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I'd lay money that the problem isnt an alarm related issue. Did your dad's mate test the ignitor digital inputs to the ignitor with an oscilloscope when the engine was being cranked? If not then his diagnosis is incorrect. The ignition coils will not fire and neither will the ignitors if there is an issue with the CAS sensor. If your CAS sensor has been stuffed around with and the seals on it are broken, water will have definatly gotten in there and it will be messing with the optic sensor. The ignition coils fire in full sequental mode and the injectors in batch fire mode (when cranking) on RB engines. For the engine to start at all the CAS sensor has to be operating correctly or the ECU doesnt know where in the 720 degrees rotation the crankshaft is, and therefore it can not fire the correct ignition coil. 1. Do you see any RPM on the tacho when cranking the engine? If yes then the problem is electrical... Ie power to injecors or ignition coils. If no then look at the CAS sensor again. Try and borrow another sensor from someone else. 2. If someone else's CAS sensor fixes the problem you can try drying yours out by carefully pulling the cover off and then letting it dry out in the sun for a little while. Do not touch the trigger disc or spray the sensor with anything, especially WD40. It is an OPTIC sensor and needs to be clean and dry, not lubricated. Some electronic cleaning solvents will damage plastics in optic sensors too, and ALL of them spray out cold so they attract moisture when evaporating, not solving the moisture problem, but instead adding to it. 3. Basic electrical tests. Test from the temp sensors and throttle position sensor to the engine block with a multi-meter. You should get 5V on one side of all the sensors. (except the narrow band exhaust gas sensor). 4. Test for power supply to injectors. You should see 12V from both sides of the injector plug (when connected to the injector) or one side when unplugged, when measured to ground. 5. Coil pack supply power can be measured at the ignitor. Unplug the output from ignitor that goes to the coils and measure from each of the 6 pins to ground and you should see 12v provided the coils are all plugged in properly. Check the earth on your ignitor, it should be screwed to the rocker cover or the ignitor will not work reliably, and can potentially burn out if you just leave it floating around held in place with a prayer. The ignitor fires the coils when it receives a +5V pulse signal from the ECU. You can not measure this with a multi-meter. You will only detect pulses with an oscilloscope, as they are only 1-2ms in duration. 6. If you know someone with a power fc or other aftermarket management ecu ask them to try it in your car so they can help diagnose the cause of the issue. Most importantly... If none of this makes sense, then dont even try diagnosing it any further yourself. You need the assistance of someone that actualy understands EFI and especially someone with Skyline experience. Tinkering with things you do not understand can potentially result in a lot more broken components, and an even more expensive bill when you do finally get a professional to look at it. Good luck again! Ian

The really perverse thing about Mike's front bar on his RX7 is that it is actually a modified aftermarket commodore fiberglass front bar. Your right that it really does suit it though. Its a one of a kind. I really like the custom flame work that has been done on the front of that car too. The harlequin flames appear and disappear when you look at the car from diferent angles. There's nothing wrong with a well built 12A either. Great little motors they are.

Nice looking project! You'd like my mates car. Same Series RX7 as your car with some custom bodywork and a Dyson built 13B making aroung 600hp on its high boost tune. Here is some video his car at a go-woah event at a local car show. His car is at 40 seconds and again later in the video.

Yeah the cermaic coating are expensive, but they do work and look great. I posted up a dead link too... I'll try that agian... http://competitioncoatings.com.au/ Once youve finished rubbing those covers with 600 + 1200 grit paper you'll find you have no finger prints. Something else to look forward too...

Thats hard work polishing those covers up! Ive seen a few people go crazy tring to get that perfect finish. Had you considered having them ceramic coated instead? www.competitioncoating.com.au do a chrome style ceramic coating that looks great and is zero maintenance down the track too. They do tinted colours as well. Maintaining polished metal in an engine bay is a right pain in the ass. The 11 blade magnesium alloy porshce fan that is polised on the engine pic that I posted needs to be re-polished every 2 weeks because the combination of engine bay air and heat really accelerates oxidization.

Chances are its flooded all to hell now because its been cranked over for too long with no ignition. You have 2 options. 1. Leave it on charge overnight and just try it in the morning. Try cranking it over with the throttle flat to the floor to clear the flooding. 2. (And you might need to do this anyway if 1 doesnt work). Unplug the injectors, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over with the throttle wide open for about 15 seconds. This will clear all the fuel from the engine. Then plug all the spark plugs into the coils. Earth all the plugs with a bit of wire to the engine (yes 6 bits of wire). Then turn the engine over again to test your ignition is actually working. (have someone watch the plugs). If they all spark then put it all back together again. The car should then start normally. Let us know how it goes.

You would need to prove it on a dyno and log the AFR's. What you are describing could be symptomatic of a fuel pressure problem. This could indicate issues with the fuel pump, or an issue with the charcoal canister. Is your charcoal canister still connected?

Remove the coil pack cover and make sure your coil packs and plugs arent being drowned by water. Ive seen this before with washed engines not starting again. It most likely isnt the CAS as they are a fully sealed unit. You should be able to completely immerse the sensor and it will still be ok.

Well after a lot more googling I finally came across this useful link on a V8 forum. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/veh...n/vsb_ncop.aspx These are the updated rules for everything modification related. It turns out that a "conversion" upgrade for a skyline can be up to 3x the vehicle weight (in cc) under the LA1 table ruling, while still remaining a forced induction engine. The allowed CC is referred to as the swept volume so it is a bit of an assumption but it stands to reason that if the block remains the same yet doesnt exceed 4.8lt then its legal, so I think your right. Im just researching because someone that knows what to look for can spot a spacer plate engine. The whole point of what I want to achieve with my engine project is the engine must appear to be stock, or very close to it. I still want to know exactly what is legal and what isn't, just in case something is spotted. After all if your going to spend $15-20K on an engine and were told you had to pull it out by the authorities you wouldnt be too happy would you?

Hi all, Im trying to find information regarding what is legal regarding increasing an engines displacement. Ive been reading a few threads on SAU, and aparently some people have had issues with getting RB30's approved in their cars as the RB30 is an older engine design than was supplied in skylines 1998 and onwards. (one of the patrols had a RB30 in 1998, so thats aparently the cut off date). So what about over-bored and stroked engines? Where is the line drawn there? I am sure that most owners would never admit to the authorities that they have a JUN 2.7, HKS 2.8 or apexi 2.9 kit in their cars, and from the outside it is not possible to detect these modifications. However, if it is illegal, is it not possible that the QLD transport authorities might want to test an engine and measure the combusion chamber somehow? Ive looked at the QLD transport code of practice manual (I have a copy of the 1998 manual) and the sections on the engine only seem to relate to engine substitution (LA1) and fitment of forced induction (LA3). Is there more up-to-date details anywhere else? Cheers, Ian

A mate has an EVO8MR and it impressed me with how it drove for a small car. It still seems practical enough that you can go to the shops and buy your groceries with, yet its still pretty quick. But, in comparison the R34 GTR there really is no contest. The R34 gtr is way more comefortable, and around a short or medium track (up to 200k's) the R34 is a faster car. Even in standard tune an R34 GTR is quicker than an Evo8MR in lightly modified tune. This was proven at a recent track event we had where a standard R34 GTR Vspec was 2 seconds faster around our bitumen sprints track. The Evo 8 on the other hand was running improved suspension as well as 18lb's of boost and a ralliart ecu. Both cars were on bridgestone street tyres. To a degree it comes down to the driver, but the car sure does make a hell of a difference.

Well I went for a quick lap today and have altered the settings for air temp vs INJ on injector 2 as JonnoHR31 has suggested. As Paul had confirmed, these settings 2 air temp corrections have no effect at idle, yet the corrections are applied when driving. So thanks for your assistance guys. Thanks for your assistance to Trent. Especially offering to look at a map for me in the middle of the xmas break period. I changed the 70 degree air temp value from 1.147 to 1.050 ish(I think.. that was 6 hrs ago and im in holiday mode!). This seems to have done the trick as the AFR's are no longer diving well into the 11's when on boost. It actually went to 12.0:1 (so it seemed I guessed close). So I think this has resolved the issue I was having. In the end it was just my lack of understanding about how the corrections are applied. Every ecu sure does work a little diferently and I am finally getting to know the FC's quirks. Now all I need to do is wait till it cools down a bit so I can get a cooler air temp tune into the car, then it will just be a matter of tweaking the air temp corrections... now that I know that they actually do work! One more question... With the Wolf ECU's that ive tuned in the past, it is possible to re-scale the MAP sensor so the tuning map provides more resolution at the low end of the load scale, and max boost pressure = 100% load on the fuel map. It is also possible to re-set the lowest manifold pressure point to be the zero load point on the map. I hope that makes sense? Ive noticed that the FC seems to never be able to achieve low enough airflow (at idle or in de-cel) so that the active load point is in the 1st row on the map. Also as the car is only running 0.8 bar, the max load band achieved is only 14 (15 occasionally if I really push it and get a boost spike to 0.85 bar). So essentially I am only able to tune with 13-14 load bands.. Not 20. Is there a guide somewhere for re-scaling the load points of the FC's map so it is appropriately scaled to the engines operating ranges? The Settings 3 page relating to the MAP airflow sensors allow altering of the airflow curves, but I dont quite understand how the 1-32 points on the air flow curves relate to the 0-20 load points. Cheers, Ian

I honestly get as much, if not more enjoyment out of building/modifying than I do driving. The process of modifying often take a lot longer than any particular drive you might go on. The satisfaction of achievement at the completion of a build is what makes it all worth while. Creating something from something else, or building something that has never been built before. Finding solutions to engineering chalanges. Im sure I would enjoy driving a lot more if there were better roads, less traffic (obnoxious trailgating drivers) and more motorsport facilities in my area.

Hi everyone, Has anyone else out there that is making good progress with their car projects this christmas-new year break? This week has been the first week of holidays Ive had in 3 years, so ive been making the most of it. So far Ive completed my RB31dett engine build, wired a V500 ECU into one of my other cars and am continuing with the cars assembly. I havent made progress like this in months! I've found that find that when your project(s) come to a stand still its often hard to get motivated again, and often seeing someone elses success helps get you back on track again. So with that in mind, post up your holiday break success stories. Here are a few pics of mine. Cheers, Ian

Thanks Paul, i'll have another shot at playing with the air temp INJ corrections. I should have mentioned earlier that I have tried setting these to 1.000, and also very large values in the past, but they didnt seem to have any effect on the AFR or delivered INJ value. I suppose it is possible that these changes do not come into effect until the engine is driving under load though (like the ignition lock at 20 degrees when at idle), as when I was making these changes I was stationary. Ive been keeping the knock levels pretty low (<20 at max rpm/boost) and have my threshold for the warning set to 30. I havent noticed any knocking so far. Quite possibly because the ignition is already tuned somewhat retard compared to cooler climates. This will no doubt change in 6 months when it cools down 10-15 degrees though. Cheers, Ian

Nitto do an 88mm one. Got mine from CRD.

I think its like Paul was saying. The ecu is going into "over protective mother mode" and dumping in a ton of extra fuel to starve off detonation. It just seems that for every degree above 60 degrees the amount of fuel added is at least a 0.100 correction. Tuning in my climate then means I have about 5 degrees of tunable area before the ecu goes into mother mode.

No sorry its a MAF sensor version. The car is more or less standard except for a nismo exhaust too. Its no radically modified car by any means. Im just after a better tune. The standard ECU was running 11.5 - 11.2:1 AFR when on boost (on a normal 28 degree day, not the 35+ degree days we are getting at the moment). Its the same sensor for air and water on the R34's too. The picture I posted of a sensor in the first post is what is used in the wolf/haltech ecu setups, and they react a lot faster. You can actually see temps change when data logging air temps vs boost. As far as the datalogit forums went, I only found one reference to a guy with an MR2 that had simular issues. He was advised to try a simular sensor upgrade as well, but there was no follow up as to how well it went.

Just had another idea.... I could look at wiring a resistor in parallel with the air temp sensor, so that as the sensor approaches 50 degrees it will only really be repoting 40ish or so. It will take a bit of stuffing around, but since I cant seem to alter the rate at which the AFR's are richened up, tricking the ECU to think that it is further down the scale might work. The ignition retards vs air temp will still work, and will just need to be tweaked to accomodate the new scale.

I was hoping you'd chime in Paul. I think I will probably have to go for option 1, and just grin and bear the crappy fuel economy/rich running on a hot day. It just seems that the rate the PFC richen's up the mixtures as temp increases is a little too exponential. Can you please explain how the INJ vs Air temp + Boost setting on the setting 2 page is supposed to work? Is this only really relivent for when you have a boost control module connected so that the ECU can reference an external map senor too? Cheers, Ian

Thanks mate, ive just sent a copy of the most recent ecu config. Cheers, Ian

Ive been re-tuning my car for summer driving, and have been strugling with issues steming from the Air temp corrections. Basically ive found that I can get a perfect tune during the day, or at night, but not both. The problems appear to be stemming from 2 area's. Firstly, the air temp corrections in Setting 2 dont seem to be having an effect (or my understanding of how these values apply to the base map is wrong). Secondly, the air temp sensor location (in the plenum in an R34 GTR) seems to be getting heat soaked when stuck stationary in traffic, and it takes sustained driving at speeds above 80km/h to rapidly re-cool that sensor sufficently so that the engine isnt being over-fueled again. The actual engine temps are being reported as being at the lowest 79 degrees and a peak of 85 degrees when stuck in traffic in the middle of the day(PWR radiator). If the car is tuned in the middle of the day, as air density is lower (hotter air) the fueling requirements are less. However the same tune at night is as much as 0.5 to 0.7 AFR incorrect as a result of changes in air density. A little background.... Im tuning with a Datalogit linked to a 0-5V PLX devices wideband AFR. Crusing at 80-100km/h in the middle of the day I am seeing air temps around 55-58 degrees. At 60km/h and below when stuck in traffic, air temps are being reported as being as high as 66 degrees. I have seen the temps past 70 if the car is parked when hot and then allowed to heat-soak, and then restarted. Both of these situations are when outside ambient temps are about 36-38 degrees (a scorching hot day). So can anyone think of what Im doing wrong here? Is it my lack of understanding of how the air temp corrections are implemented in settings 2, or is this just a grin and bear it situation that can't be effectively tuned around? Also, has anyone ever considered moving the air temp sensor from the plenum to be in the hose, a little further away from the plenum so that it is less suseptable to heat soak, and also possibly updating the sensor so that it is of the new NTC style air temp sensor, so temp changes are more rapidly detected? Cheers, Ian

Don't match port to the gasket size as per your picture, you will be removing too much material. You want to match port to the inlet side of the turbine. Use your gasket as a guide to measure how much material has to be removed by comparing the exposed metal visible with the gasket on the turbo, and then on the manifold, then mark the diference. Depending on what turbo's your using the amount of material you remove will vary. Ive match ported some standard manifolds to a pair of HKS GTRS's and the amount of material that had to be removed was only about 4mm. You carbide burr will be fine, just be sure to have someone assist by spraying the burr and manifold with water when your die-grinding, or the generated heat will damage the burr pretty quickly. Water works as a cutting agent too so the whole porting process will only take about a minute per manifold. I wouldnt be too concerned about finish. When you get them ceramic coated the outside and inside of the manifolds are garnet blasted which prepares the surface for adhesion of the coating. Then once sprayed, the internal ceramic coating will fill any surface imperfections very quickly.

The problem is placement of the cooler, not running lines to it. If the cooler were put inside the front bar, passenger side, it will only get airflow from the small gril covered hole that is in the front bar. The Nismo setup has a duct next to the indicator that ducts air to it, and the cooler itself is shrouded in so the air has to go through the core instead of being able to flow around it uselessly. I do like the idea of the heat exchanger in the radiator core, but have already got a PWR radiator in the car. I should have had PWR but an oil cooler in it when they made the core but neglected to do that. Now that I think about it a bit more, I think it was ARC that made an oil cooler that goes in the horn gril area. I still cant find any good pictures of it though.

I thought both the hks and trust kits put the cooler in front of the radiator? So there is a Trust kit that puts the cooler in the front bar passenger side? Do they come with a decent mount for the cooler or is it something you have to fabricate yourself? The only kits ive seen were the cooler, hoses and filter adapter.