GTRNUR

Being a BB turbo i'd be inclined to use the same size restrictor as the restrictor in the banjo bolt that bolts into the block with the standard oil line setup. The standard bolt has an M marked on the end of it. Service manual page EN181.

+1 for Stallone's 1950 Mercury. Also, the white 1970 dodge challanger from vanishing point/death proof and the audio slave "show me how to live" video. http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=5v8NpGbzb2w&...feature=related What about some of the cars from American Graphiti? The father of all car films... Or Christine... the 1955 chev

+1 Not to mention the semi slicks with the rubber that looks like its been boiled!

Correct! And most reputable businesses have professional indemnity insurance anyway that covers them for this kind of accidental damage anyway. Definatly let your head cool down before you talk to the guy again or make any deals as such. If you do think it will end up a small claims issue, at the most inform him that it is your intention to have the matter resolved that way, but you need to give him the opportunity to resolve the matter with you directly.

Blocks can vary in deck height from one end to the other as much as 0.003". As for factory deck heights I cant say ive ever really bothered checking. Usually I only check the first cylinder, then install that rod and piston in the last cylinder and measure for the difference so the block can be leveled when decked. As for deck height, there is no issue with going positive deck if you had to, or wanted to, in order to max out your CR. Just aim for a minimum of 0.037" piston - head clearance.

Just thought I'd clarify the issue with the rapid cooling a little more... It probably wasnt the carby cleaner that didn the plugs in. Remember the story of the marble heated with a cigarette lighter and then dropped in a cup of water... well its the temperature differential and sudden change from hot to cold that causes the cracks to occur in the material. Barely 200 degrees is enough to do damage. This is because the outer material cools at a faster, and un-even rate to the inside. Then consider a plug heated till its glowing red with a 2000+ degree flame. Glowing means the material was above 1200 degrees. Just cooling in air would be fast enough to cause thermal shock to the materials, as the temperature differential between 25 degrees (air temp) and 1200+ is great! I'd be asking the shop to source you a replacement block and to pay for the machining and re-assembly at the very least. A sleeved block can potentially behave a little differently to a non-sleeved block, as the sleeve material is slower to transfer heat to the block. The only real difference is that you have to warm up more carefully and only punish the engine ones its at operating temperature. Though I think this behavior is more of an issue with big cylinder bore engines (4"+ bores) than a tiny 87mm piston.

Ive got a set of nitto gears that have only seen dyno time if your interested. Fitting requires milling the pump housing and surfacing the back of the pump to a 0 thou clearance fit with the steel backing plate. A competitent machine shop can do this work easily.

1 out of 6 and you could put it down to bad luck, or a manufacturer fauly (if they were new), but because they were 2nd hand already... then you would put it down to posibly one having been dropped. But 5/6! Thats definatly an indicator that something WRONG was done to all of the plugs, and you were just lucky it didnt happen on all 6 cylinders. And theres your answer right there. It would be interesting to see whats left of the plugs too. Mainly to see if the center electrode insulators just fell apart completely. This reminds me of something I did as a kid when collecting marbles was all the rage. You could heat up a mable with a cigarette lighter, and then drop it in a glass of water. This would induce thermal shock cracks all through the insideof the mable and give it a fractured/crystal sort of internal appearance(which was cool when your 5 yrs old). This also made them very fragile as it was only the outer skin of the mable that was barely holding the glass marble together.... This is what your mechanic has done to your plugs. Stress cracks all through the ceramics, so they will have fallen apart very quickly the moment they were exposed to vibration and heat. The cracks also are an electrical weakness in the insulator as well, providing a pathway for the plug to break down. Frankly its a miricale that the plugs didnt let go on all 6 cylinders.

Did I read that right back on the previous page where you said 89mm bore? Based on my experiences with machining and sleeving RB26 blocks, the outer diameter of the cylinders tend to break away when bored to 92mm which is the necessary bore size for the OD of the sleeves. Admittedly I only have a little RB30 experience but does the RB30 block have thicker cylinders, say around 94-95mm? If so they would support a dry sleeve very easily with an 89mm bore. Or have you done some very radical work in order to allow the block to support a wet type sleeve? I investigated doing this as well with the 26 block, and Darton told me the block wouldnt support a wet sleeve and retain good strength (I presume unless extra measures were taken). I guess with enough grout filling the block would become sturdy enough anyway. I had thoughts of using a stepped sleeve, that is say 95mm OD at the top, and then 92mm from 1/2 way down the sleeve to the bottom. The theory being that this would give the cylinder strength where its needed, close to the combustion chamber end of the cylinder. While keeping the block intact enough to not compromise the bottom end rigidity. Then with a 1/2 grout fill it would still be pretty much bullet proof block, and support an 89mm bore. Sorry this is off topic, but you seem to have solved your turbo choice situation... and you have a very interesting engine that provokes me to think of ways to add more capacity to the RB. Edit... 89 x 87.7 = 3275cc!

My thoughts on the future possabilities for selling these bottoms ends would be that I would setup all the blocks the same, using the same sleeve configuration, same 20mm spacer plate, head sealing system etc. Then customers could choose to run whatever sized crank in the block they wanted, and set a 0 deck height by choosing pistons with the appropriate pin height. You can run 2.9lt to 3.2lt in the same block just by choosing different internal combinations. There are a lot of off the shelf pistons that will suit the applicaiton too, so you don't have to go custom (expensive). I have a version 3 engine in the works at the moment that aims to be a much simpler and cheaper engine to put together. Ive gone with 10mm flanged sleeves that are keyed to fit each other, so it will support the gasket better around each cylinder and more importantly have much more room for a stainless steel o-ring to be fitted to the top of the sleeve. The goal is to make the engines cheaper to assemble yet just as strong and reliable. You cant beat a stock head gasket for sealing and they are cheap as chips. Ive changed the spacer plate to aluminium as it is vastly cheaper to machine than mild steel. Cutting the mild steel spacer plates with a CNC waterjet cutter has cost $1100 each so far. Switching to aluminium makes this much cheaper as the softer material waterjet cuts a lot faster. Also, some machine shops are not able to surface mild steel, and can only surface cast iron (engine blocks) and aluminium as the material is softer. Aluminium opens up more posabilities to allow component fabrication to be cheaper. Im pretty sure that putting 2560-5's on a 3.1lt would definatly have them choking for flow around the 6000 rpm mark. There have been quite a few people that have used them on RB30DETT's, and the general concensis is that they are too small for the volume of gas the 30 pumps. Racepace reportadly use the same turbo's on their 2.9lt engine (search for RPMGTR, RB29 wow thread).. As many suspect, that car has a lot more going on under the bonnet than just a few extra CC's to achieve the results they do with it. Amaters like me cant hope to achieve anything like the results of Racepace do, due to their years of tuning experience. I'll just settle for the caveman approach to tuning and say BIGGER is better, and then by a ported cylinder head from Red R Racing.

I live in Cairns and get a hot day or two. Though at the moment when we are actually getting to see a bit of sun the temps on the MFD on my R34 rarely get above 80 degrees. Mostly when crusing at 80km/h or above it sits on 76-78. I have a PWR radiator now but that was only put in for a little better cooling for track days, and the stock one was looking a little tatty. It still worked plenty well enough to maintain simular temps in this climate though. Even on a 38 degree track day at townsville my water temps never exceeded 100 degrees, and considering that is on a lowish speed sprint track thats pretty impressive. My suggestions. Thouraghly bleed the air from the cooling system PROPERLY. Start with a cold engine thats not running... Pull the bottom radiator hose and get rid of all the tap water for a start. Then fill it up with distilled water. Do the same with your overflow bottle. Tap water is full of crap that causes corrosion, which leads to blockages, failed pumps and thermostats. Then as above (Luke 32 says) loosen the 10mm bolt on the front of the head on the drivers side that has the copper washer under it. Start the car and remove the bolt from the head completely. Water will begin to flow out the bolt hole. Keep topping up the radiator til the water flow is steady and not sputtering out air. Let the water level in the radiator go down enough to allow you to tip in some coolent concentrate and then put the bolt back in. Tip in a bottle of redline water wetter coolant concentrate (Its what I use) and top up with distilled water. If this procedure doesnt drasticly help your engine temps, you can go to a paranoia level with bleeding the trapped air... This is worth doing anyway if you live in Darwin as your summers are bloody hot! Get a coke bottle and cut the bottom out of it and test fit it to see if it screws and seals nicely into your radiator cap hole. Find a steep hill to drive up and park nose up, so the radiator is above the engine (has to be a steep hill). Screw the cut bottle into the radiator cap hole and fill the bottle 1/4 up with distilled water and re-start the car. Run the engine at idle and the occasional rev until bubbles no longer bubble out of the radiator. Once done, replace the radiator cap and check your overflow level is ok. Only when you have done this can you be 100% sure your cooling system is free of air locks. If you have done this precicely and it still over heats, only then should you move onto having the radiator pressure-back washed, replacing thermostats and water pumps etc. Looking in the top of the radiator hole you should be able to see coolant movement as well. If you do chances are there is nothing wrong with the water pump. Many R32's on the road would still be using their factory fitted pumps, so your R34 would have had to have been pumping sea water for it to fail at only 100,000k's. If you want to invest in a radiator, get a 40mm PWR one. ARC and trust radiators also appear for sale randomly on the forum, and i'd jump at one of those too as the quality is excellent. Yes there are $300 radiators, but frankly if thats your budget you cant afford to own the R34. Treat it with some respect and use only good quality parts on it. If your at 100,000km you should have replaced the radiator hoses as well. Good luck!

Thanks guys... Especially for putting up with this on a Skyline site! As for the specs... The 1968 chassis is radically customised, 200mm widened so it has the same footprint as a Porsche 944/968. I've used parts from a 1994 968 Porsche to do the rack and pinion steering conversion, a-arm/mcpherson strut front end, and the IRS rear end. Brakes are 986 Porsche/brembo 4 spots all round. Wheels are from a 996 and are 18x8 and 18x10's. Bridgestone RE55 rubber. Coilovers are Tein super streets... yet to sort out the spring rates and valving. The gearbox is from a 911 turbo, axels and CV's are 968. Clutch is a custom twin plate that will support around 500hp. The core body is a 1966 shell and is mostly stock except for the single piece glass and power windows. All the rear windows are plastic for weight reduction. Door linings, dash and the floor of the car are all made from carbon fibre sheet material. Guards are custom made fiberglass. The firewall is a 2 piece bolt in aluminium job, and is extended forward to allow a lot more driveline/engine to fit in the back end. The entire back end of the car is removable and unbolts to allow full access to the rear suspension and engine. Air intakes for the turbo's are ducted from the rear quater windows. The engine is entirely custom and is based on a VW water cooled die cast aluminium block, but is converted to air cooled. It is bored and stroked to 2.5lt. Induction side there is a pair of 8cm trust T517z's and PWR 600hp water to air intercooler. Oil system uses an external RPM 4 stage dry pump. The oil tank, coolers and battery are mounted at the front of the car for better weight distribution. The engine runs a distributorless 4 coil MSD igniton with a AEM CDI. Fuel injection with a Wolf V500. Air cooling is based on a 911 turbo setup with a carbon fibre cooling shroud. And a video of the engine running. If you have good speakers crank them up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_P2mtkncNM And 2 more pics. Cheers, Ian

Sorry I haven't made any more significant progress with the engine lately, although I can report that the engine is still surviving on the test rig with the periodic testing that I've been doing. I have been periodically heat cycling the engine while pressurising the cooling system to try and force another coolant leak. The spacer plate and head gasket are continuing to hold their seal so far. So my confidence is high. I haven't been able to move forward with instaling in my car because Ive been left carrying a bag of debt thanks to one of my clients having had had their accounts frozen and receivers and managers are appointed. So money I had put aside to get the engine into the car has had to go to paying my outstanding accounts. These are the joys of running your own business. I hope to be back on track again in a couple of months.

Thought I'd share this.... 3 years in the making and today was its first "successful" road test! (I had a few unsuccessful ones due to fuel system issues). So here it is! Australia's first legally engineered and registered twin turbo'd VW. The goal is to be quick in the sprint events that I race in. The car hopefully weighs in around the 800kg mark, 1/2 the weight of the R34 which realy struggles around the gocart track I race at. Now just suspension changes to do and tuning tuning tuning... Cheers, Ian

Turbo's are sold... Map sensor still available.

RB26 was designed to meet the class restrictions of the day for Group A, otherwise they would have been a larger engine for sure. Thus the VR38 in the new GTR. Based on your available budget if you were to blow it all on the car you could afford to put together something pretty reasonable but it wont be full of carbon fibre. Call it $50-55k for the base car, 20 for the engine and driveline and the rest on suspension modifications to conquer the understeer and of course tyres. 90-100K easy. Keep in mind a set of semi slicks are pretty easy to burn through. Ive shreadded a set of new RT615's to 50% life after doing just one sprint event in my R34. 6 events a year, $2400/set of tyres... you do the math. You can easily blow $50k on an engine if you were to head down the osgiken 3+lt stroker path. The RB30 bottom end would be the more affordable option, as per the highoctane r34 gtr. There is no way you could posibly keep a radically lightened car legal on the street. Carbon doors provide no side impact protection and definatly wouldnt be legal. Lexan glass is only legal for windows behind the B-pillar. To be honest a true thoroughbred race car is an utter bitch to drive on the street anyway and no car that is good on the street will ever be exceptional on the track. Race cars are noisy and harsh. About your weight question, the standard R34 GTR driveline will survive 600awkw of punishment if it is a linear applied load (not shock loading) for a limited period of time. 450awkw, not a problem with reliability provided everything is in good condition and well maintained. They are a lot more over-engineered than an STI.

Charlie still has his apexi 2.9 kit for sale. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ra...B2-t285391.html There is also some company out there that is de-stroking rb30 cranks to 83mm, running standard rb26 rods and custom pistons to make an RB29. User 'Mark99' on this forum was the machinist that developed the stroker kit from memory. I cant remember what the company was called though.

What you left out there is that the Sr runs a short 5.35" rod and the 4g63 uses a 5.9" rod. The 1mm differences in bore and stroke alone can not take full responsibility for the different charactoristics of the engine. No single charactoristic is responsible for how an engine behaves. The combination of cam configuration with geometry and CR will also make a huge difference. Anyone care to track down the camshaft data on a SR20det and 4g63? The 'boxer" principal? In the end that has little bearing on anything. The main benefit of a flat engine is that it is shorter, same as a V engine. It also can allow an engine to run a much larger bore as the cylinder spacing is larger for the layout. Without meaning to over simplify... in each cylinder the pistons and rods still go up and down from the center line of the crank, the same as an inline engine. An interesting thing to note though is that the EJ engines tend to have massive rod journes in comparison to RB engines... I dont know about 4g63's though. This may be in part be an effort to reduce crank flex as the all alloy engine of an EJ in standard form runs pretty tight bearing clearences from what I can remember. (sorry... getting off topic here).

Thats where confusing horsepower combined with gear ratios producing a more usable torque to the rear axel can be confused with torque at the engine. Simular to the mines 34's that run a getrag with tiny diff gears yet rev to 9K+. They are so responsive and quick because of the driveline makes better use of the high RPM horsepower (torque at high revs). In a street car having monster amounts of torque from low in the RPM range is what makes the car more enjoyable to drive. As Paul suggested, a torque comparison between a RB20 and 4g63 (in naturally aspirated form) for all given RPM points would be a good comparison. Comparing naturally aspirated and non-vct engines limits the comparison to just geometry. 4g63 sohc - 85mm bore x 88m stroke. 5.9" rod and 1.7:1 rod ratio, 8.5:1cr - 157nm @ 4750rpm rb20e sohc - 78mm bore x 69.7 stroke, 122mm rod and 1.75 rod ratio, 9.5:1 - 171 nm @ 4400 rpm Interesting... nearly the same bar the compression which has me thinking the 4g63 is the better engine geometry wise.

Was the WRX a 2.5 or 2lt block? I think just limiting the comparison between the RB25 and the WRX would be a good idea. Then compare the full weight of one car to the other. Also take a not of at what RPM the engine achieves full boost. Ive only driven a standard my99 wrx and from what I can remember it was making boost from very low in the rev range but fell over in top end around 6000 rpm, where as a skyline tends to keep going well up to 7000 with a standard turbo setup before you notice a drop off in torque. In terms of what kind of engine delivers more torque its been my experience that more stroke delivers more immediate power but to be honest ive never driven an engine that has been ONLY stroked. All stroked engines ive driven have also had a massive over-bore as well. Though it is logical to say that for two engines with indentical capacity (say an RB25 and an EJ25), the engine with the larger throw on the crank will on average deliver more immediate torque as each combustion event is pushing on the rod journel further out from the center line of the crank providing more leverage. So what I am saying is that capacity per cylinder has not as much to do with torque for any given RPM, it is more how that power generated in each cylinder is converted into a rotational force. This is where you start getting into rod ratios which has got to be one of the most hotly debated topics when someone begins to whisper RB30 vs RB26/RB28. Choice of a rod ratio all comes down to what will actually be possible to achieve in your given engine design and how you want the engine to deliver the power it makes. There are pros and cons to low and high rod ratios. On occasion you'll see people say one rod ratio is better than another, or more "ideal". There are engines out there with rod ratios ranging from 1.4 to 2.4. How they respond and deliver torque is vastly different. The same could be said for an engine that has standard cams vs another engine with 290 degree cams with 12mm lift. You might find these two links interesting to read. The first link is about the pros and cons of different rod ratos. The 2nd is a database of different engines and what their internal dimensions are. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/stroke-rod-ratio-32680.html http://www.odengines.com/Stan%20Weiss'...tio%20Table.mht Ford, chevy and dare I say it VW engine owners have been playing with rod ratio changes for years. Swapping to larger stroke cranks, or just running longer and shorter rods with pistons that have higher or lower compression heights. RB engine owners have not been able to experiment with this as much as the RB component options to make changes like this are limited to only an RB30 block setup, or a 77.7mm crank. It doesnt leave a lot of room for experimentation. Where the SBC and vw engines are probably the two most modified and customisable types of engines on the planet. One thing above all though that is pretty much accepted as being true is that more displacement if you can get it, is always worth a little sacrifice in the rod ratio department. The v8 guys are right in saying there is no replacement for displacement. A turbo will never be able to deliver the low end punch that pure displacemet can. Hope I haven't ranted on too much here. I was not trying to make any kind of point... just sharing some thoughts.

Will you be running another group buy any time in the near future for these wheels, and can I get a set in porsche 5x130 bolt pattern with different offsets, or is your pricing only for Nissan stud paterns?

I didnt seen anyone else ask the question so I will... Did you not use the factor oil supply banjo bolt in the block that is marked with an M? The factory bolt has a restrictor built into it. I think the restrictor in the banjo bolt is about 1.5mm, to restrict flow for both turbo's. See attached pic. It would be hard work getting access to that bolt with the engine in the car already... so like you are thinking, making up restrictors for each turbo is your next best bet. I too have heard time and time again that the GT28 cores have internal restrictors, but if they really do ive yet to actually see them actually do their job and restrict oil flow even a little. I'd put money on the fact that if you were to connect a -3 fitting to any GT28 turbo and blow 100PSI of oil pressure to the feed line it will still leak into the intake and exhaust housings. If you went down the aftermarket/custom hose path www.atpturbo.com sell a -3 restrictor with a 0.035" restrictor hole for the GT28 cores, that bolts straight into the turbo. In the past just made my own restrictors by filling a brass -3 fitting with solder and then just drilling it. Since the solder melts at 350 degrees there is no chance it will come loose and end up in the turbo.

Nobody will ever answer that question. Usually because all the recepits have been thrown out. This way your not tempted to add them up and weigh the dollars spent with the fun you get from the car. And of course no reciepts means it technicaly cost nothing!

Not corny at all Matt. While you can get a lot of enjoyment from building and driving a car, sharing the progress of a project build with others who are like minded is equally as fun and rewarding. Believe me, we are all hanging out to see some video of the car too. There isn't any youtube vids youve posted up here that ive missed already is there? Cheers, Ian.

Finally, a good quality HD video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFQG4KibJLw