GTRNUR

Will you seperate the rear turbo elbow from the twin turbo pipe? Im chasing just this back elbow. Cheers, Ian

Great result Matt. Thanks for the comparison of the RB26-RB28 too. You can see where the added displacement and vcam fix the dip in the power delivery as it climbs onto boost. Do you have a sheet with the torque figures?

Just kidding about the marketing thing Matt, and if I were in melbourne Racepace would be the ones working on my car as well. Thanks for the info on the mat Matt. lol

Im beginnign to wonder if this isnt another Racepace viral marketing thread! But who cares, I still want to see the diference Vcam makes to low end torque on this beast. And since Im racing this weekend im not going to see the dyno sheet till monday now. Any chance you can tell us where you got that nice dashboard mat from?

Thanks Simon but I'd prefer to source the parts locally if I can.

That makes two of us Simon. Im having parts supply issues with sourcing a twin EGT sensor system that has to be fitted to the manifolds before they go onto the engine. Once the arrive the engine cain finally be finished and put in the car. Match ported the stock manifolds to the GTRS's and the head last weekend but the project is at a standstill for the moment. If you have an RB28 crank, i'd be more inclined to keep the block a closed deck. The whole point of using an RB30 or RB28 crank is to make the stroker kit cheap. If HKS/Tomei kits were cheap everyone would have one. De-stroking the RB28 to a little under 81mm and using good quality (pauter, carillo) RB26 conrods, SR20DET GTIR bearings, and a set of custom 26.5mm height pistons can get you around 2.9lt. Depending on the gudgen pin height you may end up with a positive deck, which running a 1.7-2mm gasket will solve. This combination with some HKS2530's or -5's would be awesome for the street and short track. I wouldnt be concerned about the rod ratio, just dont rev it past 7500. People always get so hung up on rod ratios and focused on the negative effects (cant rev it, engine wear etc). But the positive effects are also equally as good (massively improved cylinder filling make a huge improvement to low end torque). Yes I do intend to sell these in a pre-assembled kit form but thats a fair way off. I want to have my prototype in the car running for some time first, and I also want to find someone to run a second prototype 3.2lt version in a drag car for me as well. Hopefully this can happen early next year. Thanks for the interest.

Im after 2 of these RB26DETT factory standard intake pipes. This is the rear turbo inlet pipe. Also, after 2 factory standard twin turbo head shields. Please pm me a price or call me on 0434147478 Cheers, Ian

Droooooolllll! Also, good to know that they gave the wheels a soul. I hate those soul-less japanese products!

I think you've just lost faith in the car Richard. That happens when your pride and joy has been off the road for too long. Someone needs to lend you the keys to a nicely balanced R32 and let you go for a strap so you can get some motivation going again. Dont know about pissed people working on it though... Ive seen results from that end badly.

That's the truth alright. If you were to read everything there was to read regarding 30/26 builds on SAU you still wouldn't be armed with the necessary experience or skills to build one. Ive lost track of how many times I've heard stories about young lads attempting to build up their cars to do impossible things, only to abandon their projects a year or 2 later. Then unable to put their car back together again, they strip their car and sell it as parts so they can pay of their bank loan and credit cards. The only bright side to this situation where people bite off more than they can chew (car project wise), is that it keeps the forsale thread on SAU filled with new and used parts that we can pickup cheap.

V4/V400 makes no diference if you re-wire your batch injection from (1-6,2-5,3-4) to semi sequential 1-5, skip, 3-6, skip, 2-5. The trick is finding someone that understands the injection changes to make it work, and knows how to alter the injector sequencing/pulse skip settings. But, if nistune is the easier solution you should go with it. If you want to know more about this injection setup thougn ive posted more detailed information about it in the past on SAU. A search should find it pretty easily.

I like your taste in components. Nismo or Nissan all the way.! Interesting choice with the paint too. Kind of looks like fingerprints, are they Ben's?

Great pictures Matt. That front pipe is a piece of artwork.

Sorry no idea about the AFM, but the v4 wolf can control the VCT... like all things it requires a little tweeking it get it right but it can do it. You can run VCT as an on/off under certain conditions straight off an AUX, or if you want to get tricky you can run it off the boost control output. With tweaking of the pulse width frequencies you can control the cam position at any RPM.

Technically one setup will not be worse for economy or power than the other. The batch firing is the recomended standard operation that has idle stability issues when large injectors are used. Semi-sequential (as I call it) where 1,5 are fired, then skip, then 3,6 are fired, then skip, then 2,4 is basicly the same as fully sequential. Technically at idle speeds the trailing cylinders (4,5,6) are going to have a slightly warmer fuel charge but that makes little to no diference at all. Sequential.... ideal of course. AND if you have a cool ecu like a V500 wolf you can tune individual cylinders and trim each cylinder for optimal burn at idle using a laser heat gun aimed at each exhaust runner.

Im guessing its just slipped on to allow the engine to be easily turned a little to line up the the timing belt reference marks. Considering Matts budget on this beast, it will be running an ATI or something of equalivent quality.

Do the N1 blocks come in that nice graphite looking colour? Pretty! So where's today's instalment Matt?

Thanks Richard. In hind sight Im thinking I should have made a build thread for this engine, but I can always do that later I suppose. I've got timing belt on it now, all sorted. Its a little perverse what engine it came from though.... its an Opal (holden) Barina timing belt.

Your lumpy idle is due to the idle injector pulse width being too short for the injector to open and close properly. There is an easy way around this though. You will currently have your injectors wired as 1+6, 5+3, 2+5, and all injectors are fired once per engine rotation as is the case with batch fire injection. As a result your idle MS pulse width is small. An RB's firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4. So to convert your injection to semi sequential you need to rewire your injectors so that injectors 1+5 are on the first channel, 3,6 on the 2nd channel and 2+4 on the third channel. The injectors must be wired in series so that the impedance doesnt overload the injector driver in the ECU, so power one side of the first injector, in series through the 2nd injector and back to the ecu. Then you change the injector pulse skip setting for banks 1-3 from a skip of 2 to a skip of 5. Then you need to double all the values in your fuel map. This change will then have the engine idling as smooth as a stock engine because your injectors are not miss-firing. There is no reason a properly tuned wolf v4 will not run and drive as well as a stock ecu provided the time and effort has been put in to making that drivability perfect. The disadvantage of them comapred to a power FC is that it takes considerably longer to get drivability right. This is to be expected though IMO as the FC comes shipped with all the base maps that are already pretty good, and the wolf is 100% tunable and comes with nothing. Good luck Ian

Ah... i suspected as much. That explains your comment about how scary fast it is a lot better. If it were that way before you undertook these changes you'd probably never drive the car after the build was finished. Glad you kept the original engine intact as well.

Not at all. The smartest thing you can do is put your trust in a builder with the skills of Ben at Racepace. Im sure he has his reasons for suggesting the step 2 kit. Perhaps for a simple a reason as planning for the future, or maybe the valve pockets accomodate more valve lift with the v-cam setup. How long till the block machining and assembly starts? Are you intending to use your factory engine block or are you building up the RB28 in another N1 block? Thanks for sharing, Ian

More important than bearing brand/type is the assembly clearances....so If everything is top-top with the assembly, bearing cleance checked properly, rods and crank checked for roundness etc I doubt you would manage to crush a standard rod bearing with just 100hp per bearing. BUT how this would survive long term though is entirely another matter. Nothing lasts for ever. Ive yet to read a thread where someone says their 600hp engine has just clicked over 100,000k's. If you really want to be sure, it needs to be pulled apart and checked. This is the only option unless your builder can tell you exactly what the assembly specs of the engine are. I just noticed that you didnt mention upgraded rods or rod bolts too. So there is your next weak link. Then there is the oil pump and oil pump drive (R32 or Jun/R33/R34 type).... which head gasket was chosen....the list goes on. There are lots of other weak links before i'd be woried about the bearings.

Unless you can ask the builder whats in there, its anyones guess. Though if you can ask the builder, ask him what the clearances are that it was assembled with as well. Im no expert on the subject but I'd have thought that standard bearings would handle a hell of a lot of power, and failures would occur primarly because of the rod journel going out of round due to either rod distortion or bolt stretch at high rpm. This then would interrupt the thin film that allows the bearing to float on the rod journel. Instantly creating a hot spot resulting in the bearing to grab and then spin. I wouldnt be counting oil surge as a cause bearing failure, though some bearings will be more tolerant of this than others. Makes me wonder how many failures have actually occurred solely through too much power being extracted from the engine. An engne assembled from stronger components will tolerate more tuning errors than one built from lesser components. Though the more power you extract the smaller the margin for error, and the more damaging the potential disaster is when it all goes wrong.

Nice rod design. I like the extra material where the mating surfaces are between the rod and bearing cap. Makes for less material distortion to push the bearings out of round when the bolts are torqued to spec. Are you aiming for over 500kw? Just wondering why you went for the step 2 pistons with the nickel coating. Having a ceramic coating instead would have been fine for less power and have been more streetable due to less heat transfer to the oil.

Big little engine project is very close to completion now. Had a high-octane sump extension welded onto a factory sump last week so ive installed that today and finished cleaning up and installing a little more plumbing. The timing belt issue has been a bit more of a challange that I had thought it would be. The first belt ive sourced is 1 tooth too long, so im having to order a belt from the UK that normally goes on a vahuxall astra to get the right tooth count. GTRS's should arrive next week so when the belt arrives it will be ready to install. Cant wait!