GTRNUR

Care to elaborate on exactly how this "might" be possible? Larger pistons dont solve the problem of the block being thin in the bore. Fact is, you can not bore past 88mm with an RB block (all of them) before the cylinder thicknesses get below 2mm. You can use that bore size if you wanted to grout fill the block as well, but thats not going to work for a street engine, as you would need to do a complete fill to get the strength in the block where it's needed (at the top 1-2" of the cylinder). Even then, an 88m bore is only 3.1lt anyway with an 85mm stroke. Stroker crankshafts like the one that Spool are developing, combined with a sleeved block (to allow an 88mm bore) are about the only way you can get anywhere near 3.4lt. 3.2lt is easier to achieve. A 6" chevy rod with 1.88" big ends on an offset ground 87mm RB30 crank, with an 87.5mm piston will get you a 3.15lt. 87.5 is about as large as I've "read about" people running without sleeving (not my recommendation though). And you'd want to be dam sure about your tune, so you dont go splitting the thin bores. Having an engine that can only be tuned to 7/10ths is pretty pointless in my opinion.

Your best bet is to see if you can borrow a VL turbo auto bell housing from a tranny shop somewhere as they are the same pattern. Trace it, and measure up the hole centers on diagonals... then draw one up yourself... thats unless someone else is going to be fourthcoming with an autocad drawing. From my experiences though most of the guys with this stuff on file don't share it.

Two very different, and opposite opinions. And I think it comes down entirely to driver style. I'll bet that Bernie treats his car firmly but nicely, and respects the fact that it is a powerful beast capable of chewing up and swallowing parts of its driveline with ease. I'll also bet that "two_evial" drives like a mate of mine used to punish his GTR, that was till he broke it. Sideways all the time, regularly at 8000 rpm, and doing the big launches at that RPM as well. Nothing is indestructable. You can break anything if you treat it poorly enough.

If you can get another look at it, it would be helpful. Look for the VCT solenoid next to the intake cam gear above the coolant out hose. If its there, (or removed and plugged), then you have a RB25DET head. Otherwise its a RB25DE head (non vct), which is a direct bolt on to the RB30 block. As well as they use a similar valvetrain to an RB20, so they can be upgraded with RB26 parts. IE, springs, cams and lifters. Rb25DET's use a hydraulic lifter so the 26 liftes arent compatible for that head.

Could it not also mean it was a RB25DE head and the valve springs were changed to RB26 items? I think I read that was done somewhere in one of the hybrid build documents ive seen floating around. Dont ask me though.. i'll leave head building for my machine shop.

The pump on the bug is 3 x 1.75" scavenge stages and 1 x 1.25 pressure stage. I use a -16 from the sump and 2 x -12's from each rocker cover. Having re thought it... even mounting an oil pump where the power steering pump is located would be tricky. Available room is at a premium and clearing the turbo intakes, plumbing etc would be a challenge.

Why are you wanting 6 stages Mike? 4 is enough for 1 x head and 2 in the sump, plus the pressure stage. As a general rule you dont want to scavenge the super hot foamy oil from the turbo's either as its not good for the scavenge stage. Instead letting that oil return to the sump via conventional means so it can cool down and release air bubbles. I'd like to have a try mounting one where the power steering pump is, drive it off the exhaust cam gear, and go with an electric power steering pump.

There are temp sensors located in the drivers side of the intercooler core, and the dump pipe just before the front pipe flange. They only provide signals for the MFD and dont link into the ecu.

The map sensor for your gauge is located on the drivers side of the engine bay near your brake booster. There is a hose that goes from that to the back of the plenum near the firewall. The rubber tends to go hard, split/crack or just break off the brass pipe fitting that is on the back of the plenum. You can easily reach it to check the hose. Give the hose a wiggle and squeese where it attached to the plenum. If its hard and cracked it will probably break off completely. Replacing the hose and doing a complete pressure test to identify other failing hoses is your best bet.

I dont think the N1's are thicker! Sleeve an N1 block with a 92mm sleeve and you still break through into the water galleries. From what I understand the N1 blocks are cast from steel with a higher nickel content. Its the improved alloy that makes them a stronger block. Thats it. Nickel has a higher atomic weight so an N1 block is heavier than a stock 05u block, but the thickness is the same. (not counting those rare early R32 blocks of couse that ive only heard about but never seen). Partially grout filling a stock 05u block and then torque plate boring it to 86.5 would be my recommendation for a strong 2.6lt block. Its torque twisting the block that causes the cracking. Grout filling goes a long way to eliminating that problem. I totally agree with TO4GTR about the use of old metal too. Age is 1/2 the reason why the old RB30 blocks hold up to power so well when used in hybrid engines. Consider the amount of KMs on the average RB30 thats been run in mums old R31 station wagon, or some old rusty patrol. Hundreds and hundreds of heat cycles to stress relieve the metal, as well as running with generally mineral based oils. Light pounding of moderate power level workhardening the surface and slowly carburizing the steel over time. Not to mention the factory nitriding of the cranks. Old steel sure is the best.

For power yes I agree with you, but for a street car that might be driven in traffic I dont. Have you ever experienced driving a big duration cammed car in stop-go traffic and noticed the effect the piss poor low speed vacuum has on the effectiveness of your brake and clutch boosters? Not to mention how it effects the ability to get a good low speed tune, especialy if its a map based load sensing ecu. But even MAF ecu's dont deal too well with turbulance at low speeds caused by big cammed engines. The 280 degree cams push the peak torque up to around 7000 rpm, so driving on a track around the torque band from 6-9000 rpm with turbo's that run out of flow on an RB30 at around 7000. Its just not going to go all that well. You'd be much better off swapping the big duration cams for some 260's or a 260/272 pair. By all means max out the lift to the limit (the 3lt will love that), but maintaining low end drivability is something I consider a must for a car that sees regular street duties. Just my 2c..

Dam you've gotta be quick..! 2nd dibs here.

What exactly is the power figure you have in mind for the engine? Because your engines cylinder head says 900+hp and your turbo's say 500... ie. your engine setup is quite miss-matched. You would be better off with a set of 260 cams and 10mm lift. Take advantage of the fact you dont have to rev the RB30 because it makes usable torque low in the rev range.

The speed sensors are a typical reluctor type sensor. Your standard cosworth sensors will be of the same type and should produce a compatible signal. Its best to keep your wheel sensors and in particular the wheel speed sensor trigger wheel standard so as to not interfere with the operation of your ABS system. The GTR awd system is designed to be rear wheel drive most of the time. The most basic operation of the transfer case occurs when the Attessa ecu detects a speed difference between the front and rear axels. Depending on how much speed difference there is, and the position of the throttle and engine speed the ecu deliveres an appropriate amount of front torque. During cornering the G sensors come into play, as well as the steering angle sensor. Assuming a traction loss is detected while cornering, the amount of front torque delivered will be less than it would be in a straight line so that the AWD system does not cause the car to understeer(as much). The R33 and R34 transfer cases have preload on the clutch packs and different attessa programming in the ecu which causes faster reacting front torque, which can lead to making the car understeer more. This also means you can not completely disengage the front drive, as there will always be a tiny amount of front torque. So you can not do burnouts without burning your attessa clutch packs. Starting with an R32 transfer case would eliminate this issue, as the clutch packs completely disengage in 2wd mode. Its my belief that this, and the different attessa programming is a key factor in why the R32 gtr is such an awesome "drivers" car compared to the later models that are designed with more understeer in mind for safety reasons. Good luck with the project.

Kudo's for having such a great project! My recommendation would be to source an R32 gtr chassis loom from a wrecked car, along with the standard G sensors and Attessa ecu that are located under the center console. Then get a wiring diagram and a good automotive electrician. Since you have speed sensors on all the wheels already, you would need to work out how to adapt those sensors into the GTR loom. The ecu then uses feedback from the throttle position, RPM tacho signal from the ecu, and steering angle. If you can get an attessa system to work in standard form your 1/2 way there. Then you can get a torque split controller to allow you to fiddle with the torque split depending on the type of driving your doing at the time.

I just had a thought... Is your turbo a twin scroll housing? If it is you could use one of the quick spool valves that are becoming popular with the supra guys. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthrea...ick-Spool-Valve And the link where there are some pictures of the valve... http://www.spracingonline.com/store/Sound_...pool_Valve/3643

Standing mile sounds like it would be a great fun event alright. As was already said... R34 getrag and diff is the go. It will hold up to 800hp in a high speed sort of environment so long as your not doing big launches with semi slicks. Meanwhile... on the autobarns in germany.

Skylinesky has a PPG equipped R34 getrag for sale as he has just bought a holinger box instead. If you want something that shifts beautifully then you cant go past this box, and combined with R32/33 diff ratios and a big power engine it would be a hoot to drive. The other option is a OS gear set upgrade for your R33 tranny, but frankly dog engagement gear sets are a bitch to drive and arent remotely streetable.

Those dam evo's do have a big advantage over the heavier GTR's in the tight corners. Particularly in braking and acceleration, and dam understeer. Something to consider though is that if the power delivery of your current setup works and feels nice and smooth, and more importantly it is controlable adding more response at the engine may unsettle the car and make it very taily in the corners. Too much response may force you to drive on and off the throttle to control power oversteer. GTS4 diff gears might be worth considering to prevent rpm's dropping too far in the corners and to give you better acceleration out of the corners. Im guessing your racing at the same track all the time, and that there are corners too fast for 1st gear, yet too slow for 2nd? I have the same issue with the sprints I race in... and the evo's dominate there as well. Another option worth considering is a Vcam setup, to prop up low end torque without making boost response too savage. Sorry that this isnt even close to the answer you were asking for, but since you mentioend the evo's I think this may be relivent.

Probably not. The best 12V nos bottle heaters are only 250-300w. Assuming 100% efficency @ 250-300 watt that is 20-25 amps of current. The 110v heaters are 720watt each, so i'd need 2 -3 heaters to achieve the same level of heating, which equals 60-75 amps of current draw when the heaters are on. Add that to having to run the rest of the car's ignition, efi etc and it would be overloading the electrical system pretty badly. I think a well insulated tank will do the trick for my application once its up to temp.

Sounds like mains powered heaters are the go, and I can then wrap the tank in a heat insulation beanie to hold in the heat. I might be able to wire 2 of them in series as my tank is pretty tall, and then wire them direct to 240 instead of using a step down transformer too. Thanks for the info everyone.

Sounds similar to a nos bottle heater then. Ive heard you have to be careful with some of these heaters too, as they can get that hot they tend to burn things they are touching. (though the guy that told me that also sniffs paint, so i'll take that advice carefully). I like the sound of a blanket heater compared to an internal element heater too. Found the Moroso heater... cheap too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-720w-OI...eQ5fCarQ5fParts I think Ive just worked out why heaters are all 110v. You can only get 300w 12v heaters, so i'd need 4 of them to make a worthwhile heater system. Thats 4 x about 25a current, which would cripple the electrical system pretty well if the heaters were run for the first few minutes of the car running. So that rules out car powered based heating.

Sorry.. its not a nissan. It never had a water to air oil cooler originally.

One of my cars that has a dry sump oil system takes for ever to get the oil temps up to the engine operating temperature. The oil system holds about 12+litres of oil as the tank is mounted at the opposite end of the car than the engine, and it uses a -16AN size supply line and a -12 return. Ive read that nascar use heaters mounted inside their tanks to bring the oil temps up faster when they are pitting the car, but based on what ive researched the heater elements are setup to operate off mains power (110V in the US). I was thinking about nitrous bottle heaters... and having had no experience with these types of heaters before I figured I'd ask, how hot do these things get, and would it be viable to use a bottle heater to bring the oil temps up faster?

Being a BB turbo i'd be inclined to use the same size restrictor as the restrictor in the banjo bolt that bolts into the block with the standard oil line setup. The standard bolt has an M marked on the end of it. Service manual page EN181.