GTRNUR

Hi everyone, Ive been investigating where to put an oil cooler on my R34 GTR and it seems there arent a lot of options. Ive investigated the Nismo kit (nengun) (http://www.nengun.com/nismo/oil-cooler-kit). Not ont is it bloody expensive, it also requires a Nismo bumper. Ive yet to get the price on that but based on the fact the 400R bars for the R33 are about $4500 delivered I think I'll pass because all up thats close on $7k just to get a well designed oil cooler arrangement! I want to keep the car either all genuine R34 GTR parts or Nismo where possible. IE: No non sub-standard quality parts. It seems the other kits (greddy/hks/etc) all seem to put the oil cooler in front of the radiator and behind the aircon evaporator. Not exactly ideal placement. The only other place ive found that seems like a good place is behind the gril in front of the aircon evaporator where the horns are. I think it was the 400R N1's that ran an oil cooler in there, or it might have been the Mines R33... I cant remember I figure I can move the horns further apart and then put a 15"x3"x3" oil cooler in there. There will be room to run -10 oil lines out of there pretty easly too. So does anyone elase have any suggestions, pictures appreciated. Cheers, Ian

Those carbon parts look great Matt! I was surprised you didnt go with the Nismo G-Attack suspension setup though considering the Nismo theme the rest of your car has? Im jealous that Im not able to be in a simular spending spree for my cars at the moment having just bought a new house. Hopefully that will change in a month or so...

Yes thats it. I always was better at maths than I was at art, especially past 12am. New table attached.

Sorry but Im not so good at making graphs. Ive got one other table that shows piston speeds and acceleration through 360 degrees crank rotation, and the comparison of the tomei to the HKS kit is really very little when comparing the two engine setups. Really the 119.5 rod was only made as an option to allow the use of a thicker crown piston that uses a conventional RB26 30mm compression height. Its well known that the 2.8 kits are safe for 10k so I didnt bother calculating the 8500rpm values. Ive attached the rest of the table. You might recall the Racepace 2.9 spaced block engine that used a 84mm crank and SR20 rods as well. At 9000 RPM the piston acceleration for a RB30 is 47.5m/s^2. The most important thing to keep in mind is the whole point of having a stroker engine is that you dont have to rev the hell out of the engine to make reliable power. That extra 400+cc of capacity will do for the RB30 what the RB30's displacement does over the RB26, if that makes sense. The beauty of the larger displacement AND the shorter rod ratio is that while the engine doesnt need to (and shouldnt) rev as much as another type of engine, the faster piston accelerations from BDC and TDC mean better cylinder filling making for a more torquie engine. The cylinder pulls into a vacuum faster on induction cycles than a higher ratio motor will, so the engine breathes more efficently. I agree with Marko's comment that there is nothing wrong with the strength of an RB30 crank. Rob @ RIPS certainly has proven that time and time again. I do wonder what kind of rods and pistons are in his 11,500RPM engine though, im guessing aluminium/titanium and some very fancy pistons. The inertia loading of chromoly rods and pistons at that engine speed would be increadably high. Acceleration factor of an RB30 crankshaft at 11500 rpm is 77.5m/s^2. That is a 1/2 again as much as the RB30 at 9000 RPM.

Nice to see the 3.4lt project is coming along still. Im just guessing, but if the compression heights are kept to a lowish 28mm and the custom rod length is about 152mm to suit the RB30 block, the rod ratio works out to 1.6:1. I've just run a few numbers on my engine calculator and for a street application with a degree of reliability 8000 rpm would be the absolute upper limit (including a missed gear shift). 8500 rpm would be pushing the limit of what the rod bolts and pistons will tolerate and 9000 RPM will break a conventional designed forged pistons as piston speeds exceed 46m/s. Also at 9000 RPM the acceleration away from TDC/BDC is 54.5 m/s ^2. Numbers like that are only seen in all out drag engines. ie... engines built entirely from top shelf custom parts the likes of carillo/pauter with wmc5 bolts and special piston designs. Titanium rods would go a long way to improving high rpm reliability as the rotating mass and rod big end loads are considerably less due to less inertia during the acceleration/deceleration phases of the engines rotation.

Well the first event was a huge success. The car turnout was very diverse. WRX's, EVO's, Skylines, Silvia's, a Porsche 930, a Ferrari 360, and a few other makes. There is a picture gallery uploaded on the promotors website for the event that can be viewed here. http://www.nqmp.com.au/gallery_b.htm I ended up not competing having recently had my lower wisdom teeth Im still taking it easy. The thought of competing and spending the day in the sun in 40 degree heat while wearing long sleves and pants (cams rules) sounded way too uncomfortable . The day was hot as hell. One other driver in an R34 GTR was seeing 112 degree water temps and 119 oil after only 4 laps so Im glad I wasnt out there punishing my car in that heat. Next year the 6 event season starts in late March, so it will have cooled down considerably by then. Cheers, Ian

I should have posted all the details from the start... so here goes. The tank is mounted at about the same height as the pump, so there is no down hill flow for the oil. Im sure that only helps for priming the pump but has little effect on the pump operation when the engine is running. The pump is an RPM 4 stage pump. 2 x scavenge stages are 1.75" and use -12 scavenge lines, and the 3rd scavenge stage uses a -10 line. The pressure stage is 1.25" and is all -10 from the pressure side to the engine. From the pump it blows through a remote filter and straight into the engine. I just spent the evening finishing off the -10 plumbing for the oil coolers to the thermostat. The thermostat return is a -10 hard line. The return line from the pump to the thermostat is yet to be purchased, but it will be easiest to setup with -12 as that was the fittings that came with the pump. The supply line has to go through the firewall and has 2 x 90 degree fittings (one off the tank and the other at the firewall), 1 x straight and 1 x 130 degree fitting at the pump end that is a size adapter from -16 hose to -12 fitting at the pump. Based on what everyone is saying I should be keeping the supply a -16, not only because of the length involved but also because of the bends and fittings that will be in the line. I estimate the supply line will be about 4.5 Meters and the return line will be about 5 meters. I was planning on using a -12 vent line to the catch can. Venting through the floor makes good sense too, thanks for that.

Afraid not, there just isnt a way to get the plumbing through the car now... I should have run pipes through the chassis before the car was 95% assembled. Now all thats left to do with it is wire the ecu and run the oil supply and returns. This is another one of those things i'll put on my list of things to do should I ever scratch build a race car again.

Contact GTRSTI on this forum. He has a ton of goodies like your after lying around so you might be able to get what your after from him.

Thanks for the info. Im able to run a -16 supply line without too much trouble. I have a ERL501 thermostat and a pair of oil coolers running on the return line before it returns to the tank. Is there any rule saying that a -12 return line isnt large enough? I figured because its returning to the tank and not under pressure it should be fine right?

Hi everyone, Ive got an engine with a 4 stage dry sump pump and I have a question about oil tank venting. The engine is fully sealed. From what I understand the 3 scavenge stages (which are 1.75" stages) should be able to pull the crankcase into a vacuum around the -10 to -15 inHG. Of course all this air that is sucked out of the block plus cylinder blow by ends up in the main oil tank and must be vented. I'll be doing this by a remote mounted vent with a couple of filters on it which is the pretty much standard approach. My question is, can I put a one way pressure relief valve in line between the remote vent and the filters in order to lightly pressurise the tank? My thoughts behind this is if the tank is lightly pressurised (to about 1 psi) this will assist oil flow to the pressure stage. With 1psi pushing oil to the pressure stage and a low vacuum on the other side of the engines bearings. The reason I want to do this is the length of the hose between the pressure stage and the tank is quite long because the oil tank is in the boot. The hose size I am using is -12. The pump pressure stage is 1.25". I'd appreciate any thoughts other people with dry sump experience might have about this. Cheers, Ian

Thanks guys. It wasn't as hard to achieve as was originally expected. The difficult part was having the patience to wait for it to actually happen. The key seems to be finding the right CAMS qualified people that are motivated and able to inspect tracks. Then it was just a lot of waiting for CAMS to complete the approval. More information about the event and proposed sprint series that will be run next year is available here: http://www.nqmp.com.au/ I'll try and post some images of the first event back here after its run this coming Sunday. Cheers, ian

Just thought i'd post an update. SUCCESS! Its taken a long time but the hard work has paid off. The track was inspected by a CAMS track inspector from Townsville a few months ago and we received confirmation the track is now CAMS approved for L2 Sprint events. There will be one "test" event before the end of the year which is actually next weekend. Not sure on exact numbers yet but there have been expressions of interest for over 40 drivers so far. And the sprint series consisting of 6 events for next year has been given the go ahead as well. The format is what I think is fairly standard for this sort of thing. Rolling start, 2 cars at a time started a 1/2 lap time apart, 4 lap sprint. If there is any interest from SAU members I can post the schedule for next years season once dates are finalised. Cheers, Ian

Aint that the truth. The factory gasket is pretty weak alright. I went with a metal gasket on my new engine as the factory one arrive pre-broken.

Just get a gasket to someone that knows how to drive autocad. I'd offer to do it for you but dont have any intake gaskets lying around. If you can scan a gasket in a photocopier that does scan to PDF or TIFF (even if it wont fit on one scan) pm me the pics and i'll give it a go. Put a ruler on the scanner bed too so I can use it for scale next to the gasket.

While the light can be switched on and off independantly the light will only work when the headlights are on. They dont work when the parkers are on or in any other condition. According to QLD transport defination this actually makes it a "driving" light, not a fog light. As was demonstrated by the cops that showed me the "fog" lights on their commodore can be switched on and off independantly of the headlights and parkers. I bought the car to drive it. Not to play with all the switches, although the MDF held my interest for about 2 minutes. Like ive already said, i dont drive the car that often at night so again like ive said, this is why ive not noticed it before.

Ok I think Ive got it sorted out now. Facts are that running front or rear FOG lights in clear conditions will get you a $40 fine, under the new Queensland transport road laws as of 12 October 2009. However my argument is that the rear light is NOT a FOG light, it is in fact a "Low visability tail light". As per the Road rules - Questions and answers document posted on the Queensland transport website, (http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/resources/file/ebe505404930729/Pdf_road_rules_qanda_290909.pdf), a FOG light is as follows: Question: What is the difference between fog lights and driving lights? Fog lights are designed to improve illumination of the road in adverse weather conditions and must be fitted not less than 250mm above ground level. It could (and will be) argued that the rear mounted red light on the back of a R34 is not designed to and does not illuminate the road for the driver of the car or for other drivers on the road. The light by design is to allow the the car to be more easily seen by following drivers in low visability situations such as rain, fog and smoke. That is all. I'll post up how i go when I contest this. Cheers, Ian

Perhaps yes, but technically "fog" is a low visability condition which is non-condesating. By that I mean that you can stand in the fog and not get wet. Rain is very diferent. Both conditions are low visability, but the key word here is "fog".

After flicking everything on and off a few times I finally found the switch that controls it. I just found this clarification of what defines a spot light and a fog light posted on another forum... now I just need to find it in documented law:

You mean the red light next to my number plate IS a fog light, or do you mean the ones in the picture with the yellow box around them. I figured that by defination red light was a low visability tail light, as like they have on the F1 cars when they race in the rain.

Terry, do you mean the fog lights are wired to come on with parking lights...? Or do you mean the light is wired on its own circuit, in much the same way as parking lights are? First post edited too so it makes more sense...

Here's a pic of the light that is in question.

So Ive just been issued with fine for having a rear FOG light *edited* turned on, on my car. Except that to my understanding my car doesnt have fog lights as far as i am aware of. Can anyone help me clarify this? The lights either side of the number plate on the back of an R34 GTR are the reverse light and what I thought was a "tail light". The police said this red light is a fog light. Now excuse my ignorance, but I always thought fog lights were those lights you see turned on during the day on commodores to make them look "cool"? Also, as far as I was aware, Nismo did make a fog lamp option for the R34, but they mount in the front bar under the headlamps as per the attached picture. I dont have these lights on my car. I have the japanese owners manual, and am thinking of having parts of it translanted to get a manufacturers ruling on what is what. Anyone care to straighten me out? Cheers, Ian

I think theyd be about the same to own and drive or campain as a race car. The last early 915 box I priced was $2800 for the standard 5 speed. The later model ones with the oil coolers that handle up to 450hp are around $3500. I paid $3300 for my current 930 4 speed, and they are virtually indestructable, easily handling over 500hp in track situations. They use them in US kit cars with big block chev's bolted onto them. $7k would get a built 915 box with all the fruit, custom gear set and all the strengthening modifications. Still you'd be mad to use a 915 box because the g50's are so much stronger again even in standard form.

It would be nice to know what interference fit they used when pressing the sleeves into the block. With an alloy block it should be at least 0.005" measured at room temperature. And the sleeves should be shrunk fit, or the block heated to allow them to be pressed in. For the alloy block to have expanded enough as it got up to temp for the sleeves to move the fitment is probably about 0.002" or less. Ive had loctite 640 sleeve retainer used on the sleeves as they are being pressed in on my block, to help with sealing but also to eliminate movement. A combination of this and partial grout filling may work, but its really just a bandaid solution. If one sleeve has moved chances are that all of them arent machined to the right tolerances, and they will all need to be pulled and replaced with a slightly over-size sleeve. Starting again with a new block would be the best way to go.