GTRNUR

Thanks, that answers the question, and it seems I can source them from the top secret website.

yeah the front part looks standard, but the back part of the side skirt (where it says bridgestone) isnt. It has that part that goes low in front of the tyre (to catch stone chips most likey), but it still looks good. Seems to have the N1 pods behind the rear tyre too.

Ive been considering the top secret bodykit for my R34 GTR but havent been able to locate the side skirts. They look like the R32 N1 side skirts and pods that have been adapted to fit the R34. Has anyone ever seen side skirts to suit? Cheers, Ian

That sucks! I feel your pain. Lucky indeed. Most normal civilians arent that luckly, and to have a cop with a "vested interest" in solving the matter has worked in your favour. Without the police getting actively involved the average civilian hasnt got a chance at getting a fair result. I had a situation like this about a year ago. A mates RX3 was backed into by a B-double truck that was reversing down the road near his work. We actually got the incident recorded on low grade survelance video. It was enough to ID the truck and track down the driver. Despite there being traded paint on his truck and video evidance the truck had been on the road, as well as an admission from the owner/driver (to me and my mate) he managed to get away scott free. The truck was actually not registered and had no insurance, and the driver/owner wasnt allowed to drive because of surgery due to a heart condition. So armed with this information the police did absolutely NOTHING! That incident still gets me going.

You have a PM.

LOL its not the first time ive missed out on those tomei dump pipes! Seems they are the fastest selling item you can list for sale on SAU. The snorkel was more of a wish list item for me. I realy need dumps and a front pipe before i go buying 1/2 the nismo catalogue... Regarding your question and reason for sale... Stock 34 GTR dumps are good for up to 300kw easy. Ive heard others report as high as 350kw. Going with stock dumps and a 2nd hand nismo front pipe, or something else (hks, etc) in the 65mm ID range will meet your needs nicely. The trust split pipes are very attractive as well but I have no experience with them. Nismoid does though, so he is the man to ask (as to how they compare to stock 34 dumps and a good front pipe for 300kw). Keeping the stock manifolds and dumps (match porting them), and getting a good 2nd hand front pipe will work well and save you some money. You can then spend the spare cash on coatings. If you get your exhaust turbines, manifolds, front pipe and dumps internally and externally coated, and your heat shields blasted and ceramic coated as well, it will help reduce under bonnet temps and heat soak, and improve flow and performance... win win win.

Hi Ben, Are you back on deck again yet? Im still after your R34 loom and resistor pack. Cheers, Ian

Nice to know Im not the only geek that did that!

I agree. Drop the N1 pump too and buy a JUN or something better with the money you'll save, and run the 1.5mm restrictor/block off plug setup as per sydney kids recommendonations. If your overly concerned about oil surge on the street because of how you give the car hell, then run the oil level a tad above the high line. Problem solved.

Are these the tig welded tomei dumps with the 3" output flanges or those expreme ones with the 2.5" flanges? First dibs on the dumps if they are the welded 3" large ones. Im interested in the snorkel as well. Whats the price on that?

If its any help I have a brand new set of 6 28mm compression height custom CP's with 21mm gudgens and 5cc domes to suit this kit as well. I'll sell them for what they owe me around $1700. They were actually made for an RB32 with a 26 head. In a RB28 they would mean lower compression and the ability to run very close squish (0.030) to help with resisting detonation without shaving the quench pads out of the heads.

Im after a CAS sensor plug for a GTR. Specifically I want an R34 plug but I think the plugs are the same for all the GTR CAS sensors. The plug must have a few inches of wires attached so I can make a new loom up with it. Cheers, Ian

Can you post a pic of the dumps? Im considering either tomei dumps or something else 3" like the HPI ones you have on offer.

Is the loom an R34 loom, and will/can it include the loom for the R34 GTR coil packs (ie: no ignotor module on the rocker covers)?

The test rig uses the standard gtr engine mounts and is made from 25x65 box section steel. It should be strong enough once bolted to the floor. Your right in that the idea isnt to measure power, or even tune the engine. I just want to run it to hot a few times and check there isnt any cross contamination between the oil and water. If there is, its easier to investigate and fix if its on a stand than it would be if it were in a car. It should be fine though considering the tolerances the whole engine machined too but I prefer to be cautious.

Good to hear you finally getting your GTR running again. There is nothing like hearing an engine thats been dormant for a long time coming to life! Your 100% right there. I intend to bolt it to the concrete floor with those bolts that you have to hammer-drill into the concrete for (ramset? or whatever they are called). The test rig is all finished now with a VL auto bellhousing, gtr starter and radiator all mounted. I just need to wire a MAP based aftermarket ecu and install a fuel system on the rig which will be happening inside the next 2 weeks. I hope to have a video of the engine running shortly.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...ot-t242592.html Search.

Stock 2jz supra twin turbo's use a restrictor in the exhaust to reduce exhaust flow. Once thats removed boost climbs to 15-18 from memory. I put an 80mm nismo catback on my R34 gtr and it went up to 1 bar with the stock ecu, now though with the power fc (and no boost controller kit) its back to 0.8 bar max.

The correct procedure is to measure the pistons, then bore the cylinder to the appropriate clearance. Rings from the piston manufacturer are manufactured in bulk for a specific bore size by the thousands and then a set of 6 is shipped with each piston. They dont go to the effort of measuring each piston (which can have variences up to a few thou, and then adjusting the rings accordingly. Doing so would be a waste of time as every machine shop and builder does things a little differently. So, the rings shipped while having some gap must be appropriately modified to suit each cylinder bore for the application that the engine is being built for. Eg, Street turbo or NA, drag, NOS... As for accuracy, my machine shop works to a 0 thou tolerance for everything they do, and using a good diamond ring file there is no reason someone that knows what they are doing cant achieve the same level of tolerance. It just takes time and patience. Not gapping at all, and using the rings straight out of the box could result in cylinder damage when the rings heat up, or broken rings, and then damaged piston ring lands.

What about using a hydraulic switch T-d into the hydraulic clutch line to send the signal to your ecu/ignition box? The simple style that is used for brake lights on some older cars. Edit: Never mind.. just saw the clutchless shifting driving style...

Hi Ben, Do you still have the R34 GTR loom up for grabs? Im after the complete loom, including the coil packs wiring if you still have it. Cheers, Ian

Yes you generally get your coatings done before the block machining. Especially if you have the piston skirts moly coated.

Ive seen 625rwhp from an 30/25 with no internal coatings or squirters. Ceramic crown coatings will keep oil temps down though, and IMO i'd be using them if you dont have squirters. Saves your oil cooler from having to work as hard to keep oil temps down. While your at it, get the skirts moly coated too. Matching cylinders to pistons is pretty extreme. Ive never heard of anyone being quite that anal before. Save your desire to go to the extreme when filing your rings. File the ring sets to suit each cylinder and do one piston/cylinder at a time, numbering 1-6. Measure the ring clearance at the position in the cylinder the they will be when the piston is at TDC. Just use a vernier to measure the ring land heights on the pistons, and then push the ring down the cylinder that far when gapping. If you pull out a micrometer and measure your pistons up they should all be very closely matched. You will notice that they arent round though. The shape of the forging and the type of re-enforcing in the piston along with the material type determine how much the piston expands and in what direction. They are supposed to become round once they are up to temp, which hapens within the first 30 seconds of idling.

Piston manufacturers supply clearance spec sheets with their pistons for a good reason. They KNOW that a piston of X diameter will expand Y amount when up to temperature. As the iron cylinders expands at a slower rate to the pistons, the piston manufacturers calculate the required clearance based on piston and cylinder material so they get the best cylinder seal. The wiseco's in my most recent engine are machined to 2.75 thou, as per the manufacturer specs. I cant remember the grade of alloy they are made of, but it is different from CP's material. Because CP use a different type of forged alloy, the same diameter piston will expand at a different rate, which is why the clearances are different. Out of interest, air cooled porsches run a 0.001" clearance between the piston and cylinder as their cylinders are nikasil coated aluminium, so the piston and cylinder expand at the same rate. The reason they get away with such close clearances is that everything is machined properly. So long as the block is bored and honed when a torque plate is bolted on to spec (supply your ARP head studs and torque spec details if your using them), then there is nothing at all wrong with going 3.5 thou. If they are boring without a torque plate, that could explain their desire to run 4 thou. It makes it "safe" for them, but certinly doesnt help your leak down/blow by. Follow the spec sheet for filing your rings as well. Same principal as per pistons result in ring gaps being what they are, so that when hot the close up that gap so there is a near perfect seal. Hope that helps.

Post up some pics of the Stadium truck Paul. Amazing vehicles those are with their massive suspension travel. Great little motors too those 1UZFE's. I had fun messing around with a twin turbo'd one a few years ago. They LOVE a little forced induction.