also the material quality used, heat treating and stress relieving processes undertaken during the machining processes. It all contributes to maintaining the strength of the material. And the rest. There is always the little bits to add on that arent remembered until the engine is in the car. Generally you can add another $5-7K in incidentals alone. Then there is tuning, and the inevitable issues that develop and kinks that need to be worked out that eat away at your savings. Crank Overlap.pdf

The clunking noise is the getrag gearbox. They all do that at idle and at low speeds. The only way to check the clutch is to remove the pressure plates and measure up the friction disc thicknesses. Chances are that it will be fine though. These twin plates take a hell of a lot of abuse.

All the RB26's have identical sensors. The R34's just have an additional sensor in the intercooler. The data for it is only displayed on R34's with a vspec2 or higher MFD version.

They use a stepper control with an electronic controller on the porsches. There is a lot more to it than just controlling boost as well. When the engine is off boost the electronics cycle the veins back and fourth to stop them jaming up. Its safe to say the porsche versions are a fair bit different than the VGT's that are used on diesals.

On a 2.6 I'd not expect to see any positive manifold pressure till 3000 rpm, and you wont have full boost till 5500+. So the usable power band is very short, unless your "built" engine can also swing to 9000 reliably... In order to do that it will need a LOT of head work. Expect to spend about $5K plus on headwork alone. They are really more suited to stroker engines. Marko R1 and N1 GTR have them on RB30/26's, and I have the HKS equalivent on my RB315. Unless you are intending on making a drag setup and want to retain low mounts there are better options. You might find more useful info in the Rb26 dyno results thread.

Air temps are one of those unfortunate realities of tuning a performance car in a tropical climate. An accurate tune during the day can massively change come night fall. What it comes down to though is that you should aim to keep the tune safe. Which means tuning the car at night when the air is more dense. This will mean that during the day the car will just run a tad rich and on average the ignition will be retarded a degree or so. Keeping the air temp trims where they are is good insurance against detonation, though its been my experience with mildly tuned RB26's that you can drop the 60 degree temp range back to 2 safely, and 1 if you monitor it closely. While still keeping the 70 degree setting at 5 to quickly pull ignition back when it starts to get really hot. Its mostly the stop-go traffic situations that result in the heat soak issues. If your intercooler is getting cool to the touch then you'll also find that once you are out cruising at 80+km/h you will have enough air flow at the plenunm to see the temps start to drop.

Dont go too big on the radiator though. Look at the standard R34 radiators. They are barely 20mm thick, and the secret here is that while they are thin and dont hold a lot of coolant... they do allow the airflow to keep moving fast through the radiator. Next on the list would be the clutch fan. Make sure it actually works. They are supposed to roar and move a shitload of air, and not start to slip until 4000 rpm. An interesting side note... The nismo intercooler ive just purchased has huge air gaps, I presume to keep the air speed up through the cooling system. The Nismo radiator that matches it is 35mm as well, where as most common after market cores like the PWR are 40mm. Cooling panels do work as well. Mostly they reduce the rate that heat soak sets in when you are stuck in traffic. The addition of a greddy air seperation tank is also a good investment. It connects to the air bleed on the head and radiator and draws air from these two high points of the cooling system. A 3rd hose connects to a T piece in the bottom radiator hose to create a suction point connected to the bottom of the air seperation tank. This creates a whirlpool in the seperation tank, drawing air from the engines cooling system. As the system pressurises the air is forced into the overflow bottle. Then when it cools again, coolant is drawn back into the cooling system again. They work a treat! I envy you guys and your 25 degree summers. 38 degrees in the sun up here in summer, and a cool night is lucky to drop below 30 degrees after 8pm at night!

For the money you'd spend on the pump, modifications, hoses, and fittings, you may as well have bought a jun/nitto pump anyway. Engine alarms and kill switches are the go to prevent engine death in the event of oil pressure loss, or accumulators if you want to protect against oil pressure surge as well.

I considered paint, but I also like the look of the z tune's and they use the same front mount which is just visible through the bar mesh. The nismo front bar will do.

Thanks. Here's the latest upgrade. I fitted a Nismo intercooler a couple of days ago. Not quite so stock looking anymore, but Im planning on putting a Nismo front bar on the car too with the black grills in place to conceal the intercooler a little.

Nope its steel, not alloy.

I just found the kit on the high octane site and it says 90mm stroke x 87mm bore to make 3.212cc. Rod ratio is 1.69:1 with a 6" rod. At 8000 RPM that makes your piston speeds peak at 38.8m/s and an accelerate rate from TDC/BDC of 40.2m/s^2. I suspect the reason Nitto abandoned the 3.4 project would be that piston speeds get pretty crazy with the 95mm stroke (43m/s^2 acceleration rate). But more importantly there is less material overlap between the mains and big ends which reduces crankshaft flexing and whipping. The only way to make a 3.4 crank that would be as strong as a 3.2 or even a stock RB30 crank is to increase the diameter of the mains bearings another 5mm or so and then aligh bore the block block to support larger main bearings from something like a BMW or Ford Clevland engine. Oh boy are you taking big dollers then though. If I had to guess, RIPS probably did something like this with their 3.3lt engine.

Subscribed! Pretty dam huge cams for a stroker. Personally i'd be aiming for something more in the step 1+2 range, to keep the usable torque band as wide as possible. Ive not read anything about the Nitto 3.2 kits before either. It would be interesting to know what the bore and stroke are that they are using.

Yes the thought had crossed my mind. It been much better the last few days though. Now we are getting cloud and thunderstorms instead. Its just this time of the year we get a few real scorchers of days. The wet season will start soon and that cools things down a lot, and floods everything of course too.

Considering he's hit a bus which is basically has a chassis built like a battering ram its no wonder the car looks so stuffed. Even if the two vehicles were doing 80km/h, the kinetic energy of a frontal colision is going to make the gtr look very 2nd hand. He may as well have hit a concrete wall at 160. Same kind of effect. The accident happened on a curved road so who is to say the bus wasnt on the wrong side of the road. I frequently drive a near by range and trucks and long vehicles are always crossing double lines torward oncoming traffic around blind corners. The do this so their trailers/rear wheels don't fall off the road at the apex of the corners. Still knowing this happens doesnt stop you from occasionally having near misses, and accidents happen quite frequently. They have lowered the speed limit to 60km/h now to reduce the number of fatality incidents. Im with Terry on this one. A mate was driving along at the speed limit in an import in townsville a few years back. He passed through an intersection that had a green signal, and was t-boned by an ambulance that ran a red signal. When emergency services arrived and the cops they interrigated him and tried to get him to take the blame for causing the accident while he was still in shock, and before offering medical assistance. This would be the brotherhood of public servants watching each others backs, and trying to get the driver of an import to take the blame for doing absolutely nothing wrong. Fortunatly his mother was in the car and was a witness to the fact he wasnt speeding, and did indeed have a green traffic signal.

No worries. Ive already had to fatten up the acceleration enrichment a little to cure the flat spots. Ive left the INJ vs TPS at default for the moment too.

Perserverance with the GTRS's is paying off. That and the now re-scaled RPM scale of the d-jetro that is allowing better tuning resolution for low rpm driving and transition onto boost.. as was done here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347851-power-fc-scale-tweaking-for-more-resolution/ 1200k's on the clock now and what tuning ive done on boost has been a load of fun. So much so that if I am intending on keeping a license i'll have to dyno tune the car's top end. The cooling system is proving to be a little problematic, though that is typical of this time of the year in Cairns. Even the stock engine struggled in heat like we have been getting. At 10am this morning it was 38 degrees outside with a stupidly high humidity. With the aircon blazing away the engine temps tend to run away a little so I have to keep turning off the air-con. Its fine the moment when the car is doing 80km/h+, but that never happens in city traffic where the average is 30-40. Im contemplating trying a different style of fan and viscus fan clutch to get more low speed airflow through the radiator. In preparation for the dyno tuning session that will happen next year I did a little shopping today. A big box with Nismo written on it should hopefully arrive just in time for christmas. That is all.

Around 8.25:1. The rod ratio allow the engine to tolerate a little more ignition than a long rod engine too. The map is a long way off being finished. There is room for quite a few more degrees below 2000 rpm at light load and also ramping onto boost. Once the tune is finished i'll post up a completed copy of the map.

Not that it will do much for you but here it is. 14000 is the pim value for 0.8 bar boost. The scale is calibrated with a 3 bar map sensor. As you can see there is still plenty to do with the tune. The goal at the moment for me is keeping it safe.

Yes the D-jetro has a bunch more settings on the settings 2 page. Check the screen shot, its plenty different to the l-jetro Initial results with the re-scale are excellent. The car drives better and has less afr fluctuations at low speeds. Also the transition onto boost is MUCH smoother now that the afr's arent randomly dipping into the 10-11's. Ive also cranked some ignition into the base map, still keeping the knock down and it has bought the turbo's on another 400rpm sooner. Full boost (0.8 bar) at 4000 rpm with a pair of GTRS's. Thats not bad for a 15 minute road tune. Ive got to do an oil and filter change before I do any more tuning now though. One more question for Trent.... Do you know the minimum stable injector pulse width for delphi/sard 700cc injectors? It seems my idle afr's get flakey if I drop the pulse width below 1.8ms. It will randomly go lean. Above 1.85ms though its stable, though idle afr's get pretty rich. Closed loop currently turned off of course... turning it on pulls it back ok though.

I believe your confusing Accelerate Injector with INJ vs TPS. Accelerate injector tunes the equalivent of a throttle pump with RPM, Amount and decay rate for enrichment.

Just about to rescale my map now, and then go for a test drive. Regarding the settings 2 INJ vs TPS, im guessing adding a correction here works similar to a RPM vs TPS fuel map might? Whatever the current load/rpm point is, a correction factor is applied to that load point based on TPS. And with the default values being 1.000, it means entirely by map. And then I might need to add more fuel progressively from low to the high end of the TPS scale, in order to prop up the AFR's. I thought I had the tune pretty much dead on right for low end drivability until I drove up a nearby range yesterday. The extra load the engine was under had the afr's dipping into the 16's at 2000 rpm when cruising at 60km/h in 4th. That load wasn't being reflected in the MAP sensor as the engine produces really good vacuum and has good low end torque. While thats still safe, the same cruise speed and gear on level ground was around 14.7:1. (at this stage im more concerned with completing a run in, so im not too woried about aiming for maximum fuel economy.) I'll take you up on that offer too Trent, and will email you a copy of the map once ive finished my latest bunch of changes and re-tune. Cheers, Ian

Thanks guys, thats the sort of thing I was hoping to hear. Im guessing this is the sort of thing you mean Trent? 800 1200 1500 - ) 1750 - ) 2000 - ) Drivability/response area. 2250 - ) 2500 - ) 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 - ) 5250 - ) Peak torque area... cams are standard R34 vspec 2. 5500 - ) 6000 6500 7000 7500 8000 8500 Thanks for the tip re TPS/Inj. Should be interesting to see the results I can get with it. Ive noticed the engine feels far more responsive when cold, and when it warms up it goes a little doey. I was guessing its the cold start enrichment topping up the transient enrichment a little. At the moment i've not delved too deeply into the rest of the ecu's settings. Cheers, Ian