GTRNUR

Oil returns were drilled and are a little larger in this build. I didnt bother with an external return. The restrictor combined with the 8lt oil capacity should be more than adequite for a street engine.

Sealing in combustion gases properly does not require a large surface area, or "more meat" as you put it. In fact the opposite is true. The less surface area there is, the better the seal will actually be for any given clamping pressure. Imagine a motor that has 1 ton of clamping pressure holding the cylinder head down and compressing the head gasket. This force is applied by the head studs in order to compress the head gasket so it seals combusion chambers, and isolates water and oil galleries. Whether that be an open or closed deck engine, that 1 ton of pressure is spread evenly across the sealing surface of the top of the block. So, if the engine is a closed deck type block there is more surface area than there is with an open deck block. So for the same head clamping pressure, the open deck engine will actually seal better. But really its not that simple. The sleeves are not machined to be the same height as the spacer plate like you might think. When machining I take into consideration material expansion due to temperature change for the sleeves, spacer plate, and the aluminium gasket that seals the spacer plate to the block. As the motor heats up, the pressures across the head gasket actually changes in an open deck engine, but the head gasket has to seal across the engines entire operating temperature range. Hope that makes sense.

Best explained with a picture... The sleeves have coolant all the way around them at the top (where the most combustion heat occurs, 1" from the top of the cylinder). In theory the open deck sleeved block will run cooler than a normal closed deck, as the hottest part of the cylinder is exposed to coolant. Closed deck blocks have less cooling surface area around the top of the cylinder and as a result conduct more heat to the block.

Thanks Matt. Planning the next engine upgrade already? It was in part Racepace Ben's work on his version of an RB29 open deck engine that inspired me to undertake this project. Any kit I might end up hoping to sell is still at least 12 month off off. I need to prove my design and find the money to do a small production run. As you might imagine, funding this little project hasnt exactly been cheap.

Thanks Mr Baron. Yes we should talk if you really are keen. The RB28 will be being assembled in about 6 months though. At the moment its just a collection of parts on the bench and I havent made a block for it yet. I've got to build an airconditioned assembly room in my new workshop before I build any more engines. What happened to that cranky modified R34 N1 NUR engine you had built for your car? Ive seen the build pics of the headbeing ported and modified in japan at prime garage from memory.. on the here forum somewhere. Why arent you driving the car already!

Doing the workshop cleanup...and found: 2 x brand spankin' new GT2554R 260hp ball bearing turbo's. They are the entry level BB turbo in the T25 frame made by garrett. Specs are: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...4R_471171_3.htm Purchased for my twin turbo vw project, but I changed to using GTR style T25's and went with T517z's instead. Cost $1200 each, I'll let them go for $500 each, ono. 1 x Vipec/GM 3 bar map sensor (new) $50 ono Parts are located in Cairns, QLD. Will freight anywhere at buyers expense. Call me on 0434 147 478 or PM me for more details. Pics available upon request. (I will take them tomorrow). Cheers, Ian.

Definatly not detonation in my opinion. The picture that shows the damage to the head clearly shows impact marks. The three marks to the left are quite deep, and probably wont clean up when the head is shaved ( not that that is important as they are in the squish pad area anyway). The mark in the middle is also very deep, and shaped oddly. Such a shape would require an existing flaw to exist in the casting of the head for detonation to produce that shape... It just cant happen. Last of all, is the big dents to the right ad the edge of the squish pad. The foreign material impact has clearly distorted the aluminium. Detonation just wouldnt do this. You may never find the cause of the damage. I'd be looking at your turbo compressor wheel, and inside your intercooler next. You might find a trace of something. Really though, I suspect the foreign body entered the engine as one stray particly, and then was smashed up into smaller particles before it left the engine via the exhaust ports. Depending on the size of the particle it could have contributed to the rod bearing failure. Having oil diluted with petrol (and its reduced lubricating capability) combined with the additional rod bearing pressure created by the foreign particles resulted in the failure.

Your part number should actually be 14411-06U00. Based on this turbo chart they are R32 Nismo turbo's, not modern, bush bearing turbo. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm Great username too! Im sure anyone with a GTR could relate to that.

The benefit of pulling the spark plugs is that the rod bearings arent subjected to cylinder compresion forces, without there being oil on the bearings. Your cylinder bores should also all have a tiny squirt of oil in them from when your builder built the engine. (believe it or not some builders assemble engines dry!)... I have had success priming the pump by using an air compressor too. Its a bit involved, but does work a treat. So... after you have removed your spark plugs and unplugged the CAS sensor you can do the following. 1. Unscrew your pressure sender and put in a 1/8th BSP barbed fitting, with a piece of clear plastic hose attached to it. (so you can watch for oil). 2. Block or link your cam cover vents, including the hose that normally goes to the intake. (one way valve). 3. Connect an air blower tool to the dip stick tube with some 8mm fuel hose. 4. Set your pressure reg on your air compressor to about 5-10 psi and slowly begin to presurise the block. (this will force oil up the pickup and into the pump, through the block galleries and out your clear tube attached to your gauge port. It will take quite a while to come through too, so be patient.) 5. Once you see oil in the clear hose, stop with the air tool. Then crank the engine for a moment. You should see oil flow at the tube. 6. With that all done, put the pressure sender back in and unblock your cam cover vents etc. 7. Crank the engine again and you should see oil pressure within a few seconds. Keep in mind the pump has to fill the rest of the galleries in the block and this can take a moment. Filling the filter will help cut this time down.. If you then have oil pressure you can re-connect everything and start the engine. If it is taking too long to get oil through the hose at step 5, you can crank the engine while pressurising the block. Just be prepare to stop the moment you see oil in the clear hose or you will make a mess.

Yes very impressive result. I'll bet the officials were a little un-impressed after that run though, no cage or chute and all.

Im after a pair of big dump pipes for a GTR. I'd prefer the early style 3" welded Tomei ones, but am open to other options. I have heard that HPC have a 3" dump pipe as well. Im interested in custom dumps as too , provided they will allow fitment of a fairly standard dump pipe. I'll want to see some decept pictures of them first though. Cheers, ian

Update. I performed a tear down inspection on the engine today. Much to my delight there was no visible signs of any issues with the spacer place or sleeving seals. I will be having a lab perform an analysis on an oil sample I have taken from the engine next week. With luck this will confirm there is no coolant contamination (or hidden issues with the engine). Re-assembly will be finished tomorrow. There is still a couple more parts to source before I can fit the engine to my R34, but my confidence in the success of this project is now very high. Thanks Robbo, the next engine is an RB28 (2830cc from memory) built in an RB26 block. I want to run a pair of 2530's on it and set it up for ultimate response. Ive have to buy another GTR to run the engine in though, so in car testing for that engine might be quite a while off. I have too many projects on the go at the moment...

Damage to the main bearing journels could be colatteral damage, as a result of debris in the oil system after the rod bearing let go. Do you know what your oil pressure was at 8000 rpm? The old school rule says 10psi per 1000 rpm but I'd be leaning to 15psi/1000 rpm with an engine that makes the power like yours does. Were your rod bearing previously factor or clevite? Im wondering if it might have been a little detonation too, slowly hammering the rod bearings till they gave way. Changing to an ACL rod bearing may help the engine tolerate the punishment a little more next time.

Frick.... double post!

My mate Mike wants to buy this from you, but isnt a member and cant contact you. Can you give him a call so you can arrange for payment, shipping etc. His details are: Mike Anderson 0400 78 77 17 [email protected] Cheers, Ian

My mate Mike wants to buy this from you, but isnt a member and cant contact you. Can you give him a call so you can arrange for payment, shipping etc. His details are: Mike Anderson 0400 78 77 17 [email protected] Cheers, Ian

Hi, Is the front pipe still available? If it is a fellow R34 owner wants to buy it. Can you give my mate a call so he can arrange payment, freight etc. Mike Anderson 0400 78 77 17 [email protected] Cheers, Ian

Hi Matt, How much of the exhaust system did you sell? Do you still have the front pipe or did it go with the rest of the system? If you do still have the front pipe, a fellow R34 owner wants to buy it. If you can give him a call he would like to purchase quickly (we have track day coming up). His detais are: Mike Anderson 0400 78 77 17 [email protected] Cheers, Ian

I did a bit of research yesterday about the shuffle issue and there is a lot of theory's about why it happens. Everything from intakes, to bovs, then manifolds and the HKS balancing manifolds, which Paul got a bad result with, yet Gav (2.8Lt) got a good result with... I guess time will tell. I have pressurised the engines cooling system now to 1.3 bar and hot run it a few more times. All good so far still, and no signs the cooling system/oil system cross contamination. Im planning on running these tests for another week or so and then will be getting an oil analysis done to be 100% sure everything is ok before putting it in the car. I still need to source some 3" (tomei or something) dump pipes for it yet.

Yeah its only 70cc larger than your engine. 35cc per turbo probably isnt going to be a vastly noticable improvement.

Yeah that is a lot of "loose opinions" around about running lowish rod ratios in motors. Everyone seems to focus on the negative aspects (or claim the opinions of other builders as their own), but like all things there are some good positive aspects as well. The main two I like is more immediate torque and vastly superior throttle response from low RPM's. There is no chance of the spacer plate or sleeves moving at all. The plate is dowelled to the head and block with two dowels in the standard location that go through the plate and protrude from both sides(does that make sense?). The fitment into the dowels to the head and block is machined to zero thou. That combined with the plate having been drilled to fit 1/2" head studs means that even before the head went on the block the plate wouldnt move sideways at all. The sleeves are pretty hard core as well. Realistly you'd have to blow apart a piston before you'd come close to cracking a cylinder at the top of the sleeve. In the porsche world with alloy Nikasil cylinders, they are running upwards of 140hp per cylinder with cylinder wall thicknesses of less than 0.250". The iron cylinders im using are thicker than that at the flange, and iron of course... stronger. Whats this im hearing about turbo shuffle? Is this an issue Im going to have to contend with? Where should I read more about it?

Hi everyone, I thought it was about time I did a post for my project, especially since I’ve had some great success! Quite a few of you may have heard that I've been working on this little engine project. The goal was to develop a reliable and cheap *cough* *cough* engine that would deliver a huge amount of mid range torque where the RB26DETT's really lack it. The simplest way to do this was to add more displacement. So as you all know how to do that right? Tomei/HKS 87x77.7mm 2.8lt stroker kits that deliver 2770cc, or an RB30 bottom end, and a whole lot of grief in fitting it under the bonnet. I didn’t want either of these options. Frankly 2.8lt isn’t enough, and RB30... I just didn’t want to go there. So I decided to go about this my own way. My engine is based on an RB26 block but has been sleeved to increase the block's deck height, allowing me to use longer rods and a much larger crankshaft. My design has similarities to OS Giken engines, but is entirely my own design. The design is intended to be cheap to manufacture and simple to assemble. Long term I would like to be manufacturing and selling pre-assembled bottom ends (kit engines), but that’s a long way off at the moment (so please don't ask just yet). I still have a lot more R&D to do. I have set a bunch of goals for the project and what I want to achieve with this first engine. This engine block and sleeve setup will in theory, reliably support a maximum of around 900hp(flywheel). But the goal of this engine is monster torque, not outright power. Its designed for the street, not the drag strip or to win dyno comps. The engine must also idle like a stock RB26. In fact I want the whole engine bay to look like the engine is stock except for the strut bar will be a little closer to the engine covers (to help avoid the attention of those blue uniformed people). I want it to have at least 1.5 times the torque of an RB26 below 3000 RPM. Transition onto boost should be at least as responsive as stock turbo’s on a standard RB26DETT. Power wise, I’m after 600hp or 450kw at the tyres. With the exception of the rotating internals of the block, the engine is pretty standard, albeit good quality components. Nitto oil pump, N1 water, R34 Vspec 2 head, and a pair of HKS GTRS turbo’s. The crankshaft is a customised RB30 crank which now has an 87mm stroke. It has been grub screwed to facilitate proper cleaning, and fitted with the jun oil pump drive collar. To get it to fit the 26 block the counterweights are also modified a lot so they clear the oil squirters and edges of the cylinder bores. I am using Pauter SR20 rods and some custom 87mm Wiseco forged pistons. Bearings are all ACL race series. The engine itself now displaces 3104cc. (87mmx87mm). My spacer plate system uses a custom gasket under the plate to isolate the water passages and the oil returns from the head. I use an external feed to supply the head with oil, and machined my 1.5mm restrictor into the spacer plate. This eliminates any risk of an oil leak occurring between the block/spacer/head. I’ve used a Nitto head gasket on the top of the spacer under the head. The whole lot is clamped down with ½” ARP head studs. I’ve assembled the engine as you would pretty much do a standard engine. No special internal material coatings, though the (wiseco’s are molly coated on the side skirts from factory). The exhaust manifolds are standard cast items but are match ported to the turbo’s. I have ceramic coated the manifolds and turbine housings internally and externally, and fitted the manifolds each with an EGT sensor system, to aid in achieving that ultimate tune. Only the power steering pump bracket has been welded to accomodate the raised deck. I'd like to send out a huge thanks to all the pro's out there in Skyline/RB world that have let tid bits of information loose here and there, that have allowed me to piece this project together. The project has been in the works a little over 12 months now, and finally has netted some results. VIDEO! Alive at last! These are the results after about 15 minutes of stuffing around with basic mapping, and unfortunatly no AFR meter at the moment (its presently installed in another car ). All in all Im smiling from ear to ear! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=keGL6_GEShI http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvO2z8NlkLk More to come in a few months time... Cheers, Ian Swinkels

Most dont get it... and those that do are showing their age! Bloodsport. Van Damme's younger years. A film about brawling with the gayest music sound track ever attached to a movie.

The one above uses a modified RB30 crank, with the rod journels offset ground and widened to SR20DET dimensions, and slotted to clear the oil squirters, plus it has the usual standard mods. Jun pump drive, drilled and grub screwed oil galleries, precision balance, etc. This engine is 87x87=3104cc, and the same rod/stroke ratio as an SR20. Its possible to go a little larger on the stroke, but you start getting rod to sleeve interference issues past about 88mm. Here's a couple more pics of the other project again. Yes its a VW so I hope you all dont get sick! I finally got the engine started last weekend too. Its been nearly 3 years ive had the car off the road, and virtually every part of the car is custom now Most people can't spot the standard parts. There is about 8 of them! Entirely custom chassis, porsche 968 brakes and suspsension, 930 tranny, 4 stage dry sump system, and a custom VW "oxy boxer" based 2.5lt twin turbo'd (8cm T517z's). My dream now blows flames!

No it doesnt have a diagnostic for that. Your best bet would be to eliminate the basics first. Dont do too much diagnosis at once though. Take small steps. 1. check your plugs, see if the dead cylinders have wet (fuel) plugs. Consider swapping plugs between working and non-working cylinders to eliminate faulty parts. 2. swap coil packs around, for the same reason as above. 3. Try another ecu, or a standard one if you can get your hands on one. 3. consider pairing up cylinders for waste spark operation. This is done at the ignitor. 1+6, 5+2,3+4. As dodgy as it might sound you can try using a single paper clip to bridge the ignitor inputs. You will need a circuit diagram for your model engine. If it doesnt start to fire the dead cylinder using this method it could still not be getting fuel. Good luck!